2011 Nissan 370Z 2 DR RWD

TL* THE CONSUMER OWNS A 2011 NISSAN 370Z. THE CONSUMER STATED THAT WHILE ATTEMPTING THE START THE VEHICLE, THE ENGINE WOULD NOT TURN ON. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE LOCAL DEALER COGGINS NISSAN(10600 ATLANTIC BLVD, JACKSONVILLE FL) WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE STEERING LOCK WAS FAULTY AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE STEERING LOCK WAS REPLACED AND THE FAILURE WAS REMEDIED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE BUT NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,700. *DT *AS

FOR YEARS, THERE HAVE BEEN WIDESPREAD DEFECTS IN THE ELECTRONIC STEERING COLUMN LOCK (ESCL) THAT DISABLED THE PUSH-BUTTON IGNITION IN A WIDE RANGE OF NISSAN AND INFINITI VEHICLES. THE ESCL'S PRIMARY JOB IS TO KEEP THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UNTIL YOU BRING YOUR KEY FOB IN RANGE OF THE VEHICLE. IT'S MEANT TO PREVENT THEFT. HOWEVER, WHEN THE ESCL MALFUNCTIONS (EVEN WITH THE FOB PRESENT AND WORKING) THE ESCL WON'T DETECT IT AND, THEREFORE, WON'T RELEASE THE WHEEL. WHEN YOU PRESS THE START/STOP BUTTON TO START THE CAR, NOTHING HAPPENS. HOWEVER, THE "INTELLIGENT KEY WARNING LIGHT" SYMBOL COMES ON, INDICATING YOU HAVE A PROBLEM. NISSAN HAS BEEN AWARE OF THIS ISSUE FO YEARS AND HAS ISSUED A VOLUNTARY SERVICE CAMPAIGN FOR VARIOUS MODELS. HOWEVER, THEY HAVE NOT DONE SO FOR THE 370Z, EVEN THOUGH THIS MODEL IS EXPERIENCING THE EXACT PROBLEM AS THE MODELS INCLUDED IN THE VOLUNTARY SERVICE CAMPAIGN. THIS MALFUNCTION HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH GENERAL "WEAR & TEAR". THIS MALFUNCTION IS DUE TO A DEFECTIVE PART AND POOR ENGINEERING. I AM ASKING NHTSA TO ENCOURAGE NISSAN TO CONDUCT A VOLUNTARY OR MANDATORY RECALL TO ADDRESS AND CORRECT THIS ISSUE AT NO COST TO VEHICLE OWNERS.

WHEN MY CAR HAD 22,000 MILES IT WOULDN'T START BECAUSE MY STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UP. I WAS HOME WHEN THIS HAPPENED. HAD TO TOW IT TO NISSAN DEALERSHIP. IT JUST HAPPENED TO ME AGAIN AT 55,000 MILES. I WAS ABOUT TO LEAVE WORK. HAD TO TOW IT BACK AGAIN. NOT FAIR TO PAY 1,200!!

CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER WENT OUT AT AROUND 40K MILES. AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH, THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH MANY OTHER 370 Z'S. I AM NOW WORRIED THAT I WILL NEED A THIRD CSC.

THE CAR WOULD NOT START. I WAS STRANDED AND HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP. THEY HAD TO REPLACE THE STEERING LOCK UNIT STATING THAT IT WAS "BAD". THE SAME THING IS NOTED ON A RECALL ISSUED FOR 2009 AND 2010 NISSAN 370 Z, BUT NO RECALL FOR THE 2011 EVEN THOUGH T IS THE SAME PART.

STEERING WHEEL LOCK SENSOR BROKE, FAILED IN LOCK POSITION, HAPPENS TO MOST EVERY NISSAN FOB KEY SYSTEM AT 1 TIME OR ANOTHER. THE DEALER CHARGED ME $1100.00 TO FIX AND IT TOOK THEM LESS THAN 2 HOURS. THIS IS A SCAM BY NISSAN AND THE INTERNET IS FULL OF PEOPLE COMPALINING ABOUT THIS ISSUE. IT LEFT ME STRANDED AND I HAD TO BE TOWED. PLEASE MAKE NISSAN START A RECALL FOR THIS PROBLEM. WHEN THE STEERING LOCK FAILS IT WILL NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START.

PARKED CAR IN MORNING. CAR WOULD NOT START AT NIGHT. YELLOW INDICATOR ON DASH. PROBLEM WAS KNOWN ISSUE WITH THE STEERING LOCK ANTI-THEFT DEVICE. PRIOR MODEL YEARS RECALLED, ONLY 2011 WAS NOT COVERED UNDER RECALL. CAR HAD TO BE TOWED. OVER $1200 REPAIR AT DEALERSHIP. PART WAS $775.

I WAS LEFT STRANDED IN A PARKING LOT AFTER MY SECURITY STEERING LOCK MECHANISM LOCKED THE CAR AND WOULD NOT ALLOW IT TO TURN ON OR EVEN TO ACC MODE. SINCE THE CAR LOCKED UP, I HAVE TWO LIGHTS ON MY DASH THAT WILL NOT TURN OFF. I WAS STRANDED FOR HOURS AND COULD NOT GET AN AVAILABLE TOW TRUCK TO PICK MY CAR UP. AFTER SEVERAL HOURS, I WAS ABLE TO GET A FAMILY MEMBER TO DRIVE A LONG WAYS TO COME GET ME. MY CAR IS STILL IN THE PARKING LOT AND WAITING TO GET A TOW TRUCK TO PICK IT UP! ONLY ISSUE WITH THE TOW, MY CAR WON'T EVEN ALLOW THE SHIFTER TO MOVE INTO NEUTRAL! THE TOW COMPANY SAID THEY CAN'T PROMISE THE CAR CAN EVEN BE TOWED IF THEY CAN'T SAFELY STEER IT ONTO THE FLAT BAD TRUCK!

