2017 Hyundai Elantra Gt 5 HB FWD

Drivers door handle does not open the car door on the first try when the car is unlocked. It takes 3-5 attempts at pulling the door handle to open the door. The drivers side door opens at first attempt from the inside. This has not been inspected by the manufacturer, police, or other representatives. There are no warning messages related to the problem. This is dangerous in multiple situations, as you cannot get into your car immediately in case of emergency.

Engine idles rough, shifts rough, idles high, stalls, and sometimes just simply won't run. CEL came on when it was time for an oil change/service, had oil and filter changed at Express Lube, and had them run a diagnostic on the CEL to make sure it was for the oil change, it was code P0017 cam/crankshaft. They cleared the code to be sure it wasn't just a glitch, CEL came right back on not even 50 miles down the road, and the car stalled in the middle of traffic, barely made it out of harms way with my two children in the car! I bought this car in October 2021, made my first payment in December 2021 and the CEL came on originally in January 2022. After spending the money to have it diagnosed further by my Hyundai Dealer where I purchased the car, the technician confirmed the P0017 code and also that it is a timing chain issue and that it's recommended to just replace the entire motor! The car is barely 4 years old, not even 100k miles, and I am only the SECOND owner! How does this just happen to such a new car with lower mileage that has a good maintenance history just all of a sudden needs a new motor? I can't afford to keep making high payments on an unsafe vehicle. I have searched through the complaints about this specific model and have found several identical cases related to the P0017 code which tells me this is a reoccurring malfunction from Hyundai and they need to own that responsibility before a class action lawsuit is filed. CEL came on at approximately 95K miles which would qualify for the powertrain warranty but since I am the second owner the warranty is no good. Someone help please!!

One of the four ignition coils failed. Car started shaking originally at 60mph and continued to shake when stopped. Check engine light flashed on and off during the drive. Problem was reproduced and confirmed by the reading of the engine code (P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected). No warning prior to car starting to shake. Check engine light didn't come on until after car started shaking. Ignition coil was replaced by owner, no dealer or independent service center was involved in fixing the vehicle.

Check engine light on with diagnostic error code P0304 cylinder 4 misfire detected ignition coil

Unable to open driver side door from outside, known latch issue. The first time this happened fob was inside car while heating up and could not get into car even with another key/fob through any door. Had to crawl through trunk. If someone such as a child or infant had been inside who could not open door, would have been a safety issue. So now cannot heat car with door locked until repair is completed. Problem is constant. Known issue with the car and Hyundai has extended the warranty to cover, but as it is a safety hazard a recall should be considered. Appointment has been scheduled for repair

The white paint simply started to peel off of the hood, leaving a big unpainted spot. This has been happening to a lot of Hyundai owners with cars with white paint, because Hyundai used defective paint. It actually is a safety issue because when driving on the highway large pieces of paint can come off of the hood and go into the windshield, distracting the drive. I can't believe you guys haven't issued a recall. So you are essentially making car owners pay to have the cars repainted? How is that possible?

Bought my vehicle used a few months ago. Engine started knocking. Hyundai dealership told me I had a engine recall but would not fix the problem due to sludge buildup causing the engine to knock. Sludge buildup is due to manufacturing problems but Hyundai is refusing to fix.

On five different occasions over the past several months, the power steering has ceased to function, generally after the car has been driven and then parked. It suddenly appears to resolve itself after the steering wheel is operated manually numerous times. The local Hyundai dealer has stated that they will not attempt to diagnose the problem unless the car is towed in inoperable. If this failure occurs while driving, it could result in a catastrophic situation, as steering the vehicle would be extremely difficult.

Around the end of 2019 is when I purchased my vehicle. Mid 2020 is when the issue first started. The paint first came off in a big chunk on the right side of the hood, then an even bigger chunk on the left. Now it's moved up to the roof of my vehicle and I dont think it's stopping any time soon. Initially I assumed maybe I did something wrong until I saw multiple other Elantras with the same exact issue. Now I know Hyundai is at fault

My passenger rear door which I barely use will not open from the inside or outside. In addition, when I turn at a slow speed I have problems with the steering wheel not turning smoothly and when I break the vehicle jolts. I have told the dealership about the steering wheel and the jolting and they haven’t done anything about it. That has been going on for a few years. The door I just noticed a month ago.

We have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra color white. In 2018 we noticed the paint peeling and thought something got on the spot, but as time went on the peeling continued and was in other spots. After seeing other people had the same problem. There is definitely a paint issue that has destroyed the car value andposes a major problem for maintaining the car.

The engine has produced knocking sound at 134000 miles. I replaced spark plugs, ignition coil and upgraded the fuel to higher octane, but the problem is unresolved

The right back passenger door can not open from the inside or outside. The driver's door does not open from the inside. If there is an emergency my children who are new drivers could not get out of the vehicle fast enough. I researched this issue and it seems to be a concern of other Hyundai owners. Are the door latches and locks faulty?

Three out of the four doors are not opening properly. They are either not opening from the inside, not opening from the outside or both. Dealer confirms the problem. If there was a serious accident and evacuation was necessary this would be a serious issue.

Left a location driving my vehicle normally the check engine light comes on, then my vehicle loses acceleration and then my vehicle stalls and I almost didn’t make it home.

Often times the rear video backup camera built into the car blanks out when reversing, randomly. Dealership said it’s possibly bad wiring but would be expensive to investigate, with me on the hook for paying if they can’t locate the issue. After going two years with this issues intermittently occurring, I was able to get a new camera installed under warranty, as a way to ensure the camera itself is the issue. In the end, blanking out condition is still present. I do check my mirrors often but it’s not safe for this camera to blank out as often as it does. I’m hoping this is an isolated issue but in the case more owners have this concern I’d like NHTSA to investigate the matter and if needed, recall affected vehicles. A family member drove my car and was involved in a minor fender bender, with the family member stating that the back up camera camera blanked out a few times in a couple seconds as another vehicle entering their mirrors blinds spots (directly in back of car) came through. If the camera would’ve been working properly it’s possible my driver wouldn’t have stuck the other vehicle.

I have two doors latches that recently failed. Both will not open proving to be a serious safety concern. Front passenger door and rear passenger door.

Both of the rear doors will not open. This started with the driver rear door and now the other side will not open. You have to forcefully pull on the door any where from 10-15 times sometimes to get it to open. The longer it has been left alone the more times it takes to get it open again. This is not a driver issue this is a manufacturer problem. This is also a safety hazard. I have looked this up and many Hyundai cars have had this same issue.

Rear passenger side door has become inoperable. This poses a safety risk as you cannot exit the vehicle from that side if an emergency arises. This is a common problem with this vehicle and should have a recall issued by now. The door opening mechanism has become damaged due to poor design, as this is a common problem mentioned all over the internet. This latch costs $1200, but was inoperable within only 4 years.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra GT. The contact stated while her husband was driving 50 MPH, he lifted his foot off the accelerator pedal and started to hear an abnormal sound. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The driver was able to drive to his employer's parking lot. The contact towed the vehicle to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed with needing the engine to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired but was pending repairs. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was 90,000.

My daughter purchased her first car, a 2017 Hyundai Elantra, last December (2020). She drove it for the first few months without any major issues but then it started having issues with the car “jerking” and stalling every time she drove it. It actually stopped in the middle of the road multiple times and she had to start it up again, which is highly unsafe. The check engine light came on and she took it to the local O’Reilley auto parts for the free diagnostic scan. It pulled up a camshaft sensor. Her best friend’s dad is a local mechanic and has a high-tech reader, so he plugged it in and it pulled up camshaft/crankshaft. He also noted that the oil was really low (she had it for six months at this point). No oil light on. They added oil to it. The car sat in our driveway for a few months until we could afford to repair it. Took it to the local repair store and they stated that one of the major issues was the timing chain was loose due to “worn sprockets” (which the mechanic stated appeared to be a manufacturing defect as they are too short to properly grasp like they are supposed to). After completing a $1800 timing belt repair they are now stating that, that was not the only issue and that the motor itself is going to need to be replaced. At this point, the car is not valued at the price of the repairs and replacement, leaving my daughter without a car and with a finance payment. I’m at a loss of what to do. I do not know much about cars but I do know that a car that was manufactured in 2017 should not need an entire motor replaced by 2021.

Check engine light came on while driving to dealership for an unrelated recall on door handle. A diagnosis of the car computer showed a code of P0128 Coolant Thermostat. Further check of information on this particular problem produced a Technical Service Bulletin from the manufacturer, Hyundai, Number 18-01-012. This bulletin was found on the NHTSA site. I notified the dealership and sent a copy of the bulletin. The dealership refused to comply with the bulletin and never returned our calls. I tried another dealership and Hyundai corporate office in California, and again was refused to comply with the bulletin. The replacement of this part was to be performed by any dealership if this particular vehicle was brought in for any type of service. The dealership manager, service manager and service department were all rude to my wife and myself in person and by phone. One person told my wife to fix it herself and hung up on her. Since obtained this bulletin from NHTSA website I feel that the refusal to perform the work is in direct violation of a known defect to this car. There is no recalls listed for this car even though I received a recall notice concerning the door opening flaw. There is nothing noted about the problem with the Coolant Thermostat even though the Manufacturer and NHTSA have both reported the problem. This repair was to be made regardless of whether there was a noted problem or not, as per the writing on the Technical Service Bulletin.

My vehicle, and hundreds if not thousands of other same make/models, are experiencing a heavy paint peeling issue. It is highly unsafe and ill-considerate for the environment and also for consumers. In the face of the COVID-19 Pandemic, many of us are already struggling in many areas of our lives. To have such an expensive issue arise in these times is mentally damaging. My vehicle cannot go in an automatic car wash or even be driven in windy or rainy conditions. Corporate directed me to have this inspected by a dealership and the dealership refused to help and said corporate needs to handle the problem at hand. Corporate continues to send me back to the dealership. The paint peeling off exposes the body down to the bare metal and can begin rusting. If this begins happening, pieces of the vehicles body could become severely damaged and be a live hazard on the road.

Elantra was running fine, parked the car at the store and went to start it and it didn't start. Tried starting it multiple times before smoke started coming out of the engine. Had the car towed to a Hyundai dealership to have it diagnosed and found out the engine was seized and the starter was blown due to trying to start the vehicle.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while operating the vehicle, the check engine warning light would remain illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle would jerk and hesitate and experience unintended acceleration. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer who diagnosed that the fuel injectors were faulty. The vehicle was not yet repaired. The manufacturer was contacted regarding the failure, but no assistance was offered. The approximate failure mileage was 60,000.

Rear passenger Door Will not open from the inside or outside. Huge safety issues if get in a wreck and can get out.

According to the Hyundai Dealership, located in Corona, CA, the Hyundai Elantra's are known for the ignition coil to go out. This is also not covered under warranty and list below of why it should be: This can cause Engine misfiring in a vehicle whose ignition coils have failed. Trying to start the engine of such a vehicle will result in engine misfiring that sounds like a coughing, sputtering noise. When driving at high speeds, jerking and spitting will be seen in the behavior of the vehicle. A vehicle with a failed ignition coil will also result in vibration when it is idling at a stop sign or light. Driving with a faulty coil pack can damage other components of the engine. Also most cars will register a faulty coil and immediately stop gas feed to that cylinder. However, damage may be caused if the fault isn’t registered by the PCM and the dead cylinder continues to receive gas. Your catalytic converter and oxygen sensors may become contaminated by raw gas and need to be replaced. This can be dangerous if it is a known common issue in a Hyundai Elantra and cause an accident when travelling at a higher speed. I was at a stop when this problem occurred for me but was able to safely move out of the way.

Abbreviated. Full description in files. Since July 2021, I have had intermittent issues with my 2017 Hyundai Elantra. When trying to accelerate, the car would struggle to move and feel like it was about to stall. The engine light would come on any time I would step on the gas. It was a danger should my car refused to accelerate while making a turn, merge, etc. On 8/31, I brought my car to Healey Hyundai. However, Healey could not fix the car, as the error codes were not in the car. On 9/6 I was able to drive to Healey Hyundai within the same day of the issue. The error code, a misfire on cylinder 2. On 9/16, Hyundai Motor Corp recognized there was a premature failure of the ignition coil on cylinder 2. A warranty repair was done to replace the ignition coil. Once fixed, a representative from Healey Hyundai acknowledge they had seen this issue before. They went so far as to warn me that the other ignition coils could go at any time. On 9/27 at 11 am, the issue occurred again and worse than I ever experienced it. The engine light turned on and my car struggled to move. For 15 minutes until I was able to safely stop. Once off, the light went away, and it appeared to operate normally. On 9/28 at 1 pm, I brought the car to Healey Hyundai again. It was 26 hours, 30 miles, and 4 starts since the issue occurred. However, the error codes were again missing from the car. Healey Hyundai was not able to reproduce. And while I have felt the car shutter and hesitate since, it is not enough for the engine light to turn on. The original ignition coils installed in the car are faulty. They overheat during normal use causing them to melt and warp. It also explains why the issue has decreased as the weather cools. Also alarming is the excessively short period of time error codes are stored in the computer. It is a matter of time till my car fails again and I am afraid for my safety when it does.

The 2017 Hyundai Elantra value edition has issues when and after making left turns the vehicle stalls and loses power causing the cluster to light up. Which can be extremely dangerous when operating the vehicle. There is no check engine light or any indicator that turns on prior on the cluster before the vehicle stalls. The intermediate steering shaft is notorious for going bad and had to have it replaced.

While accelerating on moderate incline engine has failed three times and souns like it’s flooding. After taking the vehicle to the dealership, they reported no engine failures or misfires were documented by the vehicles OBD. Engine has become excessively noisy, but after a 17 mile driving test by the dealership, they reported not experiencing any issues or hearing any noises. Vehicle Mileage: ~48.5K miles.

The brakes on this car are HORRIFYING. Sometimes the brakes shudder so hard that your body will physically lurch forward with the braking. (and this is only when braking from 45-50 mph, anymore feels like the car is falling apart) It feels almost as if the right front brake is ‘sticking’ causing the car to brake unevenly and stop later than it should. Sometimes I have to fully push down on the brakes to get it to stop all the way. Sometimes I will let go of the brakes and the car will slow down itself in a strange lurky way…. If I am going over 70 like on the interstate, and push on the brakes, they feel as if they cannot handle braking… The whole car, steering wheel, peddles and all vibrate intensly like the car is about to fall apart. and I’ve had many scary encounters where I have to glide my car out to the right to get the car to stop in time. I have taken into the Hyundai dealership multiple times. They always say nothing is wrong with it. I have owned this car less than a year and it is just now hitting 47,000 miles. The brakes just feel wrong. The car stability is almost nonexistant. I feel every bump or slight dip in the road, and the car follows them roughly. When braking while hitting a bump, I might as well not use them, as they won’t lock in until after the rough road. Scary car.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving at 25-30MPH, the vehicle inadvertently stalled. The contact stated he saw smoke coming from underneath the hood of the vehicle. The check engine warning light illuminated. The contact veered to the side of the road, where he checked the engine and oil level but could not determine the cause of the failure. The contact stated he continued to drive the vehicle, however, the vehicle would not go past 30 MPH. The independent mechanic came to the contact's residence and diagnosed that the engine had failed. The vehicle was towed to the dealer who diagnosed that the failure was caused by a lack of engine oil. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and advised that they would cover the replacement of the engine based on the dealer's diagnosis. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 101,000.

The rear driver side door will not open from the inside or outside. Huge safety concern in case of accident - and also just everyday use problem. The passenger side door latch will not open from the outside. It will open from the inside.

The engine shakes while driving slowly or idle and starts to act like it will stall. Happened in the middle of driving several times including on the freeway where I was lucky enough to get off to the side of the road without getting hit. Turns out the ignition coils are bad and was confirmed after trying to replicate the problem several times. This has been reported several times for this make and year. Looks like some years were previously recalled but not my specific vehicle. Yet it was still a problem. This presents an extreme safety hazard as you do not know when it will stall and can do so while driving. With repeated reports of this part being affected, there should be a recall. Seems like hyundai is trying to save money at the expensive of the driver's safety. My previous Elantra lasted for 13 years without this problem.

Air bag light malfunction sensor on no accidents

The driver rear door will not open from the inside or from the outside. No matter how you lock/unlock it when you pull either door handle nothing happens basically leaving a rear seated passenger trapped.

Heavy engine knocking, no warning lights came on, had low oil (oil changed 1.5 months ago), car stalled 30 seconds after pulling to expressway shoulder

The car shut out of without warning. On 10/6/2021:I pulled into the carport, as soon as I stopped the car shut off. All of the dash lights were off, radio was off, and door with not open with the buttons. The light came back on around 5 seconds later. 9/16/2021: the car shut off when was sitting in the car talking to my mom on my cell phone. Suddenly, the car shut off: no radio, no lights on the dash, the doors only opened manually. The key fob would not work. The brakes locked, the car would not start. I was able to start my ten minutes later. I purchased a battery around 3/2021.

Well my car is making a deal bad noise when I turn to the right I just recently realize that this year make moudel had a recall on the steering but where is the data base provided for me that it was fixed cause I can't find anything on it at and if it was fixed how do we know it wasn't a default part put back in my car need to have this looked into because when I turn to the right it's like it takes control of the steering and then I lose all power of steering not at all times normally at low rates of speed when turning towards the right or making the right turn at times it feels like going down the highway at 75 miles per hour but it's wanting to take control of the car at times

Engine stall while turning. Metal flakes in the engine. Engine completely failed requiring a new engine. Factory paint failed and bubbles off.

This is a manufacturing defect issue, not a safety issue. The paint on my white Hyundai Elantra is peeling from the undercoat on the hood. The mileage is just about 8,000 miles past the paint warranty. The car is kept in the garage and well maintained. While washing it with a garden hose, the paint quickly and easily peeled off the hood in giant chucks. I found this seems to be a common problem in many states.

Randomly stall all different times all lights will light up and coast until stopped. Down a hill and to turn it would stall. Go into 8 most serious accidents. I need someone to reach out cuz this car is not safe to drive wit kids at all

Rear passenger door will unlock but not open.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that after starting the vehicle, the vehicle was idling rough. The contact stated that the check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic where it was diagnosed with needing the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. The vehicle was repaired but continued to experience failure. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and informed the contact that they were unable to assist. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.

The steering wheel on the vehicle is loose and jagged; therefore when I turn the steering wheel it does not follow. I have to turn slowly to make the adjustment and I can hear the griding in the steering wheel system as I try to steer. I must get a repair as soon as possible fearing that the steering will stop working and cause me to veer in a dangerous direction.

The back passenger door suddenly can not be opened from inside or outside. Huge safety issue. Just out of warranty and it seems to be a common Hyundai problem after searching. There was no warning at all. Please have Hyundai recall this severe safety problem that is affecting so many cars!

Steering really bad car pulls both ways on the highway makes weird noise when taking off and accelerating and car randomly dies

When my teenage daughter drove our 2017 Hyundai Elantra, the power steering locked up on her while entering a busy interstate. Thankfully, she did not run into the barrier wall or nobody hit her from behind. Took it into the Hyundai dealership and apparently the torque sensor went out. They want to charge $1800 to fix it. Conveniently for them, it’s not covered under warranty as warranty stopped at 60k miles. The car just rolled over at 61k. As I researched, apparently this is a known issue with Hyundai.

driving down highway 50MPH, car completely lost power. Could have run off road due to loss of power steering, could have been hit, Got looked at by Ruddell dealership in port angeles wa where it was purchased, has a seized motor, not due to lack of oil. based upon research on the internet, this is a common issue at around 60-80K miles with this year make model. especially considering the fact that Hyundai just settled in october of 2020 for motors seizing without admitting fault, I believe they are still producing faulty motors. they have also since discontinued producing this motor, so I cant get a new one from the factory. it was dark, and I could have been ran into, or rolled off the road.

The paint on my vehicles roof is peeling off. I’ve attached 2 photos. One of when in first started and the other is current.

I got into a car accident on August 29, 2021. My driver side aid bag never deployed and I found out there was a recall 2 years before I bought the car from the dealership in 2019. I ended up getting stitches on my eyebrow, and my nose needed some but it was to late by the time I received medical attention so they gave me strips and my lip was split open. I have pictures of my car and my face and the side airbags went off but not the steering wheel

the problem is with the door lock actuator rear driver side and front passenger side, 2 doors!!! they don't open even from inside and out side when the door is locked and unlocked its so dangerous at the accident time or emergency times when the car is in fire and doors don't open from both sides when they are unlocked

The car is losing antifreeze. There is no antifreeze on the ground. From my understanding this has been an ongoing problem with this model of car and it needs to be a recall. I was informed that it’s losing antifreeze due to deficits in the exhaust system.

The vehicle shuts off without warning when idle. First time it occurred I was is a drive through and I started it up after it stalled. Second time it occurred was the following day at a red light, I went to accelerate when the light turned green and the vehicle and stalled out and I had a battery warning, oil warning, and check engine light- I had just had my car serviced a week ago where the oil was changed and the battery was tested. No to mention previously on Saturday 09/11/2021 while I was driving the traction control light came on and the RPMS showed 0 and the MPH showed 0 even though I was driving at around 50mph (in dry conditions) I had to pull off to the shoulder and restart my car. I currently have it at a shop.

The steering wheel tightens up occasionally when making right turns. Also when turning the steering wheel it makes a clicking turning on gravel sound on occasion. No ESP light is on, on the dash cluster. It is without a doubt 2017 Hyundai Elantra have steering problems that need to be address and recalled.

Consumes oil at a fast rate about 1.5 quarts every 1,000 miles. Car burns oil way too fast the dealership and Hyundai do not want to deal with it.

I have a 2017 pearl white Elantra and The paint is peeling off on my hood and my roof. The car is only 4 years old and I just hit above 30000 miles when this issue started. Even a coworker of mine who has the exact same car is having the same issue and her car basically has no paint left. Many people are having this issue and it’s disappointing that Hyundai won’t compensate their customers to get it fixed. Every time my car gets wet it gets worse it’s really ridiculous and looks TERRIBLE. Way too expensive to fix.

