2014 Mazda CX-5 SUV FWD

After pushing the button to turn my car off, the engine turns off but none of the electronics does. I have to turn my car on and off numerous times to get the navigation/radio screen to turn off, I'm a single woman and I don't want to come back to my car to find a dead battery late at night with no one around. I was advised that Mazda was aware of the problem with the sensor #KDY0-46-040, but was not issuing a recall. https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion- t49115_ds799849?sntEmlId=1964374109#msg850430, which shows numerous people are having the same problem and Mazda has assisted some of them in having this part replaced at no cost. This issue should be a recall from Mazda. It's not a wear and tear kind of problem, after many complains they actually changed the specifics of the new part, showing that they know it was defective.

Strong gasoline odor outside the vehicle. I verified that the gas cap is locked after filling up. I see no dash board warning lights that would suggest that there is a problem with the fuel cap or fuel system. The odor is still there even after running the tank down considerably. The smell is mostly detected on the driver side of the vehicle starting at the driver door and moving toward the rear of the vehicle where the fuel door is positioned. The smell is there in warm and cooler weather. It is 60 degrees F and I can smell .it.

The car will not shut off while in park when you push the start/stop button. it stays in ACC mode. It takes multiple times to completely shut the car off.

Car will not sense that it is in park. It constantly says to put car in park when it already is. The car needs to be turned On and off several times to get it to work and one time it took 45 minutes. It happens nearly every day. It’s been going on for months and I’ve had 3 shops look at it. I called Mazda as well and they acted like they never heard of such a thing. Searching online it is very common with the make and model and year of the car.

Water is able to get into the back lift gate and has caused the latch to deteriorate and go bad making it unable to be opened and causing a safety issue for the consumer

While driving on an urban road and going over a slight bump, heard a clunk in the left rear wheel well. Pulled over and off road to investigate the situation. Was unable to see any particular cause in the rear suspension. However a small piece of corroded aluminum fell onto the ground from up inside the wheel well. The vehicle was taken to a repair shop and the diagnosis was that both aluminum rear shock mounting plates were corroded. The left rear shock had separated from the mounting plate. The service station was unable to locate-acquire new mounting plates, hence had to have both shocks completely replaced on Aug. 19, 2021. I believe this problem represents a risk to the public, a potentially serious safety issue. I have a photo of the repair invoice and imagine the repair shop can confirm the basic problem. I located a Mazda email contact address and emailed them regarding the issue this evening.

My 2014 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring has recently started experiencing an issue widely reported online related to the battery. The issue is the electrical/ignition system fails to turn the battery off when the vehicle is turned off. In other words, the car engine shuts down, but the accessory power (battery) remains on. This can be identified by the clock and dashboard display remaining on. This is a significant issue because unless the battery is turned off, it will become drained, and the car will fail to start. This can leave the driver stranded and the car incapacitated. It is very easy to fail to notice the accessory power is still on. I have reported the issue to Mazda at the customer line - 1800-222-5500 and they have no outstanding warranties or recalls related to this. My reference number is 1-4272020134. I have also contacted a local Mazda dealer and they are unfamiliar with the issue. Per customer reports, the issue is related to a faulty sensor on the battery. To reproduce the issue: 1) Put car in park 2) Push power button. Car engine turns off. Battery remains on. The only workaround is to turn the car back on, shift into different gears and turn power off. At some random iteration, it will power the battery off. There are numerous reports of this online, including - https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/t/cx-5-wont-fully-shut-off.123864884/ Solution - https://mazda.oemdtc.com/665/ignition-does-not-turn-off-when-pressing-startstop-button-2013-2014-mazda

My 2014 Mazda CX5 will not shut off when I push the on/off button. I have to move the shifter from left to right real hard a couple of times, then continue to try until it finally shuts off when you push the button. It apparently is a sensor on the transmission, however I am unable to pay for this at this time. I feel that because of all the other people who have spoke about this same issue online, that Mazda should do a recall. Thank you for your consideration .

The IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF WHEN PRESSING START / STOP BUTTON. So you can't even turn the car off more then 1/2 the time. You have to disconnect the battery.

The auxillary power stays on after car is put into PARK and the engine is turned off. The car is not registering that it is in park. The auxillary power remains on. It takes several attempts of turning car on and back off again and moving the shifter before the car will turn off completely.

For the last couple of months every time I place my car in park and press the PUSH START/OFF BUTTON- the car does not completely shut off. So I start the car again, move the gear shift out of park all the way back into drive and back into park again in hopes when I push off button it will cut off. It is a gamble. Now I am having to cut the car on and off almost 6 times in a row to get it to cut off completely. Not only is it causing incredible wear and tear on my vehicle, it is a horrible defect that seems like it will be dangerous and costly in the long run. I think Mazda should recall this issue and fix it promptly!

Ignition light stays on, car turns off but battery and dash lights stay on continuously. You have to repeatedly turn car off and on and raddle shifter to turn off, this causes depletion of batter and can DANGEROUSLY leave one or ones family stranded and in a bad situation. This problem has been stated by numerous consumers on the website. Contacted my mazda dealership and technitain agreed that they have come upon this issue quite a lot, charging for diagnostics and labor $100's of dollars, possible issues with break or parking switch. Problem can be possibly fixed but what if it occurs again a few months or year down the road, leading to a never ending viscous $bill$ cycle. I'm very concerned about a depleted battery, I also contacted cooperate and representative informed my conversation was recorded and will be hopefully looked into but as of yet nothing has been done, rep informed me to contact NHTSA.GOV and here I am. I was surprised of the many consumers on the web having this issue, I had been having numerous battery issues and was replaced...THIS HAS TO BE LOOKED INTO AND A RECALL BE INSTITUTED ASAP. A VEHICLE NOT SHUTTING OFF RESULTING IN A DEPLETED BATTERY THEN BEING STRANDED IS VERY CONCERNING, WORRISOME AND DANGEROUS IF THERE'S NO HELP AROUND.

The car will not shut off. If you put it in park and press the start/stop engine button the car radio and accessories are still on. You have to shift gears several times keeping foot on the brake and keep trying until it turns off.

When I put the car in park and push the button to shut it off only the engine shuts down. The auxiliary power (radio, etc) stays on and drains the battery. I have to restart it and drive it around, sometimes many times, before it will finally shut down. I looked online and found tons of complaints with many model years of this car for this same issue. Why is Mazda not doing a recall to fix this known issue?

Turn the car off--but it does not turn off. I put my foot on the brake and turning it off does not work. I have to shake and move the gear shifter aggressively for it to turn off and moving the car and reversing to get the car to turn off.

THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE WINDSHIELD WAS FRACTURED ON THE PASSENGER’S SIDE. THE FRACTURE STARTED AT THE BASE OF THE WINDSHIELD AND EXPANDED TO 3 INCHES PAST THE CENTER OF THE WINDSHIELD. THE FRACTURE STOPPED 10 INCHES ABOVE THE WINDSHIELD. THE DRIVER’S SIDE WAS ALSO FRACTURED 6 INCHES TO THE LEFT, AND 18 INCHES TO THE RIGHT, AND APPROXIMATELY 10 AND A HALF INCHES FROM THE BASE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE WINDSHIELD WAS NOT HIT BY AN OBJECT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED AND INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 70,000.

PLASTIC MOLDING AT BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD CAME LOOSE. AND FOR SOMETIME O EXPLAINED TO DEALERSHIP I HEARD WHAT SOUNDED LIKE GLASS SHIFTING AND FELT THAT THE GLASS WAS GOING TO SHATTER. THIS MORNING I NOTICED WINDSHIELD CRACKED ON OUTSIDE FROM TOP MIDDLE PAST REVIEW MIRROR. VEHICLE WAS PARKED IN DRIVEWAY AND WHEN I WALKED TO MY CAR I NOTICED CRACK. THE PLASTIC MOLDING WAS NOT SUPPORTING GLASS IN PLACE. AND RUBBER STRIP AROUND GLASS IS LIFTED AS REFLECTED IN PICTURE.

THE CAR WILL NOT SHUT OFF WHEN YOU PUSH THE BUTTON BECAUSE IT DOES NOT REALIZE IT IS IN ''PARK'. THE ISSUE IS WITH DEFECTIVE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SWITCH. THIS CAUSES THE BATTERY. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR THE PAST 3 YEARS.

THE CAR WON'T SHUT OFF WHEN PUT ON PARK AND THE START/STOP BUTTON GETS PUSHED THE PROBLEM SUPPOSEDLY LIES WITH A DEFECTIVE SHIFTER POSITION SENSOR LOTS OF COMPLAINTS ON THE INTERNET ABOUT THIS ISSUE MAZDA AND DEALERSHIPS ARE AWARE OF THE PROBLEM BUT OFFICIALLY PRETEND IT'S NOT THERE

THE STARTER IGNITION BUTTON WILL TURN OFF THE ENGINE BUT FAIL TO TURN OFF THE RADIO AND THE LIGHTS. THE ONLY WAY TO TURN IT OFF IS TO REPEATEDLY TURN ON THE IGNITION BUTTON, UNTIL IT TURNS OFF.

DRIVING 5MPH ONTO STREET FROM DRIVEWAY, LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. WHEN STOPPED, THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT WHEEL WAS POINTING AWAY FROM THE INTENDED DIRECTION. THE BOLT CONNECTING THE CONTROL ARM TO THE WHEEL HAD SHEARED OFF. DUE TO THE DECOUPLING, THE LEFT AXLE WAS PULLED OUT OF TRANSMISSION AND WAS DAMAGED AS WELL. LUCKILY, THIS OCCURRED AT A SLOW SPEED AND NO ONE WAS INJURED (AT HIGHER SPEEDS, THIS WOULD HAVE BEEN CATASTROPHIC).

HAVE HAD ISSUE FOR OVER TWO YEARS HAVE FOUND OVER 35 PEOPLE ONLINE WITH SAME ISSUE. WHEN PUTTING VEHICLE IN PARK AND TURNING OFF VEHICLE THE RADIO REMAINS ON. HAPPENS ALMOST EVERY TIME. SOMETIMES IF I TURN CAR BACK ON AND PUT SHIFTER IN DRIVE THEN BACK TO PARK IT TURNS CAR BACK OFF. BUT EVERYTIME MY DAUGHTERS DRIVE MY CAR OR VALETS PARK THE CAR OR I TAKE CAR TO REPAIR SHOP RADIO STAYS ON FOR ALL OF THEM KILLING BATTERY. TOOK MY CAR TO AUTOBODY SHOP AND EXPLAINED THE HACK TO KEEP CAR FROM DYING. THEY CALLED SAID THEY DID DIAGNOSTIC OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND SEVERAL ELECTRICAL PROBLEM CODES SHOWED UP SO THEY CONVINCED ME TO REPLACE BATTERY. SAME ERROR CODES AFTER REPLACING BATTERY. PLEASE CREATE RECALL ON THIS ISSUE. DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE NOT KNOWING IF MY WIFE AND DAUGHTERS WILL BE STRANDED.

THE PAINT IS FADING ON MY 2014 MADZA . THE CAR IS ONLY 6 YEARS OLD.

WHEN I TURN THE CAR OFF (PUSH BUTTON), THE CAR DOES NOT COMPLETELY TURN OFF. THE ELECTRONICS DO NOT SHUT OFF WITH THE CAR AND DRAIN THE BATTERY LEAVING YOU STRANDED THE NEXT TIME YOU TRY TO START THE CAR. FROM WHAT I HAVE DISCOVERED, IT IS THE GEAR SHIFTER/SENSOR ON THE TRANSMISSION. SEE THE SAME COMPLAINT FROM MANY OTHERS: HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T49115_DS799849

MY CAR HAS BEEN EXPERIENCING AN ISSUE WITH THE ENGINE. WHEN I TURN THE ENGINE OFF THE RADIO AND LIGHTS REMAIN ON. AND, THEN I HAVE TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON AND MOVE THE CAR FROM PARK TO DRIVE OR REVERSE AND TURN THE WHEEL THIS HAVE TO BE MULTIPLE TIMES SOMETIMES ABOUT 10 TIMES TO GET THE CAR OFF. IT HAS CAUSED ME TO RUN LATE AND A BATTERY REPLACEMENT. THIS IS HUGE PROBLEM AND NEEDS TO BE RECALLED AND AT NO CHARGE TO THE CUSTOMERS AND OWNERS OF THE MAZDA.

SUNROOF UNEXPECTEDLY AND RANDOMLY EXPLODED WHILE DRIVING. THERE WAS NO IMPACT, GLASS SHATTERED WITHOUT NOTICE AND PRODUCED A VERY LOUD EXPLOSION SIMILAR TO THE SOUND OF A GUN SHOT. THIS OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AT 70MPH WITH OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE AT APPROX. 49 DEGREE FAHRENHEIT, AND NO RAIN. DASH CAM FOOTAGE CONFIRMS NO DEBRIS WERE THROWN AT THE CAR AND THIS HAPPENED UNEXPLAINABLY. HAD SUNROOF VISOR BEEN OPEN, SHARDS OF GLASS WOULD HAVE RAINED DOWN ON DRIVER AND PASSENGER. THE EXPERIENCE OF HEARING A LOUD EXPLOSION WHILE DRIVING IS VERY STARTLING AND UNSAFE, ESPECIALLY WITH THE POTENTIAL FOR GLASS SHARDS TO FALL ONTO THE DRIVER AND PASSENGERS.

WHEN I TURN OFF THE ENGINE, THE ELECTRONICS (LIGHTS, RADIO) IN THE CAR STAY ON AND THE DOORS WON'T LOCK IF I WANTED TO LEAVE THE VEHICLE. I'VE FOUND THAT, WHILE IN PARK, I NEED TO PULL THE GEARSHIFT HARD TOWARDS THE STEERING WHEEL FOR THE CAR TO "REGISTER" THAT I'M ACTUALLY IN PARK. I'VE READ ONLINE THAT MAZDA RECOGNIZES THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM, BUT WON'T DO A RECALL ON IT. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR WELL OVER A YEAR NOW. I'M ADDING AN ARBITRARY DATE BELOW.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE STATIONARY AND ATTEMPTING TO SHUT-OFF VEHICLE USING THE PUSH TO START BUTTON, THE VEHICLE TURNED OFF HOWEVER, THE BATTERY REMAINED ON CAUSING THE BATTERY TO DRAIN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO LOCAL DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER HAS NOT BEEN INFORMED OF FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 135,000.

MY 2014 CX5 PAINT IS FADING! PAINT SHOULD NOT FADE IN SUCH A SHORT TIME. IT'S LITERALLY SLIDING OFF MY CAR!

WHEN TURNING THE VEHICLE OFF THE ENGINE WILL TURN OFF BUT THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS CONTINUE RUNNING. PARK SHIFTER SWITCH WEARS DOWN AND STOPS WORKING. THIS PROBLEM COULD RESULT IN BATTERY TO DIE. THIS HAPPENS REPEATEDLY. THIS IS WHEN THE DRIVER IS ATTEMPTING TO PARK THE VEHICLE.

WHEN I TURN OFF THE ENGINE, THE ELECTRONICS (LIGHTS, RADIO) IN THE CAR STAY ON AND THE DOORS WON'T LOCK IF I WANTED TO LEAVE THE VEHICLE. I HAVE TO START THE ENGINE AND TURN IT OFF MULTIPLE TIMES (SOMETIMES 20+ TIMES) TO COMPLETELY SHUT EVERYTHING OFF. MAZDA RECOGNIZES THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM, BUT WON'T DO A RECALL ON IT.

WHEN VEHICLE IS PARKED AND THE SHIFT IS IN P POSITION THE IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF WHEN PRESSING START STOP BUTTON.THE IGNITION STAYS ON IN ACCESSORY MODE. I NEED TO START AND STOP NUMEROUS TIMES AND PUT SHIFT INTO R AND THEN P TO TURN CAR OFF. IT WOULD TAKE ANYWHERE FROM 3 TO 10 TIMES. I SEARCHED THE WEB AND FOUND THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM IN 2014 MAZDA CX-5 AND THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINT ABOUT IT. THIS ISSUE LEADS TO DRIVER STRANDED AS WITHOUT PROPER SHUTOFF,IT RUNS DOWN BATTERY. MAZDA IS FULLY AWARE OF THIS ISSUE AND THEY HAVE RECTIFIED THE SHIFTER SWITCH WITH NEW PART # KDY0-46-040. THERE WAS A SERVICE BULLETIN SEND TO MAZDA DEALERS ON 12/22/15 AND 4/11/16 ON HOW TO ADDRESS THIS PROBLEM WITH BULLETIN NO. 05-004/16 AND NOW RECOMMENDING TO REPLACE THE SWITCH UNIT WITH NEW PART # KDY0-46-040. HOWEVER THERE IS NO RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE. MAZDA SHOULD REPAIR THIS DEFECTIVE PART WITHOUT ADDITIONAL COST TO OWNERS AS THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS AS YOU CAN EASILY LEAVE CAR IN ACCESSORY MODE AND CAR BATTERY WILL BE DEAD UPON RETURN. THIS HAS OCCURRED TO US MULTIPLE TIMES AND AS RECENT AS THIS WEEK ONLY.

THIS HAS BEEN AN ONGOING PROBLEM FOR THE LAST 4 YEARS. IGNITION SWITCH IS FAULTY. WHEN VEHICLE IS SHUT OFF, THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF, BUT THE AUXILIARY (RADIO, HEAT, AC) STAYS ON. THE SHIFT MUST BE MANIPULATED SEVERAL TIMES TO GET THE AUXILIARY OFF. BATTERY HAS BEEN DRAINED BECAUSE SOMEONE WHO DOES NOT KNOW ABOUT THIS DEFECT WILL INADVERTENTLY LEAVE IT ON.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED OFF AND RESTARTED, SEVERAL ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS REMAINED FUNCTIONAL. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE GEAR SHIFTER WAS AGGRESSIVELY MANIPULATED BEFORE THE VEHICLE WOULD TURN ON OR OFF. THE CONTACT STATED THAT ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, THE BATTERY WAS DRAINED. THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED. GERALD JONES MAZDA (4022 WASHINGTON RD, AUGUSTA, GA 30907, (706)862-1793) WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WAS NEEDED TO PROVE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS ALSO REFERRED TO THE NHTSA FOR ASSISTANCE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

WHEN VEHICLE IS STATIONARY THE IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF WHEN PRESSING START STOP BUTTON. THE IGNITION STAYS ON IN ACCESSORY MODE. WHEN THE SHIFT IS IN P POSITION. TAKES NUMEROUS TRIES TO TURN CAR OFF. THIS ALSO RUNS BATTERY DOWN HAD TO REPLACE BATTERY AT 44,000 MILES. THERE WAS A SERVICE BULLETIN SEND TO MAZDA DEALERS ON 12/22/15 AND 4/11/16 ON HOW TO ADDRESS THIS PROBLEM BULLETIN NO. 05-004/16 THEY SAID DEALER SHOULD REPLACE THE SWITCH UNIT AND CARS PRODUCED AFTER 12/27/2013 WOULD HAVE A MODIFIED SWITCH UNIT TO CORRECT THE PROBLEM. ALSO MESSAGE ON DASH STATES CAR IS NOT IN PARK PUT SHIFT IN PROPER POSITION EVEN THOUGH SHIFT IS IN CORRECT POSITION. THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS YOU CAN EASILY LEAVE CAR IN ACCESSORY MODE AND CAR BATTERY WILL BE DEAD UPON RETURN. THIS HAS HAPPENED NUMEROUS TIMES. BROUGHT TO DEALER WAS INFORMED THEY HAD NOT HEARD OF PROBLEM AND THEY RECOMMENDED I CHANGE ENTIRE SHIFT MECHANISM INSTEAD OF SWITCH UNIT THAT THEIR MAZDA BULLETIN STATES. *TR

WAS DRIVING WITH FAMILY ON HIGHWAY WHEN CAR STARTED TO FEEL WOBBLY AND I BEGAN SMELLING THE DISTINCT SMELL OF BURNING BRAKES. I PULLED OVER AT THE CLOSES STORE (.5 MILES) . I THEN NOTICED THE REAR, PASSENGER CALIPER WAS SMOKING. I LATER FOUND OUT (AFTER A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS AND HOURS OF LABOR) THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH THE REAR CALIPERS SIEZING... APPARENTLY THIS ISN'T CONSIDERED "SAFETY"?!?!. IF I WASN'T MECHANICALLY INCLINED I MAY HAVE KEPT DRIVING. MY SORT RIDE WAS ENOUGH TO HEAT UP AND LOOSEN 2 OF MY LUG NUTS. IF THAT ISN'T A SAFETY HAZARD THEN I DON'T KNOW WHAT IS.

THE IGNITION SWITCH DOES NOT WANT TO TURN OFF. THERE IS A FAULTY SENSOR THAT DOESN'T RELAY TO THE CAR THAT IT IS IN PARK. THE CAR HAS TO BE PUT BACK INTO GEAR MULTIPLE TIMES FOR IT TO TURN OFF. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SOME TIME NOW. I HAVE LOOKED IT UP ONLINE AND COULDN'T BELIEVE HOW MANY MAZDA CX5 OWNERS HAVE THIS SAME ISSUE. IT NEEDS TO BE A RECALL. THE BATTERY WEARS DOWN WHEN IT IS NOT TURNED OFF ALL THE WAY AND PEOPLE ARE GETTING STRANDED. THANKS! *TR

THE VEHICLE FAILS TO TURN OFF AUXILIARY POWER WHEN THE ENGINE IS DISENGAGED AFTER VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THIS PREVENTS THE VEHICLE FROM LOCKING AND RESULTS IN A DRAINED BATTERY. *TR

2014 MAZDA CX-5. I TOUR THE CAR IN PARK AND TURN IT OFF. THE CAR DOES NOT TURN OFF. I TURN THE ENGINE BACK ON, PUT IN REVERSE, PUT IT BACK IN PARK AND TRY AGAIN. I TURN OFF BLUETOOTH, ALL AUDIO, AND MAKE SURE ALL THE DOORS ARE CLOSED. SOMETIMES IT TAKES UP TO 8 OR 9 TRIES BEFORE THE 'ACCESSORIES' IN THE CAR SHUT DOWN. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR WEEKS NOW. NOW MY BLUETOOTH IS NOT CONNECTING.

THE AIRBAG WARNING LIGHT HAS COME ON. MY MECHANIC AND OPEN ROAD MAZDA SAID THE SAD CONTROL MODULE IS BAD. DASHBOARD LIGHT GOES OFF WHEN IT'S VERY HOT OUT. IF I DRIVE THROUGH A PUDDLE. I WAS INFORMED THAT THE MODULE IS BEHAVING EXACTLY LIKE THE RECALLED MODULES ON THE VIN NUMBERS BOTH BEFORE AND AFTER MY VIN. I BELIEVE THE MODULE IN MY TRUCK WITH THE ABOVE MENTIONED VIN SHOULD ALSO BE A SAFETY RECALL. MAZDA SAID NHTSA MUST ORDER THEM TO FIX IT AS A RECALL BEFORE THEY WILL FIX IT.

FRONT WINDSHIELD HAS CRACK RUNNING DOWN WINDSHIELD STARTING AT VERY TOP OF WINDSHIELD BEHIND THE REAR VIEW MIRROR. CAR WAS PARKED OVER NIGHT IN MY DRIVEWAY AND NEXT MORNING CRACK HAS APPEARED. CRACK RUNS DOWN ABOUT 12 INCHES AND HOOKS TO THE SIDE. CAR DID NOT EXPERIENCE ANY ROAD DEBRIES OR EXTREME CONDITIONS TO VALIDATE THE MYSTERIOUS CRACK. UPON FURTHER RESEARCH HAVE LEARNED THAT SEVERAL OWNERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME ISSUE OF A WINDSHIELD CRACK WITH NO EXPLINATION. MAZDA WILL NOT COVER ANY WARRANTY AND WILL NOT ACCEPT THAT THEY HAVE A WINDSHIELD ISSUE.

WE WERE DRIVING HOME, THIS WAS LATE AT NIGHT, NO TRAFFIC, AND WE HEARD A LOUD BANG, SOUNDED LIKE A GUNSHOT OR EXPLOSION, AFTER WE MADE SURE THE KIDS WERE ALRIGHT, WE REALIZED OUR SUNROOF HAD A BIG HOLE IN IT AND WE WERE SITTING IN SHARDS OF GLASS. THE SUNROOF OPENS 2 WAYS, IT SLIDES BACK OR THE BACK LIFTS UP TO PROVIDE VENTING. THE GLASS WAS LIFTED UP IN THE BACK. AFTER WE REGAINED COMPOSURE AND WERE ABLE TO PULL OFF TO THE SHOULDER ON A 40 MPH ROAD WITH NO TRAFFIC IN SIGHT, WE REALIZED IT LOOKED AS IF THE GLASS EXPLODED IN AN UPWARD MOTION. THE SOUND AND IMPACT AND SHARDS OF GLASS CERTAINLY SCARED AND SCARRED ALL IN THE CAR INCLUDING MYSELF, WIFE AND OUR 6 YEAR OLD DAUGHTER. THE SPECIFICS ARE, WE HAD JUST TURNED LEFT ONTO AN EASTBOUND ROAD, WE HADN'T EVEN GOTTEN UP TO SPEED WHEN THIS HAPPENED. AGAIN, THERE WERE NO OTHER VEHICLES, ONLY OPEN FIELDS, WE STARTED TO THINK THAT SOMEONE HAD TAKEN A SHOT AT US. THIS NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED NOW.

TL THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A MANUFACTURING ERROR FOR THE UPSWITCH BUILT INTO THE SELECTER LEVER COMPONENT IN THE GEAR SHIFT IN AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. THE SWITCH WOULD NOT TURN OFF ONE OUT OF EVERY THREE TIMES, WHICH DRAINED THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY. THE MANUFACTURER STATED THAT THEY SAW NO RECALLS FOR THE FAILURE AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO NHTSA. THE CONTACT STILL HAD AN EXTENDED WARRANTY, BUT WOULD NOT COVER THE FAILURE. AN UNKNOWN DEALER ALSO STATED THAT THEY WOULD NOT COVER THE REPAIR COSTS. THE DEALER GAVE THE CONTACT A COPY OF A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN REGARDING THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 69,000.

A SENSOR THAT COMMUNICATES WHAT GEAR THE VEHICLE IS IN IS FAULTY. THE VEHICLE THEREFORE WILL NOT TURN OFF COMPLETELY. THE SENSOR DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THE AUXILIARY PANEL REMAINS ON, AND THE VEHICLE BATTERY WILL DRAIN. REPEATED RESTATING AND SHIFTING IN AND OUT OF GEAR WILL FINALLY GET THE VEHICLE TURNED OFF. THIS PROCESS SOMETIMES TAKES SEVERAL MINUTES. THIS ISSUE COULD EASILY LEAVE THE DRIVER STRANDED WITH A DEAD BATTERY IF THEY ARE UNABLE TO GET THE VEHICLE TURNED OFF. THE FAULTY SENSOR HAS BEEN CONFIRMED BY A MECHANIC UNAFFILIATED WITH MAZDA.

THE DASHBOARD INDICATORS SUDDENLY CAME ON ALL AT ONCE WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY. AFTER PULLING OVER TO THE BREAKDOWN LANE AND PUTTING IT IN PARL, THE ENGINE WOULD NOT TURN OFF WHEN PRESSING THE ON/OFF BUTTON. AFTER ARRIVING AT OUR DESTINATION, WE NEEDED SEVERAL ATTEMPTS OF PUTTING IT IN DRIVE AND BACK TO PARK BEFORE THE ENGINE FINALLY SHUT OFF. BUT THE DASHBOARD INDICATORS REMAINED ON AND WOULD NOT TURN OFF, DRAINING THE BATTERY ALL THE WAY DOWN. THE FOLLOWING MORNING, WE HAD TO HAVE THE VEHICLE TOWED TO A NEARBY MAZDA SERVICE CENTER.

CRACKED WINDSHIELD. NO VEHICLES IN FRONT OF ME, ON A CITY STREET. TEMPERATURE OUTSIDE 48-50 DEGREES, INSIDE TEMPERATURE 70 DEGREES. 9:10 A.M. IT RAINED 1/2 HOUR EARLIER. COLD MORNING.

VEHICLE MOVING UNDER 5 MPH IN A CITY PARKING GARAGE. WHILE ENTERING A PARKING SPACE, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED WITHOUT ANY WARNINGS STRIKING THE CEMENT WALL BARRIER AT A DISTANCE OF APPROXIMATELY THREE FEET AWAY. BOTH FOOT BRAKE AND EMERGENCY BRAKE WERE APPLIED. ALL DASH INDICATOR LIGHTS TURNED ON UNTIL AUTO "OFF" BUTTON WAS DEPRESSED. VEHICLE MILEAGE = 37880. NO AIRBAGS WERE DEPLOYED. AUTO WAS TAKEN SAME DAY TO AUTHORIZED (USAA) COLLISION REPAIR FACILITY. REPAIR ESTIMATE AND PHOTOGRAPHS HAVE NOT PROCESSES AT THIS WRITING. DIRVER HAD SEAT BELT ON AND NO INJURIES REPORTED. NO PASSENGERS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BRAKES MADE A SQUEALING NOISE AND FAILED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO FERRA AUTO GROUP MAZDA (3363 SOUTH ARLINGTON ROAD, AKRON, OH 44312, (330) 645-7275) WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE BRAKE PADS WERE WEARING UNEVENLY. THE DEALER FURTHER STATED THAT THE BRAKES REMAINED ENGAGED AND CAUSED THE BRAKE PADS TO WEAR PREMATURELY. THE INNER BRAKE PAD WAS AT A TWO LEVEL AND THE OUTER BRAKE PAD REMAINED AT LEVEL SIX. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE PREMATURE BRAKE PAD WEAR MAY BE CAUSED BY THE CALIPERS AND HYDRAULIC FLEX LINE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 27,000.

THE ENGINE OF MY MAZDA CX-5 2014 TURNED OFF WHEN I GOT HOME BUT I DIDN'T REALIZE THAT ALL THE ACCESSORIES STAYED ON. AS A RESULT, THE CAR DIDN'T START THE NEXT DAY AND IT RAN OUT OF BATTERY. TURNING IT COMPLETELY OFF WAS NOT AN EASY TASK. I HAD TO RESEARCH ONLINE TO FIGURE OUT THE TRICK MOVING THE SHIFT LEVER AND REALIZED THAT THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE. I CHECKED ONLINE AND FOUND A THREAD THAT IS INCLUDED AT THE END OF THIS MESSAGE. MAZDA SHOULD TAKE RESPONSIBILITY AND GET THE CARS FIXED WITH A RECALL BUT IT SEEMS THAT THEY ARE JUST DENYING THE SITUATION. EVEN THOUGH IT DOESN'T REPRESENT A SAFETY ISSUE WHILE DRIVING A CAR, IT DOES REPRESENT A HUGE INCONVENIENCE TO OWNERS, AS WELL AS TIME AND MONEY. THE KNOWN FAULTY PART THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED IS THE KDY0-46-040 SWITCH. ONLINE THREAD WITH MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE: HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T49115_DS799849

WHEN PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON, THE IGNITION WILL NOT TURN OFF SOME TIMES. ALTHOUGH THE SHIFT LEVER IS IN 'P' POSITION AND THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF NORMALLY, THE IGNITION IS STAYING ON (IN ACCESSORY MODE). PROBLEM IS THOUGHT TO BE A WORN SWITCH UNIT.