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

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 NISSAN 370Z. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS UNABLE TO START DUE TO THE STEERING WHEEL BEING LOCKED.THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH A LOCK STEERING MALFUNCTION. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 45,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. UPDATED 02/16/17*LJ

CAR WOULD NOT START. FAULTY STEERING LOCK ASSEMBLY. HAD TO BE TOWED.

THE CLUTCH STICKS TO THE FLOOR MAKING IT HARD TO SHIFT. YOU HAVE TO PULL IT UP WITH YOUR FOOT. SOME SAY THESE CARS WERE MANUFACTURED WITH A POOR DESIGNED SLAVE CYLINDER. THE CLUTCH STICKS WHERE EVER YOU ARE DRIVING SOMETIMES IT WILL START BACK TO WORKING PROPERLY FOR A WHILE. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO A NISSAN DEALER TWICE, IT WILL OPERATE PROPERLY FOR A FEW WEEKS THEN START TO STICKING TO THE FLOOR AGAIN. THE DATE BELOW REFLECT THE MOST RECENT TIME OR LAST TIME FOR THE CLUTCH FAILURE. 11/11/16

CLUTCH PRESSURE (CSC) FAILURE THIS HAS ALREADY FAILED ONCE AND NEEDS TO BE RECALLED AND UPGRADED SO THE PROBLEM DOESN'T HAPPEN EVERY 25,000 MILES. NOW THAT MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY THEY WILL NOT REPLACE ANYMORE.

HAD TO GO GET EMERGENCY COUGH MEDICATION FOR SPOUSE AT 2:30AM. AFTER LEAVING WALGREEN, WAS UNABLE TO START MY CAR. THE KEY FOB HAS ENOUGH BATTERY POWER BUT THE ENGINE IGNITION STAYED ON "LOCK" AND COULD NOT DETECT KEY FOB. AFTER TRYING TO AN HOUR TO "GOOGLE" AND "YOUTUBE" AND TRIED EVERYTHING I COULD FIND TO FIX THE ISSUE BUT WITH NO LUCK. HAD TO CONTACT SPOUSE TO PICK ME UP AT 3:00AM. TOWED TO A MECHANIC BECAUSE AFTER CONTACTING 3 DIFFERENT NISSAN DEALERS AND CALLING THE NISSAN CONSUMER AFFAIRS, LEARNED THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL ON THIS CASE. HOWEVER, BEEN READING PLENTY OF FORUM ON THE SAME THING FOR OTHER NISSAN 370ZS ON THIS VERY SAME INCIDENT. THE MECHANIC DIAGNOSED THE STEERING MODULE WAS MALFUNCTIONING AND REPLACED THE UNIT AFTER $1,431.46. + $28 TOWING FEE. I WAS FORTUNATE THAT I WAS IN A SAFE NEIGHBORHOOD ALTHOUGH IT WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT. BUT I FEEL THAT THIS STEERING LOCK MALFUNCTION IS TOO COMMON TO NISSAN DEALERS AND THEIR CONSUMER AFFAIRS TO NOT LOOK IN TO. MILEAGE ON VEHICLE IS 33,387.

STEERING LOCK CONTROL MODULE - VEHICLE STARTED IN THE MORNING AND WAS FINE DRIVING TO WORK, AFTER I GOT OFF MY VEHICLE WAS UNABLE TO START AND DID NOT RECOGNIZE MY KEY. TOWED IT TO NISSAN AND WAS INFORMED MY STEERING LOCK CONTROL MODULE FAILED. THERE IS A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE BUT MY VEHICLE DOES NOT FALL UNDER IT. NISSAN NEEDS TO HAVE SOME TYPE OF EXTENSION FOR THIS ISSUE. THIS IS A SAFETY CONCERN. MILEAGE IS AT 33,548.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 NISSAN 370Z. WHILE DRIVING 5 MPH TURNING INTO A PARKING LOT, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE POWER STEERING FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,906.

NISSAN HAS A WELL DOCUMENTED PROBLEM WITH THE ELECTRONIC STEERING LOCK UNIT (ESLU) ON SEVERAL MODELS, BUT SPECIFICALLY THE 2009 - 2011 370Z MODELS. THE ESLU IS TOUTED BY NISSAN AS A SECURITY FEATURE;HOWEVER, WHEN IT FAILS, YOU CANNOT START THE CAR. THAT MAKES THIS A SAFETY ISSUE. I PARKED MY CAR OVER THE WEEKEND AND THEN IT WOULD NOT START. THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY. NISSAN CLAIMS THE LATEST REVISION OF THE PART, 48700-JF00D, FIXES THE FAILURE, BUT THAT EXACT PART FAILED ON MY 2011 NISSAN 370Z. I HAD TO PAY OUT OF POCKET (MY YEAR MODEL AND VIN WERE NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL) TO FIX THE PROBLEM.