My passenger side front strut exploded, drove the shock through the hood. Very dangerous! Just happened, no warning. Schedule to take to dealer to see if covered by warranty. Car has 67,000 miles.

Paint is peeling off, issue has been happening to most pearl white Hyundai Elantra’s

The Driver's side door once locked and unlocked will not open?

The rear passenger side door will not open or close

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while her son was driving approximately 35 mph, the engine seized. The driver detected smoke and oil leaking from the vehicle. The vehicle was pushed into a parking lot. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified however, no further assistance was provided. The contact mentioned the rod punctured the engine.The approximate failure mileage was 72,000.

The brake system continually fails intermintently and is placing the driver and all passengers at risk of injury and or even death. The brake pedal stiffens not allowing pressure to be applied to use brakes. The pedal has to be pressed in aggressivly 5-10 times before finally allowing brake assist to help brake the vehicle. Once pedal begins to activate again it is followed with heavy grinding then finally almost resumes as normal with normal braking. The brake assist system has failed on almost 10 occasions on myself and has been taken in for repairs 4 times and fails to be repaired and appears to not ever be located. The recall regarding the brake booster was fixed, but yet brakes continued to fail after repair. The dealership has since taken it back in for repair and said they located leaking rear back brake pistons and repaired that. I was given car back and the next day experienced brake failure on 2 occasions on the freeway. I immediately gave the vehicle back to the dealer where it is today and they now believe it is the ABS system modular. The dealership continues to take it in but fails to locate the issue causing brake system failure. There have been no warning lamps or other issues that have relation to brake system failure. Since issue appeared first 2 months ago, I have replaced brake pads, brake fluid flush, brake booster recall, back brake pistons, and now ABS modular, and brakes continue to still fail.

When driving on bumpy roads or a transition to a bridge on a freeway the ABS and traction control will fail. There will be the pulse sound of the ABS but no brakes and the brake pedal will go stiff and brakint will take an excessive amount of time. Sometimes letting go of brake pedal and trying again will resolve issue. There have been instances where the ABS, Brake and Traction Control Light have come on and the only way to fix this is to power down the car and restart. Also another issue is rough idle or misfire/check engine light when accelerating. Diagnostics is showing misfiring on cylinder 3.

Drove my car yesterday when it stalled. I was able to start it again and pulled to the side of the highway. The engine was knocking loudly. I turned off the car and called a tow truck. When hyundai received my car they told me it was the rod bearings.they initially told me id be covered regardless of warranty as its a known issue. They called me late that day and told me they won't cover it since I'm 18,000 over the powertrain warrenty. This very problem has been recalled from 2013 upto 2019. However my car isn't listed. They told me ill need a new engine which costs $6000 for parts and labor. After researching im not the first this has happened to.

Door locks don't actually do what they are supposed to do. I found that out when my friend opened the door as a joke on a residential street a while back. When put into Drive, in motion, the locks flip to signal that they are locked but say if someone were to pull on the handle, it would still open. I checked all four doors, and they behave like this. I then compared it to my other vehicle, which did not act like this. I have yet to bring it up to the attention of my dealership. There were no warning lamps, messages, or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure.

I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport and I do not put excessive miles on my car, I do not drive hard and I do not beat on my car. Today my father pointed out that one my tires appeared to have "DRY ROT." and he said that tire is dangerous and needs to replaced. Then I told him my other tires also had the same cracking or dry rot on them. I do not know a thing about tires I thought that was normal wear and tear. I told my father I have already replaced two of these tires on my ELANTRA I have owned a year because the garage said the tires were unsafe; I had no idea what "DRY ROT." Now that this "DRYROT" was pointed out to me I realized the other tires I replaced also had that cracking all around the tire and I am going to look for old pictures that will verify this. IN the meantime once again It looks like I am going have to purchase another new tire because of this irregular tire wear . Today I discovered there is a recall on the exact same tires I have on my car; two of which I have already replaced. This recall on the HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 tire seems to go by tire size and maybe my tire size is not on that recall but I have the same problem as you can see from my photos as described on the recalled HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 and it is an obvious problem with more than a select few tire sizes. Please look at pictures of my defective tire; I have already replaced two others, on a car that has 38,000 miles on car; and I have always rotated my tires every other change. Given I have already replaced two of these defective HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 tires already, I still have two HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 one is a size 225/40R18 88W and the other is 225/40ZR18 92W.

At only 88,000 miles my AC compressor went out. It cost around $1000 to replace. While my car was in the shop they mentioned several others were in for AC issues.

I am the second owner of a 2017 Hyundai Elantra GT hatchback. I have not had any issues with the car until last week. I was driving in town to pick something up and the engine started knocking and losing power. The rpms would go up but I could not go anywhere. Eventually I had to park the car and have it towed to my house. I checked the oil and it was very low and had sludge in the upper engine area. I could visually see sludge where you fill the oil. I received no low oil light or engine light. Car still starts but has severe knock and shaking. Called into the Dealership, its over 60k (68k total miles) so they said it is over warranty but to bring in and they will call it into Hyundai. There is a 30 day wait so their must be something going on with these engines. I am seeing this same issue online with same cars.

The door latch actuator on rear driver side has failed. Door will not open from inside. Have to jerk fast on the outside handle to get open. Has not been looked at but pretty obvious when the kids are trappes in the backseat waiting to be let out.

Passenger door locks won't open door from inside or outside

Rear door locks have both failed. Doors cannot be opened from inside or outside, making this a safety concern. I cannot get my children out of the rear seats except through the window. After searching online I find that this is a common failure.

Rear passenger doors will not open from inside or out .. door will only open if you pound on door by latch several times. Once door is locked and unlocked again it will not open.. dealer states it is a "lock actuator " and is $500 to replace. This is a safety issue. In an accident, no rear passenger would be able to exit vehicle. There are several articles of complaints on Google about this issue.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the rear passenger's doors failed to open from the inside or outside. The contact had to punch on the door handle to open the doors. The contact called the local dealer and was informed that the lock actuator was likely the cause of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure however, no further assistance was provided. The contact was concerned about driving the vehicle. The failure mileage was approximately 50,000.

Rear passenger door will not open when unlocked from inside or outside. It started recently. I feel it is a safety issue if something happen to the car and we could not get out.

I noticed the car losing power (2017 Elantra) took it to my local mechanic and got a misfire code on coil 3. Replaced it and the next day took a long trip to New Jersey, the car stalled at low speed with the CEL on pulled to the side restarted the car and proceeded to drive the rest of the way. I felt unsafe as the engine felt like it was struggling. On the way back I decided to tow it back to NY. I drove it the next day to my mechanic and he said there were no stored codes, he drove it and said he could do nothing. I drove it the next day and the same problem happened, luckily on a side street. Took it back to him and made him drive it around for a 4 day period nothing happened. My son drove it and the same issue happened luckily on a side street. I then took it to the Hyundai dealer and they said they got a misfire code. They replaced the remaining coils, changed the engine coolant and cleaned the fuel injection system. Maybe me wait practically 2 weeks with no loaner. Drove the car and the same issue occurred. Again luckily on a side street. I called my mechanic and he said drive locally and if it happens to call him so he will hook up a scanner to get a code. Right in my neighborhood the same thing happened so I called him and he was unable to get a code, he thought it could be either cam or crankshaft sensor, he tried both and the stall occurred when he was driving, he then changed the MAP sensor and drove it for 30 minutes without an issue. I went away for 5 days and came back and drove the car which seemed fine, but the same problem happened. This is a dangerous problem and feel unsafe driving this car. It has only 46.000 miles on it. I have a case opened with corporate and waiting for them to contact me.

**NON SAFETY ISSUE** Purchased my 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE (Pearl White) used back in August of 2019 with around 30,000 miles on it. No issues at all. After one year back in summer of 2020 I got out my car and noticed a chunk of paint missing from my roof (around the size of half a football). I was immediately concerned. I contacted the dealer I got it from, they advised me to contact Hyundai so I contacted my local Hyundai dealer and they told me I was over the 30,000 mile paint warranty, nothing could be done but they could get me an estimate. I did some research, found tons of articles with tons of people having the same issue, same location on same vehicle, same color. I also found a article about a lawsuit filed against Hyundai for Elantra's year 2009-2016 for paint issue. I saw Hyundai won based off the fact they offer a 30,000 mile paint warranty. This scared me away from trying to pursue Hyundai so I waited a bit and hoped to see if a recall would be issued. Then maybe 4 months ago I went to wash my car and after hitting it with water a softball size chunk of paint chipped off my driver door. I then contacted Hyundai and asked that something be done. Hyundai's body shop wrote an estimate and submitted it to Hyundai. It was an over priced estimate in my opinion so I took it to my local (and well respected) body shop and they wrote me an estimate for exactly half the cost. Hyundai then responded they would cover half the cost. But only at a Hyundai body shop. Either shop I take it to I would owe $1,000 out of my pocket. Unacceptable to me and a lot of money for me. Both shops stated it was a manufacturing defect and I believe the manufacturer should cover the costs. I tried contacting Hyundai's corporate line and they advised me a rep would call me to speak to me about their decision. It has been a month now and no response still. I don't know what to do or who to have help. The car is all but 4 years old and the paint is getting worse daily. I need help.

Back passenger door won't open from inside or outside, acting as though it is still locked. This appears to be a common issue with Hyundai's, being a busted actuator that the company will not assist with and costs an average of $1000 to fix. It is a major safety issue as someone could get stuck in the back seat in an emergency. Since it happens on average around 47000 miles, it is just outside of warranty for most people, as well. It adds another shady layer that impacts the consumer.

Right front suspension strut mount failed. This allowed the front strut to be come disconnected from the strut mount. The strut is free to to become disconneted from the cars frame. In my case the strut has traveled up through the strut mount and through the trim cover and impacting the inside of the cars engine compartment hood. Currently the strut is resting on the lower side of the strut mount. Only the weight of the car is keeping the strut inside the coil. This places the driver and occupants at risk of the strut over travaling . It also puts the mechanic at risk, because the coil spring is not being retained by the strut mount plate. The car can be inspected. I have not had the problem confirmed, The first indication of the problem was a audible rattle from the right front suspension

PAINT PEELING

Drivers rear door will not open from the outside or inside. Door locks and unlocks fine, but the door mechanism will not release the door to allow it to open

I was driving down the freeway and moved over to pass a slower vehicle when the engine lost acceleration. I pulled over to the side oft the road and had the vehicle towed to the nearest garage. They told me the engine lost all its oil and the engine needed to be replaced. I find this hard to believe in a 4 year old car. I am bringing it to dealership tomorrow to see if they have the same diagnosis.

We recently took the 2017 Hyundai Elantra in for unrelated repairs and found that the driver’s side rear door could not be opened from either the inside or the outside. The shop that was doing the repairs tried calling the local Hyundai dealer to see if they could offer some assistance in regards to this unusual situation, but they would not return their calls. In order to finish the repairs we were having done, they needed to have the door open. Through research of their own, they found a way to finally get the door free and ended up having to replace the rear door latch. We ended up paying over $500 to have it fixed. The mileage on the car is just over 60,000 and is not covered under warranty anymore. Considering the rear doors are rarely used in this vehicle, we were shocked to see that there were problems with such little use over a short time. After doing further research on this problem, we found that there are many Hyundai owners that have been having this similar issue on all of the passenger doors. It scares me to think that this might happen in the future when we won’t be as lucky if there's an accident and have to exit the car quickly. I would hope that it can be seen that this is a very real safety issue and would consider a Safety Recall or Service Campaign for this problem.

The passenger side rear door will not open. The door locks and unlocks fine, but it refuses to open. The door handles both feel as though there is no tension when they're pulled and the door does not move. The car has not been involved in an accident and the rear doors did not receive a large amount of use (not daily used to carry backseat passengers). This is an extreme safety issue as we have recently had to use the vehicle to transport two small children (7 and 4 years old).

Driver side rear door will not open from inside or outside this is a safety concern as I have children if any accident happens, they or no one in the seat has access to leave vehicle during an emergency.

I bought it new in 2017 and paid it off a year early in May 2021. I have about 90,000 miles on it. When I was driving to a client's house on Friday, 16 July 2021, I was on the highway. It was making a lot of noise and would not accelerate. Eventually, the car completely died, would not start, did not have any dash lights, nothing. Totally dead. I was stranded on the side of the road for about two hours before a tow truck came to get me. When I got to the dealership, I was informed that my engine was blown. I provided my last 3 oil change receipts to prove that I have been taking care of the vehicle. I am still waiting to find out if they are going to fix it or if I am going to have to pay for it. While I was waiting for information from the service dept, I googled the engine problems, and it appears that it has been an ongoing issue since about 2011. Now, I am out of work and in danger of losing my job while waiting to find out if they are going to fix it. They said that IF they approve the repairs, they will NOT be providing a vehicle, but will REIMBURSE me $30/day for a rental. I cannot rent any vehicle in this area for $30.00/day, even with my USAA discount. I also can't afford to pay $500.00/week for a rental while they fix (if they fix) the vehicle that I bought and paid for. Today is day 4 and I still don't know if my repairs are going to be authorized. I found out today that if/when they are authorized, it will take WEEKS, not days, to repair my vehicle. During this time, they will not provide a car (the dealership nor Hyundai). I was informed that there are short blocks that have been sitting there for MONTHS waiting for parts, and that my vehicle may face the same time line. My car is paid off and now I am expected to pay about $500/week out of pocket for a rental while they wait to fix a faulty engine that had me stranded on the side of the road 4 years after I bought it.

The door locks on my Hyundai are not working properly. They do not open from the outside or inside, even though the lock buttons are operational and the key fob is working properly. It is a safety risk that they do not open properly in case of an accident or fire. I've read websites on several internet boards that this is a recurring issue with Hyundai vehicles and this poses a very big risk for owners. The body shop technician I took the vehicle to shared the same concerns about the faulty issues from Hyundai and is still working to resolve the issue part by part. The little CLS stopped working almost suddenly, with them opening from the outside after several attempts, to then not opening at all from the outside, to then not opening from the inside or outside. There is no open recall for this issue even though several individuals have reported and is a known defect.

The rear door opening mechanism fails and prevents the door from opening from either inside the car or outside. It starts off as being inconsistent then full on completely fails.

I was driving on the freeway and started hearing some knocking noise coming out from the engine , I decided to go home and as I was getting close to my house , the engine seized and the car won’t start. I towed it to the Hyundai dealership and they quoted me 10.000$ for a new engine and they wouldn’t tell the main reason to why my engine died. They only said to me that all four pistons are bad and that the engine has been burning lots of oil.

I bought the car 3 years ago and during the first year I had to replace an engine coil, a few months later Inhad to replace the other 5. On July 3rd I was driving on the highway with my family and while I was stopped in traffic I heard a slight whine and then a knocking sound coming from the engine. I then started driving again and felt the steering wheel lock up and the gas tighten up and I realized the car had shut off. I had to immediately veer off the highway to avoid hitting somebody and noticed that the electronics were working. I then restarted the car and drove home through local backroads where the car kept shutting off intermittantly. I then took my car to a mechanic who notified me there was sludge in the engine and he had 3 to 4 other customers he recently has seen this happen to in regards to Hyundai Elantra’s. I tried to contact the dealership who accused me of not taking care of my vehicle. I currently have an ope case with Hyundai corporate. From what I’ve seen online Hyundai is aware of these engine issues about piston knock and wngine sludge due to piston issues yet has not offered a recall or any type of customer assistance. The engine failure could have not only grievously injured my family but any other drivers I may have hit or been hit by due to this known engine issue.

When driving around 35 mph my vehicle had a loss of power suddenly shut off. It would not start again... I have 74k miles and the check engine light was not illuminated prior to this incident. I was merging onto a street and the loss of power had left me stranded and in danger near other cars. Vehicle was maintained well and there was no prior indications that there would be an issue. Many other 2017 Hyundai Elantra owners are having these issues and are being forced to repair their engines at a high cost.

Had multiple issues with being unable to open different doors. At this point it has happened to 3 or the 4 doors throughout time. Door will lock and unlock but am unable to open from inside or outside. I had 2 replaced under warranty, most recent one is no longer covered. It seems like a very big safety problem if people may be unable to exit the car in an emergency.

On 6/22/21 I took my vehicle in to the dealer for a warranty repair. There was a misfire on the Number 3 engine coil. My vehicle was returned and one day later I had the same warning light go off on my car. I returned to the dealer on 6/30/21 and there they replaced the Number 2 engine coil. The dealership told me that previously Hyundai would replace all 4 coils because it is a known issue, however because of cost they began only replacing them as they went bad. He said "they will all go bad, it's just a matter of if they will still be under warranty" In my opinion, Hyundai should still be replacing all coils if it is a known issue. My car was nut running correctly and would not fully accelerate. This could definitely be a safety hazard.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while starting the vehicle, there was an abnormal sound coming from the engine compartment. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was towed and diagnosed but not repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure but offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 42,803.

Engine make a lot of noise when I started, I have a situation where the engine stall and have to come to an stop, I bought the car about 2 years ago I took to the mechanic and I been told that engine has a problem and needs to be replaced staying that he has seen this problems on several vehicles same as mine with the same kind of engine, I took to the dealer and they told me the same thing but they said they can do anything about it. I don't know what to do with something like this its practically a brand new car, I also contact manufacturer with no luck.

Driving with no signs or dash lights came on to warning me of any issues. Car started acting like it was stalling out one morning parking it at work. Went to leave work had a very slight almost not noticeable knock sound went I started up. Car was acting like it was running harder then usually. Continued home and my car started seizing up and caused my car to stall completely out while driving on the interstate. I was a mile from home, started my car back up and continued to get somewhere safely and out of danger of the interstate. It stalled out multiple times before reaching my driveway. By then my car seized up and was making a loud knocking sound. I push the car into the garage and check the oil and there was no indication of any oil on my dip stick. Went ahead gave my car an oil change earlier then scheduled. 1.5 quarts of oil only came out and was low almost 4 quarts. No signs of leaking or using oil. No indication dash lights came on to warning me of this issue. With in 3000 mileage of my last oil change, I lost almost 4 quart of oil, no signs or lights and now I have a blown motor in my 5 year old car. This is a huge saftey concern of my, with no indication I had an issue and was stalling out on the interstate/while driving to reach a safe place to look at my car.

So my car has been randomly started doing this sputtering like I'm getting ready to run out of gas and feels like the car is going to shut off. Well I had a full tank of gas so I thought maybe the sparks plugs. Had them changed along with my oil. That does not seem to be the problem so once I get where I'm going and turn the car off it seems to not do it. But it will randomly happen. About every week or two and I don't know what the problem is. When I'm driving on the interstate and it happens I freak out thinking my car is going to shut off and I start to lose speed and everything and the OBD reader states that it is a misfire but that's not the case when I have brand new spark plugs in

Both driver and passenger rear doors will not open from either the inside or outside. The only way to open is to bang just below the door handle repeatedly from the outside and sometimes the door will open. My fiance has only been able to get our children out once. This seems to be a common occurrence via blogs online. This is a terrible safety hazard for my children God forbid of a crash or fire and I couldn't get my children out. There should be no questions asked about recalling a faulty door that could save children's lives.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving 50 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was restarted however, the failure persisted until the contact arrived at her residence. The contact stated that she replaced the battery, air filter, and added coolant to the reservoir. The contact called and made the local dealer aware of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 82,000.

Paint peeling off roof of car.

There was a recall on 3/28/2017 on the 2017 hyundai Elantra for a power steering (eps motor) problem. Recall 161 I recently bought a 2017 Hyundai Elantra used. It showed no outstanding unrepaired recalls on the vin number check. However without realizing there was a former steering recall on my car i have been noticing that my car when steering to the right catches. I mostly experience this at higher speeds and while driving on the highway when changing lanes. As if it snagged on something or i have no control for a microsecond. Its happens and just as quickly goes away when i bring the steering wheel back to the left.I am wondering if the march 2017 recall and my current problem are related. Is there any way of determining if my car was under that recall and whether it was repaired or not. When recall notices on a particular car/vin number are repaired does that info get entered into a national data base . It seems very coincidental to say the least that i am experience a steering anomaly and i now find out there was a past recall for a problem involving steering. Yet i can't seem to determine if my car was repaired for such a recall in the past

Paint. The white paint has begun cracking and peeling on the hood and roof. There was no damage to these areas and it has always been garage kept. The paint is defective. It started happening almost over night and is spreading quickly. This is unsightly, will lead to corrosion, and is completely unacceptable for a modern vehicle or this age.

The vehicle will just shut off while driving. I seen that other people with the same make and model is having the same issue. Have had the car in the dealership shop a number of times and they always say they do not know way it is shutting off and two or three days later they say they found the problem and it is fixed. But when I pick it up and drive least then five miles it shuts off. I have almost been ran into because the car have shut off while making a turn. I have even heard some people say they have been in accidents because of this issue. Something really need to be done about this model

I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra gt that currently has 108,000 miles and I already replaced the catalytic converter twice within 7 months. Last month, as I was driving on the freeway going home, I started hearing some knocking noise coming out of the engine. I decided to go to my house since I was close by. The noise was getting louder and louder, then as I was going down the hill on my way home, the engine seized and good lord I was going down hill , put it in neutral and it got me exactly in front of my house.I saw that there’s many recalls about Hyundai cars and engine especially the elantras from 2012 to 2016 but for some reason my 2017 elantra gt is not included in any of the recalls, even though it has the same engine. My car is currently at the Hyundai dealership for a diagnostic and they’re telling me that I need a new engine without a proper explanation of what exactly happened to the engine.I have been doing my maintenance on the car regularly and it doesn’t make sense to why the engine failed out of the blue.

Unknown. Car randomly wasn’t a to shut off and check engine light comes on only when gas pedal is pressed. Had taken to dealership to get fixed but it still happens

While unlocked 3 doors do not open from outside and one of the 3 occasionally won't open from the inside as well.

Rear Passenger door will not open from the inside or out. Child safety lock is not engaged. It appears to be a common safety issue reported over the internet.