MY VEHICLE WILL NOT SHUT OFF COMPLETELY. THE BATTERY TO THE CAR AND ALL OF THE DASH LIGHTS STAY ON WHEN I TURN THE VEHICLE OFF. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR OVER 6 MONTHS AND IS HAPPENING MORE FREQUENTLY. I DISCOVERED THAT YOU HAVE TO JIGGLE THE SHIFTER IN PARK MANY TIMES BEFORE TRYING TO SHUT OF THE ENGINE AGAIN. AT TIMES I HAVE TO DO THIS PROCESS 5-6 TIMES TO FINALLY GET MY CAR TO SHUT OFF WHICH IS VERY FRUSTRATING. I HAVE FOUND MANY PEOPLE ON CHAT FORUMS WITH THIS SAME EXACT PROBLEM ON THEIR MAZDA CARS. IT IS BECAUSE OF A DEFECTIVE SHIFTER SWITCH PART KDYO-46-040. MY MAZDA DEALERSHIP IS GOING TO REPLACE THIS PART NEXT WEEK FOR $250. WHEN I CALLED MAZDA CORPORATION THEY WILL NOT DO ANYTHING TO COMPENSATE FOR THIS EXPENSE BECAUSE MY VEHICLE IS OVER THE WARRANTY. THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE SINCE MAZDA HAS INSTALLED A DEFECTIVE PART IN NOT JUST MINE BUT MANY PEOPLES CARS.

AT TIMES THE BREAKS BECOME UNRESPONSIVE TO PRESSURE AND THE PEDAL GOES ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. THE BREAKS HAVE TO BE PUMPED IT ORDER TO GET THEM TO CATCH. SO, I TOOK THE CAR TO A REPAIR SHOP AND THEY CHANGED THE BREAK PADS AND BLEED THE LINES. HOWEVER, AFTER A TEST DRIVE THE ISSUE HAPPENED TO THE MECHANIC AGAIN. AFTER CHECKING THE BREAK SYSTEM AGAIN, THEY FOUND THAT THE VACUUM PUMP IS MALFUNCTIONING. THERE WAS A RECALL FOR OTHER MAZDA CX-5S IN MY MODEL YEAR. BUT MY VIN NUMBER DOES NOT FALL IN THE RECALL. MY AUTO REPAIR PERSON STATED THAT THIS IS SOMETHING THAT SHOULDN'T HAPPEN, AND IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.

THE DRIVER'S SEAT AUTOMATIC FRONT-TO-BACK ADJUSTMENT BECAME ABRUPTLY NON-FUNCTIONAL ON THE LEFT SIDE, MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO ADJUST THE SEAT TO ACHIEVE A SAFE DRIVING POSITION. THIS WAS NOTED WHILE THE CAR WAS PARKED. NO ACCIDENT HAD OCCURRED AND NO DEBRIS WAS NOTED IN THE TRACK. THE DEALER (NELSON MAZDA COOL SPRINGS) NOTED THAT THE BOLTS/NUTS WERE COMPLETELY BROKEN. DEFECT SEEMS SIMILAR TO THE DEFECT DESCRIBED WITH MAZDA, 2, 3 AND 6 DRIVERS SEATS RECALLED IN 2017. *TR CONSUMER STATED I WANTED TO ADD ADDITIONAL INFORMATION TO MY COMPLAINT. I HAVE SINCE COME UPON THIS LINK THAT I BELIEVE DESCRIBES WHAT HAPPENED TO MY SEAT: HTTPS://MAZDA.OEMDTC.COM/511/FRONT-POWER-SEATS-DO-NOT-SLIDE-BACK-AND-FORTH-2013-2016-MAZDA THIS APPEARS TO DESCRIBE A KNOWN MANUFACTURER DEFECT IN DESIGN THAT HAS BEEN ELIMINATED WITH A NEW SEAT BASE DESIGN, THAT IMPACTS DRIVER SAFETY.*JB

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO TURN THE VEHICLE OFF, THE SHIFTER WOULD NOT IMMEDIATELY CHANGE INTO THE PARK POSITION AND THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, THE BATTERY DRAINED DUE TO THE FAILURE. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED, BUT NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 75,000.

WHEN THE CAR IS PUT INTO PARK IT DOES NOT ALWAYS REGISTER COMPLETELY. THE GEAR IS CLEARLY IN PARK, THE DOORS UNLOCK, BUT WHEN I PUSH THE IGNITION OFF THE RADIO STAYS ON. THIS APPARENTLY HAPPENS TO A LOT OF PEOPLE AND IS A FAULTY AT SHIFTER SWITCH (ACCORDING TO THE INTERNET). IT WILL OFTEN TAKE SOME FIDDLING AND 'AGGRESSIVELY' PUTTING IT INTO PARK SOMETIMES 15 TIMES BEFORE I ACTUALLY GET IT TO SHUT OFF. MAZDA HAS CHANGED THE WAY THEY MAKE THIS PART, BUT HAVEN'T ISSUED A RECALL.

I HAVE OWNED THIS VEHICLE FOR THREE YEARS AND THE POWER BRAKES HAVE FAILED THREE SEPARATE TIMES. EACH TIME THIS HAPPENS THE PEDAL IS EXTREMELY HARD TO PUSH AND WILL NOT GO DOWN. EACH TIME I WAS DRIVING IN CITY TYPE TRAFFIC. I HAVE TAKEN THE CAR TO JIM ELLIS MAZDA IN MARIETTA GA. THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM AND RECOMMENDED A BRAKE FLUID FLUSH HAVING SAID THE FLUID WAS DIRTY. ALSO SAID I NEEDED REAR BRAKE PADS DUE TO WEAR BUT THEY WERE FINE.I DID REPLACE THEM WITH NEW AS A PRECAUTION AS I AM A RETIRED AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICIAN. I WILL ATTACH A PHOTO OF THE PADS.THE CAR HAS 49000 MILES ON IT AND WAS PURCHASED CERTIFIED PRE OWNED IN OCTOBER 2016. MY WIFE IS AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR NOW SINCE WE DON'T KNOW WHEN THIS MAY OCCUR AGAIN. EACH TIME THE BRAKES FAILED IT WAS HOT WEATHER AND THE OCCURRENCE WAS SEPT 2ND 2019.

CAR DOES NOT COMPLETELY TURN OFF WHEN IGNITION BUTTON IS PUSHED. ENGINE TURNS OFF, BUT ACCESSORIES STAY ON. IT TAKES SEVERAL TRIES TO FINALLY GET COMPLETELY TURNED OFF. THE PROBLEM STARTED 2 WEEKS AGO, AND HAPPENS ON A DAILY BASIS. SPOKE TO MAZDA AND THEY ARE AWARE OF PROBLEM WITH SHIFTER POSITION SWITCH, BUT HAVE NOT ISSUED ANY KIND OF SERVICE LETTER AT THIS POINT. CUSTOMER MUST PAY TO HAVE PROBLEM FIXED.

WHEN I TURN OFF THE CAR IT DOESN'T DO IT AND I CAN'T CLOSE THE DOORS I HAVE TO TURN ON AND TURN OFF MANY TIMES UNTIL IT WILL WORK. THE MAIN PROBLEM IS I CAN'T CLOSE THE DOORS

I WAS SLOWLY ACCELERATING AWAY FROM A STOP LIGHT IN TRAFFIC ON A 4 LANE HIGHWAY WHEN SUDDENLY THE TRANSMISSION FELT LIKE IT WAS SHIFTING FROM 1ST GEAR INTO REVERSE INSTEAD OF 2ND GEAR. MY AWD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MAZDA SHOOK AND IT FELT LIKE IT WAS SHIFTING FROM 1ST TO REVERSE AND BACK AGAIN REPEATEDLY. I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL AND COASTED THROUGH THE INTERSECTION. I STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE RIGHT LANE AND CHECKED THE GEAR LEVER WHICH WAS IN DRIVE, NO WARNING OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS. I PUT IT IN GEAR AND SLOWLY DROVE FORWARD AND IT STARTED JERKING AGAIN AND I WAS FORCED TO COAST TO A WIDER SPOT SO I WOULDN'T GET REAR ENDED. I HAD IT TOWED BY AAA (THE LOCAL DRIVER REPORTED I WAS THE 6TH MAZDA CX-5 THEY TOWED FOR SIMILAR SYMPTOMS). THEY TOWED IT TO THEIR RECOMMENDED TRANSMISSION SHOP AND AFTER A SCAN, THE MECHANIC COULDN'T FIND ANY CODES. HE TEST DROVE IT AND IT EXHIBITED THE EXACT SAME SYMPTOMS. HE SAID IT WAS PROBABLY ELECTRICAL OR SOFTWARE AND HE COULDN'T FIX IT. I'LL GET IT TOWED TO MAZDA MONDAY. MY WARRANTY FROM CAR MAX RAN OUT 300 MILES AGO, THEY'VE BEEN VERY HELPFUL, BUT NOT MUCH THEY CAN DO UNTIL WE IDENTIFY THE CAUSE.

MY VEHICLE ELECTRONICS DOES NOT TURN OFF AFTER THE IGNITION IS TURN OFF DUE TO SHIFTER SWITCH - MAZDA (KDY0-46-040). VEHICLE ONLY HAS 40K MILES AND IS A CONCERN FOR NOT HAVING THE VEHICLE LONG. IT'S A SAFETY RISK AND WILL LEAD ISSUES WITH THE TRANSMISSION IN THE FUTURE.

2014 MAZDA CX-5 WON'T SHUT OFF. ON TRYING TO TURN OFF THE CAR, THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF BUT THE ELECTRONIC DISPLAY IS STILL ON. IT IS AN ISSUE WITH THE PARKING GEAR SENSOR WHERE THE COMPUTER DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THE CAR IS IN PARKING GEAR. PEOPLE HAVE BEEN SEEING THIS ISSUE FOR ABOUT 2 YEARS NOW AND MAZDA REFUSES TO FIX THE ISSUE. INITIALLY, THE PART WAS NOT AVAILABLE ON THE MARKET BUT WITHIN THE LAST YEAR OR SO, THEY MADE IT AVAILABLE. APPARENTLY, MAZDA ALSO FIXED THE PART FROM THE 2015 VERSION. THE FAULTY NUMBER IS KDY0-46-040. IT IS COSTING CONSUMERS HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS AND TIME TO FIX AN OBVIOUS ISSUE WHICH MAZDA REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE. HERE IS FORUM WITH PEOPLES GRIEVANCES REGARDING THIS ISSUE. EVEN EXTENDED WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER THIS AS PER SOME PEOPLES REVIEWS. I CONTACTED THE EXTENDED WARRANTY DIVISION WITH THIS ISSUE AND THEY REFUSED TO SAY THAT THEY WILL COVER THE ISSUE. THEY ARE ASKING ME TO GO TO A DEALER FOR A DIAGNOSTIC CHECK WHICH WILL COST ME ~$200. HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T49115_DS799849

WE'VE HAD THIS PROBLEM FOR ABOUT 4-MONTHS AND FINALLY HAD TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP TO BE REPAIRED WHICH COSTED ME $340. WE HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE PUSH BUTTON WHICH STARTS AND TURNS THE CAR ON/OFF. IT WILL START FINE BUT WHEN YOU GO TO TURN THE CAR OFF IT KILLS THE ENGINE BUT THE RADIO AND DASH LIGHTS STAY ON ? WE HAVE TO KEEP STARTING THE CAR ABOUT FIVE TIMES AND TRYING TO TURN IT OFF BEFORE IT FINALLY TURNS OFF EVERYTHING COMPLETELY. THIS HAPPENS EVERY TIME WE GET INTO THE VEHICLE. I'M REALLY SHOCKED THAT MAZDA HAS NOT RECALLED THIS PROBLEM ? THE DEALERSHIP ACTED LIKE THEY NEVER SEEN THIS PROBLEM BEFORE ? I HAVE READ HUNDREDS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ON NHTSA. PLEASE GET THEM TO RECALL THIS PROBLEM SO I CAN GET MY MONEY BACK ! THX YOU FOR YOUR HELP. I DO HAVE A COPY OF THE INVOICE WHERE I HAD IT REPAIRED.

MY 2014 CX-5 WILL NOT COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. AFTER PUTTING INTO PARK AND PUSHING THE BUTTON TO TURN OFF, THE ENGINE WILL TURN OFF BUT THE AUX POWER TO THE RADIO AND DASH DO NOT TURN OFF. I HAD TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON AND PUT THE CAR IN GEAR AND BACK TO PARK MULTIPLE TIMES BEFORE IT WILL TURN OFF COMPLETELY.

MY VEHICLE WILL NOT TURN OFF WHEN I PLACE IT IN PARK AND TURN OFF THE ENGINE. IT CAUSES ME TO TURN ON THE ENGINE, MOVE THE VEHICLE'S SHIFT LEVEL, PLACE IT BACK IN PARK, AND TRY TURNING IT OFF AGAIN. SOMETIMES IT TAKES 5 TO 10 MIN OF REPEATING THIS PROCESS IN ORDER TO TURN OFF THE VEHICLE. THIS SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN ISSUE FOR OTHER MAZDA CX-5 OWNERS BASED ON THOUSANDS OF RELATED COMPLAINTS ON FORUMS DATING BACK TO AT LEAST 2015 ON GOOGLE AND BING. THIS EFFECTS THE CARS, BATTERY, ENGINE, SHIFT LEVER, AND ALSO MAKES IT UNCERTAIN IF YOU ACTUALLY HAVE THE CAR TRULY IN PARK OR ON/OFF. THE ISSUE HAPPENED OCCASIONALLY BEFORE BUT IS NOW EVERYTIME I TRYING AND TURN OFF THE VEHICLE! MAZDA USDA IS AWARE OF THE ISSUE NOT TAKING RESPONSIBILITY.

MAZDA CX-5 SWITCHER SHIFT PART NUMBER KDY046040 WENT BAD ON MY VEHICLE AND MANY OTHERS. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL BUT SOMEONE WAS TOLD BY MAZDA CORPORATE THAT IT IS NOT A DANGEROUS ISSUE THEREFORE WON'T BE A RECALL. MEANWHILE THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE ARE PAYING TO REPLACE A FAULTY PART!

SINCE PURCHASED, THE VEHICLE DRIVER NOTED BRAKE PEDAL WAS "SOFT" WHEN BRAKING THE VEHICLE. THERE WAS NOT ENOUGH PRESSURE IN THE MASTER CYLINDER SYSTEM, IN WHICH THE BRAKE DID NOT RETURN APPROPRIATELY. THE PADS DID NOT PERFORM, SO ALL THE INTERIOR ROUTERS GRINDED. THE VEHICLE HAD CONSISTENT MOVEMENT ON A WEEKLY BASIS AND THE MILEAGE ON THE CAR DOES NOT WARRANT ALL FOUR ROTORS AND PAD HAVING TO BE REPLACED.

WHEN SHIFTING INTO PARK, UNABLE TO SHUT OFF ENGINE AS CAR DOES NOT RECOGNIZE IT IS IN PARK

MY VEHICLE DOES NOT COMPLETELY SHUT OFF WHEN THE START BUTTON IS PUSHED. IT GOES INTO AUXILIARY MODE. IF LEFT THE VEHICLE WILL STAY RUNNING UNTIL THE BATTERY DIES. THIS CAN BE RESOLVED AT TIMES BY RESTARTING THE CAR, SHIFTING IT OUT OF PARK, BACK INTO PARK AND THEN SHUTTING THE CAR OFF AGAIN..THIS MAY NEED TO BE DONE MORE THAN ONCE AND SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO MOVE THE CAR A LITTLE TO GET IT TO WORK.

AUXILIARY SYSTEM WILL NOT TURN OFF WHEN THE CAR IS TURNED OFF! THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF BUT THE IGNITION STAYS IN ACCESSORY MODE. HAVE TO TAP BRAKES, GEAR SHIFT, AND SOMETIMES STOP/START CAR AGAIN,WHILE REPEATEDLY PRESSING THE IGNITION STARTER BUTTON. IT'S COMPLETELY RANDOM AND IT HAS DRAINED MY CAR BATTERY TO THE POINT WHERE IT DIED AND MY CAR HAD TO BE JUMP STARTED. THERE ARE MULTIPLE ONLINE FORUMS FROM OTHER PEOPLE HAVING THESE EXACT SAME ISSUES WITH THIS MAZDA. THE DEALERSHIP IS TRYING TO CHARGE $145 JUST TO RUN DIAGNOSTICS ON THIS. THIS IS A SERIOUS PROBLEM AND A SAFETY LIABILITY. I CAN'T BELIEVE THAT MAZDA HAS NOT RECALLED THIS MALFUNCTION. THEY SHOULD BE 100% RESPONSIBLE FOR REPLACING THE SWITCH UNIT. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO WAY TOO MANY PEOPLE!!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. AFTER THE ENGINE TURNED OFF, THE ELECTRICAL POWER REMAINED ACTIVE. IN ORDER FOR THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TO TURN OFF, THE CONTACT HAD TO PRESS THE START BUTTON AND MANEUVER THE GEAR SHIFTER NUMEROUS TIMES. IN ADDITION, THE DOORS FAILED TO LOCK. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED CASE NUMBER: 1-2242523981. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 110,000.

RADIO WILL NOT TURN OFF WHEN THE CAR TURNS OFF. VEHICLE IS IN PARK AND AFTER PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON THE RADIO WILL NOT TURN OFF. LEAVING THE RADIO ON DRAINS THE BATTERY. IF I START THE CAR IN PUT IN ANOTHER GEAR AND BACK TO PARK AND PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON IT SOMETIMES TURNS THE RADIO OFF AND OTHER TIMES IT DOES NOT. THE ENGINE HOWEVER WILL TURN OFF. THE CAR IS STATIONARY WHEN THIS HAPPENS. I DID LOOK ONLINE AND IT HAPPENS FREQUENCY TO MAZDA CX-5 2014 VEHICLES BECAUSE THERE IS A VIDEO ON HOW TO REPLACE THE PARK SWITCH PART TO CORRECT THE ISSUE. ALSO, THE TECHNICIAN AT THE MAZDA DEALERSHIP WHERE I GOT THE PARK SWITCH INSTALLED COMMENTED THAT HE SEES A LOT OF CUSTOMERS WITH THIS ISSUE. THAT IS WHY I THINK IT SHOULD BE RECALLED AND FIXED BY MAZDA. THANK YOU.

WHEN TURNING OFF THE CAR, IT DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT YOU ARE IN THE PARK POSITION AND IT DOES NOT SHUT DOWN PROPERLY. ACCESSORIES SUCH AS THE RADIO AND DISPLAYS DO NOT TURN OFF. THERE ARE NUMEROUS REPORTS ONLINE SAYING THIS IS DUE TO A FAULTY SHIFTER SWITCH.

FAULTY (DEFECTIVE) SHIFTER SWITCH (PART# KDYO-46-040.) PROHIBITS THE CAR FROM TURNING OFF RELIABLY WHEN PUT "IN PARK." THIS NEEDS TO BE CATEGORIZED AS AN OFFICIAL RECALL.

WHEN PUTTING THE VEHICLE IN PARK, THE VEHICLE OFTEN DOES NOT FULLY TURN OFF (GOES INTO ACCESSORY MODE). IT SEEMS TO BE A SHIFTER ISSUE, OR IT DOES NOT KNOW IT'S IN PARK. I HAVE SEEN MANY SIMILAR REPORTS ON THIS AT HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T49115_DS799849

WHEN TURNING THE CAR OFF, THE ENGINE STOPS BUT THE CAR DOES NOT COMPLETELY TURN OFF. I HAVE TO PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE, MOVE IT, PUT IT BACK IN PARK, AND TRY AGAIN. IT HAS TAKEN UP TO 5 TIMES TO TURN THE CAR OFF.

WHEN I TURN THE CAR OFF, THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF BUT THE REST OF THE CAR DOES NOT COMPLETELY TURN OFF - THE RADIO, FAN, LIGHTS STAY ON. TO FIX I USUALLY JUST HAVE TO MOVE THE SHIFTER FROM PARK TO REVERSE TO DRIVE MULTIPLE TIMES QUICKLY AND THEN TRY AND TURN THE CAR OFF.

WHEN THE WEATHER IS HOT, THE CAR WON'T SHUT OFF. THIS HAPPENS MOSTLY ON SHORT TRIPS. THE ENGINE TURNS OFF BUT THE DOOR LOCKS DON'T FUNCTION AND THE RADIO AND OTHER STUFF STAYS ON. IT CAN RUN YOUR BATTERY DOWN WHICH IS UNSAFE, IT HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR IS IN PARK AND YOU PUSH THE POWER BUTTON TO SHUT IT DOWN. THEY SAID I HAD TO AGREE TO $150 FOR DIAGNOSE. THEY SAID THE SHIFTER HAS TO BE REPLACED FOR $600. THEY LET THE AIR OUT OF MY TIRES. I HAD THEM AT 34. THEY WROTE 34 BUT THE LIGHT CAME ON TO INDICATE LOW TIRE PRESSURE. THREE TIRES HAD 30 PSI AND ONE HAD 34 PSI.

2014 CX-5 DOESN'T TURN OFF PROPERLY. I PRESS THE START/STOP ENGINE BUTTON, BUT IT CAN'T SENSE MY CAR IS IN PARK, SO THE DASH AND RADIO REMAINS ON, KILLING THE BATTERY AS A RESULT. THIS OCCURS WHEN PARKING THE CAR IN PARKING LOTS AND MY GARAGE. GETTING IT TO TURN OFF REQUIRES TURNING THE ENGINE OFF/ON OVER AND OVER AGAIN WHILE USING FORCE TO JIGGLE THE SHIFT LEVER BACK AND FORTH, WHICH CAN TAKE SEVERAL MINUTES.

I PARKED THE CAR IN MY GARAGE AND TURNED THE CAR OFF BUT THE RADIO CONSOLE STAYED ON SO I STARTED THE CAR AND SHUT OFF 4-5 TIMES THEN WENT IN THE HOUSE. THIS MORNING THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. I CHECKED THIS PROBLEM ONLINE AND FOUND MANY PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE AND IT SEEMS TO BE A PARKING SENSOR PART # KDY046040

THE SUNROOF GLASS SHATTERED SUDDENLY WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY. I WAS GOING 70-75 MPH AT THE TIME. THERE WERE NO OTHER CARS AROUND AND THE WEATHER WAS PERFECT SO I DO NOT THINK ANYTHING HIT THE SUNROOF. I HAD BOTH THE SUNROOF AND INTERIOR COVER CLOSED COMPLETELY AT THE TIME. THE SOUND WHEN IT SHATTERED WAS VERY LOUD AND THANKFULLY I WAS NOT IN TRAFFIC. SINCE THE COVER WAS CLOSED, IT PREVENTED THE BROKEN GLASS FROM RAINING DOWN ON MY CHILDREN.

CAR WILL NOT TURN OFF.

WHEN PLACED IN PARK AND THE BUTTON PUSHED TO TURN CAR OFF THE ENGINE TURNS OFF BUT THE ACCESSORIES STAY ON. THEN YOU HAVE TO RESTART SEVERAL TIMES EACH TIME TAKING OUT OF PARK AND BACK IN TO FINALLY GET IT TO WORK. I'VE BEEN DEALING WITH THIS FOR OVER 2 YEARS NOW AND I'M TIRED OF THERE NOT BEING A RECALL FOR THIS. THERE ARE A LOT OF COMPLAINTS FOR THIS PROBLEM SO MAZDA NEEDS TO DO THE RIGHT THING AND FIX IT!

THE START/STOP BUTTON FLASHES AMBER INSTEAD OF GREEN WHEN STARTING CAR. DEALER SAID MY BATTERIES IN MY KEYLESS ENTRY NEEDED TO CHANGED WHICH THEY DID AND IT DIDN'T SOLVE THE PROBLEM. SOMEONE ON A MAZDA BOARD SAID TO DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE BATTERY FOR JUST A MINUTE TO RESET THE COMPUTER AND IT WILL GO BACK TO GREEN WHICH I DID BUT THEY LASTS ABOUT 3-4 DAYS THEN YOU HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN. SOME SENSOR MUST BE BAD THAT IT DOESN'T RECOGNIZE THAT THE KEYLESS ENTRY IS IN THE VEHICLE OR THINKS THE BATTERIES ALWAYS NEED TO BE CHANGED. VERY AGGRAVATING TO HAVE TO KEEP DOING THIS.

AFTER SHIFTING THE GEAR TO PARK, ELECTRICAL WILL NOT SHUT OFF. FORMAL COMPLAINT WAS MADE TO MAZDA, BUT THEY WILL NOT HELP. BATTERY WILL BE DRAINED IF NOT ABLE TO SHUT OFF.

CARS ELECTRICAL WILL NOT SHUT OFF AFTER PUTTING IN PARK. CAR CAN BE PUT INTO GEAR AFTER BEING PUT INTO PARK. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE TO THE DEALER, AND WAS TOLD TO CALL AND MAKE FORMAL COMPLAINT TO MAZDA. THEY WILL.NOT HELP. THIS IS A SERIOUS ISSUE, BATTERY COULD DIE, LEAVING PERSON STRANDED OR CAR COULD ROLL AWAY.

WHEN PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON, THE IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF. ALTHOUGH THE SHIFT LEVER IS IN 'P' POSITION AND THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF NORMALLY, THE IGNITION STAYS ON.

VEHICLE WOULD NOT SHUT OFF EVEN WHEN IN PARK. DEFECTIVE SHIFTER MODULE PART NUMBER KD31-46-100F.

WHEN TURNING OFF MY CAR WITH PUSH BUTTON STARTER, IT WILL NOT TURN OFF THE RADIO SCREEN AND RADIO ON DASH. IT TAKES MANY TIMES OF STARTING AND TURNING CAR OFF. THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS IN HAVING IT STAY ON IF YOU ARE NOT AWARE THIS IS HAPPENING.

I AM HAVING ISSUES WITH TURNING THE CAR OFF. FREQUENTLY, I WILL PARK THE CAR, ENSURE THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IS ENGAGED IN "PARK", PUT MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND HIT THE OFF BUTTON (KEYLESS). THE ACCESSORY POWER WILL REMAIN ON AND THE CAR WILL ALERT ME THAT THE VEHICLE IS STILL "ON", EVEN THOUGH EVERYTHING SHOULD BE OFF. I WILL HAVE TO TRY MULTIPLE TIMES TO TURN THE CAR ON AND OFF, EVEN ENGAGING IN REVERSE, DRIVE, ETC AND THEN TRYING TO TURN OFF BEFORE IT FINALLY TURNS OFF FULLY. LOOKING FOR MORE INFORMATION ONLINE, I FOUND THERE ARE MANY OTHER CX-5 OWNERS WHO ARE HAVING THIS ISSUE.

TRANSMISSION SAFETY SWITCH WHICH ALLOWS RECOGNIZES THE GEAR SELECTOR SWITCH IS IN THE P POSITION IS FAULTY/DEFECTIVE. DEFECTIVE SWITCH IS A SAFETY CONCERN AS WILL NOT ALLOW VEHICLES TO COMPLETELY TURN OFF. MAZDA IS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM AND HAS ISSUED A MAINTENANCE BULLETIN ON MANY AFFECTED 2013 AND 2014 MODEL VEHICLES. THIS STARTED HAPPENING RANDOMLY 3 YEARS AGO, BUT HAS PROGRESSED TO 3-4 TIMES PER WEEK.

MY CAR HAS 58,283 MILES AND I NEED A NEW DIFFERENTIAL. I HAVE NEVER EVEN HAD A DIFFERNTIAL REPLACED ON ANY OF MY PRIOR CARS. I HAVE HAD CARS WITH OVER 200,000 MILES. THIS IS A COSTLY FIX AND I FEEL IT SHOULD NOT HAPPEN TO A CAR AT THIS MILEAGE. I BOUGHT THE CAR USED AT ABOUT 23,000 MILES.

WHEN TURNING THE CAR OFF, THE CAR DOESN'T TURN OFF ALL THE WAY AND DRAINS THE BATTERY. . I HAD TO BUY A NEW BATTERY AND ENDED UP GETTING HAVING TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED IN. MAZDA ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN FOR THIS IN 2015 (FOR 2013 MODELS) AND UPDATED IN 2016 TO INCLUDE 2014 MODELS: HTTP://EP.YIMG.COM/TY/CDN/YHST-24809172479195/KDY0-46-040.PDF. THE WARNING LIGHTS ALL COME ONE WHILE YOU ARE DRIVING. VERY SCARY

TAKATA RECALL RECALL FROM NEW

THE ENGINE WAS IN DRIVE AND THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS FULLY DEPRESSED. THE CAR WAS STOPPED FOR AT LEAST 5 SECONDS- AT WHICH POINT THE ENGINE STARTS TO REV, LOUD CLUNK FROM BEHIND AND THE CAR JUMPS FORWARD AT LEAST 5 FEET. FEELS AS THOUGH WAS HIT FROM BEHIND. IN ADDITION, THE CAR SUDDENLY STARTS TO REV UP TO 4000-5000 RPM WHILE AT STOP AND WHILE DRIVING LOCALLY (NOT HIGHWAY DRIVING)

VEHICLE WON'T SHUT COMPLETELY OFF. INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM REMAINS ON, DOORS WON'T LOCK AND KEY FOBS WON'T WORK. ALL AFTER PRESSING THE START BUTTON IN ORDER TO SHUT IT OFF.

WHEN PLACING THE SHIFTER IN PARK AND TURNING THE CAR OFF, THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF BUT NOT THE ELECTRONICS. WHEN RETURNING TO THE CAR, IT MAY NOT START DUE TO DRAINED BATTERY. ON LINE REPORTS SHOW MANY MAZDAS HAVE THIS PROBLEM.

THE BLUETOOTH PANDORA USB AUX CD DOES NOT LIGHT UP ON THE STEREO SCREEN EVERYTHING ELSE WORK EXCEPT ALL THAT

THERE IS A FAULTY SENSOR ISSUE WITH MAZDA CX-5 CIRCA 2014 WHERE IT DOESN'T REGISTER THE CAR IS IN PARK AND THUS THE ELECTRONIC ON/OFF WON'T TURN THE CAR OFF PROPERLY. IT TURNS THE ENGINE OFF BUT LEAVES THE REST OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ON AND CAN LEAD TO MANY DEAD BATTERY SITUATIONS. HERE ARE SEVERAL FORUMS DETAILING THE SITUATION: HTTPS://WWW.CARCOMPLAINTS.COM/MAZDA/CX-5/2014/ELECTRICAL/WILL_NOT_COMPLETELY_SHUT_DOWN.SHTML HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T49115_DS799849 THIS CAN LEAD TO UNSAFE CONDITIONS STRANDING PEOPLE WITH A DEAD CAR THROUGH A FAULTY PART. IMAGINE, SOMEONE NEEDING TO ESCAPE THE CALIFORNIA WILDFIRE OR EVACUATE ONLY TO BE BLOCKED BY THIS ISSUE.

IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF WHEN PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON. MINE HAS BEEN DOING THIS FOR ABOUT A YEAR PERIODICALLY. IT WAS CORRECTED BY PLACING IT IN PARK WITH SLIGHT ADDED FORCE. IT'S NOW ESCALATED TO THE POINT WHERE THE FORCE IS BECOMING EXCESSIVE AND MAY DAMAGE OTHER COMPONENTS. THE PROBLEM AND FIX IS LISTED HERE. HTTPS://MAZDA.OEMDTC.COM/665/IGNITION-DOES-NOT-TURN-OFF-WHEN-PRESSING-STARTSTOP-BUTTON-2013-2014-MAZDA IF YOU SEARCH IN GOOGLE '2014 MAZDA CX-5 IGNITION STAYS ON' YOU'LL SEE IT'S A COMMON ISSUE. WHEN PART KDY0-46-040 IS MALFUNCTIONING YOU ARE UNABLE TO SECURE YOUR CAR. THE DOORS WILL NOT LOCK, THE ALARM WILL NOT ARM AND THE BATTERY CONTINUES TO DRAIN IF YOU DO NOT MANUALLY TURN OFF THE RADIO.

THE SHIFTER DOESN'T STAY IN PARK. THE CAR DOES NOT SHUT OFF WHEN YOU PUSH THE BUTTON. YOU HAVE TO WIGGLE THE GEARSHIFT, TAKE IT IN AND OUT OF PARK, AND PUSH THE BUTTON MULTIPLE TIMES BEFORE IT WILL WORK AND SHUT THE CAR OFF. TOOK IT TO DEALERSHIP 2/19/2019 AND THE KDYO-46-040 SWITCH HAD TO BE REPLACED.

THE CAR ACCESSORIES STAY ON AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF. THIS MAKES THE CAR BATTERY RUN DOWN. ALSO LEAVES THE CAR IN A MODE WHERE SOMEONE COULD POSSIBLY STEAL IT EASIER. ONCE THIS STARTED HAPPENING IT RANDOMLY OCCURS DAILY.

MY WIFE COMPLAINED ABOUT HOW SHE TRIED TO ACCELERATE AND IT DIDN'T WORK ONE RANDOM TIME WHILE SHE WAS DRIVING. I TOOK IT AROUND THE NEIGHBORHOOD TO TEST IT OUT. I WASN'T EVEN OUT OF MY BLOCK BEFORE THE INCIDENT HAPPENED. I WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF A TURN AND EVERYTHING JUST STOPPED. I WAS GOING LESS THAN 10 MPH WHEN IT HAPPENED. SEVERAL LIGHTS CAME ON ON THE DASHBOARD. THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT, THE AT LIGHT, THE TPMS LIGHT, AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. SOMETHING BAD HAPPENED AND THIS COULD HAVE KILLED SOMEONE HAD IT HAPPENED ON THE HIGHWAY. I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND ON AND NOW ONLY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE IT AGAIN AT THAT POINT.

VEHICLE SOMETIMES DOES NOT COMPLETELY SHUT-OFF WHEN SHIFTING INTO "PARK" AND PRESSING 'START/OFF' BUTTON. ACCESSORY FUNCTIONS REMAIN 'ON'. WARNING LIGHT STATES "PLEASE SHIFT INTO 'PARK'". SOMETIMES REQUIRES MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS SHIFTING OUT OF AND BACK INTO 'PARK' BEFORE ALL SYSTEMS SHUTDOWN WHEN PRESSING 'START/OFF' BUTTON. BASED ON NUMEROUS OTHER DRIVERS HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES, APPEARS TO BE PROBLEM WITH THE SHIFTER SWITCH (PART# KDY046040). VERY IRRITATING HAVING TO DEAL WITH THIS PROBLEM...MAZDA NEEDS TO DO RECALL ON THIS, IMO!

REPLACED BATTERY JANUARY 29, 2019. BATTERY NOT HOLDING A CHARGE IT GOES COMPLETELY DEAD AFTER NOT DRIVING ONE DAY. THERE IS NO OBVIOUS CAUSE AS TO WHY THE BATTERY IS DRAINED DEAD NO LIGHTS ON NO DASH LIGHTS NO NOTHING INDICATING THAT THE BATTERY SHOULD GO DEAD . UPON CHECKING THE INTERNET THERE HAVE BEEN MANY OTHER INSTANCES WHERE THIS PROBLEM HAS ALSO HAPPENED WITH THIS YEAR MAKE AND MODEL. PROBLEM MAY LIE WITHIN THE MAZDA ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ITSELF AND HARD FOR THE MANUFACTURE DEALER OR CAR OWNER TO IDENTIFY .

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE SLIPPED INTO NEUTRAL AND STOPPED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO INDEPENDENCE MAZDA (704-563-1510, LOCATED AT 6735 E INDEPENDENCE BLVD, CHARLOTTE, NC 28212) TO BE DIAGNOSED, BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE VIA EMAIL. THE MANUFACTURER ATTEMPTED, BUT FAILED TO REACH THE CONTACT. THE CONTACT PLANNED TO CALL THE MANUFACTURER BACK. THE FAILURE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 49,500.

THE CAR SLIPS GEARS - GOING FROM DRIVE TO NEUTRAL INSTANTANEOUSLY WITHOUT WARNING. THIS HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR IS IN MOTION AND IN DRIVE. THE INDICATOR LIGHT SAYS 'D' BUT THE CAR'S GEAR IS IN NEUTRAL. THIS HAS HAPPENED 3 TIMES ON STREETS AT APPROX 40MPH AFTER MAKING A 3 HOUR HWY TRIP.

WHEN THE IGNITION BUTTON IS PRESSED TO SHUT THE CAR OFF IT STOPS THE ENGINE BUT THE RADIO STAYS ON AND THE DOORS CANNOT BE LOCKED. THE SHIFTER IS IN PARK WHEN THIS OCCURS. FORCED TO LEAVE VEHICLE UNLOCKED AND "ON". THIS HAPPENS 3-4 TIMES PER WEEK.

IF ANYONE HAS EXPERIENCED THE GEAR SHIFTER ISSUE WITH THEIR 2014 MAZDA CX-5, PLEASE CALL MAZDA DIRECTLY AND MAKE A COMPLAINT. THE VEHICLE DOES NOT POWER OFF WHEN YOU PUT IT IN PARK. THE CAR THINKS IT IS STILL IN DRIVE, THEREFORE ACCESSORY POWER STAYS ON AND THUS CAUSING THE BATTERY TO DIE WHEN YOU DON'T REALIZE THAT THE CAR WAS STILL IN THE WHOLE TIME. IF ENOUGH PEOPLE REACT/MAKE COMPLAINTS THEN MAYBE WE CAN GET THIS ISSUE IN FOR A RECALL. IF YOU'VE ALREADY PAID FOR IT TO BE FIXED OUT OF POCKET THEN YOU COULD GET REIMBURSED IF IT DOES GET RECALLED. SO PLEASE CALL. THIS IS THE MAZDA CUSTOMER SERVICE NUMBER. 800-222-5500. NO ONE SHOULD HAVE TO PAY FOR AN ISSUE THAT ISNT THEIR FAULT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. AFTER THE CONTACT SHIFTED INTO THE DRIVE POSITION, THE VEHICLE ROLLED BACKWARDS AND WOULD NOT DRIVE FORWARD. ALSO, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT SHUT OFF WHEN THE ENGINE POWER BUTTON WAS PRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE LOCAL DEALER (KOEPPEL MAZDA, 7712 NORTHERN BLVD, QUEENS, NY) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SHIFTER WAS FAULTY. THE SHIFTER WAS REPLACED, BUT THE CONTACT STILL EXPERIENCED FAILURES WITH THE VEHICLE POWERING OFF. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 45,762. *DT*JB

VEHICLE WAS PUT INTO DRIVE & IT WOULD NOT MOVE FORWARD 03/20/2018 AND IT ROLLED BACKWARDS. ALSO UNABLE TO SHUT VEHICLE OFF ONCE IT IS PARKED. CONTINUOUS ISSUES TO TURN THE VEHICLE OFF ONCE IT IS PARKED. LIGHTS STAYS ON THE DASHBOARD & RADIO CONTINUE TO PLAY MUSIC. I HAVE BEEN HAVING ISSUES FOR TWO YEARS NOW TURNING THE VEHICLE OFF AND MAZDA IS NOW TELLING ME THAT IT IS BECAUSE OF MY PHONE CHARGER IS WRAPPED AROUND THE GEAR STICK WHY IT WILL NOT GO INTO PARK AND THE ISSUE IS THE VEHICLE CONTINUOUSLY HAVING ISSUES TO TURNING OFF.. I HAVE A VIDEO RECORDING OF THE CHARGER WRAPPED AROUND THE GEAR STICK AND THE VEHICLE PUT INTO PARK WITH NO ISSUES. I ALSO BOUGHT THE PHONE CHARGER LONG AFTER THIS ISSUE STARTED. THEY CHANGED THE SHIFTER 03/2018 BECAUSE IT WAS NO GOOD AND THEY CHARGED ME FOR AN ITEM THEY ARE AWARE OF HAS ISSUES. I HAD TO GOOGLE HOW TO TURN MY VEHICLE OFF 11/27/2018.

PRESSING THE PUSH-START BUTTON DOES NOT SHUT OFF VEHICLE. CAR IS IN PARK. HAVE HAD TO WALK AWAY WITH CAR STILL "ON", DRAINING THE BATTERY.

WHEN THE CAR IS STATIONARY AND IN PARK THE ENGINE DOESN'T COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN, THE RADIO ANDDASH LIGHTS STAY ON. ALSO THE DOORS DO NOT LOCK BECAUSE THE CAR WILL BEEP CONSISTENTLYAND I FEAR THE BATTERY MAY DIE. I HAVE TO MOVE THE CAR IN AND OUT OF PARK AND THEN MOVE THE GEAR SHIFT LEFT AND RIGHT QUICKLY MULTIPLE TIMES AND THEN MAYBE IT WILL CUT OFFCOMPLETELY. SOMETIMES IT TAKES ME UP TO 10 MINUTES AND 8-10 TRIES OF MOVING MY CAR OUT OF PARK AND BACK TO PARK AND MOVE THE GEAR SHIFT LEFT AND RIGHT TO GET MY CAR TO SHUT OFF COMPLETELY. I KNOW THE PROBLEM IS THE GEAR SHIFTER. THERE IS A SENSOR THAT TELLS IT WHEN IT'S IN PARK, AND IN MY CAR IT STOPPED WORKING. THERE SHOULD HAVE BEEN A RE-CALL BECAUSE ACCORDING TO SEVERAL FORUMS THERE HAVE BEEN MANY COMPLAINTS REGARDING THIS SPECIFIC ISSUE WITH THIS MAZDA CX-5 MAKE AND MODEL.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED, THE STEERING WHEEL VIBRATED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO KUHN MAZDA (813-872-4841, LOCATED AT 3900 W KENNEDY BLVD, TAMPA, FL 33609), BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO THE DEALER. THE FAILURE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 70,000. *TT

WILL NOT SHUT DOWN WHEN IGNITION IS SHUT OFF HAVE TO MAKE SEVERAL ATTEMPS AT REATARTING TO SHUT DOWN AND REMOTE DOES NOT REACT PROPPERLY IN OPENING AND CLOSING ON GOING KNOW FOR 6 MONTHS TODAYS DATE 10-04-18 CAR IS PARKED

I HEAR SQUEAKING AT MY REAR DRIVER'S TIRE AS IF THE STRUT OR SUSPENSION IS IMPAIRED...I HEAR IT MOST PROFOUNDLY WHEN IT IS DAMP OR RAINY OUTSIDE WHILE IN MOTION. THIS HAS BEEN ONGOING SINCE FEBRUARY THIS YEAR. TODAY, 9/29 I TOOK IT TO MY HOME DEALERSHIP HILEY MAZDA IN HURST, TX...THEY MENTIONED SOMETHING ABOUT A BUSH WITHIN THE STRUTS THAT CAN GET LOOSE AND JUST NEEDS TIGHTENING. BUT, THEY WOULD HAVE TO ACCESS IT STARTING AT $120.00...WHICH I DIDN'T HAVE AS A FULLTIME STUDENT AND WORKING FULLTIME. YET, AT THE SAME TIME WHEN IT SQUEAKS, AS METAL RUBBING AGAINST METAL...IT VIBRATES AT STEERING AS IF I MAY LOOSE CONTROL OF MY VEHICLE. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE CHECK INTO THIS COMPLAINT IF THIS SHOULD COINCIDE WITH OTHER VEHICLES OF THE SAME ONLINE WITH NHTSA. BECAUSE, I HAD PURCHASED MY VEHICLE IN LATE APRIL 2016, I THOUGHT THAT MY COMPLAINT FELL IN LINE WITH RECALL ID 243197 IN 05/10/2016. WAS MY VEHICLE CALLED IN FOR THIS RECALL PRIOR TO MY PURCHASE? BECAUSE THE ONLY RECALL I AM COGNIZANT OF ACTING UPON IS THE LIFTGATE STAY DAMPER CONCERN STATUS DATE 07-22-2017. CAN YOU PLEASE INVESTIGATE FURTHER FOR ME? THANK YOU IN ADVANCE. RESPECTFULLY.

VEHICLE WILL NOT SHUT OFF COMPLETELY WHEN THE START/OFF BUTTON IS PUSHED. ACCESSORIES STAY ON. I SEE OTHER COMPLAINTS REGARDING THIS SAME PROBLEM TO THE SHIFT SWITCH PART #KDY0-46-040. HAVE TO JIGGLE SHIFTER 10 TO 15 TIMES TO GET IT TO SHUT OFF.

WHEN POWERING OFF THE CAR USING THE PUSH IGNITION, THE ELECTRONICS STAY ON

VEHICLE WILL NOT SHUT OFF COMPLETELY WHEN THE START/OFF BUTTON IS PUSHED. ACCESSORIES STAY ON. I SEE OTHER COMPLAINTS REGARDING THIS SAME PROBLEM TO THE SHIFT SWITCH PART #KDY0-46-040. HAVE TO JIGGLE SHIFTER 10 TO 15 TIMES TO GET IT TO SHUT OFF.

MY MAZDA WILL NOT TURN OFF WHEN I PUT IT IN PARK. THE ENGINE STOPS BUT ALL MY OTHER CONTROLS ARE ON. SOMETIMES IT TAKES ME 30-40 MINUTES TO GET IT TO COMPLETELY SHUT OFF.

TAKATA RECALL. FOR THE PAST 2 MONTHS MY 2014 MAZDA CX-5 WILL NOT SHUT COMPLETELY OFF AFTER PLACING THE CAR IN PARK. NOW WHAT WAS ONCE A MONTH OR WEEK IS NOW SEVERAL TIMES A DAY. THE RADIO, LIGHTS, AND BEEPING WILL STAY ON AS IF THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN PUT INTO PARK. ITS PARKED AND NOT MOVING BUT EVERYTHING STAYS ON. I WILL HAVE TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON PUT IT IN DRIVE TO PARK AND REVERSE TO PARK SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE THE CAR WILL ACKNOWLEDGE PARKED.

MAZDA ISSUED RECALL ON REAR HATCH STRUT. MAZDA CLAIMS TO HAVE SWITCHED OUT STRUT ON RECALL SERVICE. POSSIBLE THEY DID NOT REPLACE DEFECT OR REPLACED WITH ANOTHER DEFECTED STRUT. STRUT FAILED WHILE UNLOADING GROCERIES, 18 MONTHS POST REPAIR, ALMOST SERIOUSLY INJURING MY WIFE. REQUEST A PROPER FIX, WAS TOLD THEY OFFER ONLY A 12 MONTH WARRANTY., BUT THAT IF THE VEHICLLE WAS BROUGHT TO DELEARSHIP THEY WOULD FIX FREE OF CHARGE. UPON ARRIVING FOR REPAIR WAS TOLD WE WOULD BE CHARGED. WHAT KIND OF LONG TERM RECALL FIX HAS ONLY A YEAR WARRANTY? VERY QUESTIONABLE BUSINESS PRACTICE IN INITIAL REPAIR AND DISHONEST ESTIMATES.

VEHICLE WILL NOT SHUT OFF COMPLETELY WHEN PLACED INTO PARK POSITION (AN ISSUE WITH THE TRANSMISSION SENSOR IN THE GEARBOX ACCORDING TO ONLINE FORUMS). PROBLEM IS WHEN VEHICLE IS STATIONARY. THIS LEADS TO THE BATTERY BEING DRAINED AND NEEDING TO BE JUMPED. FORUMS WITH HUNDREDS OF SIMILAR STORIES WHERE THEIR VEHICLE WILL NOT PROPERLY SHUT OFF HAVE REVEALED THAT THERE IS A PART NUMBER FOR THE DEFECTIVE SWITCH/SENSOR (KDY0-46-040). MAZDA NEEDS TO DO THE RIGHT THING AND REPAIR THIS DEFECTIVE PART. FOR EXAMPLE, NO ONE SHOULD HAVE THEIR CAR PARKED VIA VALET AND DISCOVER THAT THEIR VEHICLE IS DEAD WHEN THEY RETURN TO IT (ESPECIALLY WHEN IT IS NO FAULT TO THE VALET DRIVER). I HAVE BEEN DEALING WITH THIS ISSUE FOR OVER A YEAR NOW, ENOUGH IS ENOUGH.

WENT IN FOR A SERVICE AROUND 55,000 MILES AND WAS TOLD THAT NEW REAR BRAKES WERE NEEDED. GOT A SECOND OPINION AND WAS TOLD THAT THEY COULD GO A LITTLE LONGER. STARTED HEARING SQUEAKING, TOOK THEM BACK TO THE MECHANIC WHO SAID THEY NEEDED REPLACING. REPLACED AT 59,000 MILES. WENT IN TODAY 7/26/18 AND WAS TOLD MY REAR BRAKES WERE AT 4% AND WOULD NEED REPLACING BY MY NEXT VISIT. THIS WOULD MEAN 2 REAR BRAKE REPLACEMENTS WITHIN 10,000 MILES. MY FRONT BRAKES ARE STILL FINE. I SEE MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS FOR THE CX 5, THERE A SEVERAL TSBS OUT. CALLED MAZDA WHO SAID THEY WEREN'T AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM AND THAT BRAKES ARE CONSIDERED A NORMAL PART OF WEAR AND TEAR. MY SECOND ISSUES IS THAT WHEN I PUT MY CAR IN PARK AND ATTEMPT TO SHUT IF OFF BUT IT WILL NOT POWER OFF. THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN EVERY TIME, BUT PROBABLY EVERY 4TH OR 5TH TIME. I READ ONLINE THAT IT'S A TRANSMISSION SENSOR ISSUE AND THAT THE TRANSMISSION SENSOR NEEDS REPLACING. BOTH OF THESE ISSUES ARE VERY PREVALENT AND I'M HOPING THERE CAN BE A RECALL ON BOTH.

TAKATA RECALL: THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH ACCELERATION AND THE CAR NOT TURNING COMPLETELY OFF ONCE THE PUSH START/STOP BUTTON IS PRESSED. DURING ACCELERATION THE GEARS SEEM LIKE THEY GET STUCK AND THE CAR DOES NOT ACCELERATE PROPERLY AND TO TURN THE CAR OFF COMPLETELY I WILL USUALLY HAVE TO TURN THE ENGINE BACK ON COMPLETELY, SHIFT IN REVERSE OR DRIVE THEN BACK TO PARK AND TURN OFF. SOMETIMES REPEATING THE PROCESS MULTIPLE TIMES UNTIL THE CAR TURNS OFF COMPLETELY. I FIRST NOTICED THIS PROBLEM A FEW MONTHS AGO AND HAS PROGRESSIVELY BECOME MORE FREQUENT IN OCCURRENCES.

WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED, WITH MY FOOT ON THE BREAK AND THE SHIFT LEVER IN "P" POSITION PRESSING START/STOP BUTTON THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF BUT THE IGNITION REMAINS ON. THIS HAS CAUSED MY BATTERY TO DIE ON TWO DIFFERENT OCCASION DUE TO THIS PROBLEM.

DUE TO A FAULTY AT POSITION SWITCH (PART #KDY0-46-040) IN THE GEARSHIFT, MY VEHICLE WILL NOT RELIABLY FULLY TURN OFF. THE ISSUE CAUSES THE VEHICLE TO REMAIN IN ACCESSORY MODE UNTIL I RESTART THE ENGINE AND ATTEMPT TO TURN THE VEHICLE OFF A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF TIMES. THIS IS A DANGER TO DRIVERS SINCE IT COULD LEAVE THEM STRANDED WITH NO BATTERY CHARGE IF THEY MUST RESTART THEIR VEHICLE OVER AND OVER.

WHEN PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON, THE IGNITION OFTEN WILL NOT TURN OFF. ALTHOUGH THE SHIFT LEVER IS IN 'P' POSITION AND THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF NORMALLY, THE IGNITION WILL STAY ON (IN ACCESSORY MODE).

AFTER RECALL AND TAKING IN TO REPAIR ON DANGER OF HATCHBACK CLOSING PREMATURELY, I NOW HAVE A LEAK IN THE HATCHBACK AFTER HARD RAIN. WAS THIS REPAIR THE CAUSE OF LEAK OR IS THIS SOMETHING ELSE THAT SHOULD BE RECALLED? WATER POURS OUT OF BOTTOM SIDES OF BACK DOOR WHEN OPENED.

AFTER PUTTING MY 2014 MAZDA CX-5 TOURING AT IN PARKING MODE/GEAR AND PRESSING START/STOP ENGINE BUTTON, IT DOES NOT SHUTOFF ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS/ACCESSORIES. ENGINE SHUTS OFF, BUT ALL ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS/ACCESSORIES STAYS ON THAT RESULTS IN DRAINING THE BATTERY. CAR DOES NOT REGISTER THAT IT'S IN PARK MODE/GEAR. HENCE CAR CAN NOT BE LOCKED WHEN STEPPING AWAY FROM CAR. ITS THE SAFETY ISSUE IF CAR IS NOT READING THAT ITS FULLY PARKED AND IT MAY START ROLLING/MOVING ON ITS OWN ON SLOPE SURFACE. MAZDA ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN FOR THIS ISSUE BUT DOES NOT WANT TO DO RECALL ON IT. FOLLOWING IS FROM MAZDA SERVICE BULLETIN: "WHEN PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON, THE IGNITION MAY NOT TURN OFF ON SOME VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A GATE- TYPE AT SHIFTER. ALTHOUGH THE SHIFT LEVER IS IN 'P' POSITION AND THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF NORMALLY, THE IGNITION MAY STAY ON (IN ACCESSORY MODE). THIS CONCERN MAY BE CAUSED BY A WORN SWITCH UNIT. TO ELIMINATE THIS CONCERN, THE SWITCH UNIT MATERIAL HAS BEEN CHANGED TO IMPROVE WEAR RESISTANCE. MODIFIED SWITCH UNITS HAVE BEEN ESTABLISHED AS NEW SERVICE PARTS." I DID A LOT OF RESEARCH ONLINE AND FOUND MANY OWNERS OF MAZDA CX-5 AND MAZDA 6 HAVING THE SAME ISSUE BY THEIR FAULTY PART(AT SHIFTER SWITCH). SHIFT GEAR SWITCH SHOULD NOT FAIL WITH LESS THAN 35000 MILES. MAZDA SHOULD OWN THIS ISSUE AND DO A RECALL ON ALL MAZDA SWITCHES. CONSUMERS DON'T HAVE TO SUFFER BECAUSE OF THEIR MISTAKES/FAULTS. FAULTY PART NUMBER: KDY0-46-040

MANY TIMES WHEN PUSHING THE IGNITION BUTTON TO TURN THE VEHICLE OFF IT DOES NOT COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND LEAVES THE RADIO AND OTHER ACCESSORIES ON. THIS HAS LED TO THE BATTERY RUNNING DOWN ON 2 OCCASIONS. THIS IS AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM THAT DOES NOT HAPPEN EVERY TIME I SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF. BUT WHEN IT DOES HAPPEN I MAY HAVE TO RESTART AND SHUT OFF THE VEHICLE MULTIPLE TIMES TO GET IT TO FULLY SHUT DOWN THE VEHICLE AND ACCESSORIES. MANY PEOPLE WITH THE SAME VEHICLE ARE EXPERIENCING THIS PROBLEM BASED ON RESEARCH I HAVE DONE. THIS HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR 3-4 MONTHS

WHEN I PUSH THE BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE CAR THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF BUT THE RADIO AND EVERYTHING INSIDE THE CAR DOESN'T TURN OFF. MY CAR'S BATTERY HAS DIED BECAUSE OF IT NOT TURNING OFF. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP THEY KNEW EXACTLY WHAT WAS WRONG. THEY SAID IT WAS A COMMON PROBLEM IN THE CX5. MY CAR'S BATTERY HAS BEEN DEAD SEVERAL TIMES BECAUSE OF THIS ISSUE.

WHEN ATTEMPTING TO TURN ENGINE OFF, A WARNING LIGHT APPEARS THAT SHIFTER MUST BE PLACED IN "PARK" BEFORE TURNING OFF ENGINE. REPEATED ATTEMPTS DO NOT WORK. MANY OWNERS HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEM. IT IS A DEFECTIVE PARKING SENSOR , PART KDY0-46-040, BUT MAZDA WILL NOT ISSUE RECALL AT THIS TIME AND WANTS TO CHARGE SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS TO REPLACE THE $46 PART.

FOR THE LAST FEW WEEKS THE VEHICLE WILL NOT SHUT OFF COMPLETELY. I HAVE TO TURN THE CAR ON AND OFF SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE IT WORKS. DUE TO THIS ISSUE I CANNOT LOCK THE VEHICLE AND IT HAD DRAINED THE BATTERY.

IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF WHEN PRESSING START / STOP BUTTON

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. AFTER SWITCHING THE SHIFTER TO THE PARK POSITION, TURNING THE ENGINE OFF, AND REMOVING THE IGNITION KEY, THE RADIO WOULD REMAIN ACTIVATED. ALSO, AN ERRONEOUS AUDIBLE ALARM WAS ACTIVATED, WHICH WARNED THE CONTACT THAT THE IGNITION KEY WAS NOT REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH WAS FAULTY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE LOCAL DEALER (JAKE SWEENEY MAZDA WEST IN CINCINNATI, OH) WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, BUT THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 53,000.

KEYLESS IGNITION SYSTEM WILL NOT SHUT OFF WITH KEY FOB OR START/STOP BUTTON. THE CAR SHUTS OFF, BUT THE ACCESSORY STAYS ON CAUSING THE BATTERY TO DRAIN AND DIE. THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AS IT IS BEING TURNED OFF. SEARCHING ONLINE MANY MAZDA OWNERS EXPRESS THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MAZDA DOING NOTHING. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD BE RECALLED.

THE MOTOR ON THE DRIVER SEAT IS BROKEN AND ALLOWS ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE SEAT TO MOVE FORWARD AND THE CAR DOESN'T FULLY TURN OFF WHEN PLACED IN PARK BECAUSE OF A GEAR SHIFT ISSUE.

A FEW WEEKS AGO MY KEYLESS SYSTEM BEGAN MALFUNCTIONING. WHEN I PUSH THE CAR OFF BUTTON AND GO TO GET OUT OF CAR A WARNING BEEP GETS MY ATTENTION THAT THE DASH IS STILL ON. THE ONLY WAY I HAVE FOUND TO GET EVERYTHING TO SHUT OFF COMPLETELY IS TO RESTART THE CAR AND PUT IT IN REVERSE OR DRIVE AND I MAY HAVE TO DO THIS SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE EVERYTHING SHUTS DOWN.

WHEN I TURN OFF THE CAR- IT SAYS - SHIFT TO P- IT IS ALREADY IN PARK AND THE VEHICLE WILL NOT TURN OFF- THE AUXILIARY STAYS ON- FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED, I DIDN'T REALIZE IT AND CAME OUT TO A DEAD BATTERY. NOW IT HAPPENS ALL THE TIME AND I HAVE TO KEEP STARTING AND STOPPING THE CAR AND JIGGLING THE SHIFTER TO GET IT TO TURN OFF. GOOGLED THE ISSUE AND IT IS A DEFECTIVE SHIFTER SWITCH THAT MAZDA WILL NOT RECALL

RECENTLY ENCOUNTERED A PROBLEM WITH "SET TO P TO TURN OFF POWER". MY 2014 CX-5, WOULD NOT TOTALLY TURN OFF THE IGNITION. AUXILIARY POWER REMAINED ON.SO RADIO ETC. STAYED ON. KDY0-46-040 PARIS1 POSTED ONE TSB WHICH IS RELATED TO THE INFERIOR "SWITCH UNIT", P/N: KDY0-46-040, IN GEAR SHIFT ASSEMBLY. BUT LIKE MADAR AND PARIS1, I ALSO REMEMBER THERE'S ANOTHER PUSH-BUTTON ENGINE START/STOP SWITCH TSB FOR SIMILAR ISSUES BUT CAN'T FIND IT RIGHT NOW. YOUR DEALER SEEMS TO FOLLOW THE TSB WITH INFERIOR "SWITCH UNIT" IN GEAR SHIFT ASSEMBLY, SO DO PRINT THE TSB OUT AND HOPE FOR THE BEST AS I BELIEVE MAZDA CANADA SHOULD TAKE CARE OF THE BILL AS MAZDA KNOWINGLY PUT A BAD PART IN THERE. DON'T LET THEM REPLACE THE SELECT LEVEL ASSEMBLY KD31-46-100D、GHR5-46-100C LIKE MENTIONED IN THE TSB THAT'D BE A WASTE OF MONEY.

WHEN PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON, MY IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF ALTHOUGH THE SHIFTER IS IN THE "P" POSITION AND THE ENGINE SHITS OFF NORMALLY. IF I TURN THE ENGINE BACK ON, JIGGLE THE SHIFTER, AND PUSH THE STOP BUTTON AGAIN, IT IS USUALLY SUCCESSFUL. IT APPEARS THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH A WORN SWITCH UNIT. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD AND SOMETHING MUST BE DONE. IT IS AN ONGOING CONCERN, NOT AN ISOLATED INCIDENT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ENGAGE IN PARK AND WAS UNABLE TO BE TURNED OFF. THE DEALER (BERGLUND MAZDA, 834 E MAIN ST, SALEM, VA 24153 WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED THE CONTACT TO SCHEDULE A DIAGNOSTIC APPOINTMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND INFORMED THE CONTACT TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 46,000.

VEHICLE WILL NOT TURN OFF COMPLETELY AS IT SHOULD. I AM THE FIRST OWNER AND PROBLEM HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR ABOUT A MONTH. ENGINE WILL SHUT OFF BUT ELECTRONICS INSIDE OF THE VEHICLE WILL STAY ON. I CHECKED ONLINE TO SEE WHAT IT COULD BE BUT THERE IS NO ANSWER VARIOUS OTHER OWNERS HAVE THE SAME ISSUE.