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY IN 6TH GEAR FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES TO AN HOUR, THE CLUTCH PEDAL BEGINS FEELING VERY SOFT AND BEGINS STICKING TO THE FLOOR TO THE POINT WHERE IT IS NECESSARY TO PULL IT BACK UP WITH MY FOOT. ON TEXAS HIGHWAYS, THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS IF I AM UNABLE TO ENGAGE A GEAR WHILE DRIVING IN HEAVY TRAFFIC, ESPECIALLY SINCE A LOT OF HIGHWAYS ARE UNDER CONSTRUCTION WITH NO SHOULDER TO SAFELY PULL OVER TO. THE PART AT FAULT IS A POORLY CONSTRUCTED CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER. THIS IS A PIECE OF PLASTIC THAT IS EXTREMELY PRONE TO FAILURE. IT SHOULD HAVE NEVER BEEN CONSTRUCTED FROM PLASTIC. NISSAN ALSO REFUSES TO OBEY THEIR 5 YEAR, 60,000 MILE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY TO FIX THIS ISSUE. (THE ONLY CLUTCH PART LISTED AS "NOT COVERED" IS THE WEARABLE CLUTCH DISC ITSELF). THEY ALSO REFUSE TO ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE. I'M ATTACHING A SCREENSHOT OF OVER 100 370Z FORUM MEMBERS WHO HAVE REPORTED THIS ISSUE AS WELL. THIS IS CLEARLY A PROBLEM THAT NEEDS ADDRESSED, BUT NISSAN REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE THE SAFETY OF THEIR LOYAL CUSTOMERS.

TAKATA RECALL. I FIRST OCCURRED A PROBLEM WITH THE Z ON MY WEDDING DAY. MY CLUTCH DROPPED TO THE FLOOR AND WE COULDN'T GET THE CAR IN GEAR. WE WERE PUT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MOUNTAINS WITH NO WAY TO CALL A TOW TRUCK SO WE DID OUR BEST TO MAKE IT TO THE CLOSEST NISSAN DEALER. ON THE WAY WE CAME TO A FOUR WAY RED LIGHT AND COULDN'T SHIFT TO A LOW ENOUGH GEAR TO GET TO CAR TO SLOW DOWN, A SEMI WAS TRAVELING ABOUT 60 MPH RIGHT AT US, WE SWERVED INTO THE EMERGENCY ON AND THE TRUCK TO BARELY MISSED US. AFTER THAT MY HUSBAND FOUND OUT FROM A MECHANIC THAT HE SHOULD BLEED THE CLUTCH SO HE DID AND THE CLUTCH WAS NORMAL AGAIN. BESIDES THAT THE CAR HAS HAD ONLY ONE OTHER OCCURRENCE WITH THE CLUTCH. I AM PETRIFIED TO DRIVE MY CAR AFTER THAT SITUATION BUT I HAVE NO CHOICE CONSIDERING I SPEND MOST OF MY PAYCHECK JUST TO PAY FOR THE ONE THING THAT WILL PROBABLY SEND ME TO MY GRAVE. THIS IS A VERY SERIOUS PROBLEM AND SHOULD BE FIXED! NOW TO MENTION THIS MORNING... I WOKE UP TO GO TO WORK AND WENT TO START MY CAR WHEN MY CAR WOULDN'T START DUE TO A STEERING LOCK MALFUNCTION AND WILL PROBABLY END UP HAVING TO TAKE IT TO A DEALERSHIP IF MY RESEARCH DOESN'T WORK OUT AS PLANNED. THE BRAKE LIGHT COMES ON WHEN I PUSH THE CLUTCH... THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT COMES ON AND STAYS ON FOR LONG PERIODS. THIS CAR IS GOING TO HURT SOMEONE BAD! WORRIED ABOUT THE PEOPLE DRINKING AND DRIVING? YOU SHOULD BE WORRIED ABOUT THE PEOPLE DRIVING A NISSAN 370Z !!!! SO FRUSTRATED!

KEY LIGHT WENT ON AT 34000 MILES AND CAR WILL NOT DO ANYTHING. NO RADIO NO WINDOW CONTROL DEAD IN PARK POSITION HAD TO HAVE TOWED TO DEALER.IN PARKED CONDITION