Issue 1: The brakes are locking up when used at a high rate of speed (high-ways/interstate). When braking and running over a slight bump in the road such as where the road has buckled due to heat or due to road repair work (or other larger bumps), the anti-lock brake system will lock up the tires which will cause the car to continue traveling at a high rate of speed without slowing effectively. It has almost caused several collisions by failing to brake in time to avoid hitting the car in front of it without switching lanes. Luckily, no cars have hit the Elantra when we have had to swerve last minute to avoid a crash that would normally be avoided. This has happened on the interstate in traffic and sudden stops by cars in front of us. It has also happened on off ramps while gradually slowing the vehicle to a stop. This could cause substantial injury or death to anyone in the car. I have taken this car to the dealership and multiple car repair shops. They have not been able to determine the cause or fix the issue. There are no warnings on the car. The first few times this happened the antilock brake light came on. Issue 2: The back passenger door will not open when using the door latch from the inside or the outside of the car. The car lock functions as normal and can be heard locking and unlocking. The door will not open to be able to be fixed. Hyundai will not repair the issue under the warranty, and has quoted a high sum to fix the issue. The technician said he would have to brake the door in order to fix the issue. Other car repair shops have confirmed this is a common problem with Hyundai vehicles. The other repair shops have not been able to open the door to fix the issue. There is not a recall on the door mechanism. This has not caused any damage or injury to a person as of yet, but we have not felt comfortable driving anyone in the Elantra as the door would not open in an emergency to allow someone to get out of the car.

The driver side doesn't not open from outside.

The rear passenger door on my 2017 Hyundai Elantra will not open. I can lock and unlock the door with the remote but it will not open using both the inside and outside door handle. In researching this issue on the internet, it seems to be a very common problem with Hyundai cars from 2016-2018. I strongly believe this needs to be a recall by the manufacturer as it is a serious safety issue to not be able to open the doors.

My 2017 Hyundai Elantra paint is peeling off the hood and the top of the car.

WHILE THIS MAY NOT BE A SAFETY ISSUE, THE PAINT IS PEELING ON THE HOOD OF THE CAR. THERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER PLACES WHERE THE PAINT IS BEGINNING TO PEEL ON THE HOOD, AS WELL. THERE IS ONE PLACE ON THE ROOF OF THE CAR THAT IS BEGINNING TO PEEL. I KNOW THAT THERE HAVE BEEN OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE PAINT CHIPPING ON THE 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA, SO THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL.

TL* THE CONTACT CALLED ON BEHALF OF HIS DAUGHTER WHO OWNED A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH AND COMING TO A STOP, THE VEHICLE LOSS MOTIVE POWER. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED. THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO STEW HANSEN HYUNDAI (11344 HICKMAN RD, CLIVE, IA 50325) WHO REPLACED THE BATTERY AND REPROGRAMMED THE ECU. THE FAILURE RECURRED WITH THE VEHICLE HESITATING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND OPENED A CASE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000.

THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR NO LONGER OPENS FROM EITHER THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. I DISCOVERED THE ISSUE WHILE TRYING TO UNLOAD MY CAR AFTER A TRIP TO THE STORE. IT WAS WORKING IN THE MORNING AND WHEN I RETURNED HOME AND PARKED, THE DOOR HANDLE NO LONGER WORKED. THE DOOR WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK BUT THE HANDLE MECHANISM ITSELF IS FAULTY. AFTER DOING RESEARCH TO TRY TO FIX THE PROBLEM MYSELF I'VE DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE HYUNDAI ELANTRA AND IT IS NOT COVERED UNDER ANY WARRANTY. THIS IS A SAFETY CONCERN AS I CANNOT OPEN THE DOOR AT ALL WHEN TRANSPORTING PASSENGERS OR ANIMALS IN MY BACK SEAT. THIS HAS ALSO HAPPENED PREVIOUSLY TO THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR AND HAD TO BE REPAIRED. SINCE THIS IS THE SECOND DOOR THIS HAS HAPPENED TO I AM WORRIED THAT IT WILL HAPPEN AT ANY TIME TO THE DRIVER DOOR. I HAVE AN APPOINTMENT SCHEDULED FOR AN ESTIMATE ON THE COST OF REPAIR WITH THE DEALERSHIP TOMORROW THAT I EXPECT WILL RUN ABOUT $1500 BASED ON MY RESEARCH.

PISTON ROD BEARINGS AND MAIN CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS. ACCORDING TO DEALERSHIP THE BEARINGS ARE BAD EVEN THOUGH I HAD OIL CHANGED AT DEALERSHIP EVERY 5000 MILE DURING THE FIRST YR OF OWNERSHIP AND OIL CHANGED EVERY 3000 MILES AFTER THAT.

A FEW MONTHS AFTER GETTING THE CAR THE ENGINE KEPT STALLING THE ENGINE LIGHT WOULD ONLY TURN ON AFTER STALLING EACH TIME I HAVE BROUGHT IT TO MULTIPLE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIPS THEY KEEP SAYING IT'S JUST A SPARK PLUG ISSUE. IT'S FRUSTRATING SINCE ONCE OFF THE LOT A WEEK LATER IT'S RANDOMLY STALLING AGAIN.THIS NEVER FIXED THE ISSUE. THE CAR HAS STALLED BOTH ON ROADS, ROUNDABOUTS AND FREEWAYS CAUSING ME TO NEARLY BE IN CRASHES MULTIPLE TIMES, I DO NOT FEEL SAFE DRIVING THIS CAR. THE CAR IS IN MOTION AND THE ENGINE JUST STOPS THE CAR STALLS AND THEN THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. I HAD BEEN ABLE TO START IT AND GET IT MOVING IT'S RANDOM WHEN THE ENGINE STALLS.TODAY I TOOK IT TO ANOTHER CAR REPAIR CENTER THEY SAID THE ENGINE HAD A TON OF METAL PARTICLES AND CHUNKS, LIKE THE ENGINES ON THE 2014 ELANTRA'S. THEY SUGGESTED I FILE A REPORT TO THE NHTSA AND BRING IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AS THERE IS NO WAY A ENGINE OR PISTON SHOULD LOOK THIS BAD AND THAT THE METAL PIECES LOOK LIKE THEY ARE FROM THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS. I'M NOT SURE WHY THE DEALERSHIPS NEVER CHECKED THE ENGINE COMPLETELY REGARDING THIS ISSUE THEY COULD HAVE SEEN THE METAL FRAGMENTS EARLIER. I'M WORRIED THAT I WON'T BE LUCKY ON THE ROAD NEXT TIME THE ENGINE STALLS AND I'M WORRIED ABOUT OTHERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.I'M WORRIED ABOUT MY SAFETY AND OTHERS WHEN DRIVING. PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO CONTACT ME REGARDING MORE INFORMATION.

IN ALL EVENTS, THE DRIVER SIDE BACK-SEAT DOOR WILL NO LONGER OPEN FROM EITHER THE INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR OF THE CAR. THE DRIVER DOOR ALSO HAS TROUBLE OPENING AND YOU HAVE TO LEAN ON THE DOOR FIRST BEFORE IT WILL OPEN. THESE POSE SIGNIFICANT SAFETY THREATS IN THE EVENT OF HAVING TO QUICKLY LEAVE THE CAR IN AN EMERGENCY. PASSENGERS IN THE BACK WILL BOTH HAVE TO LEAVE THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IF SOMETHING WERE TO HAPPEN. THIS IS ALSO A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH THIS SPECIFIC MODEL OF CAR.

37K MILES. IT STARTED WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING ROUGHLY, SO WE REPLACED A COIL OURSELVES. SEEMED TO FIX THE ISSUE BUT A WEEK LATER THERE WAS AN INTERMITTENT NOISE FROM THE ENGINE WHICH SOUNDED LIKE A VERY SMALL EXHAUST LEAK (LIKE PFFFFFT). OCCASIONALLY, ALSO INTERMITTENT, THE ENGINE WOULD MAKE A VERY LOUD CLANKY NOISE. CAR SHUT OFF WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING <5 MPH. OUR MECHANIC SAID THE CODE WAS FOR THE 2ND COIL, SO WE REPLACED ALL 4 & SPARK PLUGS - JUST TO BE SAFE. TWO DAYS LATER, THE SAME NOISE ISSUES RETURNED AND THE CAR SHUT OFF TWICE WHILE DRIVING IN A WELL-TRAFFICKED DOWNTOWN AREA (5-10 MPH). IT DID NOT MAKE NOISE OR STALL WHILE IDLING. WE HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE SAME MECHANIC, NO CODES THIS TIME. HE REPLICATED THE ISSUES BY LETTING THE CAR IDLE FOR AN HOUR, THEN DRIVING IT 5-10 MILES, IT MADE NOISES AND STALLED WHILE GOING UP A VERY SLIGHT INCLINE AT <5 MPH. HE SAID IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING TO DO WITH A LOSS OF OIL PRESSURE SENDING THE ENGINE OUT OF TIME, AND THE LOUD NOISE IS THE CRANKSHAFT. I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CARS AND AM JUST REPEATING WHAT WAS TOLD TO ME. AT THIS TIME HE DRAINED SOME OIL AND FOUND METAL SHAVINGS. HE SAID HE COULD LOOK INTO THE PROBLEM BUT HE WOULD HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE AND PROBABLY TAKE IT APART. HE DIDN'T WANT US TO WASTE MONEY TRYING TO DIAGNOSE WHAT SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN ISSUE AND A BLOWN ENGINE. ALSO NOTED THAT THERE ARE FEW, IF ANY REPLACEMENT ENGINES OUT THERE. IN THE PAST FEW MONTHS, I'VE HAD A TIRE SENSOR MALFUNCTION, THE RADIO/MEDIA SCREEN GO BLANK MULTIPLE TIMES, AND THE PASSENGER SEATBELT NOTIFICATION GOES OFF EVEN WHEN IT'S JUST MY CELL PHONE AND WALLET ON THE SEAT. ALL OF THE ELECTRICAL ISSUES SELF-RESOLVED SO I DIDN'T EVEN HAVE TIME TO GET TOO ANNOYED BEFORE THIS MAJOR ENGINE FAILURE. THREE WEEKS FROM THE FIRST NOISE UNTIL THIS POINT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 46 MPH, THE VEHICLE LOSS MOTIVE POWER AND STALLED WITH THE OIL AND CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING UPHILL. ADDITIONALLY, THE FAILURE WAS EXPERIENCED WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, AND WAS EXPERIENCED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER RESTARTING THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE REGAINED NORMAL FUNCTIONALITY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC TO BE DIAGNOSED HOWEVER, THE MECHANIC WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT YET REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY MY VEHICLE STALLED. WHEN FINALLY GOT IT BACK STARTED IT MADE A AWFUL KNOCKING NOISE. HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY INFORMED ME IT WAS THE ROD BEARINGS. THEY SAID I DIDN'T QUALIFY FOR A REPLACEMENT BECAUSE I WAS 1,000 MILES OVER WARRANTY. THESE MOTORS SHOULD HAVE A RECALL LIKE THE 2011-2016 THESE MOTORS ARE DOING THE SAME THING AS THEM. YET THERE IS NO RECALL MY KIDS AND HUSBAND COULD OF BEEN REALLY INJURED ESPECIALLY SINCE IT STALLED ON THE HIGHWAY.

WHILE DRIVING THE PASSENGER SEATBELT ALARM GOES OFF AND NOBODY IS IN THE SEAT. THIS HAPPENS RANDOMLY FOR NO REASON.CONTINUES TO DING UNTIL BUCKLED. AIR BAG ENGAGES. OTHER TIMES IT LETS ME KNOW THAT THE PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF WHEN EMPTY.

CAR WAS PARKED IN MY DRIVEWAY, PRIOR TO A TRIP. A PASSENGER WAS UNABLE TO OPEN THE RIGHT REAR DOOR WITH THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE HANDLE. THE INSIDE LOCKING CONTROL MOVED NORMALLY, BOTH MANUALLY AND WITH ELECTRICAL LOCK CONTROL, BUT I STILL CANNOT OPEN THE DOOR IN ANY WAY. THIS IS SAFETY RELATED AS THE FAILED DOOR WOULD PREVENT EGRESS IN AN EMERGENCY.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. CONSUMER STATED THAT BOTH REAR DOORS HAVE MALFUNCTIONED. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE REAR DOORS DO NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OR THE INSIDE. *JS

REAR RIGHT DOOR NOT UNLOCKING FROM EITHER OUTSIDE.

DRIVER SIDE DOOR PERIODICALLY WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUT. JUST STARTED HAPPENING ABOUT 2 WEEKS AGO. THOUGHT IT WAS MY KEY FOB DYING HOWEVER I REPLACED THE BATTERY AND IT STILL IS CAUSING THE SAME ISSUE.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY THERE WAS A MECHANICAL NOISE THAT CAME FROM THE ENGINE - THE ENTIRE MOTOR BLOCK GRADUALLY BEGAN TO SHAKE MORE AND MORE, THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, AND WITHIN 30 MINUTES THE ENTIRE CAR DIED - WOULD NOT START. HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED AND REVIEWED MY MECHANIC. MISFIRES ON CYLINDER 3, AND A SPARK PLUG WAS PULLED AND NOTICED THAT THE GAP WAS CLOSED - SOMETHING IN THE ENGINE HAD HIT THE PLUG TO CLOSE THE GAP. MASSIVE AMOUNT OF ENGINE KNOCK. CAR ONLY HAS 67K MILES ON IT.

BACK LEFT DOOR DOESN'T OPEN DANGEROUS IN CASE OF EMERGENCY AC COMPRESSOR MELTED REPLACED AND NOW IT'S MAKING NOISES STRUTS BOLTS CAME LOOSE BRAKES AND SHAKING WHOLE CAR

YOU CAN NOT OPEN THE REAR DOORS. BY THE HANDLES INSIDE OR OUT. SOMETIME THEY WILL OPEN IF YOU WIGGLE THE OUTSIDE HANDLE ALOT OF TIME. THE INSIDE ACTS LIKE THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK IS ON. THE CHILD SAFETY NOT ON. IF AN EMERGENCY HAPPENS THE PEOPLE SITTING IN THE REAR CAN NOT GET OUT. THIS STARTED IN 2020 ON DRIVER PASSENGER FIRST AS OF TODAY 3/30/2021. THE REAR PASSENGER WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL.

THEIR DRIVER'S AND REAR DOOR LOCKS SUDDENLY START TO MALFUNCTION. THE REAR DOORS DON'T OPEN ANYMORE, THE REMOTE CONTROL IS WORKING APPARENTLY BUT I CAN'T OPEN THE DOOR EVEN MANUALLY FROM INSIDE. THE DRIVER LOCK DOOR NEEDS TO OPERATE MORE THAN 3 TIMES TO OPEN THE DOOR. I ALMOST NEVER USE THE REAR DOORS BECAUSE I AM SINGLE.*DT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT IMMEDIATELY STOP. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO REPLACED THE BRAKE PADS HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE LOCAL DEALER - GLENDALE HYUNDAI LOCATED AT 411 S BRAND BLVD, GLENDALE, CA 91204 AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE HOWEVER, NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V063000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC). THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE HAD EXPERIENCED THE FAILURE LISTED IN THE RECALL. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 33,000.

I HAVE TO CHANGE OUT MY LIGHTS EVERY 3 MONTHS. IT'S BEEN AN ONGOING ISSUE FOR OVER 2 YEARS.

THE BACK DOOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF MY VEHICLE SUDDENLY STOPPED OPENING. THE DOOR IS UNLOCKED BUT IT WONT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE NOR THE OUTSIDE. I HAVE FOUND THAT THIS IS A RAMPANT ISSUE ON THIS VEHICLE. IT IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE AS MY TODDLER CANNOT GET OUT OF THE CAR.

I HAVE HAD SEVERAL INSTANCES NOW OF MY DOORS EITHER FAILING TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE AND HAVING TO BE OPENED FROM THE INSIDE, OR BEING JAMMED ALTOGETHER AND UNABLE TO OPEN. THE MOST RECENT OCCURRENCE BEGAN HAPPENING ABOUT A WEEK AGO TO MY DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR, ALTHOUGH I BELIEVE ALL 4 DOORS HAVE BEEN AFFECTED. I HAVE ALL DOCUMENTATION AND RECEIPTS ON FILE, ALTHOUGH I AM UNABLE TO UPLOAD IT AT THIS TIME.

REAR PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. LOCK MECHANISM OPENS AND CLOSES WITH FOB OR DOOR UNLOCK BUTTON BUT DOOR WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL.

I AM 2ND OWNER OF VEHICLE (BOUGHT WITH 36252 MILES) AROUND 76XXX VEHICLE STARTING MAKING TICKING NOISES I BROUGHT INTO CARMAX WHERE I WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG. I GOT AN OIL CHANGE AND WENT ON MY WAY. 2 DAYS LATER THE CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. BROUGHT IT BACK CARMAX AGAIN STATES NOTHING WRONG. THE CAR IS CONSTANTLY SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING LONG DISTANCE. AT 90525 MY CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING ON A BRIDGE BROUGHT IT INTO HYUNDAI WERE THEY STATED I NEEDED A NEW MOTOR BUT IT WASNT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY DUE TO "SLUDGE" I LIVE IN FL ITS HOT AND I LIVE DOWN A 3 MILE BACKROAD THAT WILL CAUSE BUILD UP ACCORDING TO RESEARCH. HYUNDAI WONT HELP AND THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE ESPECIALLY FOR MY KIDS NOW IM STUCK MAKING PAYMENTS ON A CAR THAT CANT BE DRIVEN AND IM 2000 IN RENTAL CAR FEES. AND DONT HAVE THE BEST CREDIT TO GET ANOTHER CAR. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ASAP AS I SEE THIS COMPLAINT MULTIPLE TIMES

HYUNDAI AVOIDS TAKING CARE OF THEIR CARS BY SENDING OUT GENERAL STATEMENTS FOR TECHS TO "FIX" THESE ISSUES BUT THEY NEVER DO THEY SAY I DIDNT HEAR IT WHEN BROUGHT IN MULITPLE SUSPENSION ELECTRICAL ISSUES MY HUSBANDS 2019 HYUNDAI ELETRICAL GOING OUT. THE ENGINE ISSUE ALL THEY DID WAS SAY DIDNT DO IT FOR ME. THEY NEED TO REPLACE ALL THESE KNOWN ISSUES IT IS BRAKING DOWN THE WHOLE VEHICHLE FOR BOTH OF US. I BELIEVE HYUNDAI IS NEGLIGENT IN WORRYING ABOUT THE COST OF AFULL RECALL SO THEY DENY ANYTHING.I HAVE VIDEOS DOCUMENTS, MY CAR WENT FROM RED GAS TO GREEN RANDOM CLICKS DETERIORATION. MY HUBSANDS CAR IS THE ONLY OWNER ENGINE SHUDDERS RANDOMLY THEY DO A FAKE IINVESTIGATION. HYUNDAI DOES NOT CARE IF YOU DIE.

LEFT REAR DOOR LATCH WON'T ENGAGE TO OPEN DOOR. THIS IS THE SECOND DOOR THAT I AM HAVING TO HAVE FIXED ON A VEHICLE THAT IS 4 YEARS OLD WITH THIS DOOR RARELY BEING USED AS I AM USUALLY THE ONLY ONE IN THE VEHICLE.

THE DRIVER'S DOOR ONLY OPENS ABOUT 10% OF THE TIME FROM THE OUTSIDE. IT OPENS FINE FROM THE INSIDE. I USUALLY HAVE TO GET IN THE PASSENGER'S SIDE AND OPEN THE DRIVER'S DOOR FROM THE INSIDE TO GET IN THE CAR.

3 OF 4 DOORS WILL NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE AND/OR OUTSIDE. ONLY DRIVER SIDE DOOR NOW OPENS.

PAINT FLAKING WITHOUT ANY IMPACT.

I BOUGHT MY 2017 ELANTRA SE 2.0 IN APRIL OF 2020 MY CAR KEEPS STALLING WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS AND WHEN I MAKE TURNS LEFT OR RIGHT AT LOW SPEEDS VERY SCARY AND UNSAFE AND ALSO ENGINE NOISES AND SHAKES REAL BAD SOMETIMES AS WELL I STILL OWE 20000 FOR THIS LEMON HYUNDAI SHOULD BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS AS ITS BEEN A SERIOUS PROBLEM FOR YEARS FROM WHAT I READ VERY DANGEROUS THIS HAPPENS ON CITY STREETS AND EXPRESSWAY

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA BEGAN TO SHAKE AND REFUSED TO SHIFT ABOVE 40MPHS ON A ROAD POSTED 45. THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE RMP GAUGE SHOW THAT IT WAS STUCK AT 2RMPS. I SLOWED THE VEHICLE AND TURN ON MY FLASHERS AND IN MY TRAVELING TO A SAFE PULL OFF LOCATION. THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT OFF, THE SHAKING STOPPED, AND THE CAR RESUME A NORMAL SHIFTING PATTERN. THE VERY NEXT DAY WHILE TRAVELING IN THE CAR THE SAME THING OCCURRED. I EXPLAINED THE PROBLEM WHEN ARRIVED AT HYUNDAI AND WHILE IDLING AND WAITING TO THE CAR PERSON TO CHECK ME IN. THE CAR BEGAN TO DO SHORT SHUDDERS; THIS WAS DIRECTLY WITNESSED BY A CAR SERVICE EMPLOYEE. THE 2ND CYLINDER IGNITION COIL WAS REPLACED. IN MY SECOND VISIT I WAS SURE OF WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS BECAUSE I HAD EXPERIENCED THE SAME CAR SYMPTOMS SEVERAL MONTHS EARLIER. HERE IS THE PROBLEM THIS WAS SECOND CYLINDER I HAVE HAD TO HAVE REPLACED IN ABOUT 3000 MILES AND SEVERAL MONTHS; MY CAR ONLY HAS 25,0000 MILES. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE ON THE REPAIR FORM IT STATES ECU UPGRADE.