WHEN I PUT MY CAR IN PARK, AND TRY TO TURN OFF THE CAR, THE BATTERY STILL STAYS ON (RADIO, ETC). I'VE HAD MY CAR'S SELECTOR SWITCH REPLACED AT A COST TO ME ($300) AFTER THE DEALER SAID THAT WAS THE PROBLEM. I AM NOW HAVING THE PROBLEM AGAIN. I AM A MOM WITH 2 LITTLE KIDS AND I AM PETRIFIED OF BEING STUCK IN THIS CAR THAT WON'T TURN OFF. I HAVE A VIDEO OF THE CAR ACTING IN THIS ACTION BUT AM UNABLE TO ATTACH IT IN THIS FORUM. I WOULD BE HAPPY TO EMAIL IT.

WHEN PLACED IN PARK AND TURNED OFF, IT'S NOT ALL THE WAY OFF. RADIO AND ACCESSORIES ARE STILL ON. ONLY WAY I'VE FOUND TO FIX IS TO RE START IT, TAKE IT OUT OF PARK, THEN PUT IT BACK IN PARK AND TURN IT OFF AGAIN. FOUNDS LOTS OF OTHER POSTS ABOUT THIS AT HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T49115_DS799849. BEEN HAPPENING SEVERAL TIMES A WEEK FOR ABOUT 2 MONTHS. CALLED MAZDA AND THEY SAY THEY DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT IT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ENGINE FAILED TO TURN OFF WHEN THE KEYLESS IGNITION BUTTON WAS DEPRESSED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BUTTON HAD TO BE DEPRESSED SEVERAL TIMES UNTIL THE ENGINE TURNED OFF. THE INSTRUMENT PANEL GAUGES WOULD STILL FUNCTION AND THE GREEN IGNITION LIGHT REMAINED ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED AND WAS SCHEDULED FOR MAINTENANCE AT RAY BRANDT MAZDA (1884 WESTBANK EXPY, HARVEY, LA 70058, (504) 372-6131). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

THE CAR WILL NOT COMPLETELY SHUT OFF WHEN IT IS SET TO PARK AND THE PUSH BUTTON IS PUSHED FOR SHUT OFF.THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS STAY ON AND I HAVE TO MOVE THE SHIFTER TO DRIVE THEN PARK AGAIN ABOUT 5 TIMES BEFORE IT ACTUALLY SHUTS DOWN.

AFTER PARKED, WHEN TURNING THE CAR OFF WITH THE PUSH BUTTON, THE ENGINE WILL SHUT OFF, BUT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WILL REMAIN ON (INCLUDING THE RADIO AND THE DASHBOARD). IF I TRY TO OPEN THE DOOR, THE CAR WILL BEEP AT ME, AND IF I LEAVE IT LIKE THIS, THE CAR WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY. I HAVE TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON, SHIFT GEARS, PUT IT BACK IN PARK AND TRY TURNING IT OFF AGAIN TO GET IT TO FULLY TURN OFF. SOMETIMES I HAVE TO DO THIS MULTIPLE TIMES. I HAVE READ ON FORUMS THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM, AND MAZDA IS NOT DOING ANYTHING TO REMEDY THIS SITUATION.

THE VEHICLE DOES NOT TOTALLY SHUT DOWN WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PLACED IN PARK AND THE STARTER BUTTON IS PRESSED. THE ENGINE WILL SHUT OFF BUT DEFAULTS TO ACCESSORY MODE LEAVING THE RADIO ON. PRIOR TO THIS OCCURRENCE, THE VEHICLE HAD SAT OUTSIDE IN EXTREMELY HOT WEATHER WITH THE OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE BEING 99 DEGREES FOR APPROXIMATELY 6 HOURS. SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO TURN ON THEN TURN OFF VEHICLE DID NOT REMEDY THIS. THE FINAL ATTEMPT WAS TO START THE VEHICLE AND DRIVE THE VEHICLE AROUND THE BLOCK WITH THE AIR CONDITIONER ON AT THE HIGHEST LEVEL. UPON RETURN TO THE RESIDENCE, THE VEHICLE WAS PLACED IN PARK AND THE STARTER BUTTON PRESSED AND THE VEHICLE DID SHUT DOWN COMPLETELY.

OUR SUNROOF EXPLODED WHILE WE WERE DRIVING 55MPH ON A WINDY ROAD. SOUNDED LIKE A RIFLE SHOT. NO CLIFFS ABOVE US. NO DRAMATIC TEMP OR PRESSURE CHANGED. SEEMED LIKE A SPONTANEOUS EVENT.

HAPPENING MORE FREQUENTLY, THE CAR WILL NOT SHUT OFF: ENGINE SHUTS DOWN, BUT CENTER CONSOLE (RADIO CONSOLE) DOES NOT SHUT OFF EVEN WHEN IN PARK. STARTING THE CAR UP AGAIN, SHIFTING TO ANOTHER GEAR, PUTTING BACK INTO PARK AND THEN ATTEMPTING TO TURN OFF AGAIN USUALLY FIXES ISSUE BUT CAN TAKE UP TO 10X TO ACCOMPLISH! IF YOU DON'T GET THE RADIO TO SHUT OFF, THE BATTERY WILL DIE.

VEHICLE DOES NOT TURN OFF COMPLETELY. IT DOES NOT RECOGNIZE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF, BUT RADIO STAYS ON AND A NOTICE TO "SET THE SYSTEM TO OFF" POPS UP. ALSO TELLS YOU TO PUT THE CAR IN 'P'

SUNROOF GLASS EXPLOSION SUNROOF SPONTANEOUSLY EXPLODED WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH ON AN EMPTY HIGHWAY. INTERNAL SUNROOF COVER SHIELDED ANY DEBRIS. OUTSIDE CONDITIONS: CLOUDY DAY, AROUND 85 DEGREES AND HUMID. RAIN IN FORECAST. OTHER DETAILS: SPEED LIMIT WAS 70 MPH. GLASS SHATTERED AND A PORTION BLEW UP AND OUT OF THE VEHICLE. NO OTHER VEHICLES WERE PRESENT. EXTREMELY LOUD BOOM FOLLOWED BY SOUND OF AIR FLOWING INTO VEHICLE (LIKE AN OPEN WINDOW). WHEN OPENING THE COVER TO SEE WHAT IT WAS, PIECES OF GLASS FELL INTO THE VEHICLE. CURRENTLY UNDERGOING GETTING REPAIRS UNDER INSURANCE.

ON THREE OCCASIONS, WHILE PARKING MY VEHICLE AND REVERSING OUT OF A PARKING SPOT, MY VEHICLE SLIPPED AND AUTOMATICALLY ACCELERATED FORWARD WITHOUT ME PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL. THE MOST RECENT INCIDENT OCCURRED ON MAY 17, 2018 WHILE I WAS ATTEMPTING TO PARK MY VEHICLE AND IT AUTOMATICALLY ACCELERATED WITHOUT ME PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL AND CAUSED ME TO CRASH INTO 2 POLES THAT WHERE PLACED IN FRONT OF A DOORWAY IN THE PARKING LOT. THE SECOND ISSUE I HAVE WITH THIS VEHICLE IS THE POWER BUTTON ON THE IGNITION WILL NOT TURN OFF WHEN I PRESS THE OFF BUTTON. IN ORDER FOR THE POWER TO TURN OFF, I HAVE TO CONTINUOUSLY PRESS THE BRAKE, MOVE THE PARKING GEAR BACK AND FORTH AND PRESS THE IGNITION BUTTON SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE THE POWER SHUTS OFF.

SHIFTER POSITION SWITCH NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. AFTER THE CAR IS IN PARK AND THE IGNITION IS TURNED OFF, THE CAR'S ACCESSORIES STAY ON.

CAR WILL NOT POWER OFF EVEN AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS RADIO WILL STAY ON MAY TAKE UP TO 20 TIMES RESTARTING AND TURN OFF CAR FOR IT TO COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN

WHEN I PLACE MY GEAR SHIFTER INTO THE PARK POSITION, THE ENGINE TURNS OFF, BUT RADIO REMAINS ON. I THEN HAVE TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON, JIGGLE THE GEAR SHIFTER AGAIN, THEN EVERYTHING WILL TURN OFF. BEFORE I REALIZED WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS, MY CAR BATTERY DIED SEVERAL TIMES, AND EVENTUALLY HAD TO REPLACE IT. IT IS OCCURRING MORE OFTEN AND I'M WORRIED THAT I WILL BE STRANDED SOMEWHERE AND NOT BE ABLE TO COMPLETELY TURN THE CAR OFF.

CAR WILL NOT COMPLETELY SHUT OFF WHEN PUT IN PARK. THIS IS A PUSH TO START CAR AND THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR SEVERAL MONTHS EVEN THOUGH THE CAR HAS NO OTHER ISSUES. I AM UNABLE TO LOCK CAR.

VEHICLE'S ELECTRONICS WILL NOT SHUT OFF WHEN TRANSAXLE IS PLACED IN PARK. VEHICLE OFTEN REQUIRES THAT OPERATOR PUSH TRANSAXLE FAR TO THE LEFT AND THEN ATTEMPT TO SHUT OFF. SOMETIMES THIS WORKS. OTHER TIMES IT DOES NOT. IF NOT CAREFUL, BATTERY WILL DRAIN AND STRAND OPERATOR WHERE PARKED.

WHEN THE CAR IS IN PARK POSITION AND I GO TO HIT THE POWER BUTTON TO TURN THE CAR OFF; I GET A MESSAGE THAT STATES I MUST PUT THE CAR IN PARK. THE ENGINE IS WILL TURN OFF BUT ALL ELECTRICAL FEATURES (RADIO, LIGHTS, ETC.) ARE STILL ON. IT WILL NOT ALLOW ME TO LOCK THE DOORS IN THIS STATE. THIS IS HAPPENING WHEN I ATTEMPT TO TURN OFF THE CAR.

SENSOR ISSUES. WE HAVE HAD NUMEROUS SENSOR ISSUES WITH THE CAR INCLUDING NOT BEING ABLE TO TURN OFF THE IGNITION WHEN IN PARK. MOST RECENT PROBLEM IS THE SENSOR DOES NOT SEE THAT THE CAR IS IN "P", SO IT WILL NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO BE TURNED OFF. VERY DANGEROUS! NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS TO DEALERSHIPS, BUT THEY WILL NOT PAY TO FIX PROBLEM. IT'S A VERY COMMON ISSUE WITH THESE VEHICLES, AND THIS IS ACKNOWLEDGE BY MAZDA, BUT THEY REFUSE TO REPAIR IT WITHOUT A HEFTY PRICE TAG.

THE DRIVER SIDE REARVIEW MIRROR VIBRATES VIOLENTLY AND BLURS VISIBILITY AT SPEEDS HIGHER THAN 50 MPH. A TSB HAS BEEN ISSUED FOR THIS ISSUE, BUT MAZDA REFUSES TO REPAIR IT FOR CERTIFIED PREOWNED VEHICLES EVEN THOUGH THIS IS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT AND IS VERY DISTRACTING DURING DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY. I HAVE TO LOOK AT THE MIRROR FOR A LONGER TIME TO MAKE SURE THE ROAD IS CLEAR, WHICH IS A HIGHER RISK TO MY SAFETY.

HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE COMPLAIN ONLINE ABOUT THE SAME PROBLEM: THE CAR DOES NOT TURN OFF WHEN PUSHING 'START' BUTTON BEING ON 'PARKING'. THE ENGINE DOES TURN OFF, BUT ELECTRONICS STAYS ON AND THE CAR CAN'T BE LEFT OR LOCKED. ACCORDING TO ONLINE DISCUSSIONS, THIS IS ABOUT DEFECTIVE SENSOR, WHICH IS SUPPOSED TO RECOGNIZE THAT THE CAR IS ON 'PARKING', AND IT HAPPENS FOR DIFFERENT MAZDA MODELS STARTING FROM 2013. THEY RECOGNIZE THE DEFECT BUT STILL WANT CUSTOMERS TO PAY FOR THE PART AND REPAIR. HOPEFULLY, THERE ARE ENOUGH COMPLAINS ABOUT THIS ISSUE TO INITIATE A RECALL.

WHEN PUTTING THE VEHICLE IN PARK THE ENGINE WILL NOT CUT OFF AM BEING TOLD IT IS THE SHIFTER POSITION SWITCH THIS IS HAPPENING SEVERAL TIMES. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO SHUT OFF VEHICLE WHILE IN PARK. IT DOES NOT MATTER WHERE IT IS PARKED HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR AT LEAST 3-4 MONTHS

LATCH ON THE DRIVER-SIDE, REAR FOLDING SEAT WON'T ENGAGE. I FOLDED THE SEAT-BACK FORWARD TO CREATE MORE CARGO ROOM. AFTERWARD, WHEN I FOLDED IT UPRIGHT THE LATCH THAT IS SUPPOSED TO LOCK IT IN AN UPRIGHT POSITION WOULD NOT ENGAGE. I TRIED MANY TIMES TO HAVE IT LATCH AND LOCK, BUT IT WOULD NOT DO SO AND IT JUST FLOPPED FORWARD. I WENT ON-LINE AND FOUND THAT OTHER CX-5 OWNERS HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. THIS CREATES A SAFETY ISSUE FOR PERSONS RIDING IN THE REAR SEAT.

CAR WILL NOT TURN OFF WHEN BRAKE IS PRESSED, CAR IS IN PARK AND I HIT THE POWER OFF BUTTON. LEAVING CAR RUNNING IN GARAGE - VERY UNSAFE. NOT THE ONLY ONE... HERE IS A LINK TO SITE WITH 100'S OF PEOPLE WITH SAME ISSUES. HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T49115_DS799849

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND A/T WARNING LIGHT REMAIN ON. UNEXPECTED ISSUE DOES NOT APPEAR TO HAVE ANY CAUSE THAT IS BASED ON DRIVER USAGE OF VEHICLE. OEM BLOGS FOR VARIOUS OWNERS OF THIS MODEL APPEAR TO HAVE SIMILAR ISSUES. MANUFACTURER IS CHARGING CUSTOMERS TO UPDATE THE TCM AND PCM CODES ON PROGRAMMING BOARDS, FOR AN ISSUE IT IS AWARE OF. CODES APPEAR TO ARISE RANDOMLY, AND NOT AS PART OF VEHICLE BEING IN MOTION.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS STARTED, THE IGNITION REMAINED IN THE ON POSITION. OVER THE COURSE OF TIME, THE CONTACT HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY DUE TO THE FAILURE. NORTH SHORE MAZDA (84 NEWBURY ST, DANVERS, MA 01923, (978) 619-0220) WAS CONTACTED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THERE WAS A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN; HOWEVER, THE DEALER WAS NOT OBLIGATED TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE AND STATED THAT IT WAS NOT COVERED UNDER THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE ON 02/27/2018 AND REFUSED TO AUTHORIZE THE NECESSARY REPAIR. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 23,033. *TT *TR

I WAS DRIVING ON A MAIN ROAD AND ALL OF A SUDDEN IT SEEMS AS IF THE CAR LOST POWER (2014 MAZDA CX-5 GRAND TOURING). I COULD NOT ACCELERATE AND A LOT OF THE LIGHTS ON THE DASH LIT UP (TPMS, TRACTION CONTROL, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT). THANKFULLY I WAS ONLY A MILE FROM HOME AND WAS ABLE TO TURN AROUND AND MAKE IT HOME, BUT I COULD HAVE BEEN IN A SERIOUS ACCIDENT WITH MY INFANT IN THE CAR AS I WAS ABOUT TO GET ON THE HIGHWAY. I WAS ONLY ABLE TO GO ABOUT 10 MPH, CAR KEPT REVVING, SPUTTERING AND VIBRATING. ONCE I GOT HOME I SHUT THE CAR OFF FOR A FEW MINUTES. IT STARTS NO PROBLEM BUT SAME LIGHTS KEEP FLASHING AND I FEEL THE WHOLE CAR VIBRATING, I DON'T FEEL SAFE IF THIS CAR. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE, CAR IS ONLY 3 YEARS OLD WITH 50,000 MILES ON IT, IT IS NOT NORMAL FOR A CAR TO COMPLETELY LOSE POWER TO THE POINT WHERE IT ALMOST COMES TO A COMPLETE STOP. MAZDA NEEDS TO ISSUE A RECALL BEFORE SOMEONE GETS INTO A SERIOUS ACCIDENT BECAUSE OF THIS!

ACCELERATED FROM A TRAFFIC LIGHT AND CHECK ENGINE AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON AND CAR WOULD NOT ACTUALLY ACCELERATE. LUCKILY I WAS IN FRONT OF MY WORKPLACE, BUT EARLIER DURING THE DRIVE, THE BLUETOOTH CONSOLE POWERED COMPLETELY DOWN AND RESTARTED ITSELF. NOT SURE IF ELECTRICAL OR WHAT. VERY SCARY.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ENGINE INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AND THE VEHICLE FAILED TO TURN OFF. THE CONTACT HAD TO MANEUVER THE GEAR SHIFTER IN ORDER FOR VEHICLE TO SHUT DOWN. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO DESTINATION KIA (760 CENTRAL AVE, ALBANY, NY 12206) AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT WAS REFERRED TO THE LOCAL MAZDA DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO DEPAULA FORD (799 CENTRAL AVE, ALBANY, NY 10206) AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD NEED TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 84,432.

WHEN I PUT MY CAR IN PARK AND GO TO TURN THE CAR OFF, IT WON'T TURN OFF. I THEN HAVE TO PUT IT IN REVERSE AND FORCEFULLY PUSH FORWARD AND LEFT (SOMETIMES 5+ TIMES) AND THEN EVENTUALLY IT WILL ALLOW ME TO TURN OFF THE CAR. I LOOKED IT UP ON THE INTERNET AND I SAW THAT THERE WERE MANY OTHERS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. MY CAR IS ONLY 4 YEARS OLD AND THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR THE PAST YEAR.

I RECEIVED A LEGAL NOTICE FOR DEFECTED AIRBAG( TAKATA AIRBAG INFLATORS) AND I BELIEVE THAT MY VEHICLE, MAZDA CX-5 IS ON YOUR RECALL LIST BUT WHEN I CONFIRMED WITH MAZDA DEALERSHIP, THEY TOLD ME THERE IS NO RECALL FOR AIRBAG. SO I WANT TO KNOW WHO IS CORRECT OR NOT. SINCE I RECEIVED THE NOTICE I'VE BEEN CONCERNING ABOUT IT.

THE CAR WILL NOT COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. WHEN PARKING THE PUSH BUTTON ON/OFF SWITCH IS PRESSED. THE CAR ENGINE SHUTS OFF BUT POWER IS STILL TURNED ON. THIS HAPPENS RANDOMLY. IT HAS TAKEN AS MUCH AS 20 MINS OF DRIVING IN A PARKING LOT TO TRY AND GET THE CAR TO SHUT OFF. FIRST NOTICED IN JUNE, IT IS NOT OCTOBER AND IT SEEMS TO HAVE GOTTEN WORSE.

WHILE COMING THROUGH A CAR WAS MY SUN ROOF SHATTERED WHEN IT CAME TO THE DRYING CYCLE. LUCKILY I WASN'T IN THE CAR.

WHEN I START THE CAR ALL THE DASH LIGHTS ILLUMINATED AND STAYED ON AS I DROVE THE CAR. WHEN I TURNED ON THE RIGHT TURN SIGNAL ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS FLASHED RAPIDLY THE NAVIGATION, ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SHUT DOWN AND THE CAR STARTED TO DIE. THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT STAYS LIT THE WARNING ABOUT A POWER STEERING FAILURE, BRAKE FAILURE AND KEYLESS ENTRY PROBLEM, ABS, SPEED MONITORING TIRE PRESSURE ALL COMES UP IN THE WARNING AREA. THE POWER STEERING DOES FAIL MAKING IT HARD TO TURN. IN DOING RESEARCH ON THE ISSUE IT COMES FROM A FAULTY GROUND CABLE ISSUE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CAR. I HAVE HAD THIS OCCUR 3 DIFFERENT TIMES NOW ON THIS CAR.

VEHICLE LOST POWER AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE, CHECK ENGINE, TMPS AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS ILLUMINATED ON THE DASH. LUCKILY DIDN'T HAPPEN ON A HIGHWAY. IGNITION COIL AND SPAR PLUG WERE REPLACED. CAR MILEAGE 48000, SPARK PLUGS SHOULD LAST TO 75000 MILES ACCORDING TO MANUFACTURER.

THE PASSENGER AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON AND CONTINUES TO FLASH. WENT TO DOLAN MAZDA DEALERSHIP TO DETERMINE THE ISSUE. THE PASSENGER AIRBAG SENSOR WAS BAD. NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. EVIDENTLY, THIS HAS HAPPENED ON OTHER VEHICLES. THE CAR IS NOT EVEN 4 YEARS OLD YET. THE SENSORS SHOULD LAST LONGER THAN THAT.

SINCE WE BOUGHT THIS CAR, THE BATTERY GOES DEAD IF NOT DRIVEN IN 1 TO 2 WEEKS. WE CHARGE IT AND THEN WE CHECK THE BATTERY AND IT'S O.K. OF COURSE IT IS STATIONARY AND CAN'T BE DRIVEN. WHAT IT CAUSING IT TO DIE SO QUICKLY - CAN'T DRIVE IT IF IT DOESN'T START.

TL* THE CONTACT'S DAUGHTER OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE DRIVING, THE CONTACT HEARD A CLICKING NOISE UNDER THE HOOD OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT COULD NOT DETERMINE THE LOCATION OF THE CLICKING NOISE. THE TRACTION CONTROL AND CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. ON ANOTHER OCCASION, THE CONTACT'S DAUGHTER ATTEMPTED TO START THE VEHICLE, BUT IT FAILED TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE BATTERY DRAINED DUE TO IT NOT GROUNDING ONE OF THE CIRCUITS. ALSO, THE POWER CONTROL MODULE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE INDEPENDENT MECHANIC STATED THAT NO PARTS WERE AVAILABLE TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE AT ANY OF THE LOCAL DEALERS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNAVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER DEPRESSING THE ON/OFF BUTTON TO TURN THE VEHICLE OFF, THE ENGINE WOULD SHUT OFF BUT THE VEHICLE WOULD REMAIN ON. WHILE THE ELECTRONICS WERE STILL ON, THE VEHICLE WAS UNABLE TO BE REMOTELY LOCKED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED HE WAS AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH UNIT WAS FAULTY AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. NO FURTHER INFORMATION WAS AVAILABLE. THE LOCAL DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000.

THE REAR BRAKE PADS ON MY MAZDA CX 5 GRAND TOURING MODEL IS WORN OUT TO (0.2 PER DEALER) AT APPROX 34000 MILES. NOTICED THE PROBLEM WHEN THE CAR STARTED MAKING A GRINDING NOISE FROM THE REAR. BEFORE THIS THERE WAS A VERY STRONG VIBRATION OF STEERING WHEN BRAKING AT SPEEDS OF 55 PLUS MPH. THIS IS VERY UNUSUAL IN MY EXPERIENCE THAT A CAR WHICH IS ABOUT 2 YEARS OLD NEEDS NEW BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS REPLACED. MAZDA WEBSITE HAD SOME INFORMATION HTTP://WWW.CARCOMPLAINTS.COM/MAZDA/CX-5/2013/BRAKES/SERVICE_BRAKES.SHTML. BRAKE ROTORS WERE REPLACED BY MAZDA AT 34000 MILES, NOT MY CAR IS AT 56000 MILES AND INITIAL SYMPTOM WITH THE STRONG VIBRATION OF THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN BRAKING IS REAPPEARING. THIS SEEMS TO INDICATE AN INHERENT PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL PER INDEPENDENT MECHANICS.

THERE IS A CONSTANT RATTLING NOISE WHICH SEEMS TO BE ARISING FROM WITHIN THE REAR PASSENGER AREA OF THE VEHICLE. DEALER HAS NOT BEEN ABLE TO IDENTIFY THE SOURCE OF THE NOISE AND ADVISE ON A RESOLUTION. THIS STARTED ABOUT AFTER 2 YEARS OF USE OF BRAND NEW VEHICLE.

ALL SEATS STARTED PRODUCING A SQUEAKING NOISE AFTER A COUPLE OF YEARS OF USE.

VEHICLE HAS RECENTLY BEGAN TO NOT TURN OFF COMPLETELY WHEN THE START/STOP BUTTON IS PRESSED WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. IT STAYS IN THE ACCESSORIES MODE WITH SOME INSTRUMENTS AND ACCESSORIES STILL ON AND CAN NOT BE LOCKED. IF LEFT IN THIS CONDITION, THE BATTERY WILL DRAIN AND THE CAR IS UNLOCKED AND CAN BE ENTERED. TO RESOLVE THIS, THE TRANSMISSION HAS TO BE SHIFTED IN AND OUT OF PARK UNTIL THE VEHICLE CAN BE TURNED OFF. THIS CAN TAKE FOUR OR FIVE OR MORE ATTEMPTS. SOMETIMES, THE VEHICLE HAS TO BE MOVED SLIGHTLY IN ORDER FOR THIS TO OCCUR.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES); HOWEVER, THE PART FOR THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

TPMS (TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) FAILS REPEATEDLY ON THIS AND OTHER MODELS OF MAZDA; REQUIRED TO BE OPERATING FOR SAFETY INSPECTION, BUT DOES NOT WORK. REPLACEMENT ANNUALLY AT INSPECTION TIME IS NOT SAFE, BUT SEEMS TO BE THE ONLY ANSWER - THEY COST OVER $100 EACH TO REPLACE!

THE REAR WINDOW SHATTERED SPONTANEOUSLY. WHILE PARKED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART FOR THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE. UPDATED 07/13/17*LJ *AS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

WHILE DRIVING ON I95 NORTH AT APPROX. 55-60MPH AND BETWEEN FOREST HILL AND SOUTHERN BLVD, THE VEHICLE HIT A PIECE OF WOOD OR METAL THAT WAS ON THE ROAD. THE FRONT WHEEL CRACK IN HALF. CONCERN WITH STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THESE WHEEL.

SAFETY RECALL 9916H, NHTSA NO. 16V-644. LIFT GATE STAY DAMPER WAS RECALLED IN SEPT. 2016 BUT NO PARTS WERE AVAILABLE FOR THE SAFETY RECALL AT THAT TIME. IT IS NOW 7 1/2 MONTHS LATER AND STILL NO PARTS ARE AVAILABLE. AN UNREASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME HAS PASSED ON A REPLACEMENT PART THAT IS CONSIDERED A SAFETY ISSUE.

I NEED TO SHIP MY CAR OVERSEAS AND THERE IS A RECALL NOTICE, BUT MAZDA CAN NOT FIX IT. I NEED TO HAVE THIS RECALL NOTICE RESOLVED IN ORDER TO SHIP MY CAR. I AM BEING PREVENTED FROM SHIPPING THE CAR. PLEASE RESOLVE THIS IMMEDIATELY.

SEPT 06, 2016 MANUFACTURER RECALL NUMBER9916H NHTSA RECALL NUMBER16V-644 RECALL STATUS RECALL INCOMPLETE, REMEDY NOT YET AVAILABLE VIN: [XXX] COMPLAIN: I BOUGHT THIS CAR IN 27-FEB-2017. DEALER HIDE THAT THERE WAS A OPEN SAFETY RECALL ASSOCIATED WITH THIS VEHICLE. I RECENTLY CAME TO KNOW ABOUT THIS. WHEN I TRIED TO CONTACT DEALER (NORTHTOWN AUTO) THEY SAID CONTACT MAZDA DIRECTLY. WHEN I TALKED TO MAZDA THEY SAID THEY ARE NOT MANUFACTURING THESE PARTS ANYMORE, SO THEY DON'T KNOW HOW LONG IT WILL TAKE TO FIX THIS. IT COULD BE 1 YEAR OR MORE THAN THAT. IT'S BEEN 7MONTH RECALL REPORTED AND THEY DON'T HAVE ANY PLAN TO FIX IT YET. DURING OUR CONVERSATION I FIGURE OUT THEY ARE NOT SERIOUS ABOUT THIS ISSUE BECAUSE ACCORDING TO THEM IT'S NOT A DIRECT THREAD TO LIFE. I SURPRISED THEY DON'T EVEN CARE FOR THIS RECALL. I WOULD LIKE TO REQUEST YOU TO TAKE A LOOK INTO THIS ISSUE. I HAVE LITTLE CHILDREN IN FAMILY WHO RIDE MY CAR. I DON'T WANT TO COMPROMISE THEIR SAFETY. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED A NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE) HOWEVER THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED ANY FAILURES. THE VIN TOOL CONFORMS PART NOT AVAILABLE UPDATED 06/13/17*LJ *CN

NO RESOLUTION TO NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER 16V644000 (6 MONTHS SINCE NOTICE)

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER AND DEALER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES) FOR THE DOOR HATCH; HOWEVER, THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART FOR THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT. UPDATED 06/02/2017 *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE). THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER THE PART FOR THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE. UPDATED 05/17/17*LJ *CN

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED A RECALL NOTIFICATION FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE: BODY) AND STATED THAT THE PART NEEDED WAS UNAVAILABLE TO PERFORM THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE REVERSING THE VEHICLE, THE BRAKES MADE NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT WATER ENTERED AND CAUSED THE CALIPERS TO RUST. THE BRAKES WERE DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE WAS NOT REMEDIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 42,000.