WHILE DRIVING HOME FROM TEXAS MY CLUTCH STARTED TO WEAKEN AND EVENTUALLY STUCK TO THE FLOOR WHILE I WAS TRAVELING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH. UNDERSTANDING THAT MY CAR HAD A PROBLEM THAT WAS LIKELY TO LEAVE ME STRANDED, I CONTINUED TO TRAVEL AT 70 TO 75 MPH FROM JACKSON, MISSISSIPPI TO BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA WITHOUT STOPPING. WHEN I ARRIVED AT THE END OF THE OFF RAMP, I COULD NOT GET THE CAR INTO 1ST GEAR SO I COULD CONTINUE ON HOME. AFTER BEING STRANDED FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES, I EVENTUALLY GOT THE CAR INTO FIRST GEAR. I HAD TO DRIVE FROM THE EXIT TO MY HOME IN FIRST GEAR. WHEN I GOT TO MY HOUSE I HAD TO USE THE STARTER TO GET MY CAR INTO THE GARAGE. THE TRIP FROM JACKSON TO BIRMINGHAM WAS EXCEPTIONALLY DANGEROUS AND THERE WAS MANY OPPORTUNITIES FOR A TRAGEDY FOR EXAMPLE: (1) NOT BEING ABLE TO REACT PROPERLY IN TRAFFIC, (2) NOT BEING ABLE TO REACT PROPERLY TO CONSTRUCTION ZONES, (3) NOT BEING ABLE TO REACT PROPERLY TO CITY SPEED ZONES, ET CETERA. GIVEN THAT THIS ISSUE CAME ON QUICKLY, A DANGEROUS SITUATION PRESENTED ITSELF IN HEAVY FAST MOVING TRAFFIC WHEN I COULD NOT PROPERLY CHANGE GEARS WHEN DOWN-SHIFTING. DUE TO MY DELAYED RESPONSE TRYING TO GET MY CAR INTO GEAR, I WAS ALMOST HIT FROM BEHIND WHICH CAUSED OTHER NEARBY CARS TO HAVE TO REACT TO THE SITUATION AS WELL. FORTUNATELY EVERYONE AROUND ME AT THE TIME OF FINAL FAILURE WAS PAYING ATTENTION. TAKING A LOOK AT THE HISTORY OF THIS ISSUE, IT SEEMS TO HAVE CARRIED FROM THE 350Z TO THE 370Z WHICH STARTS IN 2002 AND CONTINUES YEAR TO DATE. BASED ON RESEARCH IN FORUMS, THIS FAILURE TAKES PLACE AT AN AVERAGE OF 25,000 MILES AND CONTINUES TO REOCCUR AFTER REPLACEMENT AT THE SAME INTERVAL. IT IS A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE THIS FAILURE CAUSES A DEATH, BUT THEN AGAIN, IF SOMEONE DIES THEY WILL HARDLY BE ABLE TO REPORT THE PROBLEM. PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS ISSUE AND CONSIDER BOTH THE 350Z AND THE 370Z--WHICH HAS INHERITED THE ISSUE.

WHEN I ENTERED MY CAR TO LEAVE IN THE MORNING MY CLUTCH PEDAL HAD NEXT TO NO PRESSURE WHEN DEPRESSED. THE CLUTCH WOULD ONLY DISENGAGE WITH APPROXIMATELY HALF AN INCH BEFORE REACHING THE FLOOR. I IMMEDIATELY SHUT MY CAR OFF AND CALLED THE NISSAN SERVICE CENTER. I WAS ADVISED TO BRING MY CAR IN. AFTER WAITING FOR TRAFFIC TO SUBSIDE I NERVOUSLY DROVE MY CAR TO THE SERVICE CENTER WITHOUT INCIDENT. WHILE DRIVING, I NOTED THAT THE PRESSURE IN MY CLUTCH PEDAL WAS GETTING WORSE. HAD THIS STARTED WHILE DRIVING I COULD HAVE BEEN SEVERELY INJURED, OR WORSE. THE NISSAN SERVICE CENTER DETERMINED THAT THE FAULTY PART WAS THE CLUTCH CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER. THIS PART IS SOMEHOW NOT COVERED IN MY VEHICLE'S POWER TRAIN WARRANTY, EVEN THROUGH IT IS AN INTERNAL PART OF THE TRANSMISSION. I AM FORTUNATE THAT THIS DID NOT HAPPEN WHILE I WAS DRIVING MY CAR, AS THINGS COULD HAVE BEEN MUCH WORSE. NISSAN HAS BEEN RELUCTANT TO EVEN ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THIS HAS BEEN AN ISSUE WITH THIS VEHICLE, EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS FAILURE, WHICH IS EASILY DISCOVERED WHEN DOING INVESTIGATION ONLINE.

I WENT TO START MY CAR AND THE CLUTCH PEDAL WAS LOW. ONCE I WENT AROUND THE CORNER FROM MY HOUSE, THE PEDAL ALMOST FELL TO THE BOTTOM. SINCE I COULD NOT PUT IT IN THE NEXT GEAR, I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL AND PUSHED IT BACK INTO MY GARAGE. MY MECHANIC SAID IT WAS THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER. HE ALSO SAID THERE WAS A LOT OF BREAK FLUID IN THE TRANSMISSION COMING FROM THE CSC. I WENT ON 370Z PAGES AND THIS COMPLAINT IS ALL OVER THE PLACE. THERE ARE NUMEROUS FORUMS TO THIS ISSUE. LUCKILY I WAS NOT DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY OR I COULD HAVE CAUSED A MAJOR ACCIDENT. IF THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR A LONG TIME TO HUNDREDS IF NOT THOUSANDS OF CARS FOR THIS MAKE AND MODEL, WHY HAS THIS NOT BEEN FIXED? BILL WAS AROUND $1000.00. HAVEN'T HAD ANY ISSUES SINCE REPLACING THE CSC BUT ONLY HAVE PUT ABOUT 4 THOUSAND MILES ON IT SINCE.