SLUGGISH, SHAKY AND NOT ACCELERATION ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON INTERMEDIATELY. CODE CAME UP P0301. CHANGED SPARK PLUGS, SENSOR, INCLINED THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER TWO TIMES. STILL THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. TOOK TO HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP THEY SAID ONE OF FOUR COIL PACKS WAS GOING OUT. THE PROBLEM WAS INTERMITTENT AND THE LIGHT FOR THE ENGINE WAS NOT ON. THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME THE ENGINE LIGHT HAD TO BE ON TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. THEN I FOUND OUT THE AGENT COIL PACKS HAD AN OLDER STYLE AND THEY WANTED ME TO BUY THEIR NEWER STYLE THE PART NUMBER IS 27300 - 2E601. THEY WANTED $700 TO PUT IN THE NEWER STYLE COIL PACKS. THIS ISSUE SHOULD BE A RECALL SINCE MY CAR WAS ONLY 3 YEARS OLD WHEN THE PROBLEM STARTED.

I HAD A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON AND IT WAS RELATED TO THE HEATER CORE OR SOMETHING OF THAT NATURE, WHEN I STOPPED TO HAVE A PARTS STORE RUN THE CODE. THEY ASKED ME IF IT WAS OVERHEATING, I TOLD THEM NO. ABOUT A MONTH LATER THE WEATHER STARTED GETTING COLD AND WHEN I WENT TO DEFROST MY WINDOWS THERE WAS ONLY COLD AIR BLOWING OUT WHEN THE CAR WAS WARMED UP. AS I STARTED DRIVING I WOULD GET WARM AIR BUT AS SOON AS I STOPPED COLD AIR BLEW AGAIN. I TOOK IN INTO HYUNDAI THE FLUSHED THE COOLANT SYSTEM AND CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT I GOT IT BACK AND THE SAME THING WAS HAPPENING, TOOK IT BACK THEY THEN REPLACED THE WATER PUMP, GOT IT BACK SAME THING, TOOK IT BACK AGAIN THEY CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT AGIAN, STILL DIDN'T FIX IT, SAME THING WAS STILL HAPPENING, I AM NOT WAITING FOR THEM TO GET A SPECIAL PART TO APPARENTLY FLASH THE SYSTEM AGIAN, BUT REMOVING AIR BUBBLES. I HAVE LITTLE FAITH IT WILL FIX IT SINCE IT DIDN'T WORK THE FIRST TIME.

WE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH OUR 2017 ELANTRA. DOOR LOCK OPERATES JUST FINE BUT THE DOOR WON'T OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THIS IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY HAZARD AS WE HAVE OUR KIDS OUT IN THE BACK AND NEED TO BE ABLE TO GET THEM OUT QUICKLY

I TOOK MY VEHICLE IN FOR AN OIL CHANGE AND THEY STATED THAT THE BALL JOINT ARE LOOSE AND STRUTS/SHOCKS ARE CIRCLE ON THE INSPECTION FORM. I STILL HAVE MY WARRANTY ON THE VEHICLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 2 MPH AND WHILE DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE CONTACT STATED NO WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER PALM SPRINGS HYUNDAI (3919 E PALM CANYON DR SUITE A, PALM SPRINGS, CA 92264, (760) 202-8888) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH NEEDING THE BRAKE CIRCUIT ERROR SWITCH TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS BEEN REPAIRED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 18,646.

DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE ABOUT 75 MPH. OCCUPANTS WERE A DRIVER AND FRONT SEAT PASSENGER. BOTH WHERE BOTH BUCKLED IN. DRIVER REPORTED THAT THE INTERIOR LIGHT SUDDENLY CAME ON AND THEY STARTED TO SLOW DOWN AS THEY WERE NOT SURE WHY INTERIOR LIGHT WOULD COME ON WHEN PASSENGER LOOKED AND NOTICED THEIR PASSENGER DOOR WAS OPEN ABOUT 10 INCHES. THE PASSENGER GRABBED DOOR AND PULLED IT SHUT. THE INTERIOR LIGHT SHUT OFF. THEY REPORTED THAT PRIOR TO THIS THEY HEARD NO ALARM BELLS, HEARD NO ROAD OR AIR NOISE AND THE INTERIOR LIGHT WAS OFF. THE PASSENGER WAS SITTING FACING FORWARD WITH ARMS CROSSED NOT TOUCHING THE DOOR.

REAR DRIVER PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN INSIDE OUTSIDE. IT WORKED FINE, THEN I LOCKED IT AND WENT INTO WORK AND NOW IT WON'T OPEN AT ALL. CHILD LOCK.WAS IN USE AND I HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO GET IT TO OPEN. MILEAGE 78,500

UNABLE TO OPEN DRIVERS FRONT DOOR WITHOUT TRYING AT LEAST 4 TIMES. THIS IS ONLY ONCE IT IS IN THE LOCK POSITION AND I UNLOCK IT. LIGHTS IN AUTO POSITION RANDOMLY GO ON AND OFF WHILE DRIVING

BACK DOORS WILL NOT OPEN. CALLED DEALERSHIP AND SAID THERE IS NO WARRANTY TO COVER HAVING THEM FIXED AND IT WILL BE OVER $1000 TO HAVE THE PROBLEM CORRECTED. DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD THE CAR SHUT OFF AND STARTED SMOKING. IT SAYS THE CAR IS ON AND RUNNING BUT IT IS NOT

THE DOOR LATCHES BREAK AND THE DOOR CAN NOT BE OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THIS IS THE THIRD DOOR LATCH THAT BROKE ON THIS VEHICLE IN THE PAST YEAR.

HEADLIGHT BULB CONTINUES TO BURN OUT AND BULB WIRING MELTED FOR SOME REASON.

COOLANT LEVEL IS ON FULL BUT THE HEAT DOES NOT WORK. THE THERMOSTAT IS ON H, WHICH MEANS THE CAR IS OVERHEATING. NO WARNING SYMBOLS ARE APPEARING ON THE DASHBOARD. I COULD BE DRIVING ON A CITY STREET THE CAR THERMOSTAT INDICATES THE CAR IS OVERHEATING.

THE CAR STARTED TURNING OFF WHILE DRIVING THE CAR, NOT MAKING A SOUND . THIS STATED WHEN BH THE CAR MADE 70,000 MILES WITH WARNING,IT WILL TURN OF RIGHT A STOP AND WHILE DRIVING , THE PROBLEM STARTED IN JUNE 2020, THE EXTENDED WARRANTY WILL NOT HONOR THE CLAIM I TOOK MY CAR TO HYUNDAI AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TRYING TO FIND WHAT WRONG. HYUNDAI STATED IT IS ENGINE FAILURE, AND I MAKING PAYMENTS ON THE CAR.

THE CAR HAS BEEN STALLING SINCE LAST FEBRUARY, MOSTLY DURING TURNS, AND WHILE DEACCELERATING. SOMETIMES IT IDLES ROUGH AND STALLS AT TRAFFIC LIGHTS. I TOOK IT TO MY DEALER BACK THEN, AND THEY TOLD ME THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY METAL SHAVINGS FROM THE ENGINE PLUGGING THE VALVE THAT REGULATES FUEL. I HAD PERFORMED REGULAR OIL CHANGES AND THE DEALER BELIEVED THAT THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. THE DEALER CONTACTED HYUNDAI, AND HYUNDAI REFUSED TO REMEDY THE DEFECT. THE PROBLEM TEMPORARILY GOES AWAY IF I GET AN OIL SYSTEM FLUSH, WHICH I HAVE BEEN DOING FREQUENTLY. AFTER ABOUT A MONTH, THE CAR BEGINS STALLING AGAIN, PRESUMEABLY BECAUSE THE SHAVINGS ARE PLUGGING THE VALVE AGAIN. THE CAR HAS BECOME DIFFICULT TO START. THIS MORNING IT WOULD NOT START AT ALL.

THE DRIVER SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR DOOR NOT OPEN IT JUST STOPPED OPENING. I CAN NOT UNLOCK IT AT ALL. I WAN COMING OUT OF A STORE WITH MY KIDS AND THEY COULD NOT GET IN. THE DRIVER SIDE WAS ABOUT 4 MONTHS AGE IN SEPTEMBER. AND NOT IN DECEMBER THE PASSENGER SIDE.

THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE IF THE DOOR HAS BEEN LOCKED. IF THE DOOR REMAINS UNLOCKED THE DOOR WILL OPEN FROM THE EXTERIOR FINE, BUT AFTER BEING LOCKED THE DOOR WILL ONLY OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAR. OTHERS HAVE POSTED ONLINE REGARDING THE SAME ISSUE.

HI TEAM, THERE IS A GRINDING NOISE WHENEVER I SHIFT MY CAR FROM PARK TO DRIVE. IT HAPPENS WHENEVER I SHIFT FROM PARK TO DRIVE/REVERSE OR SLOW DOWN QUICKLY. SO, I AM CONCERNED THAT THERE IS A SAFETY ISSUE HERE. I FEEL REALLY UNCOMFORTABLE DRIVING MY OWN VEHICLE WHEN THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT. THIS PUTS ME TO THINK THAT THIS MIGHT BE A TRANSMISSION ISSUE. THE VEHICLE IS UNDER WARRANTY AND LESS THAN 100,000 KM.

BOTH DRIVERS AND REAR PASSENGER DOOR ACTUATORS HAVE GONE BAD. I SEE ONLINE THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE AND HAVE BEEN TOLD BY THE DEALERSHIP THAT IT IS AS WELL. THEY WILL NOT COVER THE COSTS OF REPAIR. REAR SHOCKS ARE ALSO WORN OUT AND HAVE BEEN TOLD BY DEALERSHIP THAT THIS IS ANOTHER COMMON ISSUE. ONLY 3 YEARS OLD WITH 39K MILES ON THE CAR.

DRIVER SIDE FRONT DOOR HANDLE DOES NOT OPEN CAR DOOR FROM OUTSIDE. WAS WORKING FINE ALL DAY THEN STOPPED WORKING. CAR WAS STATIONARY. FRONT PASSENGER DOOR HANDLE CAME OFF IN MY HAND. THIS OCCURRED MONTHS PRIOR TO FRONT DRIVER DOOR.

THE ISSUE HAS HAPPENED WHILE MY VEHICLE HAS BEEN STATIONARY AND IN MOTION, ON A CIY STREET, ON A HIGHWAY AND WHILE TURNING. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AS THE CAR SHAKES. IF I'M IN MOTION, THE LIGHT WILL STAY ON WHILE MY FOOT IS ON THE ACCELERATOR, TURN OFF WHEN I TAKE IT OFF THE ACCELERATOR AND COME BACK ON WHEN IT REACHES 1RPM'S. IF I'M STOPPED IT WILL JUMP FORWARD WHEN I PRESS THE GAS TO ACCELERATE (THE WHOLE TIME THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON). WHILE I'M STATIONARY, IT WILL STAY ON WHILE IT'S AT 1RPM'S OR BELOW. I HAVE GONE TO THE DEALER A COUPLE TIMES ALREADY TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. THE FIRST TIME THEY TOLD ME IT HAD TO DO WITH MY SPARK PLUGS SO I DID THE SERVICE TO GET THAT TAKEN CARE OF. THE SECOND TIME I WENT THEY TOLD ME THEY COULDN'T FIND ANY CODE TO INDICATE A PROBLEM. HERE WE ARE AGAIN AND I'M HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND NEEDS TO BE ADDRESS AS I'VE CURRENTLY READ MANY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA OWNERS ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. I DON'T SEE THE BENEFIT OF BRINGING IT TO THE DEALER AGAIN IF I'M JUST GOING TO PAY FOR A SERVICE THAT ISN'T GOING TO RECTIFY THE PROBLEM AND THEY CONTINUE TO SAY THERE IS NO PROBLEM. I DO HAVE VIDEO TO SHOW THE PROBLEM.

THE DOORS IN THE 2017 ELANTRA MODEL STOPPED WORKING, THEY DO NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE HANDLE AND SOMETIMES THEY DO NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE EITHER.

REAR, PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE. YOU CAN HEAR THE LOCK MECHANISM WORKING, BUT THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN NO MATTER WHAT WE DO. THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM PEOPLE HAVE BEEN HAVING WITH HYUNDAIS FOR YEARS NOW. HERE'S A LINK TO A FORUM THAT TALKS ABOUT IT. HTTPS://WWW.HYUNDAI-FORUMS.COM/THREADS/REAR-PASSENGER-DOOR-WONT-OPEN.603329/ THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP WHERE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE SAYS IT'S OUT OF WARRANTY, AND WON'T LOOK AT IT WITHOUT CHARGING ME, SO I DIDN'T GET A REPAIR ESTIMATE.

THE VEHICLE LIT ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL THE SCC SYSTEM AND THE AEB SYSTEM THE CRUISE CONTROL DOES NOT WORK

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT DRIVER'S AND PASSENGER'S SIDE REAR DOORS WERE UNLOCKED HOWEVER, THE DOORS FAIL TO OPEN FROM INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. ADDITIONALLY, THE PASSENGER'S SIDE FRONT SIDE DOOR FAILED TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE HOWEVER, THE DOOR WAS ABLE TO BE OPENED FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT DOOR FAILED TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE ON THE FIRST ATTEMPT. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS THE DOOR UNLOCKED FROM THE OUTSIDE. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL SOUND COMING FROM THE ENGINE. ELDER HYUNDAI (19077 HALL RD, MACOMB, MI 48044, (586) 838-1667) WAS CONTACT BY PHONE HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 83,000.

THIS IS MY THIRD HYUNDAI AND FOR SOME REASON MY FRONT BREAKS WERE COMPLETELY SHOT AND I HAD TO SPEND $567.65 TO HAVE THEM REPLACED. AFTER SEARCHING OTHER CARS THIS SHOULD NOT HAVE HAPPENED THIS EARLY ESPECIALLY WITH ALMOST ALL HIGHWAY DRIVING. I HAD BEEN THINKING ABOUT ANOTHER HYUNDAI, BUT WITH THIS PROBLEM I AM THINKING MAYBE A DIFFERENT BRAND MAY BE BETTER. THIS PROBLEM HAD NOT OCCURED BEFORE.BREAKS WERE REPAIRED AT DEALER OTHERWISE I MIGHT JUST LOSE MY WARRENTY. I CAN TELL YOU I AM NOT A HAPPY CUSTOMER OF HYUNDAI AT THIS POINT AT 36,000 MILES.

COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO I COULDN'T GET EITHER OF MY BACK DOORS TO OPEN UP, FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND GOT IT FIXED WITH EXTENDED WARRANTY. I MADE A COMPLAINT ON HERE THEN AND NOTICED OTHERS WERE HAVING THE TROUBLE. NOW, THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE DOOR WON'T OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE. THIS IS [XXX]. 3 OF MY FOUR DOORS AND OTHERS HAVING THE ISSUE. IN FACT, THERE HAS BEEN 220 COMPLAINTS ON THIS WEBSITE ABOUT THIS CAR AND 33 OF THEM ARE BECAUSE THE DOORS WON'T OPEN. THERE HAVE BEEN 5 IN THE LAST MONTH....WHEN DOES IT BECOME HYUNDIA'S PROBLEM? TOTAL [XXX]. PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

MY HEADLAMP LIGHTBULBS KEEP BURNING OUT. IN 2020 ALONE I HAVE SWITCHED THEM OUT 3 TIMES EACH! WAS TOLD THAT'S NOT NORMAL. TODAY I SWITCHED THE PASSENGER SIDE FOR THE 3RD TIME THIS YEAR. I'M SURE BEFORE 2021 I WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE DRIVER SIDE. IT'S GETTING EXPENSIVE! ALSO MY IGNITION COIL HAS GONE OUT 2CE IN 4 YEARS. (YES IT'S A 2017 BUT I PURCHASED 6/30/2016) MY CAR SHAKES AND MAKES WEIRD NOISE. SAME ONE #1 IS THE CULPRIT.

CAR STALLED ON HIGHWAY ON 11-01-2020, PASSED BOTH INSPECTIONS ON 8-29-2020. PURCHASED CAR ON 9-1-2020 THROUGH DRIVETIME. I HAVE INSPECTION PAPER WORK FROM BUYER SHOWING EVERYTHING PASSED. CHANGED OIL ON 10/14/2020 THROUGH JIFFYLUBE WITH ONLY THE AIR FILTER BEING THE ONLY ISSUE FLAGGED.

THE DOORS WILL NOT OPEN. THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUT. MY DRIVER SIDE HAS STARTED TO DO THE SAME THING. THANKFULLY IT'S STILL OPENING BUT IT STILL GOES IN AND OUT.

FRONT AND REAR DRIVERS SIDE DOOR HANDLES INOPERABLE. UNABLE TO OPEN FROM INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE. DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK, BUT NOT OPEN.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA CAR STARTED STALLING AT RED LIGHTS AND WHEN STOPPING. ALMOST CRASHED TWICE. IT STARTS BACK UP. IT STARTED 10\12\20. IT HAPPENED A FEW TIMES AND THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WITH CODE P3006. ABOUT 20 MILES IT WENT OFF. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND NEEDS TO BE FIXED. A LOT OF PEOPLE IS COMPLAINING ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE. IT NEED TO BE RECALLED AND REPAIRED.

THE DOOR HANDLES ON MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA CONTINUE TO FALL OFF. SO FAR, ALL 4 OF MY DOOR HANDLES HAVE FALLEN OFF AT LEAST ONCE, MY DRIVERS SIDE FRONT DOOR HAS NOW BROKEN 3 TIMES, PASSENGER FRONT DOOR HANDLE BROKEN TWICE, AND REAR PASSENGER DOOR BROKEN TWICE. CURRENTLY 3 OUT OF 4 OF MY DOOR HANDLES ARE BROKEN. BEEN WAITING NEARLY 6 MONTHS FOR THE DEALERSHIP TO FIX THIS AS A "COURTESY" BECAUSE MY CAR WITH 85K MILES IS OUT OF WARRANTY.

THE CAR WOULD STALL IN THE MIDDLE OF DRIVING, THE MOST RECENT TIME ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY. THE VEHICLE STALLS WITH NO REASON AT ALL. THIS INCIDENT HAS HAPPENED 5 OR 6 TIMES WITH NO HELP FROM THE DEALER AS THEY HAVE NOT FOUND THE ISSUE. THIS VEHICLE IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE.

FIRST THE CAR HAS BEEN ACTING LIKE IT'S GOING TO DIE EVEN WHILE DRIVING IT. NOW I'M HAVING ISSUES WITH MY STEERING WHEEL, IT EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE IS DIFFICULT TO TURN BUT IT'S OFF AND ON. IT'S ALWAYS WHILE I'M ACTIVELY DRIVING IT'S BEEN BOTH CITY STREET AND HIGHWAYS.

THE POWER STEERING MECHANISM CLICKS OR CLAPS WHENEVER STEERING EITHER FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. THE NOISE ISN'T ALWAYS THERE. IT HAPPENS AT RANDOM TIMES, BUT ITS AT EITHER DIRECTIONS WHEN STEERING INTO A PARKING SPOT OR A PARKING LOT.

I PURCHASE THIS VEHICLE IN 7/2018 AND HAD IT FOR JUST OVER 2YEARS AND THE VEHICLE STARTED STALLING AND STOPPING THEN SOON JUST SHUT DOWN AS I WAS DRIVING. AFTER GETTING IT TOW HOME AND HAD A MECHANIC LOOK AT IT. I WAS TOLD THE ENGINE WAS BAD AND IT WAS NOT FIXABLE. I'M HAVE A CAR I'M FINANCING AND CAN'T USE THE CARE AGAIN. I HAVE CONTACT HYUNDAI FOR OVER A WEEK NOW AND NO ONE HAVE RESPONSE. MY CASE MANAGER WILL NOT CALL ME BACK ON THIS. I HAVE A CASE NUMBER AND CALL EVERYDAY AND ALL I GET IT RUDE SUPERVISOR WHO DO NOT CARE.

PURCHASED A HYUNDAI ELANTRA 2017 FROM A DEALERSHIP ON JULY 7, 2020. THE 2ND DAY IT STALLED ON ME FEELING LIKE IT'S IN NEUTRAL WITH ENGINE LIGHT ON. I RETURNED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY REPLACE THE IGNITION COIL AS AND SAID THEY ORDERED A PART TO RETURN IN 2 WKS. THIS HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE AIRBAG UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT. THEY KEPT THE CAR ANOTHER 2 WEEKS. I WAS HAPPY WHEN THEY CALLED THAT IT WAS READY. EACH TIME I HAD TO PAY THE 2 TOLLS TO GO TO THEM IN JERSEY. BEFORE I GOT ON THE GARDEN STATE GOOD, THE CAR STARTED SHAKING, COULDN'T GO OVER 45 MPH WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON AGAIN. I RETURNED IT. THEY KEPT IT 2 WEEKS. I HAVE MY CAR WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON STILL AND CALLED TO COMPLAIN BUT UNABLE TO REACH A MANAGER EACH TIME. I USED UP OVER $200 OF TOLL MONEY WHICH I USED UP PLUS GETTING SOMEONE TO TAKE ME TO DROP OFF OR PICK UP THE CAR HAD TO PAY FOR GAS AND TOLL. PRODUCED THE E-ZPASS RECEIPTS AND EVERYTHING AND EVERY TIME I GO AND ASK FOR THE REFUND, THE OWNER IS NEVER THERE. I DO NOT WANT TO HAVE MY NEW CAR BREAK DOWN WITH ME IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER. I REQUESTED A LIST OF THE THINGS THAT WERE DONE TO TRY TO RESOLVE THE ENGINE LIGHT ISSUE SEVERAL TIMES EVEN FROM THE SALESMAN WHO DOES NOT TAKE MY CALLS OR WHEN HE DOES, HE DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TELL ME. SAID HE'LL ASK AND GET BACK TO ME. NO RESPONSE. THE FIRST DAY I PAID FOR THE CAR AND WE WERE HAPPY TO BE GOING HOME, MY DAUGHTER AND I NOTICED THE FRONT BUMPER ALL BROKEN UP AND IT WASN'T LIKE THAT WHEN WE INSPECTED AND CHOSE IT BEFORE PAYING. THE SALESMAN SAL SAID THERE'S NOTHING HE CAN DO ABOUT THAT AS I ALREADY PAID FOR THE CAR AND MUST ACCEPT IT THAT WAY. I BROUGHT IT TO A SALESWOMAN ATTENTION THE LAST TIME I WENT TO PICK UP MY CAR AND THEY ONLY SAID THE MANAGER/OWNER WILL REACH OUT TO ME. NEVER HEARD FROM THEM. STILL DIDN'T RECEIVE PLATES. I FEEL LIKE THEY TOOK ADVANTAGE OF ME AS A SENIOR CITIZEN.