THE BRAKE PEDAL IS SEVERAL INCHES HIGHER THAN THE GAS PETAL IN THIS VEHICLE. IT SLOWS DOWN REACTION TIME WHEN REACTING TO AN EMERGENCY SITUATION. I WAS BACKING INTO A PARKING SPACE. A VEHICLE WENT AROUND ME. I NOTICED THE VEHICLE, BUT WHEN I TRIED TO QUICKLY MOVE MY FOOT TO THE BRAKE MY FOOT GOT HUNG UP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. THERE WAS AN ACCIDENT WITH NO INJURIES. THE ACCIDENT COULD HAVE BEEN AVOIDED IF I WAS ABLE TO HIT THE BRAKES. AFTER THE ACCIDENT I SAT IN THE PARKING LOT TO ANALYZE AND CORRECT MY MUSCLE MEMORY AND PRACTICE MOVING MY FOOT QUICKLY FROM GAS TO PEDAL. I REALIZED IT TOOK MUCH EFFORT, CONCENTRATION AND QUITE A STRETCH TO GET GET MY FOOT TO THE PEDAL QUICKLY. THE PEDALS SHOULD BE EVEN, OR VERY CLOSE TO EVEN. I DON'T KNOW WHY SOMEONE WOULD THINK THIS IS BETTER, BUT IF IT'S A PREFERENCE THERE SHOULD BE AN ADJUSTMENT. EVEN SHOULD BE THE FACTORY DEFAULT. IT'S COMMON SENSE YOU CAN MOVE MORE QUICKLY STRAIT ACROSS THAN UP AND OVER. THE UNADJUSTIBLE FACTORY POSITION IS OK FOR STANDARD TRAFFIC SITUATIONS, BUT WHEN IN AN UNEXPECTED ENERGENCY SITUATION IT SLOWS DOWN YOUR REACTION TIME CONSIDERABLY. MAZDA SAYS IT'S NORMAN AND ALL NEW CARS ARE THIS WAY. I SAID THAT DOESN'T MAKE IT CORRECT OR ANY LESS OF A SAFETY CONCERN. WHY MAKE A CHANGE THAT SLOWS DOWN REACTION TIME? *TR

FRONT AND REAR BRAKE ROTORS WARPED AND PITTED AT 31,000 MILES. WE HAD THEM REPLACED IN MARCH 2016. IN DECEMBER 2016, (37,000 MLS) WE HAD INTERMITTENT RUMBLING IN THE BRAKES - PARTICULARLY BRAKING AT 50 + MPH. ALL THE NEW ROTORS WARPED AND WE HAVE HAD TO HAVE THEM REPLACED. HAVE OTHER OWNERS REPORTED SIMILAR ISSUES?. ARE THE BRAKES FOR THIS MODEL OF CAR UNDERSPECIFIED? IS THE STEEL OF POOR QUALITY?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE RECALL NOTICE FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (AIR BAGS) WAS RECEIVED IN SEPTEMBER. AFTER CONTACTING THE DEALER AND THE MANUFACTURER ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS, THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE PARTS NEEDED FOR THE RECALL REMEDY WERE STILL NOT AVAILABLE AND NO ESTIMATED TIME FOR RECEIVING THE PARTS COULD BE PROVIDED. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

REAR LIFT GATE MAY FALL IF LIFT GATE STAYS CORRODE DEALERSHIP SEND A LETTER NOTIFYING OF SUCH RECALL, THEREFORE CALLED FOR SERVICE APPOINTMENT AND WAS INFORMED THERE ARE NO PARTS IN FOR THIS SERVICE OF RECALL. I THEN QUESTIONED WHEN WILL THEY RECEIVE AND WAS INFORMED THERE IS NO DATE. 6750 W. 95TH ST., OAK LAWN, IL 60453 SERVICE: (708) 233-7700 | WWW.OAKLAWNMAZDA.COM

RIGHT REAR TIRE UNEXPECTEDLY BLEW OUT WITH NORMAL STREET DRIVING AT 40 MPH. NO HAZARDS WERE STRUCK. LOST CONTROL OF CAR. TREAD COMPLETELY SEPARATED FROM BELT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE SEAT BELT HAD DIFFICULTY LATCHING AND WOULD UNLATCH INDEPENDENTLY. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 65,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT RECEIVED A RECALL NOTICE FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE). THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PARTS NEEDED FOR THE RECALL REMEDY WERE NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE. UPDATED 01/05/2017*CT

WHEN CAR SHIFTED TO PARK IN ORDER TO SHUT DOWN ENGINE, THE VEHICLE OFTEN DOES NOT DETECT THE FACT THE CAR IS PARK WHEN BUTTON IGNITION IS PRESSED. MESSAGE APPEARS ON DASH SAYING TO SHIFT TO PARK ALTHOUGH IT IS ALREADY IN PARK. REQUIRES USER TO MOVE SHIFTER OUT OF PARK AND THEN BACK INTO PARK ORDER FOR CAR TO REGISTER PARK FOR TURNING OFF AUXILLARY POWER. IF DRIVER IS NOT ATTENTIVE TO DASH MESSAGE OR DING WHEN EXITING CAR POWER REMAINS ON AND BATTERY IS DRAINED RESULTING IN DEAD BATTERY.

THE HEADREST TILTING FORWARD IS TENSING MY NECK AND SHOULDERS SIGNIFICANTLY. I CANNOT GET COMFORTABLY POSITIONED. THIS IS ESPECIALLY AN ISSUE WHEN DRIVING FOR AN HOUR OR MORE. I HAD A CERVICAL FUSION AND THE FORWARD TILT OF THE HEADREST CAUSES MY HEAD TO TILT FORWARD UNCOMFORTABLY. AND I AM FORCED TO TILT THE SEAT BACK MORE SO THE HEADREST DOESN'T TOUCH MY HEAD, WHICH REDUCES BACK SUPPORT AND IS LESS SAFE THAN BEING MORE UPRIGHT. MY PREVIOUS VEHICLE WAS A 2001 DAKOTA. THOSE HEADRESTS WERE INLINE WITH THE SEAT BACK. MY UNDERSTANDING IS THAT THE TILT IS FOR SAFETY, BUT IT IS SO UNCOMFORTABLE THAT I'M LOOKING INTO WAYS TO ALTER IT. I'VE TRIED REVERSING THE HEADREST BUT NOW MY HEAD IS 4-5" AWAY.

FOLLOWING A ROUTINE OIL CHANGE WITH ONLY 26,000 MI IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT MY FRONT BRAKE ROTORS ARE SEVERELY CORRODED AND NEED TO BE REPLACED.THE SERVICE AT LIBERTY MAZDA WAKEFIELD,MA INSIST IT IS DANGEROUS TO KEEP DRIVING MY VEHICLE DUE TO POSSIBLE BRAKE FAILURE. I BELIEVE THIS IS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT,OR AS THE MECHANIC STATED AN INFERIOR STEEL PRODUCT USED TO MANUFACTURE THE ROTORS.

NO ISSUES LEADING UP TO THIS POINT WITH MY CX-5. WENT TO START THE CAR AND ALL THE DASH LIGHTS ILLUMINATED AND REMAINED ON. AS I BEGAN TO DRIVE, I ATTEMPTED TO USE THE RIGHT HAND TURN SIGNAL AND THE WARNING LIGHTS FLASHED RAPIDLY AS THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, BLUETOOTH, NAVIGATION, AND ENTIRE ENGINE SHUT OFF. I STOPPED THE CAR, PUT IT IN PARK, AND TRIED RESTARTING. WHEN IT DID, HALF OF THE WARNING LIGHTS WERE ON IN PARK, INCLUDING THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT, AND WHEN PUT IN DRIVE THE REST OF THE LIGHTS CAME BACK ON. I TRIED THE RIGHT SIGNAL AGAIN (IN PARK) AND THE SAME ISSUE OCCURRED, WITH THE END RESULT OF THE ENGINE TURNING OFF. AS I DROVE WITH THESE LIGHTS ON, NEW WARNINGS CAME ON AND OFF, INCLUDING LOSS OF POWER TO MY STEERING(MAKING IT MORE DIFFICULT TO TURN), ABS, SPEED MONITORING, TIRE PRESSURE, BLIND SPOT MONITORING, HORN, AND BASICALLY ANYTHING ELSE CONTROLLED ELECTRONICALLY. I RAN THE CODES AND GOT LONG LIST, WITH MOST OF THEM BEING CONNECTED TO LOSS OF COMMUNICATION. SOME CODES WERE: U0121, P0500, P0685. I TOOK IT TO THE MAZDA DEALER, AND AFTER 2 HRS OF DIAGNOSTIC THERE WERE UNABLE TO FIND THE PROBLEM AND SAID THEY WOULD NEED MORE TIME (AND MONEY, OBVIOUSLY). FROM READING OTHER BLOGS/COMMENTS WITH THE SIMILAR ISSUE, SEEMS TO BE A FAULTY GROUND WIRE. THIS IS SOMETHING THAT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SEEMS TO BE OCCURRING A LOT IN THIS MODEL. MAZDA NEEDS TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE ASAP

ENGINE/ACTIVE ACCESSORIES WOULD NOT SHUT OFF. AFTER STOPPED AND PUT THE VEHICLE INTO THE PARK POSITION, AND PUSHED THE START/STOP BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE VEHICLE, IT WOULD NOT SHUT OFF. IT SOUNDED LIKE THE ENGINE SHUT OFF BUT THE ACCESSORIES WERE ACTIVE AND FULLY ENGAGED AND BEEPING. I TRIED PUSHING OFF BUTTON SEVERAL TIMES, RESTARTING /SHUTTING OFF AGAIN,AND DRIVING TO ANOTHER PARKING STALL, I HAD TO LEAVE MY CAR UNLOCKED, ACTIVELY ENGAGED WITH ACTIVE ACCESSORIES FULLY ON IN MY DRIVEWAY AT HOME, IN SHOPPING CENTERS LIKE TARGET, WALMART, THE MALL, AND GROCERY STORE. EACH TIME WHEN I RETURNED TO MY VEHICLE ACC WERE STILL ON. I HAD TO DRIVE THE CAR A BIT AND KEEP TRYING TO PARK UNTIL IT SHUT OFF. THE FIRST TIME THIS OCCURRED WA APPROX JULY- AUGUST , 2015 AND MY CAR WAS STILL UNDER THE 36K/3YR WARRANTY AND I WAS TOLD BY THE MAZDA SERVICE ADVISOR THAT IT WAS JUST A LOW KEY BATTERY AND I NEEDED TO REPLACE IT. HE SAID HE DID A COMPLETE DIAGNOSTIC CHECK AND NO PROBLEM SHOWED UP. IT OCCURRED INTERMITTENTLY SO I BELIEVED HIM. RECENTLY JULY 2016- AUG 2016 IT ACTUALLY GOT WORSE AND HAPPENED APPROXIMATELY 5 TIMES WITHIN ONE MONTH. I CHANGED BATTERIES THREE TIMES ON TWO SEPARATE KEYS. THE BATTERIES ARE NOT THE PROBLEM OR ANSWER AND HAS NOT RESOLVED THE PROBLEM. I THINK THIS IS MIGHT BE A TRANSMISSION, ENGINE, IGNITION OR ELECTRICAL STABILITY CONTROL; I DON'T KNOW, BUT DEFINITELY NOT A LOW KEY BATTERY PROB AS I WAS TOLD BY MAZDA SEVICE ADVISOR.

APPROXIMATELY APRIL 2014, I BEGAN TO NOTICE A GAS ODOR IN THE CAB OF MY 2014 MAZDA CX-5 TOURING. THE ODOR WAS STRONGER WHEN I EXITED THE VEHICLE AND STRONGER STILL AT THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. IT CONTINUED SPORADICALLY AND BEGAN TO GROW IN INTENSITY OVER TIME. I THEN BEGAN TO NOTICE THAT MY GAS MILEAGE INDICATOR WOULD DROP THE MILES LEFT ON MY GAS TANK FROM APPROXIMATELY 15-50 MILES FROM THE TIME IT WAS PARKED TO THE NEXT TIME I STARTED THE ENGINE. ON ONE OCCASION MY VEHICLE LOST ALL THE GAS AND I HAD TO CALL INS CO FOR GAS TOW IN JULY, 2014. I WAS ALSO NOTICING DEAD SPOTS ON THE GRASS SECTION OF MY DRIVEWAY UNDER WHERE MY CAR HAD BEEN PARKED. I SCHEDULED AN ONLINE APPOINTMENT TO MAZDA DEALERSHIP WHERE I HAD PURCHASED THE VEHICLE. I SHARED THE AFOREMENTIONED WITH SERV ADVISOR. HE DID NOT ASK TO SEE THEM. AFTER INSP, ADVISOR STATED HE HAD NOT FOUND THE SOURCE OF THE GAS LEAK BUT COULD SMELL THE GAS LEAK/ODOR FROM THE VEHICLE AND HE ARRANGED FOR A RENTAL UNTIL THEY COULD IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM. THE NEXT DAY HE STILL HADN'T FOUND THE PROBLEM BUT MAZDA TOLD HIM TO REPLACE THE GAS SENSOR. I ASKED HIM SEVERAL TIMES WHERE THE GAS WAS LEAKING FROM AND HE STATED HE DID NOT KNOW. I EXPRESSED MY CONCERNS THAT IF THEY DIDN'T KNOW, THEN HOW COULD THEY REPAIR THE LEAK CORRECTLY AND SAFELY. HE STATED HE DID NOT KNOW WHERE IT WAS LEAKING FROM BUT WOULD REPLACE THE SENSOR PER MAZDA INSTRUCTION AND MY VEHICLE WOULD BE READY ON 8/14/14. I CALLED ADVISOR BACK ON 8/13/14 TO VOICE MY CONCERNS AGAIN BUT HE NEVER RETURNED MY CALL. THIS PROBLEM CONTINUES AND IS INTERMITTENT. I HAVE RECENTLY CONTACTED MAZDA CORPORATE, 8/2016, AND SENT THE PICS TO MAZDA CORPORATE.

ABT 35K MILES I BEGAN HEARING INTERMITTENT SEQUELS COMING FROM REAR OF VEHICLE WHILE DRIVING. WHEN I FIRST MENTIONED THIS TO MAZDA SERVICE ADVISER, HE SAID HE DID A COMPLETE DIAGNOSTIC AND CAR WAS FINE. AT ABT 40-45K THE INTERMITTENT SQUEALS INCLUDED GRINDING LIKE A TIN CAN NOISE, BUT THERE WERE NO INDICATORS THAT IT WAS A BREAK ISSUE; NOISE WAS NOTICED MORE DURING DRIVING NOT WHEN I STOPPED AND NO SERVICE BRAKE LIGHTS WERE ON. IF I ACCELERATED OR MANEUVERED MY STEERING WHEEL I WAS ABLE TO GET NOISE TO STOP. WHEN I TOOK MY CAR IN TO MAZDA FOR OIL CHANGE I ASKED TO ALSO HAVE BRAKES CHECKED AND ADVISER SAID HE WOULD DO A COMPLETE DIAGNOSTIC. HE SAID BRAKES WERE IN YELLOW AND I COULD TRY TO CHANGE MY BRAKE FLUID? THE NOISE, DURATION AND OCCURRENCES INCREASED TO WEEKLY AND THEN DAILY. IT WAS STILL INTERMITTENT AND WHILE DRIVING FORWARD AND IN REVERSE, NOT AS MUCH WHEN BRAKING, AND IT HAD BECOME INCREASINGLY LOUDER. I CALLED MAZDA CORPORATE AND THEY FINALLY AGREED TO DO A DIAGNOSTIC AT A NEARBY MAZDA STORE WHEN I MENTIONED I FOUND TBS 04-005/15 ON THE BRAKE ISSUE AND WAS TAKING THE VEHICLE TO ANOTHER DEALERSHIP FOR A BRAKE CHECK. THE DIAGNOSTIC TECHNICIAN REPORT STATED TO REPLACE REAR BRAKE PADS TO CORRECT PROBLEM. IT SAID THE REAR BRAKES HAD 4MM ON OUTER PADS AND 1MM ON INNER PADS, AND FRONT PADS WERE AT 8MM; IT DID NOT STATE IF FRONT BRAKES WERE ALSO WORN UNEVENLY. IT ALSO SAID REAR ROTORS WERE AT 10MM AND MIN WAS 8MM. I TOLD CORPORATE THAT IT WAS UNUSUAL THAT REAR BRAKES WOULD WEAR UNEVENLY AND PRIOR TO FRONT BRAKES, THAT THERE WAS NO BRAKE SERVICE LIGHT SHOWING, THAT THE NOISE WAS INTERMITTENT NOT CONSTANT AND WHILE DRIVING MORE THAN BRAKING. I ALSO MENTIONED THAT I BELIEVED THERE WAS A DEFECT IN THE BRAKING SYSTEM.

PURCHASED MY VEHICLE NEW JUL 2013. THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS WERE ALL REPORTED TO MAZDA DEALERSHIP, SOME REPORTED AS SEPARATE COMPLAINTS, SOME REPAIRED, SOME MINIMIZED/DISMISSED. 1. LIFT GATE LATCH/OPERATION DOES NOT ALWAYS CLOSE PROPERLY TO ENGAGE LOCK. MUST OFTEN BE SLAMMED HARD SEVERAL TIMES TO CLOSE/LOCK, ONGOING SINCE PURCHASE. (MINIMIZED/DISMISSED BY DEALER) 2. PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG INDICATOR LIGHT STATES THAT THE PASSENGER SEAT IS NOT OCCUPIED WHEN IT IS, ONGOING SINCE PURCHASE.(MINIMIZED/DISMISSED) 3. SUSPENSION. CAR IS EASILY ROCKED BACK/FORTH BY MY YOUNG CHILDREN, ONGOING SINCE PURCHASE. (MINIMIZED/DISMISSED) 4. PASSENGER SEAT BELT WOULD NOT ENGAGE. REPAIRED, UNDER WARRANTY. 5. DRIVER N PASSENGER WINDOW CLICKING/POPPING NOISE. DRIVER SIDE WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACED, UNDER WARRANTY. SEPARATE COMPLAINTS FILED: 6. FUEL ODOR IN CABIN AND LEAKAGE ONTO GROUND. DEAD SPOTS ON GRASS, STAINS ON DRIVEWAY. UNABLE TO LOCATE PROBLEM, REPLACED SENSOR, UNDER WARRANTY. STILL HAVING INTERMITTENT PROBLEM. UNDER INVESTIGATION BY MAZDA CORPORATE. 7. REAR BRAKES; PREMATURE UNEVEN WEAR, NO LIGHT INDICATOR, INNER PADS WORE TO 1MM AND OUTER PADS WORE TO 4MM, ROTORS AT 10MM. FRONT BREAKS AT 8MM; UNKNOWN IF UNEVEN WEAR. SQUEALING, GRINDING INTERMITTENT NOISE BEGAN ABT 35K MILEAGE MOSTLY WHILE DRIVING NOT BREAKING, AND INCREASED IN NOISE LEVEL, DURATION, AND OCCURRENCE AT ABT 40-45K MILES. THERE IS A TSB 04/005/15 BUT FOR EAST COAST CONDITIONS. INITIALLY DISMISSED, MINIMIZED, IGNORED BY DEALERSHIP. MAZDA CORPORATE PAID FOR DIAGNOSTIC BUT SAYS ITS NORMAL AND NOT UNDER WARRANTY, 8. POWERTRAIN: THE INSTRUMENT PANEL STAYS ON AFTER SHUTTING OFF THE ENGINE. THEN CAR BEEPS WHEN I OPEN THE DOOR AND I CANNOT LOCK IT. AFTER LEAVING CAR LIKE THIS AND RETURNING TO VEHICLE I HAVE HAD TO HAVE ROADSIDE COME TO RECHARGE DEAD BATTERY. TOLD TO CHNG KEY BATTERY. NO HELP

COMPLAINED TO MAZDA THAT MY DRIVER SIDE WINDOW RATTLES WHEN DRIVIING AND DRIVER SIDE MIRROR SHAKES AT 50 MILES PER HOUR. THEY TOLD ME THERE IS NO RECALL. ALSO I GOT A STRESS CRACK IN MY WINDSHIED STARTED FROM BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD IN THE MIDDLE AND TURNED RIGHT. THE CAR WAS PARKED AND IN MY DRIVEWAY WHEN THIS HAPPENED

MY REAR BRAKE PADS HAD TO BE REPLACED WITH ONLY 33000 MILES ON THE CAR. THE FRONT ONES HAVE NOT BEEN REPLACED YET. THERE IS A RECALL TBS 04-003/14 ON THE BRAKES BUT MAZDA DID NOT HONOR IT BECAUSE THEY SAID THE SERVICE MANAGER SAID THE PADS WORE OUT EVENLY. IF DEFECTIVE THEY SHOULD WEAR OUT UNEVENLY. HUH? WHY DID THE BRAKE PADS WEAR OUT SO FAST?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE DRIVING 15 MPH, AN ABNORMAL SOUND WAS HEARD. THE FAILURE RECURRED RANDOMLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE WAS PERSISTENT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE REAR BRAKES FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 35,940.

TOOK VEHICLE IN FOR 35,00 MILE SERVICE AND WAS TOLD REAR BREAKS AND ROTORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. NEVER HERD OF SUCH A THING BEING REQUIRED AT THAT MILEAGE. MAYBE AT 60 TO 80,000 ON REAR BREAKS. STARTED TO CHECK AROUND AND FOUND MANY OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE REAR BREAKS FAILING PREMATURELY. HAVEN'T HAD WORK DONE YET, WONDERING IF THERE IS A RECALL IN PROGRESS?

DRIVING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY FROM PARK INTO DRIVE IT WOULD NOT GO ANYWHERE AFTER PRESSED ON THE GAS PEDAL SOMETHING GOING ON WITH THE TRANSMISSION IT'S OKAY TO GO IN REVERSE JUST NOT NEUTRAL OR DRIVE BRINGING IT TO A DEALERSHIP ON A FLATBED BEING TOWED AS IT IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE. MY VEHICLE HAS ABOUT 59500 MILES ON IT

WHEN CAR SHIFTED TO PARK IN ORDER TO SHUT DOWN ENGINE, THE VEHICLE OFTEN DOES NOT DETECT THE FACT THE CAR IS PAR WHEN BUTTON IGNITION IS PRESSED. MESSAGE APPEARS ON DASH SAYING TO SHIFT TO PARK TO TURN OFF POWER. REQUIRES USER TO PRESS BRAKE, RESTART CAR AND PUSH SHIFTER BACK TO PARK FORCEFULLY IN ORDER FOR CAR TO REGISTER PARK FOR TURNING OFF IGNITION. IF DRIVER IS NOT ATTENTIVE TO DASH MESSAGE OR DING WHEN EXITING CAR POWER REMAINS ON AND BATTERY IS DRAINED RESULTING IN DEAD BATTERY. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN ACKNOWLEDGED BY OTHER MAZDA OWNERS, BECAUSE I FOUND REFERENCES TO IT ON THE WEB. TOOK CAR TO MAZDA DEALERSHIP AND THEY INDICATED THIS IS AN ISSUE ON OTHER MAZDA MODELS. THE DATE LISTED BELOW WAS THE LATEST INSTANCE THAT RESULTED IN COMPLETE POWER DRAIN AND REQUIRED JUMP START FOR RECHARGE. HOWEVER, THIS SEEMS TO HAPPEN FREQUENTLY, RESULTING IN NEED TO RESTART THE CAR IN ORDER TO REGISTER THE CAR IS IN PARK IN ORDER TO TURN IT OFF. I BOUGHT THIS CAR USED AND INITIALLY REPLACED BATTERY THINKING THAT WAS THE PROBLEM.

WHEN DRIVING SLOW, SUCH AS 10-15 MPH , WHEN ONE STEPS ON THE ACCELERATOR, NOTHING HAPPEN, IF THIS IS THE MIDDLE, SAY A LEFT TURN, ONE CAN HAVE AN ACCIDENT IF YOU CAN NOT GET ANY POWER. THIS STARTS OFF MAYBE ONCE OR TWICE A DAY AND GETS WORSE TO10 OR 15 INCIDENCES A DAY. I COMPLAINED ABOUT THIS EACH TIME I TOOK THE CAR IN FOR SERVICE. THEY SAID THEY COULD NOT DUPLICATE. AFTER ALMOST A BAD ACCIDENT, I DROPPED THE CAR OFF AT THE DEALER AND STATED IT IS UNSAFE AT ANY SPEED AND TO FIX IT. THE RECALIBRATED THE TCM AND PCM. THEY SAY IT IS NOW OUT OF WARRANTY AND I PAID A LOT OF MONEY FOR THE REPAIR. IT WAS TROUBLE FREE FOR ABOUT A WEEK AND NOW UP TO ITS OLD HABITS AND IS SLOWLY GETTING WORSE. THERE ARE OTHER COMPLAINTS ON THE INTERNET FROM 2013. I KNOW MAZDA KNOWS THERE IS A PROBLEM BUT REFUSES TO RECOGNIZE IT, SO HOW MANY LIVES NEED TO LOST BEFORE THEY TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THIS DANGEROUS SITUATION. PLEASE HELP!

I WAS TRAVELING ABOUT 35MPH UP A SLIGHT INCLINE WHEN THE ENGINE LOST POWER AND STARTED SHAKING. THE TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM, TIRE MONITORING, AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ALL CAME ON AT THE SAME TIME. THE ENGINE DIDN'T HAVE ANY POWER EVEN WHEN I PRESSED ALL THE WAY ON THE ACCELERATOR I COULDN'T GET IT TO GO ANY FASTER THAN 45MPH.

THE LOW BEAMS ON THIS VEHICLE ARE INEFFECTIVE ON DARK COUNTRY ROADS. ALSO, THEY ARE POINTED SO LOW THAT THEY DO NOT ILLUMINATE A STOP SIGN - THEY HIT JUST BELOW THE SIGN ITSELF. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP TO GET THEM ADJUSTED, BUT THEY SAID THAT THEY COULD NOT BE ADJUSTED, AND THE HEIGHT IS NORMAL. WHILE DRIVING ON DARK ROADS, IF MY HIGH BEAMS ARE NOT ON THEN I NEED TO DRIVE REALLY SLOW SINCE I HAVE SUCH LIMITED VISIBILITY WITH MY LOW BEAMS.

ON 3/20/16, I WAS DRIVING ON A LOCAL ROAD WHEN THE CAR JUST STOPPED ACCELERATING. THE DASHBOARD LIT UP WITH AN ENGINE LIGHT ICON, A RED EXCLAMATION POINT AND A HOST OF ERRORS (SCBS, AT MALFUNCTION, ENGINE INSPECTION REQUIRED AND SOMETHING WITH A T). I COASTED TO A PARKING LOT, TURNED THE CAR OFF FOR A COUPLE MINUTES AND RESTARTED. THE SAME LIGHTS AND ERROR MESSAGES WERE THERE BUT THE CAR ACCELERATED WHEN PUSHING THE GAS PETAL BUT MORE SLOWLY THAN IT SHOULD AND AFTER 2 BLOCKS, IT JUST STOPPED AGAIN. MY 5 MONTH OLD GRANDDAUGHTER WAS IN THE CAR WITH ME. IF THIS HAD HAPPENED ON A BUSY STREET OR THE HIGHWAY, WE COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED.

THE INSTRUMENT PANEL STATES ON AFTER SHUTTING OF THE ENGINE. THE CAR STARTS BEEPING WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOOR AND YOU ARE NOT ABLE TO LOOK THE CAR. LOOK LIKE THE TRANSMISSION SHIFT IS NOT GOING TO PARK COMPLETELY SO THE BATTERY DIES EVERY TIME. ,

ON 2/24/16 I HAD TO HAVE MY 2014 CX-5 TOWED TO THE DEALER, BECAUSE THE CAR WAS SUDDENLY NOT ABLE TO ACCELERATE. I WAS DRIVING ON A 3 LANE ROAD, WHEN I WAS STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT AND COULD NOT ACCELERATE. FORTUNATELY, I WAS NEAR A GAS STATION, BUT IF I HAD BEEN ON THE HIGHWAY DRIVING, I WOULD HAVE BEEN IN A SEVERE ACCIDENT. I WAS INFORMED BY THE DEALER THAT THE SHIFT CELLANOID IN THE TRANSMISSION WAS MALFUNCTIONING AND THAT THEY WOULD HAVE TO REPLACE THE VALVE BODY. THE CAR HAS ONLY 20,695 MILES ON IT. SO I AM VERY CONCERNED ABOUT MY SAFETY AND THAT OF OTHERS. AS YOU CAN IMAGINE, THIS CAUSES ME AND MY FAMILY GREAT CONCERN. WE HAVE OWNED VARIOUS MAZDA'S SINCE 2000 AND BEEN VERY HAPPY WITH THEM, BUT HAVE NEVER HAD TO WORRY ABOUT THE CAR MALFUNCTIONING WHILE DRIVING.

WE WERE DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE YESTERDAY, FEBRUARY 15 DURING THE DAY GOING ABOUT 60 MPH, THERE WASN'T ANYONE IN FRONT OR BESIDE US. THE WEATHER WAS PARTY CLOUDY. THERE WAS A LOUD EXPLOSION AND THE SUNROOF BLEW OUT. I DON'T BELIEVE ANYTHING HIT THE SUNROOF TO CAUSE IT TO EXPLODE.

HEADLIGHTS, LOW BEAM. I'VE HAD MY CX-5 TOURING SINCE I BOUGHT IT NEW IN JULY 2013. I ALWAYS NOTICED HOW THE HEADLIGHTS, WHEN TURNED ON, ARE VERY BRIGHT FOR A SPLIT SECOND, THEN INSTANTLY DIMS DOWN LOWER. THIS HAPPENED ALL THE TIME THE FIRST 2 YEARS DRIVING IT. I KNEW IT HAD THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY FOR ROAD ADAPTIVE HEADLIGHTS. SO I THOUGHT IT WAS THE WAY IT SHOULD WORK. ABOUT 2-3 MONTHS AGO, THEY STARTED TO COME ON, AND STAY BRIGHT CONSTANTLY, UNTIL I TURNED THEM OFF THEN ON AGAIN. NOW, THEY WOULD STAY BRIGHT FOR HOURS IF I DON'T TOUCH THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH. THEN WHEN I DO SWITCH THEM TO ANOTHER SETTING; THEY WOULD GO DIMMER AND STAY THERE. AFTER A FEW TIMES DOING THIS, I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO BE CHECKED OUT. AFTER A THOROUGH INSPECTION, THE MECHANIC REPORTED THAT THESE (FACTORY) HEADLAMPS ARE SUPPOSED TO TURN ON HIGH THEN LOW IN A SPLIT SECOND. THIS DOES NOT SOUND LOGICAL TO ME, ESPECIALLY SINCE I SPENT 15 YEARS WORKING IN THE AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRY (FOR OEM SUPPLIERS, AND I ALSO WORKED DIRECTLY WITH FORD, CHRYSLER, MAZDA, OTHERS) FOR A FEW DIFFERENT MAJOR ELECTROMECHANICAL VEHICLE OEM COMPONENTS. UNLESS THERE IS SOMETHING I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THESE HEADLIGHTS, WHY WOULD THEY DO THIS SPLIT SECOND BRIGHT THEN DIM FOR THE FIRST COUPLE YEARS, AND SUDDENLY START STAYING BRIGHT FROM THE TIME I START THE CAR? THEY NOW (ERRATICALLY) STAY BRIGHT AS LONG AS I DON'T TOUCH THE SWITCH ARM. WHEN I DO, THEY COME ON BRIGHT FOR A SPLIT SECOND, THEN DIM DOWN. THIS CONDITION IS ERRATIC, PARKED, IN MOTION, IDLING ETC., I HAVE NOTICED ON POORLY LIT BACK ROADS, THAT THE HEADLIGHTS (WHEN "LOW" WERE NOT ADEQUATE TO SEE THE ROAD, AND IS A SERIOUS ROAD HAZARD. I OFTEN TURN ON THE HIGH BEAMS TO COMPENSATE FOR THE DIM HEADLIGHTS. I CAN SEND THE DEALER INSPECTION REPORT UPON REQUEST. THANK YOU. *TR

WE PARKED OUR CAR OUTDOORS OVERNIGHT ON A QUIET RESIDENTIAL STREET AND RETURNED IN THE MORNING TO FIND A 12" CRACK IN THE FRONT WINDSHIELD. IT STARTED AT THE ROOF LINE, AND CROSS THROUGH THE AREA WHERE THE SAFETY SENSORS ARE LOCATED AND ENDED JUST BELOW WHERE THE REVIEW MIRROR IS ATTACHED. THE CAR WAS STATIONARY ALL NIGHT AND THERE DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE ANY POINT OF IMPACT. THE CAR IS 20 MONTHS OLD. IT APPEARS TO BE A STRESS CRACK, POSSIBLY DUE TO FAULTY PRODUCTION OF THE GLASS OR ITS ATTACHMENT DURING MANUFACTURING.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT ANYTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD, PERSONALLY BELIEVE IT IS STRESS CRACK, HOWEVER, TAKING IT TO A LOCAL MAZDA DEALER DOING A "PEN-TEST", TOLD ME IT WAS CHIPPED AND THAT CAUSED THE CRACK.