I WENT OUT TO START MY CAR FOR A DRIVE ON 06/21/15. AS I WAS REACHING FOR THE CLUTCH PEDAL WITH MY FOOT TO START THE ENGINE, I FOUND THE CLUTCH PEDAL HAD ALREADY SUNK HALF WAY TO THE FLOORBOARD BEFORE MY FOOT CAME IN CONTACT WITH IT. I HAD TO REACH IN FURTHER ALMOST COMPLETELY EXTENDING MY LEG IN ORDER TO MAKE CONTACT WITH THE PEDAL. UPON CHECKING THE CLUTCH FLUID I WAS SURPRISED TO FIND SOME OF MY FLUID LEVEL WAS HALF EMPTY HAD AND LOOKED VERY DARK. THERE WAS BLACK DEBRIS SITTING UNDER THE FLUID RESERVOIR. MY FLUID LEVEL WAS AT THE MAX WHEN I LAST CHECKED IT TWO WEEKS PRIOR, SO BETWEEN THAT TIME SOME FLUID HAD LEAKED OUT. I FILLED UP WITH SOME BRAKE FLUID AND PUMPED THE PEDAL SEVERAL TIMES, WHICH HELPED REGAINS SOME PRESSURE IN MY CLUTCH PEDAL BUT NOT COMPLETELY, THERE IS STILL SOME SLACK IN THE PEDAL TRAVEL. I IMMEDIATELY WENT ONLINE TO RESEARCH THE PROBLEM. I RAN ACROSS COUNTLESS COMPLAINTS FROM OTHER Z OWNERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUES WITH THEIR FACTORY CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER (CSC) & MASTER SLAVE CYLINDER. MANY REPORTED THEIR CLUTCH PEDAL "DIVING" AND WOULD NOT RETURN DURING DRIVING. UNLIKE ME, MOST OF THEM WERE LEFT STRANDED ON THE SIDE OF THE ROADS DUE TO NOT BEING ABLE TO OPERATE THE CLUTCH AFTER THE PEDAL LOSS PRESSURE AND DIVES TO THE FLOOR. FURTHERMORE, PEOPLE HAVE REPORTED THEIR FACTORY CSC FAILURES SINCE THE NISSAN 350Z WERE STILL IN PRODUCTION (2002-2009). NISSAN NORTH AMERICA IS FULLY AWARE OF THIS DEFECTS IN THEIR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY. IN 2008, NISSAN ISSUED A RECALL TO 350Z OWNERS TO REPLACE THEIR DEFECTIVE CSC. I AM APPALLED THAT THEY (NISSAN) CONTINUED TO RELY ON THE SAME DEFECTIVE PARTS ON THEIR NISSAN 370Z. CURRENTLY, NISSAN HAS NOT ADDRESS THIS PROBLEM ON THEIR 370Z MODEL, NOR ARE THEY HONORING ANY WARRANTY CLAIMS REGARDING THIS ISSUE. THIS IS A REAL CONCERN AS IT POSSES A SERIOUS SAFETY THREATS TO ALL Z'S EQUIPPED WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION. UPDATED 09/01/2015*LJ

I PURCHASED THE 2011 NISSAN 370Z NISMO WITH 30,000 MILES FROM A NISSAN DEALERSHIP AND AFTER 2500 MILES OF DRIVING I HAD THIS ISSUE WITH THE CLUTCH. I WAS DRIVING AND THE CLUTCH PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR AND WOULD NOT COME BACK UP. AFTER PULLING OVER I CHECKED AND SAW THAT THE CLUTCH FLUID RESERVOIR WAS COMPLETELY EMPTY. I KNOW THE FLUID WAS FULL AND CLEAN WHEN I GOT THE CAR BECAUSE WE LOOKED AT ALL OF THE FLUIDS AT THE TIME OF PURCHASE. I RAN TO A GAS STATION TO GET SOME BRAKE FLUID TO FILL IT UP AND DROVE HOME. I DID NOT TOUCH THE CAR UNTIL I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE IT TO THE DEALERSHIP THAT WEEKEND. THE DEALERSHIP TECHS WERE UNABLE TO FIND ANY KIND OF LEAK IN THE CLUTCH LINE, SLAVE CYLINDER, OR MASTER CYLINDER AND RECOMMENDED I HAVE THEM FLUSH THE FLUID WITH NEW "GTR BRAKE FLUID". AS OF RIGHT NOW THAT HAS BEEN DONE (NOT COVERED BY MY DRIVE TRAIN WARRANTY), BUT I'M NOT SURE HOW NEW FLUID WILL STOP A LEAK. I DON'T DRIVE THE CAR AS MUCH AND HAVE BEEN KEEPING A CLOSE EYE ON THE FLUIDS.

FIRST INCIDENT HAPPENED AT AROUND 37,000 MILES, THE CAR WOULD NOT START AND THE PUSH BUTTON LIGHTS UP THE LOCK LIGHT BUT SECONDS LATER STARTED WORKING. ON JUNE 3RD 2015, AFTER DRIVING TO MY JOB TO PICK UP TOOLS TO HEAD TO THE AIRPORT I PARK THE CAR, CAME BACK TO A CAR THAT WOULD NOT START, THE CAR RECOGNIZES THE KEY BUT LOCKS ME OUT FROM STARTING THE CAR. THE CAR HAD RANDOM WON'T START, I BROUGHT THIS UP TO THE NISSAN DEALERS ABOUT ONGOING ISSUES WITH OTHER OWNERS OF THE SAME CAR. NOW MY CAR DOES NOT START AND I AM HEARING THAT THIS IS A GOING ISSUE WITH THE STEERING WHEEL LOCK/INTELLIGENT KEY. I AM UNABLE TO MOVE THE CAR AND WILL HAVE TO TOW IT TO THE DEALER THAT DENIED ISSUES WITH THE INELLIGENT KEY SYSTEM LOCKING OWNERS FROM STARTING THEIR CARS. I WANT TO BRING THIS UP SO THAT WAY WE SPEAK OUT SINCE THERE ARE SO MANY PEOPLE HAVING ISSUES BUT NOT ENOUGH POST IT SO THAT A RECALL CAN BE MADE FOR NISSAN TO FIX THIS FOR OWNERS AFFECTED.