DRIVER AND PASSENGER DOORS DO NOT UNLOCK. OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE, PLACE THE KEY IN THE DOOR LOCK IN THE HANDLE AND TURN, OR USE THE WIRELESS REMOTE. BOTH METHODS FLIP THE DOOR LOCK INSIDE THE CAR TO THE OPEN POSITION, BUT NEITHER UNLOCKS THE DOOR.

ENGINE TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING, USUALLY AFTER BRAKING BUT ALSO WHILE IN MOTION. LUCKILY, IT WAS AT A STOP LIGHT OR WHILE I WAS IN LIGHT TRAFFIC. IT HAS HAPPENED ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION AFTER DRIVING AN AVERAGE OF 30-40 MINUTES. THERE DOESN'T SEEM TO BE A PATTERN OR A SPECIFIC REASONING AS TO WHY.

TPMS MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT IS ON. CAR IS SHAKING . ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON

IN OPERATING SPEED LESS THAN 25 MPH ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET, ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE ABRUPTLY STOPPED WORKING AND POWER STEERING LIGHT ON DASH ILLUMINATED. OPERATOR LOST 90% CONTROL OF STEERING. ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OPERATED AS DESIGNED. DEALERSHIP DIAGNOSED THE ISSUE WAS DUE TO A BAD BATTERY BUT ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OPERATED. RECALL 161 DESCRIBES A MORE ACCURATE DESCRIPTION OF A DAMAGED ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING CONNECTOR RESULTING IN A LOSS OF ELECTRIC POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE.

WHEN TRYING TO MAKE A SUDDEN BR.AKE, THE VEHICLE TOOK LONGER TO BRAKE THAN IT SHOULD HAVE. THE TIRES AND BRAKE PADS WERE IN GREAT CONDITION AND I KNOW THIS BECAUSE I HAD GOT THEM CHECKED OUT PRIOR TO MY ROAD TRIP WHICH IS WHEN THE INCIDENT TOOK PLACE. OUT OF ALL THE CARS I HAVE DRIVEN, NONE OF THEM HAVE TOOK THAT LONG TO MAKE A COMPLETE STOP. IF THERE HAD BEEN A CAR IN THE INTERSECTION, I WOULD HAVE DEFINITLY HIT THEM WHICH IS VERY SCARY. AS A RESULT OF THIS I NOW KEEP A MUCH LONGER DISTANCE WHEN DRIVING BEHIND OTHERS AND I ALSO BRAKE AHEAD OF TIME SCARED THAT ONE DAY THE CAR MIGHT NOT STOP AT ALL.

THE DOORS SUDDENLY STOP WORKING... THEY WON'T UNLATCH IF YOU TRY TO OPEN FROM OUTSIDE OR INSIDE.. YOU HAVE TO HIT UNDER THE DOOR HANDLE FOR THE DOOR TO UNLATCH. THIS IS HAPPENING ON MULTIPLE VEHICLES AND IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE AT THIS POINT. (MORE CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS HERE: HTTPS://WWW.HYUNDAI-FORUMS.COM/THREADS/REAR-PASSENGER-DOOR-WONT-OPEN.603329/) THIS IS HAPPENING ON 2 OF MY DOORS. CAR HAS NEVER BEEN IN ACCIDENTS NOR DOES IT HAVE ANY DENTS ON IT. HYUNDAI SAYS THEY WILL NOT FIX UNDER WARRANTY (CAR HAS 65K MILES ON IT) AND THEY ARE CHARGING CUSTOMERS TO FIX IT DESPITE IT BEING A MANUFACTURER ISSUE. THIS IS ALSO A SAFETY ISSUE GIVEN THAT IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT OR A FIRE, THE DOOR MAY NOT OPEN TO GET PASSENGERS TO SAFETY. THIS IS NOT AN ISSUE WHERE IT SLOWLY DEGRADES. IT'S A SUDDEN ISSUE.

THE DOORS WOULDN'T UNLOCK, THEN DECIDED TO UNLOCK. THE VEHICLE WILL ONLY MAKE THIS LOUD CLICKING NOISE. THE BATTERY TESTS GOOD. THE HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS KEEP COMING ON AND OFF EVEN THOUGH THE VEHICLE IS NOT ON AT ALL. ALL SWITCHES ARE TUNED OFF AND IT'S NOT IN ACCC MODE. HAD TO DISCONNECT BATTERY AND WAIT FOR TOW TRUCK.

THROTTLE POSITION SWITCH HESITATES UPON ACCELERATION. VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION, ON A CITY STREET AND HIGHWAY. ENGINE SEEMED TO HAVE NO POWER.

THE VEHICLE WAS BEING ADJUSTED WHILE PARKING ALONG SIDE A CURB ON A HILL. THE DRIVER PULLED FORWARD, THEN ATTEMPTED TO STOP IN ORDER TO PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE TO GET CLOSER TO THE CURB, BUT THE BRAKE PEDAL WOULD NOT DEPRESS. THE CAR BEGAN TO ROLL DOWN THE HILL AND HIT THE BACK OF A PARKED SUV AND ENDED UP WEDGED UNDER THE BACK OF THE SUV. THE ENTIRE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE WAS SMASHED, BUT THE AIRBAG NEVER DEPLOYED.

IGNITION COIL PACK FAILURE. 1 COIL PACK FAILED (STARTED FAILING AT 40,000 AND IT WAS 44,000MI BEFORE THE ISSUE WAS FIXED ) & ANOTHER IS FAILING (AT APROX48,000). I HAD TO TAKE MY CAR TO HYUNDAI MULTIPLE TIMES TO HAVE THIS RECTIFIED AND IN THAT TIME MY VEHICLE WAS RUNNING ROUGH AT IDLE, WHILE DRIVING. THE VEHICLE ATTEMPTED TO STALL WHILE DRIVING AT INTERSTATESPEEDS ON A MERGE RAMP BETWEEN TWO INTERSTATES DURINGTHEFIRST INSTANCE OF FAILURE. HYUNDAI WOULD NOT RECTIFY THE ISSUE WITHOUT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT PRESENTED AT THE DEALERSHIP. THE FIRST COIL PACK WAS REPLACED. NOW ANOTHER COIL PACK IS FAILING AND THE DEALERSHIP REFUSES TO FIX THE MATTER WITHOUT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. I VISITED THE DEALERSHIP AND REPORTED MY MOST RECENT FAILING IGNITION COIL ON 9/1/2020. THE ROUGH IDLE AND RUNNING ROUGH IS BECOMING MORE FREQUENT WHICH MEANS THE VEHICLE IS LIKELY TO STALL WHILE DRIVING. THE 2017 KIA FORTE HAS THE SAME ENGINE AND HAS A TSB ON THIS ISSUE TO BE FIXED. THE FORTE NHTSA ID # IS 10127032. DUE TO THE STALLING WHILE DRIVING THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND NEEDS TO BE RECTIFIED. MY VEHICLE IS UNDER MY FACTORY 5YR/ 60K WARRANTY WITH HYUNDAI AND I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER.

IN FEBRUARY 2020, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AFTER MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AND LOSE SPEED AS I DROVE ON THE CITY STREETS AND HIGHWAYS.THE SERVICEMAN REPLACED THE COILS IN MY CAR. WITHIN A WEEK, MY CAR STARTED TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED AGAIN. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY "FIXED" IT AGAIN TO NO AVAIL. IN EARLY MARCH, MY CAR WAS STILL EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS: SHAKING VIOLENTLY AND LOSING SPEED AS I DROVE ON BOTH THE HIGHWAY AND ON CITY STREETS. I CHOSE TO TRY A DIFFERENT SERVICE CENTER. THEY ATTEMPTED TO FIND A PROBLEM WITH MY CAR BY RUNNING THE CODES, BUT HE SAID THAT NOTHING POPPED UP ON THE SCREEN. I TOLD HIM THAT MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHES ON AND OFF WHEN I PUT MY FOOT ON AND OFF OF THE ACCELERATOR. HE SENT ME ON MY WAY WITHOUT FIXING MY CAR, BUT HE TOLD ME TO BRING MY CAR BACK INTO THE SERVICE CENTER WITHOUT SHUTTING OFF MY CAR AS SOON AS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON THE DASHBOARD. HE TOLD ME THAT THIS WAS IMPORTANT, BECAUSE IT WOULD HELP THEM BE ABLE TO DETECT THE ISSUE. WITHIN 15 MINUTES OF PULLING OFF OF THE PARKING LOT, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHED BACK ON AND MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED AGAIN. I TURNED AROUND IMMEDIATELY AND TOOK MY CAR BACK. THEY FLUSHED OUT THE FUEL LINE SYSTEM. WITHIN TWO WEEKS, I BROUGHT MY CAR BACK FOR THE SAME THING, BUT THE SERVICEMAN TOLD ME THAT HE COULD NOT FIND ANY ISSUES SINCE THE COMPUTER SHOWED NO ISSUES. EVERY TIME I TAKE MY CAR INTO A HYUNDAI REPAIR CENTER, THEY TELL ME THAT THEY CANNOT DETECT ANY ISSUES WITH MY CAR, ALTHOUGH I TELL THEM THAT MY CAR BEGINS TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED RANDOMLY. IT IS NOW SEPT. 2020, AND I AM STILL HAVING THE SAME ISSUES. I AM SCHEDULED TO TAKE MY CAR INTO A NEW HYUNDAI SERVICE CENTER IN A NEW STATE. THIS IS A DANGEROUS CAR PROBLEM THAT THREATENS THE SAFETY OF ME AND OTHER DRIVERS ON THE ROAD. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO TAKE ACTION NOW!

ONCE AGAIN THE CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AND STARTED LUNGING FORWARD WHILE DRIVING WITHIN CITY LIMITS. CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT CAME ON. I PULLED OVER AND SHUT THE CAR OFF. WHEN I RESTARTED THE CAR, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS NO LONGER ILLUMINATED AND THE CAR SEEMED TO DRIVE SOMEWHAT NORMALLY. THIS WAS NOT THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED, AND FROM WHAT I CAN TELL BY READING OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON THE NHTSA WEBSITE, SEVERAL PEOPLE ARE HAVING THESE ISSUES AS WELL. IT APPEARS TO BE THE ECM, ENGINE CONTROL MODULE. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE ASAP. IT IS VERY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE THIS VEHICLE. DO NOT ALLOW THEM TO SAY YOU NEED NEW SPARK PLUGS OR A SOFTWARE UPDATE. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS A RECALL IMMEDIATELY.

WHEN I BRAKE THE BRAKES DON'T RESPOND PROPERLY

AT 77,000 MILES WHILE DRIVING, DASHBOARD LIGHTS CAME ON. ENGINE SHUT OFF, LOUD NOISE CAME FROM ENGINE, OBVIOUS ENGINE FAILURE NOT SURE IF FROM FUEL PUMP. CAR HAD REGULAR SERVICE MAINTENANCE. NOT UNDER HYUNDAI 100K WARRANTY SINCE I AM THE SECOND OWNER. CEASED ENGINE RELATED TO OIL - MOST LIKELY FAILED OIL PUMP.

THE PAINT ON THE CAR PEELS OFF IN SHEETS. COMPLETELY BELOW THE PRIMER LAYER EXPOSING THE METAL. I HAVE NOTICED SEVERAL OTHER ELANTRA'S THAT SEEM TO HAVE THE SAME ISSUE

I JUST DROVE THE CAR OFF THE LOT EVERYTHING WAS WORKING FINE WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY DRIVING FOUR HOURS HOME THE LIGHTS WENT OUT THE LIGHT IS CUTTING OFF AND ON AND NOW I GET AN ALERT CHECK BACK BRAKE LIGHT SO NOW IT IS NOT WORKING

WHILE DRIVING, ENGINE WOULD TURN OFF WHILE DRIVING. AS I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE THE ENGINE WOULD BE OFF (NO ACCELERATION) AND THE ENGINE, OIL, AND BATTERY LIGHTS WOULD COME ON. DASHBOARD ELECTRONICS AND RADIO WOULD STAY ON. PUT THE CAR IN PARK, TURN IT OFF, TURN IT BACK ON - NO DASHBOARD LIGHTS ON AND THE CAR NOW DRIVES AS NORMAL. ALL INSTANCES HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS, MOST INSTANCED HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TURNING. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I TOOK IT TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. THEY SAID IT WAS BECAUSE I HAD LOW OIL (NO OIL INDICATOR LIGHT HAD BEEN ON). "FIXED" IT BY DOING AN OIL CHANGE. ALL SUBSEQUENT OIL CHANGES HAVE BEEN DONE AT HYUNDAI LAKELAND. 8 MONTHS LATER I EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM. CAR TAKEN TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. DIAGNOSED AS BAD SENSORS IN THE ENGINE (SENDING INCORRECT INFORMATION ABOUT WHEN THE ENGINE NEEDS POWER) AND A BAD CRANKSHAFT (AS A RESULT OF THE STALLING AND BAD SENSORS). BECAUSE OF THE MULTIPLE OCCASIONS THAT THIS HAS OCCURRED AND THE DIFFERENT DIAGNOSES THAT IT HAS HAD FROM THE SAME DEALERSHIP, I AM UNSURE IF THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN TAKEN CARE OF WITH THE LAST REPAIR. AN ENGINE THAT TURNS OFF WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION CREATES A DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE DRIVER AND OTHERS AS THE VEHICLE CEASES FORWARD MOTION. I HAVE BEEN LUCKY THAT THIS ISSUE HAS NOT RESULTED IN A TRAFFIC ACCIDENT.

MY CAR HAD RECENTLY BEGAN TO SHAKE AND BUCK VIOLENTLY WHILE DRIVING WITH NO WARNING LIGHTS OR INDICATORS AT 38,000 MILES. THREE WEEKS AGO BEFORE A REGULAR MAINTENANCE APPOINTMENT AT MY HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP WHERE I BOUGHT THE !CAR, AS I TURNED OVER THE IGNITION AND ACCELERATED THE CAR BEGAN TO BUCK AND SHAKE VIOLENTLY. AS I PRESSED THE GAS, THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. I WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC IN WASHINGTON, D.C. SO ONCE I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY MOVE OVER, I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK OVER. NO SHAKING AND CONTINUED AS NORMAL. ONCE I TOOK THE CAR IN THE FOLLOWING WEEK, I WAS TOLD EVERYTHING WAS FINE AND MADE SURE TO MENTION THE SHAKING AND BUCKING AND WAS TOLD THAT THEY DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING. THE NEXT DAY FOLLOWING SERVICE AND RECEIVING MY CAR BACK, MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AGAIN. STILL NO WARNING LIGHT INDICATOR. I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE MECHANIC WHERE MY COIL PACKS WERE UPDATED (I BOUGHT MY CAR MARCH 2017 AND WAS NEVER TOLD ABOUT ANY RECALLS ON COIL PACKS THAT RELEASE LATE 2017 UNTIL THIS MOMENT). ONCE I RECEIVED MY CAR BACK I WAS INFORMED THAT EVERYTHING WAS OKAY. WELL IT WAS NOT. THE NEXT DAY I'M DRIVING MY CAR A SHORT DISTANCE WHEN TWO HARD SHAKES HAPPENED. ONE SOUNDED LIKE TWO METAL PIECES COLLIDING. I PULLED OVER AND TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK OVER. THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT IS NOW PERMANENTLY ON. I HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED AND NOW BEING TOLD IT COULD BE THE TRANSMISSION BUT NO UPDATES. SERIOUSLY UNSAFE AND COULD'VE NOW BEEN IN MULTIPLE ACCIDENTS ALTHOUGH I'VE REGULARLY SERVICED AT THE DEALERSHIP I PURCHASED MY CAR.

BOTH BACK DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN. THEY WOULD NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE. MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE. I TOOK TO SHOP AND THEY SAID IT WAS ACUTATOR OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. COST OVER $650 TO FIX. I HAD THE EXTENDED WARRANTY SO I GOT IT FIXED, "FREE". BUT OTHERS MAY NOT BE SO LUCKY. NEVER BEEN IN WRECK, COMPLETELY NOT MY FAULT AT ALL.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA USED RAN GREAT FOR A WHILE, THE ONE OF THE FOUR COILS WENT BAD, STARTED TO SHAKE AND THE DEALER REPLACED THE COIL, AND RAN GREAT, AND NOW THE CAR STARTED SHAKING AGAIN AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND I SET AN APPOINTMENT FOR THE DEALER THE DAY I TAKE TO THE DEALER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WENT OUT AND IT WAS RUNNING GREAT, SO I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER ANYWAY AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS THE COIL, AND IT WASN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY ANYMORE, BUT THE CAR WAS RUNNING GREAT, SO I'VE BEEN DRIVING IT, AND NOW EVERY NOW AND THEN IT SHAKES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND WHEN I STEP ON THE GAS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GOES OUT AND THE CAR RUNS GREAT. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL!

WHEN I PURCHASED MY CAR IT WAS BRAND NEW IT IS WHITE AND WITHIN 1 TO 1.5 YEARS THE PAINT JOB BEGAN PEELING OFF FROM THE FRONT. I USE THE CAR FOR WORK AND I DRIVE A LOT. I TOOK IN THE CAR AND I WAS TOLD IT WAS OUT OF WARRANTY BECAUSE IT WAS OVER 4,000 MILES. THE PROBLEM HAS GOTTEN SO BAD THAT BY SIMPLY WASHING THE CAR THE PAINT JOB PEELS OFF. FROM THE TIME I TOOK IT IN UNTIL NOW I HAVE SEEN OTHER HYUNDAI CARS (ABOUT 5-7) WITH THE SAME PROBLEM; ALL WHITE. ABOUT 1 YR AGO I BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS OPENING THE FRONT DRIVER DOOR. THE CAR WAS UNLOCKED BUT I COULDN'T OPEN IT FROM THE OUTSIDE. I WOULD HAVE TO GO THROUGH THE PASSENGER DOOR AND OPEN THE DRIVER DOOR FROM THE INSIDE. IF I DON'T LOCK THE CAR I DON'T HAVE ANY ISSUES. IF I LOCK IT I HAVE TO PULL ON THE HANDLE ABOUT 3 - 4 TIMES. THIS IS A BIG INCONVENIENCE AND A SAFETY HAZARD. ABOUT TWO WEEKS AGO I BEGAN HAVING ISSUES WITH THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR. I HAVE A TWO YEAR OLD AND HER CAR SEAT WAS PLACED ON THE BACK SEAT BEHIND THE PASSENGER. THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR WAS ON CHILD LOCK. TWO WEEKS AGO THAT DOOR ALSO STOPPED OPENING AND I CAN'T OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE DUE TO THE CHILD LOCK. I HAVE MOVED MY DAUGHTER'S CAR SEAT AND IT IS NOW POSITIONED DIRECTLY BEHIND THE DRIVER SEAT. THIS IS A BIG SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE I CAN'T SEE HER AT ALL WHEN I AM DRIVING. ALSO, I CAN'T PUT THAT DOOR ON CHILD LOCK BECAUSE WHEN THAT DOOR STARTS GIVING ME THE SAME PROBLEM (NOT OPENING) I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE IF IT IS ON CHILD LOCK. SO NOW I HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT MY TWO YEAR OLD REACHING FOR THE HANDLE AND OPENING THE DOOR. I HAVE DONE ONLINE SEARCHES AND HAVE COME ACROSS OTHER HYUNDAI VEHICLES HAVING THE SAME ISSUES OR THE DOOR HANDLES COMPLETELY COMING OFF. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO TAKE ACCOUNTABILITY FOR THE DOOR HANDLES AND POOR PAINT JOB.

THE CAR CUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING.IT STALLS N TRAFFIC LIKE IT WON'T GO N I ALMOST HAVE BEEN HIT SEVERAL TIMES.THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON.VERY DANGEROUS N SCARES ME WHEN I DRIVE CAUSE U NEVER KNOW WHEN IT'S GOING TO CUT OFF N TRAFFIC OR WHILE TURNING.

PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, CHILD SAFETY LOCK NOT ENGAGED, WILL NOT UNLOCK. DEALER STATED THAT HAS HAPPENED ON SEVERAL HYUNDAI'S BUT THERE IS CURRENTLY NO RECALL. DEALER STATED ACTUATOR IS BAD AND THE CABLES ARE STRETCHED. VERY UNSAFE THAT HYUNDAI DOORS ARE SELF LOCKING FROM NORMAL USE WITHOUT DAMAGE AND WITHOUT WARNING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA, THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE REAR DRIVER'S AND PASSENGER'S DOORS FAILED TO UNLATCH. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN UNKNOWN HYUNDAI DEALER LOCATED IN VAN NUYS, CA, AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE LOCKS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 70,000.

I BOUGHT MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA USED 6 MONTHS AGO. 4 MONTHS AFTER I HAD IT THE CAR WAS SHAKING VIOLENTLY AND DID NOT WANT TO ACCELERATE . TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC HE SAID IT WAS MISFIRING AND REPLACED IGNITION COIL . IT WAS DRIVING FINE FOR 2 MONTHS THEN WHILE DRIVING TO WORK ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY THE CAR STARTED SHAKING VIOLENTLY AGAIN AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE TO SPEED IT WAS SHUTTING DOWN .. HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED . MECHANIC RAN A DIAGNOSTIC ON IT AND ITS READING MULTIPLE MISFIRES . I CAN NOT AFFORD CAR PAYMENT PLUS HAVING CONSTANT REPAIRS DONE EVERY COUPLE MONTHS.. THERE HAVE BEEN SO MANY OF THE SAME COMPLAINTS ON A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA ENGINE PROBLEMS. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A REAL CONCERN FOR A NEWER CAR . HYUNDAI NEEDS TO FIX THE ISSUE FOR THIS YEAR AND MODEL . OR THERE NEEDS TO BE A LAWSUIT AGAINST HYUNDAI ... THESE ARE LEMON CARS AND ARE UNSAFE TO DRIVE THEY NEED TO BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR IT .