KEYLESS DO NOT WORK MOST OF THE TIME. THIS IS BEEN GOING FOR A MONTH. REMY E NC

THE REAR BRAKE PADS ON MY MAZDA CX 5 GRAND TOURING MODEL IS WORN OUT TO (0.2 PER DEALER) AT APPROX 34200 MILES. NOTICED THIS PROBLEM A FEW WEEKS BACK WHEN THE CAR STARTED MAKING A GRINDING NOISE FROM THE REAR. THIS IS VERY UNUSUAL IN MY EXPERIENCE THAT A CAR WHICH IS ABOUT 2 YEARS AND 6 MONTHS OLD NEEDS NEW BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS REPLACED. ON MY OTHER CARS WHICH ARE NISSAN THE BRAKE PADS LASTED FOR ABOUT 5 YEARS (APPROX. 60,000 MILES). I WANT TO RAISE THIS AS A COMPLAINT. MY CAR IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. I WANT MAZDA TO LOOK INTO THIS AND ADVISE ON A FIX. I SEE SO MANY WEBSITES WHERE CX OWNERS ARE FACING THE SAME ISSUE, QUOTING ONE HERE FOR AN EXAMPLE HTTP://WWW.CARCOMPLAINTS.COM/MAZDA/CX-5/2013/BRAKES/SERVICE_BRAKES.SHTML.

THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THE WINDSHIELD ON MY MAZDA CX5 CRACKED WITH ONE YEAR (THE PRIOR INCIDENT OCCURRED IN MARCH 2015)...THIS TIME ALL I HEAR IS A CRACK SOUND AND I SEE AN ATLEAST 12 INCH CRACK ON THE WINDSHIELD WHILE DRIVING. I'M REALLY AFRAID THIS CRACK WILL BREAK THE WINDSHIELD WHILE I'M DRIVING ABOUT AND WILL INJURE MY FAMILY (WITH BABY IN CAR). REPLACEMENT FOR WINDSHIELD IS VERY COSTLY DUE TO RAIN AND CITY SAFETY MONITORING SENSORS ON THE WINDSHIELD....IT'S RIDICULOUS THAT THIS IS HAPPENING AGAIN :(

2 ISSUES SO FAR WITH THIS CAR: 1ST - REAR BRAKES SEIZED UP AFTER 30K CAUSING A TRAIL OF SMOKE TO FOLLOW MY CAR WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY, FOLLOWED BY AN EMERGENCY STOP ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE HUB, ROTOR, BRAKE CALIPER, AND TIRES BECAME SO HOT THAT THE TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR WENT OFF AND UPON INSPECTION, THE TIRE PRESSURE HAD INCREASED FROM 35PSI TO OVER 50PSI (TIRE PRESSURE GAUGE DID NOT GO HIGHER THEN 50) DUE TO HEAT. WAS TOLD THAT DUE TO SALT AND SAND (LIVE IN COLD CLIMATE) CORROSION CAUSED THE ISSUE. REAR BRAKES AND ROTORS REPLACED @ $208.95. CURRENTLY FIGHTING MAZDA FOR A REFUND AS THIS IS CLEARLY COVERED UNDER THE 3 YEAR 36K MILE WARRANTY PER TSB: 04005/15 - SEE WARRANTY SECTION ON 3RD AND 4TH PAGE. I HAD FAMILY IN THE CAR WHEN THIS HAPPENED AND AM WORRIED ABOUT THE LONG TERM SAFETY OF THIS CAR AND IT'S BRAKING SYSTEMS. A REAR TIRE BLOW OUT CAUSED BY THIS ISSUE COULD HAVE CAUSED A FATAL CRASH AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. 2ND - I HAVE REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD ON THIS CAR 5 TIMES NOW IN UNDER 30K MILES. I HAVE BEEN TOLD REPEATEDLY THAT THIS IS DUE TO ROCK CHIPS, BUT TWICE THE CRACK APPEARED OUT OF NO WHERE WHILE THE CAR WAS PARKED IN A TEMP CONTROLLED GARAGE OVERNIGHT. I HAVE NEVER HAD THIS ISSUE WITH ANY OTHER CAR I HAVE EVER OWNED. THE WINDSHIELDS ARE ALWAYS ON A MONTH LONG BACK ORDER AND DRIVING WITH A CRACKED WINDSHIELD IS AGAINST THE LAW, SO EVERY TIME THIS HAPPENS I AM OUT OF A CAR FOR A MONTH AND HAVE TO FORK OVER MONEY FOR A LOANER SO I MAY GET TO WORK. (MAZDA AND INSURANCE COMPANY REFUSE TO OFFER OR PAY FOR MY LOADER CAR, OR I AM TOLD THERE IS NOT ONE CURRENTLY AVAILABLE AND I AM SOL)

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE ENTERING THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT OBSERVED THAT THE WINDSHIELD WAS CRACKED. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED STRESS FRACTURE DUE TO WHAT THE MANUFACTURER BUILT INTO THE WINDSHIELD THAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 12,000.

DRIVER SIDE SEAT STARTED GETTING HOT WHILE DRIVING BUT SWITCH WAS NOT ON. HAD TO STOP CAR AND WAIT FOR SEAT TO COOL OFF. THIS HAS HAPPENED 2 TIMES SO FAR. DEALER SAID THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR.

I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE IN APRIL 2015 AS A NEW VEHICLE LEFT OVER FROM 2014. REPEATEDLY, WHEN DECELERATING, THE ENGINE CONTINUES TO REV HIGHER DESPITE PRESSING THE BRAKE AND KEEPING MY FOOT OFF THE GAS PEDAL. THIS HAPPENS ALL THE TIME AND I'VE BEEN TOLD BY BOTH THE DEALERSHIP AND MAZDA THAT THIS IS HOW THE VEHICLE IS DESIGNED. I FEAR THE VEHICLE WILL NOT SLOW DOWN WHEN NEEDED AS IT FEELS AS IF THE ENGINE IS PUSHING TO INCREASE SPEED WHEN I'M TRYING TO SLOW DOWN. IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS WHEN THE ENGINE GOES INTO OVERDRIVE FOR FAST ACCELERATION SUCH AS ENTERING A HIGHWAY AND THEN A RAPID DECELERATION IS REQUIRED SUCH AS WHEN ENCOUNTERING SUDDEN TRAFFIC. I'VE ALSO NOTICED OTHER ISSUES WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS (BLIND SPOT INDICATORS WORKING INCONSISTENTLY; HD STEREO FADING IN AND OUT; BAD RECEPTION ON STRONG RADIO STATIONS) AND I BELIEVE THEY ARE ALL RELATED TO A BAD COMPUTER. IT SEEMS THE COMPUTER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED SINCE IT CONTROLS ALL ASPECTS OF THE ENGINE'S OPERATION.

BRAKES ARE PREMATURELY FAILING. BRAKES WERE REPLACED AT 12,000MI, 20,000MI AND NOW NEED REPLACING AGAIN. THE ROTORS ARE WARPING CAUSING SEVERE VIBRATIONS WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED. MAZDA DEALERS ARE STATING THAT THE DRIVER IS AT FAULT FOR "TOO MUCH HIGH SPEED BRAKING" AND WILL NOT COVER THE REPAIR OF THE BRAKE SYSTEM. VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY AT 24,XXX MI AND THE SHAKE IS PRESENT AGAIN.

ON 7/23/15, MY KEY FOB WOULDN'T WORK UNLESS I PRESS IT UP AGAINST THE START/STOP BUTTON, THIS HAS HAPPENED A FEW TIME AND I'M NOT TOO WORRIED ABOUT IT. THE ODD THING WAS AFTER IT STARTED AND STILL IN PARK, THE VEHICLE AUTO LOCKED THE DOORS. I DIDN'T THINK TOO MUCH OF IT, I BACKED OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY AS NORMAL AND WENT TO UNLOCK THE DOOR FOR MY WIFE. THE DOOR UNLOCK FUNCTION DIDN'T WORK, IT DIDN'T RESPOND TO MY KEY FOB WITHIN THE VEHICLE OR MY WIFE'S FOB OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. I DECIDED TO PUT THE VEHICLE IN PARK TO SEE IF IT WORK THEN, STILL NO RESPOND TO ALL THREE (DOOR PANEL BUTTON, INSIDE FOB OR OUTSIDE FOB). ONLY AFTER TURNING THE VEHICLE OFF AND BACK ON DID THE LOCK WORK CORRECTLY. I REPORTED IT TO THE DEALER THIS MORNING, AND WAS TOLD THEY HAVE NO IDEA WHAT COULD HAVE CAUSED THIS ISSUE. I FEEL THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE LOOKED INTO AND ADDRESSED.

SEVERAL MONTHS AGO I NOTICED A SMALL CRACK IN THE CENTER OF MY WINDSHIELD JUST BELOW THE REARVIEW MIRROR ON MY 2014 MAZDA CX-5. AT NO POINT HAD ANYTHING HIT MY WINDSHIELD AND THERE WAS NO SIGN OF A ROCK OR A CHIP. I LOOKED UP THE COST OF THE WINDSHIELD ON THE INTERNET AND IT WAS THEN THAT I SAW THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE I AM NOW WAITING ON A REPLACEMENT WINDSHIELD, HOWEVER THERE IS A NATIONAL BACKORDER ON THIS PARTICULAR WINDSHIELD WHICH WOULD ONLY BACK UP MY COMPLAINT THAT THERE IS A LARGER ISSUE.

WHILE SITTING AT A STOP SIGN, WAITING TO MAKE A LEFT TURN ONTO A BUSY 2 LANE 55 MPH HIGHWAY. MY RIGHT FOOT IS ON THE BRAKE WHEN THE ENGINE STARTS TO REV UP FOLLOWED BY A LOUD CLUNK WITH THE CAR JUMPING FORWARD. I THOUGHT I HAD BEEN HIT FROM BEHIND BUT WHEN I LOOKED BACK THERE WAS NO ONE IN SIGHT. I PUT THE TRANSMISSION IN PARK AND EXITED THE CAR TO SEE WHAT HAD HAPPENED. NO SIGN OF ANYONE THAT COULD HAVE CAUSED IT. I RE ENTERED THE CAR AND NOTICED THE ENGINE WAS STOPPED. I TURNED OFF THE IGNITION AND RE-STARTED THE ENGINE. ALL SEEMED NORMAL SO I CONTINUED TO DRIVE HOME VERY CAREFULLY. I AM NOW AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR. WHAT IF IT HAD DUMPED ME OUT ON THAT HIGHWAY?

I HAVE HAD MY CAR FOR JUST OVER A YEAR AND HEARD A GRINDING NOISE ON THE BACK PASSENGER SIDE. HEARING THIS I IMMEDIATELY TOOK IT TO DEALERSHIP WHERE I BOUGHT THE CAR TO GET IT FIXED. THEY TELL ME THAT IT WAS THE BACK REAR BRAKES. I HAVE HAD MY HONDA ACCORD WITH 140,000 MILES AND HAVE ONLY HAD TO GET THE BRAKES CHANGED A HANDFUL OF TIMES THREE TO BE EXACT. THIS ISN'T RIGHT THE COMPANY HAS MADE SOME KIND OF DEFECT IN ORDER FOR THIS TO HAPPEN. PLEASE HELP I HAVE INVESTED $30,000 ON THIS CAR.

TURNING INTO INTERSTATE ENTRANCE RAMP, VEHICLE ACCELERATED NORMALLY UP TO ABOUT 40 MPH, THEN LOST ALL POWER EVEN THOUGH ENGINE RACED. SWITCHED AUTO TRANS TO MANUAL MODE AND DISPLAY WAS BLANK WHERE IT SHOULD HAVE SHOWN CURRENT GEAR. COASTED ONTO SHOULDER AND SHUT OFF IGNITION. .... AFTER A FEW MINUTES, STARTED ENGINE AND ISSUE HAS NOT RECURRED.HAD NOTED A SMELL AS OF BURNING PLASTIC FOR SEVERAL MILES PRIOR TO THIS INCIDENT... FOLLOWING DAY, DEALER FOUND "WHAT LOOKED LIKE CARPET DEBRIS WRAPPED AROUND SPEED SENSORS" AND REMOVED IT. THEY FOUND NO OTHER PROBLEM......CURRENT MILEAGE IS 14,590 AND PROBLEM HAS NOT RECURRED....UPDATED 08/12/15 *BF UPDATED 12/23/2015 *JS

WE HAD BOUGHT A NEW 2015 MAZDA CX-5 IN DEC2014. AFTER ABOUT 2-3 MONTHS & 3500 MILES, A CRACK SUDDENLY APPEARED ON THE VEHICLE WHEN IT WAS PARKED IN A PARKING LOT. THERE WAS NO EVEIDENCE OF CRACK ON THE COMMUTE TO THAT PARKING LOT EARLIER THAT DAY. THERE WAS NO POINT OF IMPACT OR ANY THING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD, THE CRACK HAS GROWING A LITTLE EVERYDAY. DEALER SAYS IT WAS CAUSED DUE TO A POINT OF IMPACT BUT DOESN'T LOOK LIKE IT

THE 2014 MODEL VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED NEW IN AUGUST OF 2013. BETWEEN THAT TIME AND MAY OF 2015 THE WINDSHIELD HAS DEVELOPED SIGNIFICANT CRACKS MULTIPLE TIMES AND IS NOW ON IT'S THIRD REPLACEMENT WINDSHIELD (FOURTH TOTAL, INCLUDING THE FACTORY-INSTALLED WINDSHIELD). EACH TIME THE WINDSHIELD HAS BEEN REPLACED WITH A MAZDA BRAND WINDSHIELD - NOT AN AFTERMARKET BRAND BY SAFELITE.

A CRACK DEVELOPED ON THE WINDSHIELD FROM UNDER THE BOTTOM MOLDING UP 5" AND THEN SPLIT BOTH WAYS ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD, WHILE IT WAS PARKED IN THE DRIVEWAY.

MY WINDSHIELD DEVELOPED A CRACK FROM THE CENTER BOTTOM EDGE OVER NIGHT. IT WAS PARKED IN A GARAGE AS EVERYDAY AND APPEARS TO BE A STRESS CRACK. THE CRACK WAS SIGNIFICANTLY LONG ON THE FIRST DAY ITSELF THAT I HAD TO CHANGE IT.

THE VEHICLE'S DASH STARTED TO RATTLE AND MAKING A CRACKLING SOUND AS VEHICLE IS DRIVEN ON UNEVEN ROADS. THIS IS DANGEROUS DUE TO THE NOISE DESTRUCTING A DRIVER AND THE DRIVER TRYING TO LOCATE THE NOISE. THERE IS MANY PEOPLE WHO DEAL WITH THIS TYPE OF NOISE IN THIS VEHICLE MAKE AND MODEL AND THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE HELD RESPONSIBLE TO FIX THE ISSUE BEFORE IT BECOMES A BIGGER PROBLEM. THIS ISSUE COULD CAUSE SOMEBODY TO LOSE THEIR LIVE BECAUSE THEY WERE DISTRACTED BY THE NOISE THAT IS CAUSED BY A POOR BUILT. *TR

MY WINDSHIELD SUDDENLY CRACKED WHILE I WAS DRIVING. *TR

WHILE DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY AT A NORMAL SPEED, I HEARD A LOUD CRACK HOWEVER SAW NO CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD AT THAT TIME. I WAS NOT DRIVING BEHIND ANY LARGE TRUCKS AND DID NOT SEE ANY ROCK HIT THE WINDSHIELD. THE NEXT MORNING I NOTICED A CRACK EXTENDING DOWN FROM ABOVE THE REARVIEW MIRROR, AND THE CRACK HAS SINCE GROWN AND IS NOW SPREADING LATERALLY ALONG THE WINDSHIELD. THERE IS NO INDICATION THAT THIS WAS CAUSED BY A ROCK IN KNOTS I THINK IT IS A STRESS RELATED INCIDENT. I HAVE READ SEVERAL TIMES THAT THIS HAS BEEN AN ISSUE WITH THESE VEHICLES AND I AM GOING TO GO TO THE DEALER TO DISCUSS IT. *TR

I TOOK MY CAR IN FOR ROUTINE OIL CHANGE, NEW WIPER BLADES AND WHEEL ALIGNMENT. I WAS TOLD BY FIRESTONE MECHANIC THAT I NEEDED BACK BRAKES AND THE CALIPERS ARE "STICKING." I WAS TOLD NOT TO DRIVE THE CAR - IT IS UNSAFE!! WHEN I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP THEY INFORMED ME NOT UNDER WARRANTY?! A CAR -- LESS THAN 2 YEARS OLD WITH 32,000 MILES ON IT NEEDS NEW BACK BRAKES AND CALIPERS??? I THINK NOT! TAKING IT TO THE DEALER ON WEDNESDAY TO CHECK IT OUT IN FULL. NOT HAPPY! IF ABLE TO UPDATE ON HERE, I WILL DO SO. *TR

I WAS DRIVING ON A SIDE STREET AND HEARD A LOUD POP. THERE WERE NO OTHER VEHICLES AROUND ME AT THE TIME AND NOTHING HIT THE WINDSHIELD. A LONG THIN CRACK APPEARED FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD AND SPREAD UPWARDS AND TOWARDS THE DRIVER'S SIDE. A SECOND INCIDENT OCCURRED IN JANUARY 2015, WITH SOMETHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD AND LEAVING A SMALL (QUARTER OF AN INCH IN DIAMETER) STARBURST. AFTER PARKING OUTSIDE ON A WARM 80 DEGREE DAY IN MARCH 2015, I RETURNED TO MY VEHICLE TO FIND THIS STARBURST HAD SPREAD INTO A LONG THIN CRACK ACROSS THE DRIVER'S SIDE. *TR

2014 MAZDA CX5, HEARD A POP AND NOTICED THE WINDSHIELD WAS CRACKED. THE CRACK STARTED FROM THE BASE, CENTER OF WINDSHIELD, AND TRAVELED VERTICAL APPROX 12-15 INCHES. THERE WAS NO ROCK OR GRAVEL STRIKE, NO VISIBLE CHIP. THIS IS A RECURRING ISSUE WITH OTHER MAZDA CX5'S. *TR

BOUGHT A 2014 MAZDA CX-5 BACK IN NOVEMBER 2013.UP UNTIL DECEMBER 2014 AND 33K MILES, NO ISSUES. SECOND WEEK OF DECEMBER, WAS ENTERING THE HIGHWAY AND DECIDED TO ACCELERATE A BIT , GOT UP TO ABOUT 80 MPH AND LET OFF THE GAS.THAT'S WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THE ENGINE LIGHT, TRACTION LIGHT AND TPMS CAME ON.CAR LOST POWER BUT WAS ABLE TO PULL OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY.SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS RUNNING ON 3 CYLINDERS, PUSHING THE GAS PEDAL, CAR WOULDN'T GO. SHUT THE CAR OFF AND ON AND PERFORMED LIKE NORMAL.TOOK IT THE DEALER TO HAVE CHECKED OUT.THEY COULDN'T REPLICATE THE ISSUE AND SAYS IT WAS MY K&N FILTER I HAD, WHICH IS FALSE SINCE I'VE HAD THE FILTER FOR THE LAST 20K MILES ON THE CAR AND ANOTHER 30K ON MY 2012 MAZDA 3.LET IT GO THEN THE FOLLOWING DID IT AGAIN AND BUT THIS TIME IT HAPPENED TWICE IN A ROW AND THE ENGINE LIGHT STAYED ON.GOT THE CODE OF P0301 WHICH IS A CYLINDER 1 MISFIRE ISSUE.TAKE IT BACK AGAIN AND THEY KEEP FOR ALMOST 3 WEEKS. THEY FINALLY GOT THE CAR TO DO SHUT OFF. REPLACED FUEL INJECTOR WITH NO LUCK.ENDED UP REPLACING THE CRANK PULLEY AND BELTS AND SAY IT'S WORKING.THEY ALSO REPLACED THE BATTERY BECAUSE THEY SAID IT DIED AND HAD A BAD CELL.PICK THE CAR ON A TUESDAY EVENING AND SURE FRIDAY MORNING DID IT AGAIN!! ALREADY CALLED MAZDA CUSTOMER SUPPORT AND GOT A CASE NUMBER SET UP. DEALER "SAYS" MAZDA WANTED ME TO TAKE A TECH OUT TO REPLICATE PROBLEM, WHICH THEY CAN, WHY THEY WANT ME TOO, I HAVE NO CLUE. SURE ENOUGH THE DAY I TAKE IT TO THE DEALER, IT DID AGAIN ON MY WAY THERE. TECH SCANS THE CAR, SEES THE SAME CODES AND PRINTS THEM OUT. COULDN'T GET THE CAR TO SHUT OFF AGAIN, SO I WAIT. THE FOLLOWING WEEK, CALL MAZDA CUSTOMER SUPPORT AND SAY THE DEALER SAID NO CODES WERE FOUND, BULLCRAP!! COMPLAINED TO THE DEALER SERVICE MANAGER AND HE "SAYS" THAT MAZDA KNOWS THE PROBLEM, SOFTWARE RELATED BUT NO RELEASE DATE. I'M DONE AND FED WITH MAZDA AND THE DEALER. *TR

CAR WAS DRIVEN TO THE GYM AND PARKED. OWNER ENTERED THE CAR TO RETURN HOME AND NOTICED A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD. CRACK INITIATED UNDER THE DRIVER SIDE SEAL ABOUT HALFWAY UP THE WINDSHIELD AND HAS PROGRESSED HORIZONTALLY OVER 12". NO APPARENT IMPACT OR DEBRIS FOUND ON CAR. APPEARS TO BE CAUSED BY STRESS. FURTHER RESEARCH INTO THIS ISSUE HAS REVEALED MANY OTHER MAZDA CX-5 OWNERS WITH SIMILAR EXPERIENCES. *TR

WAS DRIVING MY 2014 MAZDA CX-5 IN INCLEMENT WEATHER (SNOWING). HIT A SMALL POT HOLE AND HEARD A LOUD CRACK FROM WITHIN THE CAR BUT WAS NOT SURE WHERE IT CAME FROM. WHEN I GOT TO WORK, I CHECKED THE TIRES AND THE EXTERIOR OF THE CAR FOR DAMAGE. THERE WAS NONE. THE NEXT DAY I NOTICED A SIX INCH CRACK IN MY WINDSHIELD, MIDWAY DOWN, STARTING FROM THE FRAME OF THE WINDOW ON THE DRIVERS SIDE, STRAIGHT INWARD. NEEDLESS TO SAY, AS I DRIVE THE CAR MORE AND MORE, THE CRACK IS SLOWLY SPREADING INWARD AND IS NOW ABOUT 16 INCHES LONG. I CONTACTED THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT AT THE DEALER AND AM BRINGING IT IN FOR INSPECTION FOR A DEFECT. I DO NOT RECALL GETTING HIT WITH ANY PEBBLES OR ROCKS AT THE TIME I HIT THE POT HOLE OR THERE AFTER. *TR

WHEN MY WIFE WENT OUT TO THE CAR ON THE MORNING OF 2/24/15, SHE NOTICED A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD. NO SIGN OF ANYTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD. IT WAS A 9 INCH CRACK FROM THE BOTTOM CENTER GOING UP. *TR

IMPACT WAS ON THE MAZDA DRIVER'S SIDE IN FRONT OF THE WHEEL AND INTO THE CAR- MADE A LEFT HAND TURN DID NOT SEE THE APPROACHING VEHICLE TRAVELING 50 MPH AND HIT THE REAR OF VEHICLE. THAT VEHICLE FLIPPED OVER AND INTO THE SNOWBANK OVER 4 LANES. AIRBAGS IN THE MAZDA DID NOT DEPLOY. CONCERNED AS THE PURCHASE OF THE VEHICLE WAS FOR SAFETY. *JS

I APPROACHED A TRAFFIC LIGHT, EARLY IN THE MORNING ON NOV 17, 2014; AND JUST SLOWED MY SPEED TO TURN RIGHT (DID NOT MAKE A COMPLETE STOP) WHEN I TRIED TO ACCELERATE MY CAR, SPEED DID NOT RESPOND AND WAS STUCK BETWEEN 10 TO 30 MPH. THE ENGINE WAS MAKING A HORRIBLE NOISE, THE TACHOMETER WAS GOING CRAZY, GOT SCARED, SO I PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND SHIFT GEAR TO P, WAITED A MINUTE AND SHIFT BACK TO D, BUT CAR DID NOT RESPOND. DROVE ABOUT A MILE AND DECIDED TO PULL OUT AND TURN OFF MY CAR FOR A FEW MINUTES AN RESTARTED FINE. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALER THE SAME DAY. THEY KEPT IT FOR TWO DAYS AND SAID THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG. ON FEB 13, 2015 HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN, BUT THIS TIME I WAS AT A RED LIGHT, WHEN TRIED TO ACCELERATE, CAR DID NOT RESPOND STUCK AT 25 TO 30 MPH. I HAD TO MAKE A U TURN, TO BE ABLE TO GET TO A PARKING LOT. I PARKED AND TURNED OFF ENGINE, RESTARTED THE CAR AND WORKED FINE. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALER AGAIN, THEY KEPT IT A FEW DAYS AND SAID THERE IS NOTHING WRONG. I DO NOT FEEL SAFE DRIVING MY MAZDA ANYMORE, I WAS VERY LUCKY I DID NOT HAVE AN ACCIDENT THE TWO TIMES I HAD THIS PROBLEM! THERE IS DEFINITELY SOMETHING VERY WRONG WITH THE POWER TRAIN OF THIS CAR. *TR

I DIDN'T SEE ANY CRACK. ALL THAT I SAW WAS THAT AFTER I SPRAYED MY WINDSHIELD AND WIPED IT WITH THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS, BEHOLD A 12 INCH LONG CRACK SHOWED UP. SOMEONE TOLD ME IT MAY HAVE OCCURRED WHEN THERE WAS A TINY CHIP. CHECKING THE WHOLE CRACK, THERE WAS NO CHIP. *TR

BOTH THE CAR IN MAR 2014. I REPLACED A WINDSHIELD IN SEPT AS A ROCK CAUSED A CRACK ACROSS THE DRIVER'S SIDE WHILE DRIVING ON A PAVED HIGHWAY. A COUPLE WEEKS LATER WHILE DRIVING BEHIND A TRAILER ON THE FREEWAY I FELT LIKE I WAS GETTING PUMMELED BY ROCKS SO I PULLED INTO THE OTHER LANE. AND NOW, YEP, I HAVE A CHIP IN THE CENTER LOWER WINDSHIELD AS WELL AS OTHER MICRO-CHIPS. I FEEL LIKE I AM CONSTANTLY IN THE LINE OF FIRE. THIS IS VERY DISTURBING AND SCARY TO ME. I NEED TO TAKE A LOOK AT THE ROOF OF THE CAR BECAUSE I HEAR THEM HIT BUT SOMETIMES NOT ALWAYS MY WINDSHIELD. I CAN'T BELIEVE I AM GOING TO HAVE TO DRIVE THIS VEHICLE WITH HAVING TO CONSTANTLY WORRY ABOUT THAT FOR AS LONG AS I HAVE IT. I FEEL LIKE I SHOULD WEAR A HELMET AND PROTECTIVE EYE WEAR. *TR

I WAS PARKING MY MAZDA CX5 IN A SPOT AT A SHOPPING CENTER AND WHEN I TOUCHED THE BRAKE WITH MY RIGHT FOOT AND WENT TO PUSH THE BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE CAR, IT SUDDENLY ACCELERATED FULL SPEED, JUMPING THE CURB AND SMASHING INTO A STOREFRONT. I NOTICED WHEN I STARTED THE CAR (ABOUT A MILE BEFORE THE ACCIDENT), IT WAS MAKING A VROOM SOUND LIKE IT WASN'T TOTALLY GETTING INTO GEAR. I DON'T KNOW IF IT'S A TRANSMISSION, BRAKE OR ACCELERATOR ISSUE - BUT THERE IS DEFINITELY SOMETHING WRONG. I DID NOT HIT THE ACCELERATOR INSTEAD OF THE BRAKE. WHEN I CALLED MAZDA THEY SAID THEY HAD NO REPORTS OF THIS BEING A PROBLEM. PLEASE ADVISE. THANK YOU.

DRIVING ON FREEWAY, HEARD A LOUD POP. WINDSHIELD CRACK VISIBLE AND GREW OVER THE NEXT WEEK TO ABOUT 15INCHES. WINDSHIELD IS COMPLETE LOSS. NO LARGE IMPACT NOTICEABLE, JUST A ALONG CURVING CRACK FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD UP AND TO THE LEFT. *TR

THE HEADLIGHTS OF THIS VEHICLE AT NIGHT AT LOW BEAM ARE VERY DANGEROUS. AT LOW BEAM, A DARK "CURTAIN" APPEARS THAT COVERS APPROXIMATELY THE TOP HALF OF THE WINDSHIELD AT ABOUT EYE LEVEL. THE LIGHTS ILLUMINATE THE ROAD BUT WITH THE CUT OFF AS DESCRIBED. IT IS VERY AWKWARD AND DISTRACTING. TO COUNTERACT, I HAVE TO DUCK MY HEAD DOWN TO TRY TO GET SOME FIELD OF VIEW IN FRONT OF THE VEHICLE WITH SOME PERSPECTIVE. I HAVE NEVER DRIVEN A CAR THAT HAS EXHIBITED ANYTHING LIKE THIS, AND THERE IS NO QUESTION THAT IT IS A MAJOR SAFETY DEFECT. WHEN APPROACHED BY ANOTHER VEHICLE AT NIGHT, THE "CURTAIN" DISAPPEARS BUT THIS IS ITSELF DISTRACTING AND OF CONCERN. MY WIFE TOOK OUR NEW CX-5 TO THE DEALER FOR THE FIRST SERVICE INTERVAL AND TOLD THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT ABOUT THIS EXPERIENCE. THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT ACKNOWLEDGED THAT THIS WAS A BIG SAFETY PROBLEM, AND THAT IT WAS WAITING ON A RESOLUTION. FRANKLY, MAZDA AND THE REGULATORS NEED TO GET THIS FIXED ASAP. THERE IS NO DOUBT THAT SOMEONE OR MANY PERSONS ARE GOING TO BE KILLED. THAT "CURTAIN" APPARENTLY IS NOT A MERE ADJUSTMENT ISSUE SINCE THE VERY GOOD LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP CANNOT FIX IT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE DOOR UNLOCK BUTTON WAS ENGAGED THE DOORS REMAINED LOCKED. AS A RESULT, HER CHILD BECAME LOCKED INSIDE THE VEHICLE AND THE CONTACT HAD TO SHATTER A WINDOW TO GET INSIDE. THE FAILURE RECURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 19,000.

AFTER ONE YEAR OF OWNING MY MAZDA CX-5 2014 MY WINDSHIELD CRACKED. THE CRACK STARTED FROM THE CENTER TOP TO MID SECTION OF WINDSHIELD. I HAVE NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE WITH OTHER VEHICLES. THERE MUST BE A MANUFACTURING ERROR WITH THESE WINDSHIELDS. MAZDA SHOULD REFUND EVERYONE WHO HAS HAD TO REPLACE THEM.