YESTERDAY AFTERNOON, AFTER LEAVING WORK TO MY CAR WITHIN THE PARKING LOT, MY VEHICLE DID NOT START. I ASSUMED IT WAS DUE TO A LOW BATTERY WITHIN THE INTELLIGENT KEY FOR THE PUSH TO START IGNITION, SO I REPLACED THE BATTERY AT A LOCAL WAL-MART. UPON RETURNING TO THE CAR, I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. THE KEY WAS ABLE TO LOCK AND UNLOCK THE DOORS TO THE CAR, HOWEVER WHEN I PUSHED IN THE CLUTCH AND BRAKE PER USUAL FOLLOWED BY THE START BUTTON, NOTHING TOOK PLACE. THE INDICATOR REMAINED ON THE 'LOCK' POSITION AND FAILED TO MOVE OVER TO THE 'ON' POSITION TO START THE CAR. NO SOUNDS TOOK PLACE AT ALL AS IF IT WAS EVEN TRYING TO START. AS A RESULT, I LEFT THE CAR OVERNIGHT AND HAD IT TOWED TO THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP. THEY INFORMED ME A FEW HOURS LATER THAT MY STEERING LOCK UNIT HAD 'FAILED'. I MENTIONED THAT I HAD SEEN THIS PROBLEM REPORTED ON NUMEROUS CAR BLOGS (NHTSA #10051829), HOWEVER THEY MENTIONED SINCE I WAS BEYOND MY EXTENDED WARRANTY, THAT I WOULD HAVE TO PAY ROUGHLY $1,250.00 FOR THE PART AND LABOR. IT IS CURRENTLY BEING SERVICED, HOWEVER I WANTED THIS INCIDENT LOGGED AS I HAVE SEEN A NUMBER OF 370Z OWNERS RECOMMEND THIS ROUTE. EXTREMELY DISAPPOINTED WITH NISSAN'S COVERAGE AND HANDLING OF THIS SITUATION. *TR

THE NISSAN STEERING LOCK UNIT (SLU) FAILED. ONCE THE UNIT FAILS, IT WILL NOT RECOGNIZE THE KEY AND THE CAR CANNOT BE STARTED. THIS UNIT (48700JFOOD) WAS A SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEMS OF FAILURE IN THE 2009 AND 2010 370Z WHICH HAD THEIR WARRANTY EXTENDED (PART NUMBER 48700JFOOA; 48700JFOOB; 48700JFOOC). NISSAN WOULD NOT WARRANTY THIS UNIT FOR ME. *TR

CSC FAILED AT 47000MILES. MANY OTHERS HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE. *TR

MY CAR WOULDN'T START. THERE IS A SOLID LIGHT WITH KEY ON DASHBOARD WOULD REMAIN LIT. I TRIED ALL METHODS TO POWER ON THE CAR, BUT FAILED. HAD TO GET THE CAR TOWED TO THE NISSAN DEALERSHIP WHERE I WAS TOLD THAT THE CAR REQUIRES A "STEERING LOCK ACTUATOR" REPLACEMENT AND COST RUNS TO APPROXIMATELY $1150. MY CAR IS OUTSIDE OF THE 3 YEAR WARRANTY PERIOD AND HENCE IT CANNOT BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. IT SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN ISSUE UPON LOOKING UP ON THE INTERNET. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON THIS VEHICLE FOR THIS PART AS IT IS MALFUNCTIONING MORE THAN USUAL. *TR

KEY INDICATOR LIGHT CAME ON ABOUT A WEEK PRIOR TO THE INCIDENT. MADE 2 PHONE CALLS TO LOCAL NISSAN DEALERSHIPS (ONE IN PORTLAND OR AND ONE IN VANCOUVER, WA) BOTH DEALERSHIPS CLAIMED THEY HAD NO IDEA WHAT WAS GOING ON BUT I SHOULD BRING IT IN FOR A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WHICH RAN AROUND $118 JUST TO LOOK AT. SINCE NOTHING APPEARED WRONG WITH MY CAR I WAITED BECAUSE THE "KEY" LIGHT WOULD GO OFF. IT CAME BACK ON THE DAY I HAD THE INCIDENT AND LEFT ME STRANDED ON MY LUNCH HOUR WITH NO POWER TO START MY CAR. I AGAIN CALLED NISSAN AND THEY WERE NOT SURE WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS. I HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED TO THE NEAREST NISSAN DEALERSHIP WHICH RAN A DIAGNOSTIC TEST. I THEN RECEIVED A PHONE CALL THAT AFTERNOON TO SAY IT WAS MY STEERING LOCK ASSEMBLY AND THE PART WAS EXPENSIVE TO REPLACE. I WAS TOLD THE LABOR WOULD NOT BE MUCH SINCE IT WAS AN EASY FIX. SO THIS PROBLEM TURNED OUT TO THE A $1,200 FIX. I DECIDED TO GO ONLINE TO SEE IF I CAN FIND THIS PART ANY CHEAPER. I THEN RAN ACROSS MANY WEBSITES AND BLOGS WITH NISSAN OWNERS HAVING THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM WITH CAR FROM 2009 TO 2011. APPARENTLY THIS IS NOT SOMETHING NISSAN WAS UNAWARE OF. THE SERVICE REP AT THE DEALERSHIP SAID SHE HAS SEEN OTHER 370Z'S WITH THIS SAME PROBLEM AND JUST HAD ONE TOWED TO THE SERVICE CENTER 2 WEEKS AGO. I FIND IT HARD TO BELIEVE THAT WITH THIS MAY CASES BEING REPORTED AND BLOGGED ABOUT ONLINE WHY NISSAN IS NOT DOING SOMETHING ABOUT THIS. THIS CAN BE A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION IF LEFT STRANDED IN A CAR THAT WILL NOT START. WHEN YOU TRY TO BE PROACTIVE NISSAN SERVICE CENTERS CLAIM THEY ARE UNAWARE OF THE ISSUE. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE AND QUICKLY. THIS WILL BE THE LAST NISSAN EVER PURCHASED IF NOT RESOLVED AND REIMBURSED FOR EXPENSE. *TR