MY CAR IS CONTINUOUSLY GETTING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON AND THE CAR RATTLES. DESPITE, VISITING THE DEALERSHIP NUMEROUS TIMES, THE SERVICE CENTER AT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP IN DICKSON CITY, PA CANNOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. 12/10/2019 - MY CAR STARTED TO SHAKE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WHEN I WAS LEAVING FOR WORK. I PULLED OVER AND TURNED OFF THE CAR. I TURNED IT ON, THE LIGHT WAS GONE. I TOOK IT THE DEALERSHIP ON VERY SAME DAY AND THE SERVICE ADVISOR SAID NOTHING IS WRONG WITH IT. ADDITIONAL SERVICES; OIL CHANGE, BRAKE FLUSH AND COOLING SYSTEM WERE COMPLETED. 12/31/2019 ' CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND CAR RATTLES WHEN I WAS DRIVING ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAY DOING AROUND 55-60 MILES PER HOUR. 01/02/2020 - I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP. THIS TIME, THE SERVICE ADVISER SAID "A LOT OF ELANTRAS ARE EXPERIENCING THIS ISSUE AND NEEDS SOFTWARE UPDATE". THEY SCANNED AND FOUND CODE P030100 / MISFIRE. TECHNICIAN PERFORMED SOFTWARE UPDATE AND ALL THE COST WAS COVERED UNDER ENGINE WARRANTY. 01/27/2020 ' CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR STARTED SHAKING AGAIN. THIS TIME, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYED ON. THEY FINALLY REPLACED SPARK-PLUGS AND COIL PACK ON CYLINDER 2. 03/20/2020 ' DUE TO CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC, I'VE BEEN WORKING REMOTELY SO I HAVEN'T DRIVEN MUCH. 04/18/2020 ' COMPLETED STATE INSPECTION AND EMISSION. SERVICE CENTER PERFORMED MULTI-POINT INSPECTION AND FOUND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE ENGINE. 07/15/2020 - THE CAR STALLS AGAIN, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF. I STOPPED DRIVING IT AND DROPPED IT OFF AT THE DEALERSHIP ON 07/17/2020. 07/18/2020 - TECHNICIAN DID A NEW SOFTWARE PATCH FOR THE SECOND TIME. ADDITIONAL SERVICES: OIL CHANGE, BATTERY AND FRONT BRAKES REPLACEMENT COMPLETED. I THINK THIS NEED TO BE INVESTIGATED AND DESERVE A FULL RECALL FOR ALL THE 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA WHO ARE EXPERIENCING ENGINE ISSUES.

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR JUST STOPPED OPENING, HAVE TO GO THROUGH PASSENGER SIDE DOOR TO OPEN DRIVERS SIDE DOOR, AND BACK PASSENGER DOOR HASN'T OPENED IN MONTHS FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, IT JUST ONE DAY DIDNT OPEN. GOOGLE HYUNDAI ELANTRA DOOR LATCH AND YOU WILL SEE MANY MORE PEOPLE VERY ANGRY WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. IT IS VERY MUCH A SAFETY ISSUE. MY CAR WAS AT A CONVIENCE STORE WHEN THE DOOR DIDNT OPEN AFTER I WENT INTO THE STORE. I AM GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP ON 7-25-20 TO GET THEM TO LOOK AT IT BUT I THINK THEY ARE GOING TO TRY AND CHARGE ME EVEN THOUGH MANY OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM THERE SHOULD ALREADY BE A RECALL IN PLACE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A GRINDING NOISE WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED WITH THE BRAKING DISTANCE BEING EXTENDED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE BRAKE ROTORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 55,428. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA GT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 65 MPH, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL NOISE COMING FROM THE ENGINE. THE CONTACT PULLED TO THE SHOULDER OF THE ROADWAY AND HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO VILES AUTOMOTIVE GROUP (905 CALLAHAN DR, KNOXVILLE, TN 37912) TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 85,000. VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

OVER THE PAST 2 WEEKS I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE HEAD LIGHTS SHUTTING OFF WILE DRIVING ON MAIN HIGHWAYS AT NIGHT. THIS HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 8 OR 9 TIMES. THEY WILL GO OFF WHEN SWITCHING FROM HIGH BEAM TO LOW BEAM. IF I PULL THE LIGHT SWITCH ARM A COUPLE TIMES THEY DO EVENTUALLY COME BACK ON. ALSO TWO TIMES IN THE PAST 2 WEEKS MY PARKING LIGHTS HAVE COME ON WHILE PARKED AND CAR IS SHUT OFF.

MY VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND LOCKED. I UNLOCKED THE DOOR WITH THE REMOTE KEY AND AFTER PULLING THE EXTERIOR DRIVER SIDE DOOR HANDLE TO OPEN THE DOOR, THE PLASTIC PIECE SURROUNDING THE AREA WHERE A KEY MAY BE INSERTED BROKE OFF AND THE HANDLE ITSELF REMAINED PULLED AWAY FROM THE CAR AND THE DOOR COULD NOT BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE. I AM NOW ONLY ABLE TO OPEN THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR USING THE INNER HANDLE AFTER CLIMBING ACROSS THE PASSENGER SEAT INSIDE THE CAR.

10/7/19 - MY CAR BATTERY WAS DEAD AFTER SITTING FOR 8 HOURS PARKED. THERE WAS NO INDICATION THAT IT WAS LOSING POWER AND I HAD BROUGHT MY VEHICLE IN TO BE SERVICED AT A HYUNDAI DEALER A WEEK BEFORE WHERE THEY SAID NO ISSUES WERE SEEN WITH MY BATTERY AT THAT TIME. I GOT A JUMP AND DROVE HOME. THE NEXT MORNING MY CAR WOULD NOT START AGAIN. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO A SHOP BECAUSE IT COULDN'T EVEN BE JUMPED AT THIS POINT. WE WERE TOLD BY THE SAME HYUNDAI DEALER THE BATTERY WAS BEYOND DEAD. AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS BARELY TWO YEARS OLD AT THIS POINT. BUT WE REPLACED IT. 7/7/20 MY BATTERY IS COMPLETELY DEAD AGAIN. CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN TODAY WITHOUT WARNING. A REPAIR SHOP TESTED IT AND IT WAS COMPLETELY DRAINED DEAD. THEY SAID IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME IN LESS THAN ONE YEAR. THIS IS NOT RIGHT.

VEHICLE IS JERKING, THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FAST ENOUGH, CODE P0190

APPROXIMATELY MAY 2019 I STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR NOT BEING ABLE TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE ALTHOUGH THE CAR WAS UNLOCKED. CURRENTLY, IT HAS BEEN STUCK CLOSED FOR NUMEROUS MONTHS NOW. TO ME, THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ANYONE RIDING IN THE REAR SEAT. ESPECIALLY IF INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT AND CAN'T GET OUT OF THE CAR. TODAY, 6/30/20 I STARTED HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR. *TR

MY 2017 WHITE PEARL HYUNDAI ELANTRA HAS HUGE PIECES OF PAINT PEELING OFF OF THE HOOD OF MY CAR. I NOTICE IT IN OCTOBER 2019 THE BIG PIECE THEN 3 MONTHS LATER SOME MORE BEGAN TO PEEL. *TR

ELECTRICAL ISSUE - FRONT PASSENGER OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE WILL NOT OPEN DOOR WITHOUT BEING PULLED SEVERAL TIMES. CAN OPEN FROM INSIDE. OTHER ISSUE - HEAT ONLY WORKS WHEN CAR IS IN MOTION, OTHERWISE IT BLOWS COLD AIR WHEN PARKED OR IDOL. HAS BEEN DOING THAT SINCE I PURCHASED IT IN 2018. *TR

THE CAR IS SERVICED EVERY 3000 MILES WITH AN OIL CHANGE. I WAS DRIVING TO WORK ONE DAY AND MY TIRES SQUALLED AND MY ENGINE LOCKED UP AND WOULD NOT START. THE ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED DO TO THE MAIN BEARINGS FAILING. *TR

I HAVE A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH PICKING UP SPEED RPMS JUMPING AND FEELING LIKE THE CAR DOESN'T WANT TO GO. THIS STARTED AT 7,000 MILES AND I BOUGHT THE CAR BRAND NEW OFF THE LOT IT HAS BEEN IN OVER 8 TIMES FOR THIS ISSUE AND HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT NOTHING IS WRONG WITH THE CAR OR THAT BECAUSE MY CAR IS NOT THROWING CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS THEY WONT FIX IT UNDER WARRANTY, OR I'M NOT USING A HYUNDAI APPROVED GAS STATION SO THIS IS WHY I'M HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR, NOW AT 29,000 MILES STILL HAVING PROBLEMS ITS THE WORST ON THE EXPRESSWAY IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC.NOW I WENT TO HAVE MY OIL CHANGED AND FOUND OUT I WAS LOW ON 2 QUARTS OF OIL AND MY SPARK PLUGS HAVE OIL ON THEM ONCE AGAIN THE CAR HAS TO GO BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP, I WAS MADE FULLY AWARE OF WHAT COULD HAPPEN IF THE ENGINE GOES. I JUST REALLY HOPE I'M NOT ON THE EXPRESSWAY WHEN THIS HAPPENS, AT THE BEGIN OF THE YEAR I NOTICED WHEN I WOULD COME TO A STOP MY HEAT WOULD DROP AND BECOME LUKE WARM IT HAS NOW BEEN INTO THE DEALERSHIP 3 TIMES THE THERMOSTAT HAS BEEN REPLACED BUT I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THIS IS NORMAL HYUNDAI VEHICLES DO THIS. MY HEAT IS DROPPING AT LEAST 58 DEGREES WHEN IDLING AND MY WINDOW IS HAVING A HARD TIME DEFROSTING UNLESS I'M DRIVING. *TR

THE ENGINE STARTED ROUGH IDLING PERIODICALLY (ONCE PER WEEK) AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS YEAR (2020). RESTARTING THE CAR WOULD USUALLY RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. IT WOULD USUALLY HAPPEN AFTER COMING TO A STOP AFTER HIGHWAY DRIVING. HOWEVER IT BEGAN HAPPENING WITH MORE FREQUENCY IN APRIL TO THE POINT THAT IT COULD HAPPEN MULTIPLE TIMES PER DAY. THE ISSUE CAME TO THE HEAD THE FIRST WEEK OF MAY WHEN THE CAR STALLED AFTER COMING TO A STOP AT A STREET LIGHT. THIS TIME IT WAS AFTER ONLY MINIMAL CITY-STREET DRIVING. I HAD TO SHIFT INTO PARK AND START THE CAR AGAIN, AFTER WHICH IT WORKED WITHOUT ISSUE. HOWEVER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON. I TOOK THE CAR TO MY MECHANIC SAME DAY AND THEY SAID THE CODE INDICATED A MISFIRE. THEY REPLACED THE SPARK PLUGS AND THE IGNITION COIL FOR THE CYLINDER THAT MISFIRED. THE FREQUENCY OF THE ISSUE DECREASED SIGNIFICANTLY AFTER THIS REPAIR, BUT IT'S STILL ROUGH IDLING ABOUT ONCE PER WEEK. I DECIDED TO RESEARCH THE PROBLEM BEFORE HAVING MORE WORK DONE AND HAVE FOUND MANY SIMILAR COMPLAINTS. THE CAR HAS 41000 MILE ON IT.

I EXPERIENCED THE CAR IDLING ROUGH WHILE IN PARK AND SOUNDING LIKE IT WANTED TO DIE OUT. I TOOK TO DEALER AND THEY REPLACED AN IGNITION COIL.THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT JUST CAME ON AGAIN YESTERDAY...TOOK IT TO AUTOZONE AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS THE IGNITION COIL AGAIN. THIS WILL THE 2ND TIME TO HAVE IT FIXED ON MY 2017.SEEMS LIKE HYUNDAI VEHICLES HAVE A TON OF ISSUES WITH IGNITION COILS. AFTER I GOT MY CAR BACK IT VIOLENTLY SHOOK AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY AND THE SPEED STARTED TO DECREASED. I REACHED OUT TO HYUNDAI CORPORATION ABOUT REPLACEMENT VEHICLE . I STILL HAVE NOT HEARD ANYTHING. I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THE FAULTY IGNITION COILS.

MY FRONT DRIVERS DOOR AS WELL AS MY BACK PASSENGER DOOR DO NOT OPEN ONCE UNLOCKED. THE FRONT ONE ONLY OPENS WITH YOU PULL THE HANDLE A BUNCH OF TIMES THE BACK PASSENGER ONE DOESN'T OPEN WHATSOEVER. *TR

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD LIKE METAL FALLING ALL THE LIGHTS ON THE DASH BOARD LIT UP, THE CAR STARTED SLOWING DOWN AND STARTED TO SMOKE THEN TURNED OFF. HAD IT TOWED TO A SERVICE STATION AND WAS TOLD THAT THE PISTON FROM THE ENGINE SHOT THREW THE OIL PAN CAUSING THE ENGINE OIL TO POUR OUT AND THE CAUSING THE ENGINE TO SEIZE. *TR

MY 2017 ELANTRA LOST POWER AND DIED WHILE I WAS DRIVING DOWN A COUNTY ROAD. HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK BEFORE IT WOULD RESTART. *TR

CAR ENGINE SMELLS LIKE IT'S BURNING

DRIVER SIDE BACK DOOR WILL NOT OPEN WITH KEY FOB OR INSIDE HANDLE. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY IN MY PARKING LOT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED BUT WAS FIRM. ADDITIONALLY, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO RESPOND WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO GENE MESSER HYUNDAI (4025 W LOOP 289, LUBBOCK, TX 79407) HOWEVER, THE MECHANIC WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS THEN TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE CONTACT WAS NOTIFIED OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V063000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC) HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 75,000. THE VIN WAS INVALID.

YES I HAD BOUGHT A USED 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA SEI THEY NEVER INFORMED ME OF ANY RECALLS ON THIS VEHICLE AFTER I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE THE MOTOR BLEW UP BECAUSE OF ONE OF THE CYLINDERS WERE STICKING BECAUSE OF A FACTORY DEFECT THEY REPLACED THE MOTOR THE SECOND MOTOR STARTED DOING THE SAME THING GETTING STUCK AND SHAKING THE STEERING WOULD LOCK UP SOMETIMES WHERE I COULD NOT EVEN STEER OR IT WAS HARD TO STEER WHY EVEN WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR THEY DID NOT INFORM ME OF RECALLS WHEN I TALK TO THE CAR BACK AND HAVE THE MOTOR REPLACED THEY STILL DID NOT INFORM ME OF ANY RECALLS THESE THINGS COST ME TO HAVE AN ACCIDENT AND HIT A TELEPHONE POLE AND TOTALED MY VEHICLE

THE EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE ON MY DRIVERS SIDE STOPPED WORKING AND NOW I CAN ONLY OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE. THIS HAPPENED RANDOMLY AFTER I WAS PARKED IN A PARKING LOT FOR ONLY 4 HOURS. IT WAS WORKING FINE BEFORE THAT.

I BOUGHT A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA LIMITED EDITION AT THE END OF 2016 IT HAD 43 MILES ON IT. I HAVE TAKING IT TO ABOUT 6 DIFFERENT DEALERSHIPS DUE TO TRANSMISSION ISSUES AND ENGINE POWER LOSS AND OUT IF THE 6 I HAVE GONE MORE THE A FEW TIMES. THEIR RESPONSE TO MY CONCERNS ABOUT THE CAR IS WE CANNOT REPRODUCE THIS SO THERE IS NO PROBLEM OR THERE'S NOT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON. EVERY DEALERSHIP THAT I HAVE GONE TO REPEAT THIS SAYING OVER AND OVER. WHEN MY CAR SHIFTS INTO SECOND GEAR IT'S ALMOST AS IF THAT GEAR HAS TWO MORE LIKE DRIVING A STICK SHIFT BUT YOU'RE SHIFTING TOO SOON SO IT SPITS AND SPUTTERS, IN ADDITION TO THIS 3RD 4TH 5TH GEAR HAS A LONG DELAY IN SHIFTING IT ALSO FEELS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING AS THE RPMS AND SPEED COME UP IT FEELS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION GRIPS AND YOU CAN FEEL THE TORQUE KICK IN IF YOU WILL. THERE'S BEEN MANY TIMES I HAVE TO MANUALLY SHIFT THE CAR OUT OF 5TH INTO 6TH AND A FEW TIMES OUT OF 4TH. MY CAR HAS 38970 MILES ON IT. I HAD THE TRANSMISSION FLUSH AND THE ENGINE, IGNITION COILS HAVE BEEN REPLACED, I USE PREMIUM GAS AND FUEL INJECTIONS CLEARER. NOWADAYS WHEN I'M DRIVING I HAVE TO PUSH THE GAS PEDAL HALFWAY DOWN FOR THE CAR TO ACTUALLY MOVE. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON ABOUT SIX MONTHS AFTER I GOT THIS CARD.

WHILE DRIVING IN THE EXPRESSWAY OR ROAD THE CAR WILL SUDDENLY SHUT OFF. ALL OF THE LIGHTS WILL COME ON IN THE DASHBOARD AND I HAVE TO PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL OR PARK TO START IT BACK UP. IT WILL ALSO SHUT OFF IF I'M TURNING SLOWLY AROUND A CORNER OR IF I COME TO A COMPLETE STOP AFTER DRIVING FOR AWHILE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE ATTEMPTING TO MOVE FROM COMING TO A YIELD, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED AND THE VEHICLE STALLED WITH THE BATTERY, OIL PRESSURE AND CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE FAILED TO RESTART. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO CRAIN HYUNDAI OF LITTLE ROCK LOCATED AT (11701 COLONEL GLENN RD, LITTLE ROCK, AR 72210) TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 76,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING AT 40 MPH, THE VEHICLE SHUDDERED EXCESSIVELY AND STALLED WITH THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE ACCELERATOR WAS RELEASED AND THE VEHICLE OPERATED AS DESIGNED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO ROGERS AUTO GROUP CHICAGO LOCATED AT (2720 S MICHIGAN AVE, CHICAGO, IL 60616) WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS DIAGNOSED WITH A DEFECTIVE UNKNOWN SENSOR. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 32,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED AND THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE WHICH RESUMED NORMAL OPERATION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO O'BRIEN HYUNDAI OF FORT MYERS LOCATED AT (2850 COLONIAL BLVD, FORT MYERS, FL 33966 (888) 461-3831) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED AND DETERMINED THAT THERE WAS METAL SHAVINGS IN THE VALVES AND THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATION 117,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

ALL THE DOORS ARE LOCKING AND DO NOT WANT TO OPEN. IT FIRST STARTED WITH THE BACK DRIVERS SIDE DOOR THEN THE BACK PASSENGER SIDE DOOR AND NOW THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IS NOT WANTING TO OPEN. IT'S A HAZARD IN CASE THERE IS A CAR FIRE

I HAD THE RECALL ON MY CAR FIXED BUT IT IS DOING THE SAME THING AGAIN. WHEN I SLOW DOWN IT WILL JUST CUT OFF ON YOU.

IN JANUARY OF 2019,MY CAR BEGAN SHUTTING OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING. THE BATTERY LIGHT WOULD APPEAR ON THE DASHBOARD BEFORE THE CAR WOULD COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. I TRIED TO HAVE IT FIX BUT NOTHING WORKED. I'M SEPTEMBER 2019, AS I WAS DRIVING 60MPH ON THE HIGHWAY, I SUDDENLY HEARD A LOUD NOISE AFTER WHICH MY CAR SHUT OFF AND WOULD NOT START AGAIN. I WAS ABLE TO HAVE IT TOWED TO THE NEAREST HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP AND WAS TOLD I NEEDED A NEW ALTERNATOR, BATTERY, AND THERE WAS A MISFIRING. ALL THESE ISSUES WERE'FIXED'. MY CAR HAS CONTINUED TO SHUT OFF AND I HAD TO BRING THE CAR BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP AT WHICH I WAS TOLD THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. SOMETHING IS SERIOUSLY WRONG WITH THIS VEHICLE AND I AM ANXIOUS AND SCARED TO DRIVE THIS CAR. I HAVE HAD TO BUY 3-5 BATTERIES SINCE PURCHASING THIS VEHICLE IN 2016. MY CAR IS CURRENTLY AT THE DEALERSHIP DUE TO THIS ISSUE.

ENGINE WILL SPONTANEOUSLY SHUT OFF WITHOUT NOTICE WHILE DRIVING OR STATIONARY. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON THE STREET AND ON THE FREEWAY. THERE IS NO NOTICE PRIOR TO CALL STALLING (ENGINE SHUTTING). CAR MUST BE PLACED IN NEUTRAL OR PARK AND THEN RESTARTED. CAR WAS TAKEN TO HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP FOR FULL DIAGNOSTIC WITH NO FINDINGS.

THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS ON BOTH REAR DOORS HAVE FAILED PREVENTING THE DOORS FROM BEING OPENED FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE BECAUSE THE LOCKS WILL NOT DISENGAGE. THIS PRESENTS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE SINCE ANY REAR PASSENGERS ARE FORCED TO EXIT THE VEHICLE THROUGH THE FRONT DOORS OF THE VEHICLE. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH HYUNDAI VEHICLES AND CAN COST SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS TO REPAIR A PART THAT IS NOT GENERALLY CONSIDERED CONSUMABLE.

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELENTRA 2.0 LOSE POWER AND START JACKING. I WAS TOLD TO CHANGE COILS AND STARK PLUGS. THIS ALWAYS HAPPENS ON HIGHWAY. I CHANGE THEM IN MAY 2019. MY CAR STARTED JACKING AGAIN THIS MONTH. I BROUGHT NEW STARK PLUGS FROM HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP TODAY.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA; THE PAINT IS PEELING AWAY ON THE ROOF AND, HOOD AND FRONT BUMPER.