ABOUT AN HOUR INTO MY COMMUTE FROM WORK, STOPPED AT TRAFFIC LIGHT. ACCELERATOR DIDN'T RESPOND AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO REACH FULL SPEED. MAXIMUM SPEED REACHED 5-10 MPH ON A 50 MPH ROAD. SEVERAL WARNING LIGHTS DISPLAYED IMMEDIATELY AND WAS ABLE TO SAFELY PULL OVER ONTO SIDE ROAD. RESTARTED VEH AND ENGINE LIGHT REMAINED ON; ACCELERATOR RESPONDED NORMAL AND WAS ABLE TO GET HOME CAUTIOUSLY. VEH WAS TAKEN TO SERVICE NEXT DAY, ADVISOR EXPLAINED ISSUE HAS BEEN ALERTED ON SERVICE BULLETIN. CURRENTLY WAITING ON TRANSMISSION PARTS. *TR

A VERY SMALL PIECE OF GRAVEL HIT THE LOWER, CENTER OF THE WINDSHIELD. A CRACK STARTED BOTH UP AND DOWN IMMEDIATELY. THE CRACK CURVED BACK TOWARD THE BOTTOM AND STOPPED A FEW DAYS LATER. I HAVE NEVER SEEN SUCH POOR QUALITY GLASS. WHAT WOULD HAPPEN IN AN ACCIDENT? THE MAZDA DEALER SAID THIS REPLACEMENT COULD COST UP TO $1200. FOR ANOTHER CHEEP GLASS REPLACEMENT? *TR

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN I HEARD A POP, I LOOKED ALL OVER THE WINDSHIELD AND I DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING. I DROVE FOR ANOTHER 15 MINUTES AND WHEN I LOOKED TO MY RIGHT I SAW A 6 INCH CRACK THAT STARTED FROM THE EDGE OF THE WINDSHIELD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. IT COULD NOT HAVE BEEN FROM A PEBBLE OR IMPACT BECAUSE AT THE TIME I HEARD THE POP THERE WERE NO CARS OR TRUCKS IN FRONT OF ME. WHEN I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER A COUPLE DAYS LATER TO GET AN OIL CHANGE I ASKED THEM WHAT THEY THINK OF THE CRACK AND THEY SAID THAT IT WAS FROM AN IMPACT AS THERE WAS AN IMPACT POINT ON THE CRACK. THAT SAME DAY I TOOK THE CAR TO A REPAIR SHOP AND IT TOOK THEM A WHILE TO LOOK FOR A REPLACEMENT WINDSHIELD. I DID SOME RESEARCH ONLINE AND APPARENTLY IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING A LOT TO OTHER CX-5 OWNERS. *TR

I AM FILING 2 OF THESE BACK-TO-BACK. WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED AT THE MAZDA DEALER ON TUESDAY LESS THAN 24 HOURS LATER THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED AGAIN. THE TINY ROCK DIDN'T MAKE MUCH OF A SOUND, BUT THE WINDSHIELD IMMEDIATELY CRACKED AND SPIDER-ED ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. I HAVE NEVER HAD A WINDSHIELD CRACK AND NOW HAVE HAD 2 WITHIN 1 WEEK. I WILL ABSOLUTELY NOT REPLACE THIS WITH A MAZDA OEM WINDSHIELD. IN MY OPINION SOMETHING IS QUITE RIGHT WITH THE PARTICULAR LOT OF OEM WINDSHIELDS. *TR

WINDSHIELD DEVELOPED A CRACK NOT FROM A STONE. CAR WAS IN THE GARAGE OVERNIGHT. WHEN I CAME OUT IN THE MORNING I HAD A 1 FOOT LONG CRACK ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DRIVERS SIDE. *TR

MAZDA CX 5 AWD ATM. I STOPPED MY MAZDA CX 5 ON THE STOP LIGHT AND PUT THE GEAR NEUTRAL. WHEN I SWITCHED THE GEAR TO DRIVE, IT DIDN'T UPSHIFTED BUT STAYED ON THE SAME GEAR. IT COULDN'T MAKE MORE THAN 30 MPH WITH RMP SHOOTING UP VERY HIGH. I PULLED IT OVER, STOPPED THE ENGINE , RESTARTED THE ENGINE AND THE PROBLEM WAS GONE. *TR

DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY I HEARD A POP. I SCANNED THE WINDSHIELD FOR A ROCK SHIP. I DIDN'T SEE ANY. ABOUT 3 MINUTES LATER I HEARD A POP AND MY WINDSHIELD CRACKED FROM THE LOWER RIGHT HAND CORNER, 1/2 IN OFF THE SEAL LINE OF HE WINDSHIELD, TO THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD. THERE WAS A LITTLE ROCK CHIP BELOW THE HOOD LINE IN THE WINDSHIELD. *TR

I GOT IN MY CAR TO GO TO WORK AND THE WINDSHIELD WAS FINE. 30 MINUTES LATER I GOT BACK IN THE CAR AND I FOUND A HUGE CRACK ON THE WINDSHIELD PROBABLY 3 FT. LONG STARTING FROM THE EDGE OF THE PASSENGER SIDE TO ALMOST THE MIDDLE OF THE CAR GOING HORIZONTALLY. NO CHIP OR SIGN OF ANY ROCK. IT JUST DEVELOPED IN A MATTER OF A FEW MINUTES. OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE ABOUT 90. *TR

TWO DAYS AGO I WAS DRIVING BY 2014 CX 5 AND HEARD A PEBBLE HIT THE WINDSHIELD. WHEN I ARRIVED AT MY DESTINATION, I CHECKED THE WINDSHIELD AND SAW NO CHIP, NO PHYSICAL DAMAGE. YESTERDAY MORNING WHEN I LEFT THE HOUSE TO GO TO WORK THERE WAS A TWO FOOT LONG CRACK ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. NEEDLESS TO SAY, I NEEDED TO GET THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED. *TR

STONE HIT WINDSHIELD NEAR WIPERS AND DEVELOPED 3 FT CRACK WITHIN 12 HOURSAFTER OWNING THE CAR ONLY 2 MONTHS. REPLACED IT, THEN 9 MONTHS LATER I GET ANOTHER STONE CHIP ON PASSENGER SIDE ABOUT 6 INCHES FROM EDGE. IT DIDN'T CRACK UNTIL SAFELITE TRIED TO REPAIR. IT SPREAD, BUT CRACK STAYED UNDER THE SIZE OF A DOLLAR BILL. 6 MONTHS LATER IT SPREAD AFTER THE CAR SAT OUT IN THE SUN ON A HOT DAY. SO REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD AGAIN. A FEW WEEKS LATER REALIZE THE NEW WINDSHIELD IS DEFECTIVE - BUBBLES ON THE BOTTOM. SAFELITE REPLACES IT UNDER WARRANTY. ONE MONTH LATER I GET A NEW STONE CHIP DEAD CENTER. I'M GETTING IT REPAIRED. LET'S SEE IF THIS ONE SPREADS. SAFELITE CLAIMS CHIPS NEAR WINDSHIELD EDGE TEND TO SPREAD EASILY. I'VE NEVER REPLACED A WINDSHIELD IN ANY OF MY PREVIOUS 3 CARS ('71 VW SUPER BEETLE, '87 ACURA INTEGRA, '98 SUBARU FORESTER), EXCEPT THE LAST ONE AFTER OWNING IT FOR 14 YRS. IT SEEMS TO ME THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE DESIGN OR MAKE OF THESE WINDSHIELDS. *TR

18" WINDSHIELD CRACK DEVELOPED OVERNIGHT FOR NO APPARENT REASON. STARTED FROM TOP CENTER GASKET AND WRAPPED AROUND REAR VIEW MIRROR ATTACHMENT. INTERNET SEARCH REVEALS THAT THIS IS A COMMON EXPERIENCE FOR MAZDA CX-5 OWNERS. *TR

ON THE 4TH DAY OF OWNERSHIP A HORIZONTAL CRACK APPEARED IN WINDSHIELD ORIGINATING FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE WINDSHIELD COLUMN. WITHIN THE FIRST MONTH, A SECOND CRACK ALSO APPEARED ORIGINATING FROM THE CENTER TOP OF THE WINDSHIELD, TRAVELING VERTICALLY. THE WINDSHIELD THEREFORE HAD TO BE REPLACED WITHIN THE FIRST MONTH OF OWNERSHIP. NO ISSUES WITH THE NON-MAZDA WINDSHIELD. *TR

I LEASED A 2014 CX-5 GRAND TOURING IN APRIL 2014. ON 7/21/14 & AT 1800 MILES I NOTICED A LARGE CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD THAT STARTED FROM THE TOP EDGE AND EXTENDED DOWN BELOW THE REAR VIEW MIRROR. WHEN I INSPECTED THE WINDSHIELD FROM THE OUTSIDE I COULD SEE NO ROCK CHIP. ON 7/25/14 I TOOK THE CAR TO H*** BODY & PAINT AND INQUIRED ABOUT REPLACING THE WINDSHIELD. THE TECHNICIAN THERE SAID IT LOOKED LIKE A PRETTY OBVIOUS CASE OF A STRESS CRACK & TOLD ME TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER TO SEE IF THEY WOULD FIX IT. THAT SAME DAY I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP & REPORTED TO THE SERVICE DEPT THAT I HAD A CRACK IN MY WINDSHIELD THAT WASN'T FROM A ROCK CHIP. BUT THE TECH SAID HE COULD SEE THE ROCK CHIP RIGHT AWAY & PERFORMED A "PEN TEST" TO SHOW ME THE ROCK CHIP. HE POINTED THE PEN DIRECTLY TO WHAT HE SAID WAS THE CHIP & I LOOKED AT IT CLOSELY. I SAID, "THAT STILL DOESN'T LOOK LIKE A ROCK CHIP TO ME; IT LOOKS LIKE THE CRACK STARTED FROM THE TOP EDGE UNDERNEATH THE SEAL." THE TECH SAID IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH AT ALL FOR A CRACK LIKE THAT TO START. I COMMENTED THAT MAZDA MUST USE VERY POOR QUALITY WINDSHIELDS THAT CRACK SO EASILY FROM A ROCK CHIP SO TINY THAT I CAN'T EVEN SEE IT, & WITH ONLY 1800 MILES ON IT. THE TECH SAID I WAS WELCOME TO GET A SECOND OPINION ABOUT THE ROCK CHIP BUT THAT THE MAZDA WARRANTY DOESN'T COVER GLASS ANYWAYS. ON 7/28/14 I TOOK THE CAR TO T***GLASS AND INQUIRED ABOUT REPLACING THE WINDSHIELD. THEY QUOTED ME A PRICE NEAR $400. I SAID, "WHOA, THAT'S A LOT OF MONEY JUST BECAUSE OF A TEENY-TINY ROCK CHIP!" THE TECH SAID, "THAT'S NOT A ROCK CHIP, THAT'S A STRESS CRACK." I TOLD HIM, "THE DEALER TOLD ME ON FRIDAY THAT IT'S FROM A ROCK CHIP." THE TECH LOOKED AT THE WINDSHIELD AGAIN AND PERFORMED THE "PEN TEST." HE CAME BACK & SAID, "THERE IS NO ROCK CHIP ON THAT WINDSHIELD." I CONTACTED THE DEALERSHIP MANAGEMENT & THEY AGREED TO DO A "GOOD WILL" REPLACEMENT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT NOTICED A STRONG FUEL ODOR IN THE CABIN OF THE VEHICLE AND STATED THAT THE FUEL TANK EMPTIED PREMATURELY. AFTER INSPECTING THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT DISCOVERED A FUEL LEAK. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE FUEL SENSOR WAS DEFECTIVE, BUT THE ORIGIN OF THE FUEL LEAK COULD NOT BE LOCATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 16,000.

WITHIN A MONTH OF PURCHASING THIS NEW VEHICLE, A FOOT-LONG VERTICAL CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD DEVELOPED FROM THE SENSOR BOX DOWNWARDS. (AND SPREAD EXTRAORDINARILY QUICKLY FROM THERE.) I WAS DENIED REPLACEMENT BY THE DEALER BECAUSE THEY CLAIMED THERE WAS A CHIP IN THE WINDSHIELD CAUSED BY A SMALL ROCK, THOUGH I DON'T RECALL HITTING ONE. *TR

ROCK CHIP IN WINDSHIELD, THEN SPLIT INTO FOOT LONG CRACK FROM DRIVER'S SIDE A PILLAR. *TR

MY BRAND NEW MAZDA CX5 HAS A DEFECTIVE WINDSHIELD. I CAME OUT ONE DAY, TO FIND AN "S" SHAPED CRACK, WHICH STARTS JUST BELOW THE RAIN SENSOR. PLEASE MAKE MAZDA RECALL AND FIX THESE. THERE ARE NUMEROUS, AS IN 1000'S OF INCIDENTS OF THIS OCCURRING. EITHER THE RAIN SENSOR IS CAUSING PRESSURE WHICH MAKES IT CRACK, OR THE WINDSHIELD IS UNSAFE AND TOO THIN. I HAVE READ STORIES OF PEOPLE PUTTING IN THEIR 2ND ONE ALREADY, ON A BRAND NEW CAR. WHAT IS GOING ON!? MAZDA? I HAVE BEEN LOYAL FOR 20 YEARS. JUST PAID OVER $30K FOR MY NEW ONE, AND THIS.... WHEN I CALLED THE DEALER, I WAS TOLD IT WAS NOT A WARRANTY ISSUE. YES IT IS, WITH 1000'S OF COMPLAINTS, THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL! *TR

FOUND CRACK IN WINDSHIELD UNKNOWN IF IT WAS HIT BY AN OBJECT. HAD TO REPLACE WIND SHIELD. *TR

I AM READING COMPLAINTS ABOUT WINDSHIELDS ON A 2014 MAZDA CX5 AND HAVE A SIMILAR COMPLAINT. WHEN I GOT INTO MY CAR IN THE MORNING TO HEAD TO WORK I NOTICED A LARGE CRACK (ABOUT 2 FEET) IN THE WINDSHIELD. IT HAPPENED OVERNIGHT. I INSPECTED THE WINDSHIELD AND NOTICE A SMALL, SMALL CHIP THE SIZE OF A PIN PRICK ON THE LEFT DRIVER SIDE. SOMEHOW THE SMALL CHIP CAUSED A LARGE CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD. *TR

I HAVE OWNED MY 2014 CX-5 FOR LESS THAN FIVE MONTHS AND HAVE HAD TO REPLACE MY WINDSHIELD TWO TIMES ALREADY DUE TO "CHIPS" IN THE WINDSHIELD. I HAVE ALSO HAD TO HAVE A CHIP REPLACED AS WELL. THE FIST OCCURRENCE IS WHEN A LARGE CRACK APPEARED IN MY WINDSHIELD AFTER BEING PARKED IN MY PARENTS DRIVEWAY. THE CRACK STARTED FROM THE LEFT SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD AND ACROSS MEASURING APPROXIMATELY 12 INCHES IN LENGTH. I IMMEDIATELY CALLED THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I PURCHASED THE CAR AND SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT. THE SERVICE MANAGER PERFORMED THE "PEN TEST" AND INFORMED ME THAT THE DAMAGE WAS DUE TO A CHIP FROM DEBRIS. I STATED THE CAR WAS PARKED IN A DRIVEWAY AND THERE TO THE NAKED EYE THERE WAS NO CHIP MARK WHATSOEVER. NEEDLESS TO SAY THEY DID NOT COVER IT AND I PROCEEDED WITH A CLAIM TO MY INSURANCE. THEN JUST LAST WEEK I HAD ANOTHER CHIP OCCUR IN THE WINDSHIELD WHICH WAS REPAIRED BY SAFELITE AUTO GLASS. NOW JUST THIS PAST SUNDAY I AM DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AND HEAR A LOUD POP SOUND. NEXT THING I NOTICE IS A COMMA LIKE CRACK IN MY WINDSHIELD. IN LESS THAN ONE HOUR, THE CRACK HAD SPREAD UP AND ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD BEYOND YOUR TYPICAL CHIP REPAIR. SO AGAIN TODAY I JUST HAD MY SECOND WINDSHIELD INSTALLED IN LESS THAN FIVE MONTHS! MY CONCERN IS NOT ONLY THE QUALITY OF THE CX-5 WINDSHIELDS BUT THE SAFETY OF THE CAR FOR NOT ONLY MYSELF BUT MY FAMILY AT THIS POINT. WITH ALL THE OTHER COMPLAINTS LISTED ON THIS WEBSITE AND OTHER SITES, WHY ISN'T ANYTHING BEING DONE TO INVESTIGATE THIS SERIOUS ISSUE WITH MAZDA AND THEIR WINDSHIELDS? HOW MANY MORE COMPLAINTS WILL IT TAKE BEFORE AN INVESTIGATION IS STARTED? AS A FIRST TIME MAZDA OWNER I AM CONCERNED IF I WILL MAKE IT THROUGH THE FIRST YEAR WITHOUT ANOTHER WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT. I AM ALSO EQUALLY CONCERNED HOW LONG MY INSURANCE COMPANY WILL CONTINUE TO PAY FOR THEM AS WELL. *TR

MY CAR WAS PARKED AT THE HOUSE FOR COUPLE OF WEEKS WHILE I WAS AWAY. WHEN I GOT BACK HOME THE WINDSHIELD HAD ABOUT FOOT LONG HORIZONTAL CRACK. IT WAS GOING ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD FROM THE DRIVER SIDE TO ABOUT THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD, AND KEPT SPREADING. SINCE THE CRACK IS ON MY EYE LEVEL IT IS OBSTRUCTING THE VIEW. NOT SURE IF THE REASON WAS POORLY DESIGNED WINDSHIELD OR STRUCTURE OF THE VEHICLE. *JS

UPON ENTERING THE VEHICLE AND STARTING CAR IN THE MORNING, WE HEARD A "POP" AND SAW A CRACK SHOOT DOWN FROM THE TOP CENTER OF SEAL DOWN TO MIDDLE OF SMART BRAKING SYSTEM UNIT BEHIND REAR-VIEW MIRROR. THERE, IT STARTS AN S-LIKE SERPENTINE PATH THAT ENDS UP IN THE DRIVERS FIELD OF VIEW. THERE IS NO VISIBLE CHIP ALONG THE PATH OF THE CRACK.THE VEHICLE WAS NOT IN MOTION AND WE WITNESSED THE CRACK OCCUR. THE MAZDA SERVICE MGR SAYS IT'S DUE TO ROAD DEBRIS HIT, BUT THERE IS NO VISIBLE CHIP. HIS "PEN" TEST SIMPLY HIT A MINUTE FRAGMENT THAT WAS POPPED OUT DUE TO THE GLASS CRACKING ITSELF, NOT FROM A DEBRIS HIT. I HAD A SAFELITE TECHNICIAN INSPECT IT AND THEY CONCLUDE IT WAS NOT CAUSED BY A DEBRIS HIT. IMO, THIS IS CLEARLY A MANUFACTURER'S DEFECT THAT MAZDA SHOULD BE ADDRESSING CONSIDERING THERE ARE MANY OTHER COMPLAINTS WITH THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM BOTH HERE AND IN OTHER INTERNET FORUMS. *TR

LEFT SIDE TRIM PIECE ON THE REAR BY THE TIRES SUDDENLY CAME OFF WHILE DRIVING OVER BENICIA BRIDGE ON A BIT OF WIND GUST. AFTER THAT INCIDENT HAPPENED EXITED AND INSPECTED IT IF I HIT ANY DEBRIS AND THERE WAS NO DAMAGE JUST CAME OFF SUDDENLY. *TR

DRIVING ON A GRAVEL ROAD AT LOW SPEED WHEN A PIECE OF DEBRIS KICKED UP FROM AN ONCOMING VEHICLE (ALSO ABOUT 25 MPH) CRACKED THE WINDSHIELD. A STARBURST APPEARED, APPROXIMATELY THE DIAMETER FOR A US PENNY. APPROXIMATELY TWO HOURS LATER, THE CRACK SUDDENLY BURST TO BEING 14-15" LONG AND DRAMATICALLY AFFECTING DRIVER VISIBILITY. I HAVE NEVER HAD A WINDSHIELD SUDDENLY POP LIKE THAT FROM A ROCK CHIP. *TR

LESS THAN A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO I WAS DRIVING AND A ROCK OR SOMETHING HIT THE CORNER OF THE WINDSHIELD (SOUNDED LITTLE I MIGHT ADD ) A LINE THAT LOOKED LIKE MILK STARTED MOVING ACROSS MY LINE OF VIEW. IT CRACKED ABOUT A 1/2 OF A FOOT LATER IN THE DAY IT EXTENDED TO ABOUT A FOOT AND A HALF. . AGAIN JUST A FEW DAYS AGO (CAR IS 1YEAR 1 MO OLD) THE SAME THING HAPPENED! IT SOUNDED LIKE A SMALL PEBBLE THAT HIT THE WINDSHIELD AND YET IT MANAGED TO CRACK 1/2 FOOT ONLY THIS TIME ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE. I'VE BEEN DRIVING FOR OVER 30 YEARS AND I'VE NEVER HAD THIS HAPPEN ESPECIALLY TWO TIMES WITHIN ONE YEAR YOU WOULD THINK TO CRACK A WINDSHIELD LIKE THAT, IT WOULD TAKE A HARD-HIT. NOT ONLY THAT ..BUT THE FIRST THREE OF FOUR MONTHS I HAD THE CAR TWO CHIPS WERE NOTICED AT THE CAR WASH NEAR THE TOP. I HAD TO CHECK FOR MYSELF I DIDN'T BELIEVE IT. *TR

ON JULY 4, 2014, APPROXIMATELY 10:15 P.M., I WAS DRIVING ABOUT 35 MPH WHEN THE ENGINE RPMS WERE FAR ABOVE THE SPEED I WAS TRAVELING. I LET OFF THE ACCELERATOR, COASTING DOWN A HILL. AT THE BOTTOM OF THE HILL WAS AN INTERSECTION. AFTER A BRIEF STOP FOR TRAFFIC, I PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR. THE ENGINE RESPONDED AND THE POWER TRAIN OR TRANSMISSION DID NOT. I MOVED THE SHIFT LEVER TO NEUTRAL AND BACK TO DRIVE; THE RESULT WAS THE SAME. I THEN TRIED MOVING THE SHIFT LEVER TO M FOR MANUAL. THE M SHOWED BUT NO GEAR WAS INDICATED. I MOVED THE SHIFT TO NEUTRAL AND HAD THE CAR PUSHED TO A PARKING LOT. I MOVED THE SHIFT TO REVERSE AND THE REVERSE WORKED. I MOVED THE SHIFT BACK TO BOTH DRIVE (D) AND M AND AGAIN THE CAR ENGINE ACCELERATED BUT THE TRANSMISSION DID NOT ENGAGE. I SHUT THE CAR OFF A COUPLE OF MINUTES. WHEN I STARTED THE CAR BACK UP, R WORKED, THEN D WORKED. I BEGAN TO DRIVE AGAIN AND THE TRANSMISSION RESPONDED SLUGGISHLY AT FIRST BUT THEN STARTED TO OPERATE NORMALLY THROUGH CITY AND HIGHWAY SPEEDS. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER FOR SERVICE ON JULY 5 AND EXPLAINED THE SITUATION. I ALSO EXPLAINED HISTORY, INCLUDING FROM MAY 2014 WHEN I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN FOR SERVICE AT JUST OVER 5000 MILES. I EXPLAINED AT THAT TIME THAT THERE WAS ONE INCIDENT WHEN I WAS TRAVELING 65 MPH IN A 75 MPH ZONE, WITH THE ACCELERATOR TO THE FLOOR AND THE CAR WOULD NOT GO FASTER. ANOTHER CX5 PASSED ME ON THE HIGHWAY EVEN THOUGH I WAS TRAVELING ALONE AND THE OTHER VEHICLE HAD MORE PASSENGERS. ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE CAR ENGINE WILL RACE BEYOND THE SPEED I AM GOING WHEN IN D FOR DRIVE. ADDITIONALLY, THE CAR REGULARLY HESITATES TO PICK UP SPEED WHEN THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED. THE DEALER SERVICE DEPARTMENT CHECKED IN MAY 2014 AND SAID THEY FOUND NOTHING AND THE THINGS I WAS EXPERIENCING WERE NORMAL FOR "SKYACTIVE" TECHNOLOGY. *TR

MAZDA CX-5 HAS A CRACKED WINDSHIELD, WHILE DRIVING THE PRIOR DAY, NOTHING HIT THE WINDSHIELD. THE NEXT MORNING THERE WAS ABOUT A 12" CRACK ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WINDSHIELD. *TR

ONE YEAR AND ONE MONTH AFTER PURCHASE OF MY CX-5, THE WINDSHIELD BEGAN TO CRACK DOWN THE DIRECT CENTER OF THE WINDSHIELD, IN LINE WITH THE RAIN SENSOR AND REAR VIEW MIRROR, TO THE CENTER OF THE WINDSHIELD. OVER THE NEXT WEEK, AS I DISCUSSED TERMS WITH INSURANCE AND MAZDA DEALERSHIP TO UNDERSTAND IF WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT WAS UNDER WARRANTY, THE CRACK GREW IN A J RETREATING BACK TO THE TOP OF THE WINDSHIELD. IN LENGTH, THE CRACK EXTENDS BETWEEN 10 AND 20 INCHES AT THIS POINT IN TIME AND TECHNICIANS AT SAFELIGHT REPAIR HAVE ENCOURAGED ME TO CONTACT MAZDA REGARDING THIS STRESS FRACTURE THAT DID NOT OCCUR WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS MOVING. THE VALUE OF REPLACEMENT HAS BEEN ESTIMATED TO BE $800 BY TWO SALES REPRESENTATIVES, INDICATING A HEAVY PRICE TO PAY FOR A PART REPLACEMENT ON A LESS THAN 1 YEAR OLD VEHICLE. PLEASE HELP REDUCE THE COST OF THIS REPLACEMENT AND THE FUTURE REPLACEMENTS SHOULD THE STRESS FRACTURE HAPPEN AGAIN AS OTHER RESPONSES ON THE FORUM TESTIFY. THANK YOU. *TR

WITHIN THE FIRST 5 DAYS AFTER PURCHASING THIS VEHICLE A SMALL CRACK APPEARED IN THE LOWER LEFT (DRIVER) SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD WHICH, BEFORE WE GOT HOME, HAD STRETCHED ACROSS THREE QUARTERS OF THE ENTIRE WIDTH OF THE GLASS. IN ORDER TO REGISTER THE VEHICLE WITH THE US DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE TO ACCESS MILITARY INSTALLATIONS, WE HAD TO HAVE THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED TO COMPETITION WITH SAFETY STANDARDS. WITHIN FIVE DAYS OF REPLACING THE WINDSHIELD, ANOTHER CRACK FORMED IN THE SAME PLACE AND EXTENDED INTO THE FIELD OF VIEW OF THE DRIVER. *TR

NOT EXACTLY SURE HOW THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED, BUT I WAS CLEANING UP THE CAR AND WENT INSIDE FOR A FEW MINUTES. WHEN I RETURNED I NOTICED TWO CRACKS COMING FROM THE TOP PART OF THE WINDSHIELD. THE CRACKS ARE ABOUT 12 INCHED LONG. IT WAS NOT A PARTICULARLY HOT DAY AND I HAD THE DOORS TO THE CAR OPEN MOST OF THE TIME. WE HAVE THE TOURING PACKAGE ON OUR CX-5 SO ITS A SPECIAL WINDSHIELD THAT NEEDS TO BE ORDERED, NOT A QUICK FIX. WE HAVE ABOUT 12,000 MILES ON THECAR. *TR

WHEN I GOT IN MY CAR I NOTICED A MARK IN THE CENTER OF ON MY WINDSHIELD JUST UNDER THE REAR VIEW MIRROR. I REALIZED IT WAS A CRACK AND WHEN I GOT OUT TO INSPECT IT DISCOVERED THAT IS WAS ABOUT 6 INCHES. IT WAS HIDDEN FROM THE INSIDE BY ALL THE REAR VIEW MIRROR ATTACHMENTS. I COULDN'T LOCATE WHERE SOMETHING HAD HIT THE WINDSHIELD. THE SAFELITE TECH WHO CAME OUT TO SEE IF IT NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED OR REPLACED SAID SHE HAD NEVER SEEN SUCH A CLEAN CRACK AND SAID IT WAS TOO LARGE TO REPAIR. I WAS UNABLE TO GET IT REPLACED BEFORE GOING OUT OF TOWN FOR SEVERAL WEEKS. WHEN I GOT BACK THE CRACK HAD GROWN ANOTHER 12 INCHES JUST WHILE SITTING OUTSIDE. IT WAS IN THE SUN FOR PART OF EACH DAY. THE TECHNICIAN WHO REPLACED MY WINDSHIELD RAN A BALL POINT PEN DOWN THE CRACK AND IT DID HIT A SPOT THAT APPARENTLY WAS FROM SOMETHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD, BUT YOU COULDN'T SEE IT JUST BY LOOKING. THE NUMBER OF INSTANCES OF THIS HAPPENING MAKES IT APPEAR THAT MAZDA IS MANUFACTURING INFERIOR WINDSHIELDS. I HAVE NEVER SEEN OR HEARD OF A WINDSHIELD THAT WOULD CRACK THAT RAPIDLY OR CLEANLY. *JS

MY CAR WAS PARKED IN A DRIVEWAY FOR A COUPLE MINUTES AFTER BE DRIVEN FOR 30 MINUTES WITH THE A/C ON. THE WINDSHIELD WAS NOT IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT. WHEN I SPRAYED THE TOP OF THE CAR WITH A SMALL AMOUNT OF WATER THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE TOP AND MADE THREE CRACKS DOWN ABOUT 12-16 INCHES LONG EACH. I HAVE DONE THIS WITH MANY CARS THAT HAVE SAT IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT LONGER THAN THIS ONE WAS SITTING THERE AND NEVER HAD THIS ISSUE BEFORE. THEN WHEN I WENT TO GET MY REPLACEMENT, AFTER WAITING 2 WEEKS, THE DEALERSHIP INFORMED THE PLACE I WAS GETTING IT DONE THAT IT HAD ARRIVED BROKEN TO THEIR FACILITY AND IT WOULD BE ANOTHER WEEK BEFORE I COULD GET ANOTHER ONE. EVEN THE WORKER AT THE GLASS PLACE SAID THAT THESE WINDSHIELDS ARE EXTREMELY THIN. THERE IS OBVIOUSLY A HUGE PROBLEM IF EVEN THE DEALERSHIP CAN'T SHIFT IT WITHOUT IT GETTING BROKEN. *TR

I WAS HEADING HOME FOR LUNCH WHEN AS I TURNED ON TO MY ROAD I HEARD A POP BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING. ONCE I GOT HOME I INSPECTED THE CAR WHEN I SAW THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED. THE CAR HAD JUST CAME OUT IN MY TOWN N I WAS THE SECOND ONE TO BE DRIVING ONE. ONLY HAD IT FOR 2 DAYS. WHEN I RETURNED TO THE COMPANY THEY SAID I HAD TO PAY FOR A NEW WINDOW WHICH SINCE IT WAS TOO EARLY FOR AFTERMARKET COMPANIES TO MAKE ONE HAD TO BUY THEIR $800.00 WINDSHIELD. EXTREMELY UPSET BECAUSE THIS NEVER HAPPENED TO MY PASS 2 VEHICLES FOR NO REASON. *TR

IN ABOUT ONE YEAR AND 12,000 MILES THIS IS THE SECOND CRACKED WINDSHIELD I HAVE HAD. THIS TIME I WAS DRIVING AND HEARD A POP. ONE MINUTE LATER, THERE WAS A CRACK AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD. NO HITS BY A ROCK, NOTHING. THIS IS AN STRUCTURAL PART OF THE CAR THAT IS FAILING CONSTANTLY, ACCORDING TO OTHER MAZDA OWNERS AND MAZDA IS LOOKING THE OTHER WAY AND DENYING THAT THEY HAVE A PROBLEM. AS SOMEBODY HAS SAID, IT IS PROBABLE THAT IN ORDER TO SAVE WEIGHT THEY MADE THE WINDSHIELD TOO THIN, AND IT FAILS AFTER A FEW MONTHS OF SERVICE DUE TO EXCESSIVE STRESS. WHEN YOU GO TO THE DEALER, THEY RUN THE "PENCIL TEST", AN IDIOTIC WAY TO TEST STRESS AND THEY TELL YOU THAT A ROCK HIT YOUR CAR. *TR

ON 2014 MAZDA CX-5, I HAVE CRACKED 3 WINDSHIELDS IN 11 MONTHS. THE FIRST AFTER ONLY 3 WEEKS ON THE ROAD, LESS THEN 800 MILES ON THE CAR. THE SECOND AT 7 MONTHS, APPROX. 11,000 MILES, AND THE THIRD AT 11 MONTHS, 22,000 MILES. DRIVING THE EXACT SAME ROUTE FOR 14 YEARS AND ONLY CRACKED ONE WINDSHIELD BEFORE, IN A CONSTRUCTION ZONE. THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE DESIGN OF THE WINDSHIELD OR THE CAR. I HAVE ASKED THE DEALER, BUT THEY WON'T SAY ANYTHING, SO THAT IS WHY I AM CONTACTING YOU. I DON'T HAVE VIN HANDY RIGHT NOW, BUT CAN GET IT WITH A FEW MINUTES NOTICE. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH, THE GEAR SHIFTER BUTTON FAILED. THE BUTTON WOULD DISENGAGE THE GEAR SHIFTER FROM DRIVE TO NEUTRAL. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR A DIAGNOSIS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 2,500 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 3,000.