DRIVING VEHICLE IN LIGHT TRAFFIC AND CLUTCH PEDAL BEGINS SHOWING LITTLE TO NO RESISTANCE, EASILY SINKS TO THE FLOOR. SOON THEREAFTER CLUTCH PEDAL HAS TO BE PRESSED NEARLY TO THE FLOOR TO SHIFT GEARS. CAR IS TAKEN TO LOCAL NISSAN DEALER AND CLUTCH FLUID FLUSHED AND REPLACED WITH DOT 4 FLUID. DRIVING CAR THE VERY SAME DAY AND EXACT SAME SYMPTOMS REOCCUR BUT THIS TIME NO GEAR ENGAGEMENT IS POSSIBLE EVEN WITH CLUTCH PEDAL PRESSED ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. CAR IS TOWED BACK TO DEALER AND INSPECTED. INSPECTION REVEALS FAILED CONCENTRIC SLAVE AND CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDERS. COST TO REPAIR OVER $1000, ACCORDING TO POWERTRAIN WARRANTY PROVIDED WITH VEHICLE THE CONCENTRIC SLAVE SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY BUT DEALER CLAIMS OTHERWISE, SPEAKING WITH NISSAN CONSUMER AFFAIRS TO TRY RESOLVING THE ISSUE BUT NO LUCK SO FAR. *TR

I WAS ON THE FREEWAY AND ALL OF A SUDDEN MY CLUTCH PEDAL LOSES ALL PRESSURE AND DROPS TO THE FLOOR WHILE I WAS TRYING TO DOWNSHIFT TO SLOW DOWN. MY CAR WOULD NOT LET ME OUT OF GEAR AND I HAD TO STOP WHILE IN GEAR CAUSING THE ENGINE TO CUT OFF. THIS CAUSED ME TO LOSE ALL POWER ASSISTED BRAKES. I WAS EXITING AND TRYING TO SLOW DOWN. I ALMOST CAUSED AN ACCIDENT AND HAD TO SWERVE TO AVOID HITTING CARS AHEAD OF ME WHILE STILL TRAVELING AROUND 50 MPH. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND THERE HAVE BEEN NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS PART. *TR

DROVE MY CAR TO THE STORE THAT WAS APPROXIMATELY 2 MILES AWAY FROM MY HOME. ON THE WAY THERE, THE CAR WAS OPERATING IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION, AS USUAL. THE KEY INDICATOR LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD LIT UP BUT THEN QUICKLY DISAPPEARED. AFTER GOING INTO THE STORE, I GOT BACK INTO MY CAR AND TRIED TO START IT UP WITH THE PUSH START BUTTON, BUT NOTHING HAPPENED. SINCE THE KEY INDICATOR LIGHT HAD GONE OFF PREVIOUSLY, I THOUGH THE BATTERY ON MY KEY WAS RUNNING OUT, SO I INSERTED IT IN THE KEY PORT, WHICH INDICATED THE KEY STILL HAD POWER TO IN. I TRIED TO START THE CAR AGAIN BUT NOTHING HAPPENED. THE CAR WAS COMPLETELY DEAD. I THEN CALLED A FAMILY MEMBER TO BRING MY SPARE KEY TO SEE IF THAT WORKED, BUT THE SAME RESULTS HAPPENED. I THEN CALLED A TOW TRUCK, WHO ALMOST WASN'T ABLE TO MOVE MY CAR ONTO THE TRUCK BECAUSE IT WAS COMPLETELY LOCKED UP, AND TOWED MY CAR TO THE NISSAN DEALER. IT WAS THERE THAT THEY TOLD ME THAT THE STEERING LOCK WENT OUT AND COULD NOT FUNCTION WITHOUT IT. *TR

BASE MODEL. MANUAL TRANSMISSION. STOCK - NO AFTERMARKET ENHANCEMENTS. ON FREEWAY ATTEMPTING TO DECELERATE (SHIFTING DOWN FROM 5TH TO 4TH) CLUTCH PEDAL "DISAPPEARS" INTO THE FLOOR BOARD. THIS MARKS THE BEGINNING OF PROBLEMS WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL HAVING A MIND OF IT'S OWN. TRANSMISSION HARD TO SHIFT 1ST AND 2ND GEAR. BARELY MADE IT INTO DEALERSHIP NEXT MORNING. DEALERSHIP ONLY HAS A TSB TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION FLUID. FLUID CHANGED, DROVE AWAY. PROBLEM RETURNED 2/7/14 AND CONTINUED TO GET WORSE FOR NEXT FEW DAYS. RETURNED VEHICLE TO NISSAN DEALERSHIP ON 2/12/14 WHERE IT IS WAITING FOR PARTS (CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER). NISSAN CORPORATION TSB RECOMMENDS REPLACEMENT OF CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER AT SAME TIME OF CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER, HOWEVER, DEALERSHIP HAS NOT MADE MENTION OF THIS. PART SUPPOSEDLY WON'T ARRIVE UNTIL 3/3/14. AFTER FURTHER RESEARCH, THE 370Z SUFFERS FROM THIS CLUTCH SLAVE/MASTER CYLINDER ISSUE ON A CONSISTENT BASIS. CURRENT CAR HAS ONLY 7,600 MILES. THIS IS COVERED UNDER 3/36 WARRANTY, HOWEVER, THE ISSUE IS DANGEROUS BECAUSE IT CAN HAPPEN SO SUDDENLY AND I WOULD REITERATE THAT THIS PROBLEM IS APPARENTLY COMMON. WHO WAITS 3 WEEKS FOR A CLUTCH PART UNLESS NISSAN CORPORATIONS IS SO BACK-ORDERED ON 370Z CLUTCH COMPONENTS THAT NISSAN CANNOT KEEP UP WITH THIS REPAIR DEMAND? NISSAN NEEDS TO RE-ENGINEER THIS CLUTCH MASTER/SLAVE CYLINDER ISSUE AND RECALL THESE CARS TO GET THEM FIXED PROPERLY. *TR

IT IS MY UNDERSTANDING THAT NISSAN HAS HAD MANY ISSUES OF THE STEERING LOCK FEATURE THAT FAILS IN THE NISSAN 370Z. IF THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN SO WIDE SPREAD THE CONSUMER SHOULD NOT HAVE TO FORK OVER 1200$ FOR AN ISSUE THAT'S SO WELL KNOWN. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL BECAUSE THEY ARE GOING TO PISS OFF ALOT OF NISSAN BUYERS FOR A CONDITION THAT'S SO WIDESPREAD. I THINK THE FACT THAT THE PART IS SO BACK ORDERED SHOULD INDICATE TO YOU THAT YOU HAVE A BIG PROBLEM. *TR

BRAKES AND STEERING WHEEL STUCK DUE TO STEERING LOCK FAILURE. KNOWN PROBLEM FOR 2009 TO EARLY 2011 NISSAN 370Z. TOTAL VALUE $1029.85. CONSUMERS SHOULD NOT HAVE TO PAY FOR A FACTORY FAULT. *TR

ON OCTOBER 19, 2012, WHILE DRIVING AND BEGINNING TO STOP, MY BRAKE LIGHT AND MY ABS LIGHT CAME ON. MY BRAKE LIGHT WOULD GO OFF; HOWEVER, THE ABS/TRACTION LIGHT REMAINED ON. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT ON OCTOBER 20, 2012 AND WAS TOLD THAT THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER WAS LEAKING AND THAT THERE HAD BEEN A RECALL ON THE PART AND THEY WOULD FIX IT, BUT DID NOT KNOW WHEN THEY WOULD GET THE PART AND AS OF OCTOBER 29, 2012, I HAVE NOT BEEN CONTACTED BY THE DEALERSHIP ABOUT THE PART. I AM VERY WORRIED AS I WAS READING ABOUT THE PART AND IT THE INFORMATION OBTAINED STATED THAT ""BRAKE FLUID MAY LEAK FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER," SAID NHTSA IN ITS RECALL SUMMARY OF THE 2009 SENTRA. "IF THE AMOUNT OF BRAKE FLUID IN THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR DECREASES TO BELOW THE MINIMUM LEVEL, THE BRAKE SYSTEM WARNING INDICATOR WILL ILLUMINATE AS DESIGNED, AND THE BRAKES WILL NOT FUNCTION PROPERLY. IF THE WARNING LAMP IS CONTINUOUSLY IGNORED, ONE OF THE BRAKE CIRCUITS ON THE VEHICLE MAY FAIL, INCREASING STOPPING DISTANCE AND INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH." NISSAN HAS YET TO FIX THIS PART AND I BELIEVE AT THIS TIME ARE BEING NEGLIGENT AS FURTHER READING ABOUT THE SITUATION SAID THAT THE BACK BRAKES WILL ALSO START TO WEAR DUE TO CONSTANT PRESSURE BEING PUT ON THEM TO STOP THE VEHICLE BECAUSE OF THIS MALFUNCTION AND I BELIEVE THAT NISSAN AT THIS TIME SHOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR REPLACING MY BACK AND FRONT BRAKES SINCE THEY HAVE BEEN NEGLIGENT IN RESPONDING TO THE ISSUE. *TR

THE FUEL GAUGE INDICATOR OR THE FUEL LEVEL SENDER MALFUNCTIONED. AFTER FILLING UP THE TANK CLEARLY ALMOST TO THE TOP, THE FUEL GAUGE SHOWED MISINFORMATION WHICH THE TANK WAS NOT FULL. *TR