LAST YEAR JUST AFTER A MONTH OF OWNERSHIP I WAS STOPPED AT TRAFFIC LIGHT. THE ENGINE BEGAN TO RACE AND THEN SLAMMED SO HARD THE BRAKES SQUEALED. IT FELT LIKE I HAD BEEN REAR ENDED. I PUT THE VEHICLE INTO PARK, SHUT IT OFF AND GOT OUT TO INSPECT MY VEHICLE. THE PERSON BEHIND ME WAS NOT CLOSE ENOUGH TO COME IN CONTACT WITH MY VEHICLE AND THERE WAS NO DAMAGE. MY PASSENGERS AND MYSELF WERE SHOCKED BY THE FORCE. I ASSOCIATED THIS EVENT WITH THE VEHICLE BEING BRAND NEW AND MAYBE SOMETHING JUST GOT STUCK. THE SUV AT THIS TIME HAS LESS THAN 500 MILES ON IT. DURING THIS PAST WINTER I AM STARTING TO NOTICE THE VEHICLE HESITATING AT TIMES AND A STRANGE CLUNK SOUND IN THE REAR END. IT HESITATES OFTEN BUT THE CLUNK SOUND IS RANDOM. AGAIN ON MAY 4,2014 I WAS STOPPED IN TRAFFIC ON A BUSY HIGHWAY AND THE ENGINE BEGAN TO RACE THE VEHICLE THEN SLAMMED WITH ENOUGH FORCE TO MAKE THE BRAKES SQUEAL AND JERK THE PASSENGERS AND MYSELF FORWARD. WITH THIS NOW HAPPENING A SECOND TIME I AM FEARFUL TO DRIVE THIS VEHICLE. I DO NOT FEEL SAFE. *TR

CAR WAS PARKED AT WORK AND CAME OUTSIDE TO FIND A CRACK DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD FROM THE UPPER FRAME DOWN APPROXIMATELY 16 INCHES AND THEN CURVING BACK UP. I BROUGHT THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP TO INSPECT THE CRACK AND WAS TOLD IT WAS CAUSED BY A ROCK BUT THERE WAS NO SIGN OF IMPACT. AT THE TIME OF REPLACEMENT BY SAFELITE, DURING INSPECTION PRIOR TO REMOVAL, I WAS TOLD IT WAS ABSOLUTELY A STRESS FRACTURE AND NOT ROCK DAMAGE, INDICATING A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. THE VEHICLE HAD APPROXIMATELY 1300 MILES ON IT AT TIME OF INCIDENT. THIS IS A FACTORY DEFECT AND MAZDA IS NOT TAKING RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE ISSUE. *TR

THE FIRST INCIDENT WAS WHEN I STARTED THE ENGINE, THE ENGINE WARNING LIGHT AND ALL OTHER WARNING LIGHTS(SBC, ABS, ETC.) CAME ON. I CALLED THE MAZDA SERVICE FOR AN APPOINTMENT SEVERAL DAYS LATER AND I WENT TO SERVICE FOR A PROBLEM, THE GUY WHO IN CHARGE TOLD ME SINCE THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME OFF WE CAN'T DO ANYTHING. SO THEY JUST DID CHANGE MY OIL AND LEFT. SECOND TIME HAPPENED WITH SAME PROBLEM, I WENT TO MY BUDDY(MECHANIC) AT OTHER CAR SERVICE HE TOLD ME THE GUY TOLD ME WAS WRONG BECAUSE EVERY CAR HAS A COMPUTER CHIP THAT RECORDS EVERY PROBLEM. ANYWAY, MY BUDDY DIAGNOSED MY MAZDA CX-5 AND TOLD ME THAT MY CAR HAS A BAD OR WEAK TRANSMISSION SIGNAL THAT CAUSED THE ENGINE SHUT OFF SO I WENT TO MAZDA SERVICE FOR SECOND TIME WITH SAME PROBLEM, THEY DIAGNOSED AND TOLD ME THAT IT WAS THE WEAK TRANSMISSION SIGNAL SO THEY HAD TO REPROGRAM IT. ON APRIL 26, 2014, APPROXIMATELY 5:00AM I WAS DRIVING ON HWY. ABOUT 60 MPH AND SUDDEN ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS INCLUDE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON BUT THIS TIME ENGINE DIDN'T SHUT OFF BUT TRANSMISSION HAD NO CONTROL TO ITSELF. I WAS SO SCARE AND ALL MY FRIENDS WHO WERE WITH ME GOT SCARED ALSO BECAUSE IT WAS RAINING HARD EARLY MORNING. I HAD TO PULL OVER TO SERVICE ROAD THEN I MADE A COMPLETED STOP BUT THE TRANSMISSION DIDN'T START WITH 1ST GEAR. IT FELT LIKE IT STUCK ON 6TH GEAR SO I HAD TO PRESS ACCELERATOR ALL THE WAY TO KICK TO IT. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME HAPPEN TO ME I DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH MY CX-5. I TOOK IT TO THE THIRD TIME SERVICE FOR SAME PROBLEM ON APRIL 28, 2014. I'VE NEVER HAD THIS KIND OF PROBLEM FOR ANY OTHER CARS THAT I'VE EVER DRIVEN SPECIALLY A BRAND NEW CAR. ANYONE WHO HAS BOUGHT CX-5 HAVE SAME PROBLEM SHOULD MAKE A COMPLAINT. *JS

WINDSHIELD CRACK FOR NO APPARENT REASON RIGHT SIDE CENTER RUNNING 1 FOOT 1/2 TOWARD CENTER. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 5 MPH, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED WITHOUT ANY WARNINGS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 1,500.

FRONT WINDSHIELD CRACKED WHILE PARKED IN GARAGE. CRACK SEEMS TO START FROM THE TOP CENTER UNDER THE SENSOR BOX. NO EVIDENCE OF A ROCK CRACK. DEFECT OR STRESS FROM THE EQUIPMENT BOX UNDER THE WINDSHIELD. *JS

ON 3/31/2014 I TEST DROVE A 2014 MAZDA CX5 AT A NEARBY DEALER. WHEN COMING UP AN ONRAMP TO A 4 LANE DIVIDED HIGHWAY THE CAR LOST ALL POWER. ROADS WERE DRY WITH GOOD VISIBILITY. THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING BUT NO POWER WAS TRANSFERRED TO THE WHEELS. PRESSING THE ACCELERATOR HAD NO EFFECT. I WAS ATTEMPTING TO MOVE OUT OF TRAFFIC AS I WAS ALMOST STOPPED WHEN THE POWER RETURNED. THIS WAS NOT A HESITATION IT WAS A TOTAL LOSS OF POWER AND HAD I BEEN IN NOSE TO TAIL CITY DRIVING I WOULD HAVE CAUSED AN ACCIDENT. BELIEVING THAT THIS WAS A DEFECT IN THIS PARTICULAR CAR I BOUGHT A DIFFERENT CX5. THE CAR PERFORMED FLAWLESSLY FOR ABOUT 60 MILES, BUT TWO DAYS LATER I HAD AN INCIDENT JUST LIKE THE ONE DESCRIBED PREVIOUSLY, THIS TIME ON A US HIGHWAY WHERE I DID HAVE TO MOVE ONTO THE SHOULDER AND STOP. CONDITIONS AGAIN WERE AS DESCRIBED ABOVE. THIS TIME THE INCIDENT WAS MORE EXTENDED WITH TWO MORE LESS SEVERE INCIDENTS BEFORE I ARRIVED HOME. I CONTACTED THE DEALER AND ASKED THEM TO COME TO PICK UP THE CAR AS I DID NOT FEEL SAFE DRIVING IT. THEY WERE NOT ABLE TO REPLICATE THE PROBLEM AND ANALYSIS SHOWED NO REMARKABLE CODES. I FINALLY DISSOLVED THE DEAL FEELING THAT I COULD NEVER FEEL SAFE AND SECURE IN THIS VEHICLE. THE FACT THAT IT OCCURRED IN TWO DIFFERENT VEHICLES WAS TOO MUCH FOR ME TO TRUST THIS MODEL. I PURCHASED A DIFFERENT BRAND. IF THIS IS IN FACT IS A TRANSMISSION FAILURE IT IS SURE TO CAUSE AN ACCIDENT IN THE FUTURE. *TR

WIPERS FREEZE IN RESTING PLACE DURING INTERMITTENT USE IN FREEZING WEATHER. THE DEFROSTER MELTS SNOW ON WINDSHIELD, BUT DOES NOT ADEQUATELY WARM THE WIPER RESTING PLACE. THE RESULT IS THAT, WHEN USED, THE WIPERS GET WET AND WHEN THEY RETURN TO THEIR RESTING POSITION THEY FREEZE TO THE WINDSHIELD. DRIVER MUST STOP AND EXIT VEHICLE TO FREE WIPERS TO GET THEM TO WORK. THE PROBLEM HAPPENS WITH VEHICLE AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE WITH DEFROSTER AT MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE AND FAN SETTING. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD BECAUSE OF REDUCED VISIBILITY, AND THE HAZARDS ASSOCIATED WITH ROADSIDE STOPS DURING WINTER DRIVING CONDITIONS. *TR

I DON'T RECALL THE EXACT DATE, BUT IT WAS DURING THE WINTER OF 2013/2014 (I THINK IT WAS THE 1/30/14 SNOW STORM). THE SNOW WAS COMING DOWN HEAVY AND WET AND MY DEFROSTER AND WIPERS COULD NOT KEEP THE WINDOW CLEAR OF ICE BUILD UP AS I WAS DRIVING TO WORK. THE ICE BUILD UP STARTED IN THE LOWER LEFT CORNER AND QUICKLY BUILT ITS WAY UPWARDS WHERE IT WAS COVERING THE WINDOW IN MY LINE OF SITE. AS IT BUILT UP HIGHER, I STRUGGLED TO SEE CLEARLY OUT OF THE WINDOW. MY SPEED DRIVING TO WORK THIS DAY PROBABLY RANGED FROM 30 TO 35 THAT DAY. I HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED THIS WITH ANY OTHER CAR AND HOPED THIS WAS A ONE TIME DEAL. I LIVE IN A SNOWY STATE AND NEED TO DEFROSTERS AND WIPERS TO WORK. I LEARNED OF THIS WEBSITE TODAY AND SAW ANOTHER PERSON HAD THE SAME ISSUE SO I AM INCLINED TO THINK THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH THE CAR. *TR

ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS OVER THE WINTER, WHEN TEMPERATURES WERE BELOW FREEZING AND SNOW WAS PRESENT ON THE CAR AND IT WAS SNOWING, IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO CLEAR THE FRONT WINDSHIELD OF ALL PRECIPITATION AND THE FRONT WINDSHIELD WOULD ICE OVER AS THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS WORKED. SNOW WOULD ACCUMULATE IN THE AREA BELOW THE WINDSHIELD/AT THE TOP EDGE OF THE FRONT HOOD. THE DEFROSTERS ARE SET DOWN BELOW THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD AND SEEMED TO CONTRIBUTE TO THE ICING PROBLEM. I HAD TO PULL OVER MULTIPLE TIMES IN SHORT DISTANCES TO CLEAR MY WINDSHIELD, BUT IN CERTAIN COLD CONDITIONS THE ICE WOULD BE INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE AS THE WIPERS WERE ADDING MOISTURE AND THICKENING THE FILM OF ICE; THIS CONDITION MAKES FOR INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT AND DANGEROUS WINTER DRIVING. *TR

SINCE MY CAR WAS NEW, I HAVE HAD A RECURRING PROBLEM WITH THE PASSENGER AIRBAG SENSOR INDICATING THAT THE PASSENGER SEAT IS NOT OCCUPIED WHEN IN FACT THERE IS AN ADULT PASSENGER IN THE SEAT. SINCE THE PROBLEM IS SPORADIC AND I HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO RECREATE IT FOR THE MAZDA MECHANIC, MAZDA SAYS NOTHING IS WRONG, BUT THERE IS CLEARLY A PROBLEM THAT IS POTENTIALLY SERIOUS. MOST RECENTLY I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE PROBLEM OCCURS SHORTLY AFTER STARTING THE ENGINE, AFTER THE AIRBAG SYSTEM HAS GONE THROUGH ITS INITIAL CHECK AND THE LIGHT HAS GONE OUT. IT MAY THEN COME BACK ON AND WILL REMAIN ON FOR THE DURATION OF THE TRIP WITH A PASSENGER SEATED THE ENTIRE TIME. I SAW THE RECALL TODAY OF NISSANS FOR WHAT SOUNDS LIKE A VERY SIMILAR, IF NOT IDENTICAL, PROBLEM. I AM EXTREMELY CONCERNED THAT IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT, MY PASSENGER WOULD NOT HAVE AIRBAG PROTECTION. *TR

I HAD DRIVEN MY 2014 CX-5 ALL DAY AND HAD PARKED IT IN THE GARAGE FOR AN HOUR. I LEFT AGAIN AND NOTICED A LONG CRACK IN MY WINDSHIELD THAT WASN'T THERE AN HOUR BEFORE. THERE WAS A VERY TINY IMPACT POINT, WHICH UNDER ANY OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES WOULD NOT HAVE CRACKED THE WINDSHIELD APPROX.15 INCHES. IT SEEMS LIKE THIS WINDSHIELD IS A VERY CHEAP, LOW QUALITY PRODUCT. I HAVE HAD OTHER ROCKS HIT MY OTHER CARS' WINDSHIELDS AND HAD A VERY LARGE IMPACT POINT. NO OTHER TIME HAS ANY OTHER WINDSHIELD ON MY OTHER CARS CRACKED TO THIS EXTENT. I TOOK IT TO MY MAZDA DEALER AND THE SERVICE GUY ADMITTED IT WAS A VERY SMALL IMPACT POINT, BARELY SEEN AT A GLANCE. THEY REFUSED TO REPLACE THE GLASS BECAUSE IT WAS AN IMPACT. *TR

WHILE SITTING IN MY CX5 EATING MY LUNCH I NOTICED THAT THERE WAS A VERTICAL CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD. I GOT OUT OF THE CAR TO INSPECT FOR AN IMPACT POINT BUT COULD FIND NONE. I WAS BEWILDERED BECAUSE THE CRACK JUST SEEMED TO APPEAR OUT OF NOWHERE AND FOR NO CAUSE. THE CRACK IS ABOUT 18 INCHES LONG AND IS ALMOST DEAD CENTER OF THE WINDSHIELD LEFT-TO-RIGHT AND STARTS FROM THE VERY BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD AND RUNS UPWARD AND THEN CURVES AT ABOUT 90 DEGREES. SEVERAL DAYS LATER THE CRACK LENGTHENED HORIZONTALLY AND IS NOW ALSO ABOUT 6 INCHES IN WIDTH AS WELL. UPON GOOGLING CRACKED WINDSHIELDS ON THE CX5, I FOUND PLENTIFUL OTHER DOCUMENTATIONS OF THIS PROBLEM. IT IS OBVIOUSLY A KNOWN ISSUE WITH THE FRAME OF THE VEHICLE CAUSING STRESS ON THE WINDSHIELD AND I AM WONDERING IF MAZDA WILL RECALL THE VEHICLE AND MAKE A REPAIR. *TR

CRACK APPEARED IN THE WINDSHIELD WHILE PARKED OVERNIGHT. CRACK STARTS HALFWAY UP, AT THE DRIVER SIDE EDGE OF THE WINDSHIELD AND EXTENDS APPROXIMATELY 16 INCHES TOWARDS THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD. WHEN THE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED, THE INSTALLER DID NOT FIND ANY EVIDENCE THAT THE WINDSHIELD HAD BEEN STRUCK BY ANYTHING. *TR

STRESS CRACK APPEARED FROM EXACT MIDDLE OF TOP OF WINDSHIELD AND SPREAD DOWN DURING THE DRIVE. SEARCH ON THE INTERNET REVEALS OTHER MAZDA CX-5 OWNERS REPORTING SAME ISSUE (ESPECIALLY LIKE OURS THOSE WITH RAIN SENSORS AND SMART BRAKING SENSORS WHICH IS THE AREA OF THE WINDSHIELD THE CRACK STARTED FROM FOR US). INTERNET SEARCH ALSO FINDS THAT WINDSHIELDS HAVE BEEN BACK LOGGED AND PEOPLE HAVE HAD TO WAIT FOR REPLACEMENTS. *TR

I WAS DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH. I GENTLY REDUCED SPEED TO MAKE A TURN AND WHEN TRIED TO ACCELERATE AGAIN, MY NEW CAR DID NOT ACCELERATED. I HAD TO FULLY STOP HAVING CARS BEHIND IN A MAYOR ROAD. AFTER FEW SECONDS IT DID ACCELERATE BUT DID NOT PASS THE 10 MPH. THE DEFECT WAS ONLY SEEN THAT DAY AND FORTUNATELY I COULD GET HOME AT 10 MPH. THE CAR WAS TURNED ON THE NEXT DAY AND WAS WORKING PROPERLY. IT WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AND WAS FOUND NOTHING. *TR

PURCHASED A 2014 MAZDA CX5 ON 06-10-2013. ON 07-03-2013 WHILE OUR MAZDA WAS PARKED AT THE HOSPITAL, CAME OUT TO FIND THE WINDSHIELD BROKEN. A BREAK ON THE RIGHT SIDE MIDDLE AND RUNNING APPROXIMATELY. 18" TOWARD THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD. HAD THE WINDSHIELD ON 07-26-2013. ON 08-23-2013 THE WINDSHIELD WHILE DRIVING WHILE NO TRAFFIC AROUND THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED AGAIN. THIS TIME ON THE LEFT SIDE AT THE REGISTRATION STICKER RUNNING APPROXIMATELY. 6" TOWARD THE MIDDLE.

CRACKED WINDSHIELD ON A NEW - 1800 MILES, 2014 CX-5 GRAND TOURING WITH SMART CITY BRAKE SUPPORT SYSTEM AND RAIN SENSOR. A CRACK MYSTERIOUSLY APPEARED IN THE FRONT WINDSHIELD OF MY CAR, AS IT WAS PARKED IN OUR DRIVEWAY. THE CRACK STARTS AT THE TOP CENTER AND RUNS STRAIGHT DOWN TO THE REAR VIEW MIRROR AND THEN FORMS AN "S" SHAPE AND STOPS BENEATH THE MIRROR. AS DISCUSSIONS GROW ON THE MAZDA FORUM HTTP://WWW.MAZDAFORUM.COM/FORUM/MAZDA-CX-5-54/CRACKED-WINDSHIELD-2014-CX-5-GRAND-TOURING-W-SMART-CITY-BRAKE-SUPPORT-SYSTEM-31837/, IT IS APPARENT THAT THIS IS A PROBLEM. I WONDER IF THIS PROBLEM IS DUE TO POOR FACTORY INSTALLATION AND/OR AN OVERALL ISSUE WITH THE QUALITY OF MAZDA WINDSHIELDS. AT THIS POINT, I AM CONCERNED ABOUT SAFETY ISSUES, ESPECIALLY IN AN ACCIDENT OR ANYTHING THAT IMPACTS THE WINDSHIELD, SUCH AS A ROCK, WITH ANY FORCE. *TR

WINDSHIELD WAS CRACKED , FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE BOTTOM AND IT WAS ABOUT A FOOT LONG , TOO NEW FOR THIS TO HAPPEN THIS IS MY 2ND MAZDA NEVER HAD IT DONE BEFORE AND AS WITH MY OTHER CARS THIS IS THE FIRST. *TR

VEHICLE REPEATEDLY FAILED TO START AFTER SITTING UN-DRIVEN FOR MORE THAN ONE DAY. VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO DEALERSHIP ON THREE OCCASSIONS FOR REPAIR. VEHICLE FAILED TO START AFTER SITTING UN-DRIVEN AT DEALERSHIP DURING THIRD REPAIR ATTEMPT. DEALERSHIP REPLACED BATTERY TWICE, BUT THE ISSUE WAS NOT RESOLVED. THE PROBLEM WORSENED TO THE POINT THAT MAJOR ELECTRICAL ISSUES WERE EXPERIENCED, INCLUDING BRAKE SYSTEM FAILURE, STEERING WHEEL FAILURE, GAUGE FAILURE, AND COMPLETE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILURE. CAR IS INOPERABLE. INDEPENDENT TECHNICAL SPECIALIST CONDUCTED TESTS AND CONFIRMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS EXPERIENCING IRREGULAR ELECTRICAL ACTIVITY AND SUSPECTED AN INTERNAL ELECTRICAL FLAW IN THE ALTERNATOR AND/OR A BODY CONTROL ISSUE. MANUFACTURER HAS BEEN ORDERED BY A BBB AUTO LINE ARBITRATOR TO REPURCHASE THE VEHICLE. *TR

UPON ENTERING THE HIGHWAY A CAR CAME UP ON ME VERY FAST, WHEREUPON I FLOORED THE GAS PEDAL. THE CAR JETTED FORWARD TO ABOUT 65 MPH THEN SUDDENLY LOST ALL POWER; LIKE IT WAS FUNCTIONING ON ONE CYLINDER. I HAD TO PULL OVER AND COAST DOWN TO MY MAX SPEED OF 5-MPH. EVEN THOUGH THE PEDAL WAS FLOORED I COULD NOT GET ABOVE 1000 RPMS AND 5-MPH. VARIOUS WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON, INCLUDING THE TCS AND ENGINE LIGHTS. ALL WARNING LIGHTS REMAINED ON WITHOUT FLASHING. ONCE I GOT TO A SAFE PLACE I SHUT THE CAR DOWN AND WITHIN ONE MINUTE RESTARTED IT WITH NO SIGN OF A PROBLEM. I DROVE OVER 100-MILES TODAY AND NERVOUSLY HAD TO PASSE SOMEONE, BUT WITHOUT PROBLEM. *TR

WHILE SITTING AT A STOP LIGHT, THE VEHICLE SLAMMED INTO GEAR (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION) SO HARD THAT I THOUGHT THAT I HAD BEEN REAR ENDED. I GOT OUT AND CHECKED THE VEHICLE AS THERE WAS ANOTHER VEHICLE BEHIND ME, BUT IT WAS OBVIOUS THAT I HAD NOT BEEN HIT. SINCE THIS 1ST INCIDENT, I HAVE HAD THREE OTHER INCIDENTS OF THIS TYPE. I REPORTED THIS ISSUE TO MY MAZDA DEALER, AND THE INSIST THAT I MUST HAVE MY FOOT ON THE ACCELERATOR WHILE BRAKING AND THIS IS CAUSING THE SUDDEN SLAMMING AND ATTEMPT OF THE CAR TO LURCH FORWARD. AS A COMBAT WOUNDED VETERAN, I PHYSICALLY HAVE TO LIFT MY RIGHT FOOT FROM THE ACCELERATOR WHEN I BRAKE AND ALWAYS PLACE IT ON THE FLOOR (SAFETY MINDED) AS I BRAKE WITH MY LEFT LEG/FOOT. I DO NOT HAVE MY FOOT ON THE ACCELERATOR DURING THESE INCIDENTS. THESE 4 INCIDENTS HAVE ONLY OCCURRED WHEN I AM AT A STOP, AND WAITING FOR A LIGHT TO CHANGE. OPERATING ENVIRONMENT REGARDS TEMPS HAS RANGED FOR 70 DEGREES TO 10 DEGREES (F). *TR

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY I HEARD A LOUD NOISE ALMOST LIKE A GUNSHOT. I THOUGHT MAYBE SOMETHING HAD COME UP FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE AND HIT MY CAR....I HEARD NOISE COMING FROM OVER MY HEAD. I PULLED MY SUNROOF COVER BACK AND NOTICED THAT MY SUNROOF GLASS WAS SHATTERED. WONDERED IF SOMETHING HAD HIT THE SUNROOF BUT UPON INSPECTION I REALIZED THAT THE WINDOW HAD EXPLODED OUT NOT IN. I BROUGHT THE CAR INTO MAZDA ON 1/28/14 AND WAS TOLD THAT THEY INSPECTED IT AND DID NOT FIND ANY DEFECTS IN THE SUNROOF... *TR

THE CAR WAS IN MY CARPORT OVERNIGHT. MY HUSBAND GOT SOMETHING OUT OF THE CAR AND SHUT THE DOOR. THE SUNROOF GLASS EXPLODED. I ONLY HAD THE CAR FOR 29 DAYS. IT WAS BRAND NEW. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA CX5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER'S SIDE-VIEW MIRROR WOULD VIBRATE EXCESSIVELY WHEN DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS. ADDITIONALLY, THE OVERHEAD COMPARTMENT WOULD ALSO VIBRATE AND EXHIBIT AN ABNORMAL SHUTTERING NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 400. *TR

LOSS OF POWER STEERING AT SAME TIME ALL DASH ICONS LIT UP. CAR THEN MOMENTARILY SHUT OFF DOING 75MPH; LOST HEADLIGHTS (DURING NIGHT). THIS CONTINUED NUMEROUS TIMES. HEADLIGHTS STARTED FLASHING ON/OFF AND RIGHT TURN SIGNAL CAUSED CAR TO SHUT OFF. TOWED TO DEALER NEXT DAY AND ALMOST A WEEK AND THEY AND MAZDA ENGINEERING HAVE NO CLUE. *TR

WHEN DRIVING NOTICED A STRESS CRACK FORMING BELOW THE VEHICLE REVIEW MIRROR AND RAKE ASSIST CLUSTER ON THE WINDSHIELD. THIS CRACK INCREASED IN SIZE LITERALLY BEFORE MY EYES. AFTER EXITING THE VEHICLE I FOUND THAT THE CRACK STARTED IN THE TOP OF THE REAR VIEW MIRROR CLUSTER TRAVELING ALL THE WAY DOWN PAST THE SENSOR. *TR

WINDSHIELD CRACK ALMOST 2 FEET IN LENGTH FROM TINY ROCK HIT. *TR

VEHICLE COLLIDED INTO TREE WITH SIGNIFICANT FRONT-END DAMAGE BUT DRIVER SIDE AIR BAG DID NOT DEPLOY. DRIVER WAS WEARING SEAT BELT AND WAS UNHARMED. *TR

I WAS ABOUT 30 MINUTES IN MY DRIVE ON A 40-50 DEGREE F MORNING. I STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT. WHEN I TRIED TO ACCELERATE, MY CX-5 APPEARED TO HAVE STOPPED SHIFTING GEARS. I WAS STUCK IN A LOW GEAR. I COULD GET UP TO 20-30 MPH, BUT MY CAR WOULD BE STRUGGLING AT 4K RPM. LUCKILY, I WAS ALREADY NEAR MY DESTINATION. *TR

STRESS FRACTURE IN EXTERIOR OF WINDSHIELD STARTING UNDER THE GASKET EXTENDING STRAIGHT DOWN PAST REARVIEW MIRROR AND THEN HOOKING DIRECTLY TO THE LEFT. CAR WAS PARKED AND UNOCCUPIED AT TIME OF FRACTURE. HAD TO HAVE THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED AT MY EXPENSE EVEN THOUGH THE CAR WAS ONLY 3 WEEKS OLD AND HAD JUST OVER 1000 MILES ON IT. *JS

ABOUT 3 WEEKS AFTER BUYING THE VEHICLE NEW, A PEBBLE HIT AND CRACKED MY FRONT WINDSHIELD WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY. IT RESULTED IN A 24" CRACK WHICH REQUIRES WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT. THAT INCIDENT, BY ITSELF, IS NOT OUT OF THE ORDINARY. MY CONCERN IS DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE WINDSHIELD GLASS HAS SINCE BEEN ON BACKORDER FROM MAZDA FOR 7 WEEKS. THIS IS A NEW MODEL. EITHER THEY ARE HAVING EXCESSIVE WINDSHIELD BREAKAGE OR THEY HAVEN'T PRODUCED ENOUGH REPLACEMENT PARTS FOR THEIR NEW VEHICLES. EITHER WAY, IT'S A SAFETY PROBLEM. THERE IS NO THIRD PARTY GLASS SUPPLIER THAT MAKES THIS WINDSHIELD, AS IT IS APPARENTLY A NEW MODEL, NECESSITATED BY THE OPTIONAL "SMART CITY BRAKING" FEATURE (USING A LASER SENSOR THROUGH THE WINDSHIELD) UNIQUE TO MY TRIM LINE AND NEW IN 2014. *TR

I WAS DRIVING TO WORK ON I-85 SOUTHBOUND. I WAS IN THE LEFT LANE AND THERE WAS A CAR IN THE RIGHT LANE. THERE WAS A RUBBER TIRE LAYING IN THE ROAD. I SWERVED TO MY LEFT AS FAR AS POSSIBLE TO AVOID HITTING THE RUBBER TIRE WITHOUT HITTING THE GUARD RAIL ON THE LEFT. *TR