LEFT REAR DOOR WILL NOT OPEN USING EITHER THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE HANDLE. DOOR IS UNLOCKED AND THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK IS OFF BUT THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN USING EITHER HANDLE. HAPPENS EVERY TIME YOU TRY TO OPEN THE DOOR AFTER STOPPING. ALL THE DOORS UNLOCK BUT ONLY THE LEFT REAR ONE WILL NOT OPEN. IF YOU HIT THE SIDE OF THE CAR BY THE HANDLE WITH YOUR PALM THE DOOR WILL UNLOCK AFTER A FEW TRIES, VERY STRANGE. WOULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE DURING AN ACCIDENT OR EMERGENCY WITH A CAR SEAT OR PASSENGERS IN THE BACK SEAT AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO GET THEM OUT.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. CAR IS SHAKING HEAVILY AT IDLE, NO CODES OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. NO ONE WILL DIAGNOSE, TURNED AWAY BY DEALERSHIP. WHEN TURNING CAR WILL STALL MIDDLE OF INTERSECTION, THIS HAS HAPPENED TWICE. THIS IS UNSAFE AND DEALERSHIP WILL NOT HELP ME AND I AM TURNED AWAY. I'M STARTING TO WORRY ABOUT THE SAFETY OF MY CAR. I MAINTAIN IT UP TO MANUFACTURER STANDARDS. TRANSMISSION IS CLUNKY AND NOT WORKING WELL. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, NO CODES. DEALERSHIP AND OTHER MECHANICS WILL NOT LOOK INTO ISSUES. TRANSMISSION IS SEALED SYSTEM BUT IS IN NEED OF FLUID CHANGE. FLUID IS DIRTY AND FILLED WITH METAL AT 55,000 MILES. OTHER PEOPLE COMPLAIN OF SAME ISSUE AT 35000 MILES. DEALERSHIPS SAY THIS IS A LIFETIME SYSTEM AND DOES NOT NEED SERVICE. THIS CAR IS STARTING TO SEEM UNSAFE. THE AMOUNT OF COMPLAINTS ON HYUNDAI FORUMS TO THIS NATURE SHOULD REFLECT SOME NEED TO MAKE THE CAR NOT DANGEROUS.

STEERING WHEEL IS GETTING HARD TO TURN AT TIMES. IT FEELS LIKE IT IS STICKING WHILE DRIVING

BACK PASSENGER DOORS WILL NOT OPEN

PUSH BUTTON START GETS STUCK

BOUGHT THIS CAR FROM A DEALER SHIP WITH 40,000 MILES IT NOW HAS 70,000 MILES IN BETWEEN 40K & 70K IT'S BEEN SHAKING LOSS OF POWER NO ACCELERATION HORRIBLE ON FUEL .. I'VE CHANGE SPARK PLUGS IGNITION COIL MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR AND STILL GIVES ME CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND STILL SAYING P304 WHICH IS A MISFIRE IN CYLINDER 4 I JUST DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO ANYMORE HYUNDAI WANT A TO CHARGE ME TO TAKE IT IN DIAGNOSED IT AND I JUST DON'T HAVE THE CASH FOR THIS CAR PLEASE HELP IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING ELSE BOUT THIS CAELR THANKS

MY VEHICLE IS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA WITH 41,000 MILES. I AM THE SECOND OWNER. ON DECEMBER 3RD, 2019, I WAS DRIVING VEHICLE CAR APPROXIMATELY 60 MPH ON THE HIGHWAY IN TRAFFIC. AS MY FOOT WAS PRESSING ON THE ACCELERATOR, THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO SLOW DOWN, AND THE RPM NEEDLE BEGAN TO BOUNCE AROUND. I PULLED MY VEHICLE OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND RESTARTED THE VEHICLE. THE ENGINE LIGHT WAS NOT ON. AT THIS POINT THE DEALERSHIP WAS NOT OPEN AND THE ENGINE LIGHT WAS NOT ON, SO I DECIDED TO WAIT TILL THE MORNING TO CONTACT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP. AS I DROVE HOME, I STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO STALL. I PULLED THE CAR INTO THE NEAREST PARKING LOT AND LEFT IT THERE OVERNIGHT. THE HYUNDAI SHOP KEPT MY VEHICLE TWO DAYS. THEY GAVE ME A LOANER CAR FOR THE SECOND DAY, SO I DID NOT MISS ANOTHER DAY AT WORK. THEY STATED THE ISSUE WAS 'FAULTY IGNITION COILS' AND REPLACED THE WIRES. IT WAS COVERED UNDER MANUFACTURES WARRANTEE THANKFULLY. TODAY, DECEMBER 12TH, I GOT IN MY VEHICLE TO GO TO WORK AND THE VEHICLE SHOOK WHEN I STARTED IT. THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON IMMEDIATELY AND I CALLED THE MAINTENANCE SHOP. THEY HAD A LOANER FOR ME WAITING, AND I AM NOW WAITING TO HEAR WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT THIS TIME. I HAVE PUT ON APPROXIMATELY 400 MILES ON THE VEHICLE IN THE LAST 4 DAYS.

PURCHASED CAR FROM DRIVETIME MARCH 2019- HAD SPORADIC PROBLEMS WITH STEERING, WITH ACCELERATION ISSUES. CAR WAS DRIVING OK UNTIL THE WEEK OF DEC. 1ST -CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON 12/4 THEN WENT OFF. ON 12/5 CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND BATTERY CAME ON AND CAR STOPPED WORK WHILE IN PARKING LOT, AFTER 20 MINUTES TURNED CAR ON-IT STARTED UP ,BUT KEPT SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING ON CITY STREETS. ENDED UP AT THE PEPBOY'S DIAGNOSED WITH ENGINE FAILURE.

FOUR DAYS AGO, AFTER THE CAR WAS PARKED, A PASSENGER COULDN'T GET OUT OF THE BACK SEAT ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE SINCE THE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN (HE FINALLY HAD TO SLIDE OVER TO GET OUT THE OTHER SIDE). IT SEEMS IT WOULD NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT SEEMS TO HAPPEN TO MANY OTHER OWNERS AS WELL, AS SEEN ON THE INTERNET WHILE LOOKING FOR A SOLUTION. IT IS STILL A PROBLEM NOW, WHETHER THE DOOR IS LOCKED OR NOT.

A FEW WEEKS AGO I HAD TO BRAKE REALLY HARD WHEN STOPPING AND I NOTICED THAT MY SEAT BELT DIDN'T LOCK. I HAVE TESTED THE SEAT BELTS A FEW TIMES SINCE THEN AND BOTH THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER SEAT BELTS DID NOT LOCK ANY OF THE TIMES.

REAR PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE DESPITE THE CHILD LOCKS NOT BEING ON OR THE LOCK ENGAGED. IT CLICKS AS IF THE DOOR HAS BEEN UNLOCKED BUT WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL. CAR IS IN PARK. THIS COULD POTENTIALLY BE A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE AS YOU WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO GET SOMEONE IN THE BACKSEAT OUT OF THE CAR.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER'S SEAT BELT FAILED TO RETRACT AND LOCK INTO POSITION. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 66,000.

CAR VERY UNSTABLE SUSPENSIONS VERY WEEK FRONT AND BACK CAR BOUNCING AND SHAKE SIDE WAYS WORST IN THE HIGHWAY

I GOT MY ELANTRA BRAND NEW! I TRADED A 2016 SHAKER CHALLENGER...I HAVE HAD IT ABOUT 2 YEARS. WITH LESS THEN 80,000 MILES ON MY ENGINE AND I HAVE NEVER HAD ANY ACCIDENTS. MY ENGINE JUST SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. AS I TRY TURNING IT BACK ON, THERE IS A CLANGING NOISE FROM UNDER THE HOOD...CAR WOULDNT ACCELERATE OVER 35 OR SO...I LIMPED HOME HAVING THE CAR SHUT OFF AT LEAST 4 TIMES WITHIN 15 MILES. BARELY MAKING IT HOME. I HAVE HAD REGULAR OIL CHANGES AS MY GRANDPARENTS OWN A SHOP IN PRINCETON JUST A COUPLE TOWNS AWAY...MY CAR HAS SAT IN MY SHOP FOR ALMOST A YEAR NOW...ITS VERY DISAPPOINTING. I LOST A JOB AND HAVE STILL NOT BEEN ABLE TO GET A DIFFERENT VEHICLE GOING OR EVEN AFFORD TO GET THIS ONE FIXED, AS I AM A SINGLE MOTHER OF 4 KIDS. I AM A VERY SAFE AND CAUTIOUS DRIVER. I HAD JUST ASKED A SHOP ABOUT PRICING AN ENGINE REBUILD AND THEY ARE THE ONES WHO INFORMED ME THAT THE 2017 2.0 HAS A RECALL AND TO LOOK INTO THIS FURTHER...PLEASE HELP... -A DESPERATE MOTHER

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 25 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND FUNCTIONED NORMALLY; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE SHAFT SENSOR WAS REPLACED TWICE, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO PARKWAY HYUNDAI (24050 CREEKSIDE RD, SANTA CLARITA, CA 91355, (661) 750-4042) WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THERE WAS NO FAILURE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THERE WAS NO FAILURE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 66,793.

3RD CYLINDER PISTON FELL APART INSIDE IS MOTOR . CAR ONLY HAS 61,000 MILES. VEHICLE WAS ON HIGHWAY

1.THE CAR WHILE REVERSING INTO DRIVEWAY SHOOK VIOLENTLY AND HAD A COMPLETE LOSS OF POWER. (M.I.L, BATTERY, & OIL PRESSURE) LIGHT ALL CAME ON AT ONCE. RESTARTED CAR MANAGING TO GET IT OFF THE STREET AND IT DIED AGAIN WITHIN FEET. CAR WAS TOWED TO DEALERSHIP AND NOTHING FOUND. 8/31/18 2. THE CAR 11 DAYS LATER ATTEMPTED TO SHUT OFF WHILE STOPPED ON A ELEVATED HIGHWAY OFF RAMP. I WAS FORCED TO MAKE AN ILLEGAL TURN TO PREVENT CAR FROM SHUTTING OFF AND POTENTLY ROLLING BACK. REVERSING IN DRIVEWAY AGAIN CAR ATTEMPTED TO SHUT OFF BUT WAS NOT SUCCESSFUL. THE SAME LIGHTS AS BEFORE DISPLAYED AGAIN. DEALER CLEANED PCM & BATTERY GROUNDS. 9/10/2018 3. 9/20/19 WHILE PARKED THE CAR ATTEMPTED TO STALLED. THE RPM'S DROPPED QUICK AND STABILIZED. NO LIGHTS DISPLAYED. DEALER HAS NOT CHECK OUT THE VEHICLE YET BUT HYUNDAI HAS BEEN MADE AWARE OF THIS. 4.THE VEHICLE WHILE ACCELERATING UP MY EMPLOYERS DRIVE WAS THE CAR HESITATES UNLESS GAS IS PRESSED MORE THEN NORMAL. THE CAR HAS NOT STALLED YET ON THESE CONDITIONS. THE VEHICLE HAS HAD ALL SERVICE DONE ON THE INTERVALS PER HYUNDAI. THE VEHICLE CURRENTLY HAD JUST OVER 16K MILES. THE VEHICLE ON THE FIRST 2 OCCASIONS WERE BOTH ON SOME FORM OF A SLIGHT GRADE. THE 3RD TIME WAS ON A FLAT STREET. FINALLY THE CAR IN 3 OF THE 4 OCCASIONS ALL INVOLVED INCLINES OF DIFFERENT GRADES.

WHEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY FOR A SHORT ROAD TRIP THE ENGINE WARNING LIGHT AND BELL CAME ON SAYING THAT THE ENGINE WAS OVERHEATING. PULLED OVER ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND POPPED THE HOOD TO FIND THE RADIATOR WET AND SMELLING SWEET. I LIMPED THE CAR THE FEW MILES AND HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP. THE DEALER SHIP STATED THAT THE RADIATOR FAN WAS LOOSE CAUSING THE BLADE TO RUB A WHOLE IN THE RADIATOR CAUSING A HOLE TO FORM. THEY ALSO REPLACED THE OIL IN THE CAR TO ENSURE THAT THE OIL WAS NOT COMPROMISED AFTER GETTING SO HOT. REPLACED WITH HAVOLINE SYNTHETIC.

FIRST WINTER WITH THE CAR AND I HAD A WEIRD SOUND COMING FROM THE STEERING WHEN TURNING. I SET UP AN APPOINTMENT WITH THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP. THEY TOOK THE CAR IN AND FOUND THAT THERE WAS ICE PACKED AROUND STEERING RACK. THE CAR IS PARKED OUTSIDE ON THE STREET OR ALSO OFF THE ROAD IN MY DRIVEWAY. THIS HAS HAPPENED EVERY YEAR SINCE I HAVE OWNED THE CAR BUT I HAVE ONLY TAKEN IT DOWN ONCE. WHEN I CALL THE APPOINTMENT IS USUALLY DAYS OUT. NY WINTERS.

CAR WAS INVOLVED IN A LEFT FRONTAL/UNDERCARRIAGE ACCIDENT AFTER BEING RUN OFF THE INTERSTATE BY AN INATTENTIVE DRIVER. VEHICLE WAS TRAVELLING AT APPROXIMATELY 40MPH UPON IMPACT WITH A LARGE DRAIN GRATE IN A POTHOLE. IMPACT SHOULD HAVE BEEN SUFFICIENT ENOUGH TO DEPLOY THE FRONTAL AIRBAGS. SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS DEPLOYED, FRONT AIRBAGS DID NOT. VEHICLE WAS DEEMED A TOTAL LOSS. NO MAJOR INJURIES OCCURRED, ONLY MINOR BRUISING AND BURNS AS A RESULT OF SIDE CURTAIN AIR BAG DEPLOYMENT. DRIVER AND TWO CHILDREN WERE INSIDE THE VEHICLE UPON IMPACT, ALL PROPERLY RESTRAINED BY SEAT BELTS. POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. EMERGENCY MEDICAL AND FIRE WERE DISPATCHED AS WELL. ACCIDENT OCCURRED ON INTERSTATE 95 S, IN SAVANNAH, GA.

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY MY HEADLIGHTS SHUT OFF COMPLETELY. LEAVING US DRIVING IN THE DARK. IT HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES ESPECIALLY WHEN TRYING TO USE BLINKERS OR SWITCH HIGH BEAMS ON OR OFF. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAY IT'S THE MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH AND WANT 372.84 TO REPLACE IT. MY WARRANTY HAS JUST RUN OUT AND I HAVE ALREADY HAD TO REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT AND NOW THIS IS OUT AS WELL AS THE BACK DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW, IT'S A 2017. I FEEL THE SWITCH AND POSSIBLY THE BACK DOOR ACTUATOR MUST BE FAULTY.

SEVERAL TIMES WHILE DRIVING IN THE DARK WHEN SWITCHING FROM LOW TO HIGH BEAMS OR HIGH TO LOW BEAMS, ALL LIGHTS GO OFF CAUSING A VERY BAD SAFETY ISSUE! THEY COME BACK ON AFTER SEVERAL SECONDS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHETHER THE VEHICLE WAS STOPPED OR WHILE DRIVING IN TRAFFIC AND ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE, THE VEHICLE HESITATED AND JERKED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO KEN GARFF HYUNDAI (717 SOUTH WEST TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 84101, 801-257-3200) WHERE THE DUAL CLUTCH WAS RESET; HOWEVER, THE REPAIR DID NOT CORRECT THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO YOUNG HYUNDAI (333 WALL AVENUE, OGDEN UT, 84401) WHERE IT WAS KEPT FOR SIX DAYS. THE DEALER CLEANED THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, BUT THE FAILURE CONTINUED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200.

I HAD BEFORE A CAR HYUNDAY ELANTRA 2013, AND THAT CAR HAS RECALL BECAUSE HAVE SOME PROBLEMS WITH THE BREAKS, AND AFTER THAT CARR I BUYED A HYUNDAY ELANTRA 2017, ITS WAS THE SAME THINK WITH THE BREAKS WHEN THE ROAD WAS WET THE BREAKS DO NOT WORK AND THEY MAKE A NOISE, I HAD ACCIDENT WHEN WAS RAINING MY CAR HIT WITH THE CONCRETE FENCE, THE CRASH WAS SO BAD BUT ITNS VERY RARE , THE CAR IS TOTAL LOST AND THE AIRBAGS NEVER WAS DEPLOYED PLEASE CAN YOU INVESTIGATE THAT ISSUE , BECAUSE I THINK THE AIRBAG NEVER WORKS. I DONT KNOW WHAT KINDA OR MAKE AIR BAGS ARE..I AM OK BUT THAT WHY A LOT O PEOPLE DIE.MY CAR WAS IN MOTION IN A HIGHWAY

WHEN DRIVING AT SLOW SPEEDS ON ISDE STREETS IT IS DIFFICULT TO TURN THE VEHICLE, FEELS LIKE STEERING WHEEL IS ABOUT TO LOCK UP. THERE ARE RECALLS ON 2017 HYUNDIA ELANTRAS BUT WHEN I CALLED THEY SAID NOT ON MY VEHICLE. I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AS OTHER 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRAS BUT MIGHT ISN'T COVERED?

MY CAR INTERMITTENTLY BEGINS TO IDLE ROUGH AND STALL WHILE IN DRIVE. THE SYSTEM CHECK IN THE CAR NORMALLY REVEALS NOTHING. ON OCCASION IT WILL GIVE A MESSAGE REGARDING THE EMS. , I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP, AND ASK THEM TO CHECK AND THEY COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG. THIS CHECK WAS DONE AT APPROXIMATELY 59,000 MILES. AFTER THE SYSTEM CHECK AT THE DEALERSHIP THE AUTOMOBILE STOP HAVING STALLING PROBLEMS FOR A WHILE. THE CAR IS NOW AT 76000 + MILES AND IS BEGINNING TO STALL AGAIN WHILE IN DRIVE. IT IS ALSO SHOWING SIGNS OF IDLING ROUGH WITH NO INDICATOR OR SYSTEM CHECK REVEALING ANY PROBLEM. JUST RECENTLY IT HAS BEGIN TO STALL AGAIN AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON INTERMITTENTLY AND THEN GOES BACK OFF. THIS PRESENTS A SAFETY HAZARD WHEN DRIVING OR TRANSPORTING OTHERS. SPECIFICALLY, ROUGH IDLING CAN HAPPEN WHEN THE CAR IS IN PARK. STALLING OF THE ENGINE OCCURS WHEN THE CAR IS IN DRIVE ONLY OR IN REVERSE GEAR.

WHEN I GO AROUND CURVES (LEFT HAND) MY TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WILL FLASH AND I WILL NOT HAVE CONTROL OVER MY BRAKES (IT WILL FEEL AS IF I AM HYDROPLANING) THIS OCCURS RANDOMLY AND FOR NOT SET REASON/ I AM NOT SPEEDING OR HITTING MY BRAKES WHEN THIS OCCURS. I HAVE BEEN TOLD FROM MY DEALERSHIP THAT I NEEDED TIRES, I GOT TIRES, AND IT IS STILL HAPPENING.

WHILE TRYING TO INCREASE SPEED TO GET ON HIGHWAY THE RPM INCREASED BUT MY CAR WOULD NOT SPEED UP. HAS HAPPENED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRONT AND REAR PASSENGER DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN FROM OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

MY ELANTRA TURNED OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING IT, WITHIN 30 MINUTES THE CAR TURNED OFF 3 FREAKING TIMES, WHICH ALMOST CAUSED AN ACCIDENT BUT I MANAGED TO TURN VEHICLE ON RIGHT AWAY AND MOVE TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. NO WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS CAME, THANK GOD I WAS ALONE AND DID NOT HAVE MY 5 YEAR OLD WITH ME. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO REALLY LOOK INTO ALL THESE PROBLEMS ASAP

3 OUT OF 4 OF MY DOORS DO NOT OPEN ON MY ELANTRA WHICH IS A SAFETY HAZARD IF AN ACCIDENT WERE TO OCCUR, THINLY DOOR THAT OPENS IS THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR!

STATIONARY VEHICLE WITH OEM HANKOOK TIRES DEVELOPED SEVERE SIDEWALL CRACKING, NECESSITATING REPLACEMENT. WARRANTY WOULD NOT COVER REPLACEMENT AS THEY WOULD NOT COVER TIRE DAMAGE WHEN VEHICLE NOT IN MOTION. DEALERSHIP SAID THEY WOULD ATTEMPT TO CONTACT MANUFACTURER, AND WOULD REACH OUT IF A PARTIAL CREDIT WAS AVAILABLE. NO WORD AT THIS TIME.

ENGINE DIES INTERMITTENTLY AT VARIOUS SPEEDS. RMP'S DROP, ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND ENGINE DIES. AT TIMES THERE WILL BE A SHAKE FROM THE ENGINE AND A LOUD RUMBLING SOUND WHILE THE FAN WAS ON PRIOR TO ENGINE SHUTTING OFF. VEHICLE DOES RESTART IMMEDIATELY 90% OF THE TIME AND DRIVES NORMAL. THESE EPISODES HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES WHILE DRIVING. AT ONE POINT I HAD MY CHILD IN THE VEHICLE, I WAS ENTERING THE INTERSTATE AND THE ENTRANCE RAMP WAS ONTO THE FAST LANE IN RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC. I WAS TRAVELING AT A FAST SPEED OF APPROX. 65-70 MPH AS MY VEHICLE STALLED ONCE AGAIN, I LOST CONTROL OF STEERING POWER. THERE WERE SEVERAL VEHICLES BEHIND ME THAT HAD TO SLAM ON THEIR BRAKES AND VEER OFF THE ROAD TO AVOID HITTING ME. IT WAS A VERY SCARY SITUATION TO BE IN, NEVERTHELESS UNSAFE. MY VEHICLE HAS BEEN SERVICED WITH MY LOCAL HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP 3 TIMES AS OF TODAY. IT'S GOING BACK TODAY FOR A 4TH ATTEMPT. SERVICE CALL #1: CANNOT DUPLICATE AND NO CODES PRESENT, BRING BACK WHEN IT HAPPENS AGAIN. SERVICE CALL #2: CANNOT DUPLICATE AND NO CODES PRESENT, RESET ADAPTIVE VALUES AND ROAD TESTED RESCANNED NO CODES PRESENT, BRING BACK IF ANY OTHER ISSUES. SERVICE CALL #3: FINALLY GOT A DUPLICATION, NO CODES PRESENT STILL, REPLACED FRONT ENGINE COVER AND EXHAUST CVVT PHASER PER HYUNDAI TECH LINE. AFTER HAVING MY VEHICLE BACK FOR THE THIRD ATTEMPT THE ENGINE DIES TWICE WITHIN 45 MINUTES.

THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS HAPPENED WHEN DRIVING ON THE ROAD THE CAR STARTED SHAKING IT WOULD NOT INCREASE IN SPEED TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER IT WAS THE IGNITION COIL #3 THE DEALER STATED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AND MIGHT HAPPEN AGAIN AS HYUNDAI WILL NOT COVER TO REPLACE ALL 4 COILS JUST THE BAD ONE THAT WAS IN MAY 2019 NOW IT STARTED SHAKING AGAIN THIS TIME I WAS BACKING UP OUT OF A PARKING SPOT IT IS IGNITION COIL #4 ONLY 3 MONTHS LATER I HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND WAI FOR THE SHAKING TO STOP BLOCKING TRAFFIC

REAR UPPER BUMPER BECAME LOOSE AND FELL OFF OF CAR WHILE DRIVING ON SOUTH PARKWAY FRONT FENDER IS LOOSE AS WELL

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY SHUT OFF. MOMENTS LATER, AFTER RESTARTING THE ENGINE, THE VEHICLE OPERATED NORMALLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. FLINT HILLS HYUNDAI (7920 E. HIGHWAY 24, MANHATTAN, KS) WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 65,000.

THE VEHICLE ORIGINAL PAINT JOB IS PEELING, HOOD, ROOF , NO INDICATION OF HAIL DAMAGE, ACCIDENT OR ETC...

'TAKATA RECALL' I HAVE NOTICED THAT MY TRANSMISSION SKIPS OR JERKS RANDOMLY. AS I'M DRIVING ON THE STREETS OR ON THE HIGHWAY... MY RPM'S WILL JUMP UP TO 3, 4, OR SOMETIMES 5 WHEN I'M DRIVING AND HOLDING STEADY AT 2 RPM'S. I ALWAYS DRIVE THE SPEED LIMIT AND NEVER FLOOR MY GAS PEDAL. IT ALSO WILL FEEL LIKE IT'S NOT CATCHING THE GEARS CORRECTLY AND WILL JERK. THIS IS SOMETHING I HAVE NOTICED OVER THE YEARS WITH MY CAR BUT SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE OVER TIME. I DO ALSO HAVE TROUBLE IF I CHANGE MY DRIVE MODE TO 'SPORT'. THE TRANSMISSION DOESN'T SEEM TO GRIP THE GEARS WHEN NEEDED SO I NEVER REALLY USE THE SPORT MODE.

MY CAR WAS PARKED AND ALL OF A SUDDEN I NOTICED THE HEADLIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS TURNED ON. THERE WAS AN INCIDENT WHERE I LIVE THAT THE FIRE ALARM WENT OFF IN THE APARTMENT BUILDING AND I JUST HAPPENED TO BE STANDING OUTSIDE AND MY CAR'S EXTERIOR LIGHTS TURNED ON BY THEMSELVES. I HAD MY KEY AND I TRIED TO TURN OFF THE CAR REMOTELY, BUT THE LIGHTS WOULD NOT SHUT OFF. I HAD TO GO TO MY CAR, TURN IT ON, AND THEN SHUT IT OFF. THE SAME THING HAPPENED AGAIN THE NEXT DAY ABOUT THE SAME TIME AROUND 11 P.M. I DID THE SAME THING. TURNED THE CAR ON AND OFF AND THEN SHUT IT OFF AND USED THE KEY REMOTE TO LOCK IT. WHAT IS WORSE, WHILE I WAS DRIVING AT NIGHT, I HAD MY RIGHT BLINKER ON TO MAKE A RIGHT TURN, AND I NOTICED THE HEAD LAMPS COMPLETELY WENT DARK WHEN I TURNED AND I DIDN'T DO ANYTHING, THE HEAD LIGHTS CAME BACK ON BY THEMSELVES. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION TO BE IN. PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THIS.

RECENTLY MY VEHICLE STARTED HAVING AN ISSUE WITH THE HEADLIGHTS INTERMITTENTLY GOING OUT WHILE DRIVING. THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES NOW AND NO ROOT CAUSE CAN BE FOUND, THIS OCCURS WITH NO WARNING AND WHILE DRIVING AT SPEED. THERE ARE ALSO NO LIGHTS OR MESSAGES DISPLAYING. VERY SCRAY ON A DARK RURAL ROAD WITHOUT WARNING.

OVER THE COURSE OF MY OWNERSHIP MY SUN VISORS BOTH DRIVER SIDE AND PASSENGER HAVE LOOSENED AND NOW HAVE COME LOOSE FROM THE HOUSING, CAUSING THEM TO NOT WORK PROPERLY. THEY NOW WILL NOT STAY UP COMPLETELY AND WHEN YOU HIT A BUMP THEY POP DOWN UNEXPECTEDLY HAMPERING YOUR VISION CAUSING A HUGE HAZARD. THIS HAPPENS EVERY TIME I DRIVE AND HAVE TO REMOVE THEM AND TRY TO FIND REPLACEMENTS TO KEEP FROM DIEING ON THE HIGHWAY.

THERE IS A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. THERE IS LOSS OF POWER . ENGINE DOES NOT RUN PROPERLY. CORRECTLY. THE DEALERSHIP CAN NOT FIND A FAULT CODE SO CAN NOT FIX IT. THE CAR IS STILL UNDER FULL WARRANTY WITH PREMIUM EXTENDED WARRANTY

MY ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON SEVERAL TIMES THE CAR STARTS TO ACT LIKE IT'S GOING TO STALL THEN THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON THERE IS LIKE NO POWER TO THE CAR A YEAR AGO I WAS DRIVING UP A OVERPASS AND MY CAR STALLED AND THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON I SERIOUSLY COULD OF GOT KILLED I WANT ANSWERS TO WHY THE ENGINE LIGHT AND THE CAR STARTS TO BREAK DOWN APPARENTLY I FEEL IT'S THE ENGINE OR THE POWER SYSTEM IS FAILING .

SINCE I HAVE HAD THE CAR FROM 2017 TO NOW, THERE HAS ALWAYS BEEN AN ISSUE WITH THE ENGINE. THE CAR WILL SHAKE AND THEN SLOW FOR A FEW SECONDS AND THE ENGINE LIGHT WILL POP ON. THE BREAKS ARE SOMETIMES VERY HARD. I SOMETIMES HAVE TO PUSH HARDER ON THEM, BUT THEN THEY MAKE A WEIRD NOISE. IT IS QUITE SCARY.

BACK DOOR ON DRIVERS SIDE WILL NOT OPEN. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET OUT OF CAR IN AN EMERGENCY. I HAVE SEEN ON THE INTERNET SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD THE SAME THING HAPPEN. I THINK HYUNDAI SHOULD HAVE TO COVER THE COST OF GETTING THIS FIXED EVEN IF IT IS OUT OF WARRANTY FOR MILEAGE.

DRIVER DOOR WHEN IT IS UNLOCKING WE CANNOT OPEN IT FROM THE OUTSIDE. THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR DOES NOT OPEN AT ALL. IT HASN'T OPENED IN A FEW MONTHS. I DON'T USE THE BACK OF THE CAR BEING AS IT'S JUST ME AND MY HUSBAND. TODAY WE TOOK MY IN-LAWS TO THE STORE AND MY FATHER IN LAW COULDN'T BUCKLE BECAUSE THE THING THAT HOLDS THE SEAT BELT WAS LOCKED DOWNWARD AND WOULD NOT LATCH.

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA IS HAVING SOME TYPE OF MANUFACTURE DEFECT IN THE PAINT JOB. IT STARTED OUT AS ONE SPOT ON THE DRIVER SIDE ON THE HOOD OF THE CAR WHERE THE PAINT LIFTED JUST FROM WIND RESISTANT AND HARD RAIN. THE PAINT BEGAN TO CHIP AROUND THE AREA AND PUCKLE UP. A COUPLE DAYS LATER ON PASSENGER SIDE ANOTHER AREA POPPED UP WITH THE SAME THING HAPPENING. ABOUT A WEEK LATER TWO DIFFERENT AREAS WERE SPOTTED ON THE ROOF ON THE CAR. THE CLEAR COAT AND PAINT HAS COMPLETELY LIFTED AND IT'S DOWN TO THE FRAME OF THE CAR. OVER THE WEEKS OF STILL HAVING TO DRIVE THE CAR AND HAVING INCLEMENT WEATHER THESE AREAS HAVE GROWN BIGGER. I'M AFRAID IF NOT FIXED SOON THE AREAS WILL BEGAN TO RUST AS WELL AS WILL THIS ALSO HAPPEN ON OTHER AREAS OF THE CAR. DEFINITELY NOT GOOD FOR A BRAND NEW CAR.

ON AUG 26, 2018 THE CAR STARTED MISSING WHILE DRIVING. IGNITION COIL WAS FOUND TO BE FAULTY AND REPLACED BY THE DEALER. THIS WAS THE SECOND INCIDENT INVOLVING AN IGNITION COIL WITH THIS VEHICLE.

THE CHECK OIL LIGHT NEVER CAME ON, IT'S A MALFUNCTION. THE WAS NO OIL IN THE CAR, I HAVE REGULAR OIL CHANGES, BUT THE ENGINE CEASED DUE TO LACK OF OIL AND NEVER ANY WARNING. NEVER "CHECK OIL LIGHT" OR "OIL LOW" NOTHING. WHEN AAA TOWED THEY TOLD ME OIL WAS LEAKING THAT WHEN WE CHECKED. THE ENGINE IS GONE AND COSTING ME $2,600 TO REPLACE ON A 2017 UGH. THE CAR STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREET AT 3AM IN THE MORNING. IT WAS DRIVING ALONG AND JUST STOPPED. THE DAY BEFORE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND WE HAD IT CHECKED OUT AND THE CODE WAS P0011 "INTAKE CAMSHAFT POSITION TIMING.

THE SEAL ON THE BACK DOORS KEPT COMING OFF AND PEOPLE ALMOST TRIPPED TRYING TO GET OUT THE DOOR. HAD TO PURCHASE SEALANT TO AND LINE IT UP ON THE DOOR. BUT IT WAS SO EMBRASSING.

VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON A HIGHWAY, POWER STEERING COMPLETELY WENT AWAY MAKING THE VEHICLE OPERATOR TAKE MORE EFFORT TO BE ABLE TO TURN, MAKING IT MORE PRONE TO COLLISIONS AT LOWER SPEEDS. CAUSE IS UNKNOWN AT THIS TIME. SAME YEAR/MAKE/MODEL CARS WERE ALSO RECALLED FOR SAME ISSUE, HYUNDAI'S RECALL NUMBER FOR THIS WAS 17V213000.

I KEEP ON HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY 2017 HYUNDAI AND DUE TO MY WARRANTY BEING OVER I DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO OTHER THAN SUBMIT A COMPLAINT, I BOUGHT VEHICLE NEW AND THIS IS MY FIRST HYUNDAI AND MY LAST. I HAVE A 4 DOOR ELANTRA AND THE ONLY DOOR THAT OPENS WITHOUT A PROBLEM IS THE DRIVER DOOR. THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR OPENS ONLY FROM THE INSIDE THE THE BACK SEAT OF DRIVER DOOR YOU HAVE TO PUSH THE DOOR FROM THE OUTSIDE THEN OPEN AND JUST TODAY THE BACKSEAT PASSENGER DOES NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. I DID GOOGLE AND NOTICED THAT THEIR HAVE BEEN OTHERS WITH SAME PROBLEMS. IS IT POSSIBLE TO ISSUE A RECALL THIE DOORS NOT OPENING IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE, ESPECIALLY IN A LIFE OR DEATH SITUATION

I BOUGHT A USED HYUNDAI ELANTRA FROM GARDEN GROVE HYUNDAI IT HAS BEEN RAINING AND AS I CROSSED THRU A FLOODED INTERSECTION SUDDENLY THERE WAS S TERRIBLE SOUND THEN MY FRONT WHEELS WERE MAKING THIS GRINDING NOISE I PULLED INTO THE GAS STATION AND UPON INSPECTING NOTICE THAT SOME PART OF THE CAR WAS DISLODGE UNDER MY CAR AND UNDER THE PASSENGER FRONT WHEEL , , I HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALER WHERE I BOUGHT IT AND WAS TOLD AN INSPECTION COVER HAD COME OFF AND IT WOULD BE A FEW DAYS BEFORE THE PART WOULD BE IN , GARDEN GROVE HYUNDAI SERVICE DEPARTMENT CALL AND SAID THE CAR WAS READY UPON WAITING IN THE SERVICE AREA THEY FINALLY BROUGHT THE CAR I RECEIVED A BILL IN THE AMOUNT OF $1380 I ASK SHOULDN'T IT BE COVER UNDER THE MANUFACTURES WARRANTY HE SAID NO THEN EXPLAINS WHAT HAPPEN HE SAID THAT I CAUSED IT , I CAUSED IT ? LET'S SEE WAS IT WHEN I PUT MY NEW BORN IN THE CAR OR WHEN I PUT GAS IN IT , HE SAID NO YOU CRASH IT ! THERE IS NOT ONE MARK IN THAT CAR ,HE THEN EXPLAINS THAT THE INSPECTION COVER INSPECTION COVER MOUNTS INSIDE THE FRONT BUMPER AND THAT IT CAME OUT WHEN YOU CRASH THE FRONT BUMPER , MY DAD CHECK AN ELANTRA THAT HAD JUST BEEN SERVICE AND THE INSPECTION COVER WAS INSTALLED UNDER THE BUMPER I HAVE A PHOTO OF THIS WE LOOK AT MINE AND IT WAS MOUNTED INSIDE THE FRONT BUMPER IT WASN'T TILL LATER MY DAD & I WERE TALKING AND EXCHANGED INFORMATION THAT WE NOW HAD A CLEAR PICTURE OF WHAT REALLY HAPPEN ,, GARDEN GROVE HYUNDAI SERVICE DEPARTMENT HAD INSTALLED THE INSPECTION COVER UNDER THE BUMPER IT MADE TRIKE A SNOW PLOW SO WHEN I DROVE THRU THE FLOODED INTERSECTION IT WORK AS A PLOW THE FORCE OF THE WATER RIP IT OFF BLAMING ME FOR THIS REPAIR , AND CHARGING $1380 AND BILLING ME FIR THE REPAIR ?

THE HEATED SEATS HAS MADE AN IMPRINTS ON THE SEATS. LOOKS LIKE A FIRE HAZARD TO ME. I DID NOT NOTICE THIS UNTIL THIS WINTER.

TAKATA RECALL. I WAS DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY AND TRIED TO SPEED UP, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR WAS NOT SPEEDING UP OR SLOWING DOWN VERY WELL. IT WAS SLIGHTLY SHAKING. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TURNED OFF AND THE CAR WAS WORKING NORMAL AGAIN, BUT THEN THE CAR SCREEN STARTED FLASHING AND ENDED UP SHUTTING OFF.

ENGINE COILS HAD TO BE REPLACED OR SWITCHED OUT TWO TIMES IN TWO WEEKS. CAR STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF DRIVING AFTER IT WAS "FIXED" THE FIRST TIME. CAUSING A DANGEROUS SITUATION

AIRBAG LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON AND OFF AT RANDOM TIMES. WHEN THE VEHICLE IS MOVING NO SPECIFIC WAY OF DRIVING JUST DRIVING

I HAVE A REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAK IN MY CAR. I BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALERSHIP TODAY, 4/4/19 AND WAS TOLD THAT IT IS AN ISSUE DO TO AN ACCIDENT. I DID NOT HAVE AN ACCIDENT THAT WOULD CAUSE THIS ISSUE. I WAS TOLD THAT NOW I HAVE TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION. THIS CAR IS A 2017 WITH 27,400 MILES. I DID NOT HAVE AN ACCIDENT THAT WOULD CAUSE THIS ISSUE.

1. LOW RPM APPROX 300, ROUGH IDLE. A/C USAGE INCRESES THE RANDOM INTERMITTENT OCCURRENCE. 40,000 MILES WHEN ISSUE WAS NOTICED. 2. RELAY SWITCH, RAPIDLY TURNS ON AND OFF. USUALLY AT STOPS AND IDLE. (SOUND LOCATION UNDER HOOD/ ENGINE COMPARTMENT.) 32,000 MILES WHEN ISSUES WAS NOTICED. 3. PASSENGER SIDE, FRONT OCCUPANT SEAT SENSOR. OVERLY SENSATIVE, WARNING FOR SEAT BELT WHEN NO PASSENGER. CELL PHONE AND OR WEIGHT LESS THAN 5 LBS. 5,000 MILES WHEN ISSUED WAS NOTICED

THE ENGINE STARTED TO MAKE A LOUD TICKING/KNOCK WHEN COLD. HYUNDAI WILL NOT DO ANYTHING SAYING IT IS "NORMAL". THIS CAR HAS A 2.0 LITER NU ENGINE ON THE ATKINSON CYCLE. THERE WERE RECALLS IN THE PAST FOR THE NU ENGINE AND IT LOOKS LIKE THERE NEEDS TO BE ANOTHER ONE.

MY CAR HAVE PROBLEM WITH ELECTRIC SYSTEM THE BRAKE LIGHT FAIL EVERY 2 WEEKS. WHEN CHANGE THE SHIFT TO DRIVE TO REVERSE LOSS THE REVERSE

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER AND FAILED TO ACCELERATE. ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE CONTACT POWERED OFF THE ENGINE WHILE IN TRAFFIC. ONCE RESTARTED, THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO DRIVE NORMALLY. IN ADDITION, WHILE AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT OR STOP SIGN, THE VEHICLE WOULD STALL AND ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, WHERE IT WAS POWERED OFF AND RESTARTED. THE VEHICLE WAS LATER TAKEN TO ATLANTIC HYUNDAI (LOCATED AT 193 SUNRISE HWY NORTH SERVICE RD, WEST ISLIP, NY 11795, (631) 587-0700), BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 3,000.

MOST OF THE HYUNDAI ELANTRA WHITE CARS PAINT IS COMING OFF. THE PAINT STARTED CHIPPING AND COMING OFF WITH MY CAR. MY CAR IS A 2017 AND I HAD IT LESS THAN 2 YRS. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY DID ADMIT THEY ARE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MOST OF THE WHITE CARS PAINT COMING OFF. THEY PAID 90% OF THE REPAIR TO MY CAR BUT I HAD TO STILL COME OUT OF POCKET OF $565 AND THEY DIDN'T PUT ME IN A RENTAL WHILE MY CAR WAS GETTINF REPAIRED. I FELT LIKE EVERYTHING WAS UNFAIR AND THIS PROBLEM WITH HYUNDAI WHITE CAR NEED TO BE ADDRESS AS A RECALL.

MY CAR WILL COMPLETELY SHUT OFF WHEN TRAVELING AT A SLOW SPEED. I COULD BE CRUISING TO A RED LIGHT AND THE CAR WILL COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. TRAFFIC ON THE INTERSTATE AND I NEED TO SLOW DOWN...YOU CAN BET MY CAR WILL SHUT OFF. GOING UP A HILL...MY CAR WILL COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. I WAS ALMOST IN AN ACCIDENT TWO DAYS AGO; AS I SLOWED DOWN TO TRAVEL UP A SMALL HILL TO THE PARKING GARAGE, MY CAR SHUTS OFF AND THE CAR BEHIND ME HAD TO SLAM ON BREAKS. EACH TIME I HAVE TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND RESTART THE CAR. THIS IS NOT A FUEL SAVING ISSUE AS HYUNDAI DOESN'T NOT OFFER THAT TECHNOLOGY/OPTION. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERN AS THE CAR STALLS WHEN TRAFFIC IS EXPECTED TO BE MOVING. I HAVE NOW TAKEN MY CAR IN TWICE FOR THIS ISSUE.

I HAVE A 2017 ELANTRA SPORT. I CHECK MY TIRE PRESSURE MONTHLY, BUT NOTICED THIS LAST TIME THAT I LOST MORE THAN THE NORMAL 1 OR 2 PSI. AFTER VISUAL INSPECTION, BOTH FRONT TIRES HAVE DEEP CRACKS AROUND THE MAJORITY OF TIRES. I DID SOME GOOGLE SEARCHING AND FOUND RECALLS FOR THE VENTUS S NOBLE 2 BACK IN 2016. I TRIED CALLING MY LOCAL DEALER, BUT THEY HAVE NOT BEEN MUCH HELP, REFERRING ME TO HANKOOK. I CALLED THE HANKOOK SERVICE LINE 800 426-5665, IT JUST RINGS AND THEN TRANSFERS TO A VOICEMAIL THAT IS FULL, AND CANNOT TAKE ANYMORE MESSAGES BECAUSE THE MAILBOX IS FULL. MY TIRE IS A HANKOOK 225/40/18. I READ ONLINE HOW THESE SPECIFIC TIRES CAN CAUSE BLOWOUT WHEN TURNING EVEN AT LOW SPEEDS. THIS IS MY DAUGHTERS CAR SHE USES FOR WORK AND COLLEGE. I WANT TO BE SURE SHE IS SAFE AS ANY PARENT WOULD WANT. ALTHOUGH, I DON'T SEEM TO BE GETTING ANYWHERE WITH EITHER HYUNDAI OR HANKOOK.

THREE DIFFERENT INDEPENDENT PROBLEMS. PASSENGER AIRBAG DASHBOARD KEEPS FLASHING. WEIRD WHEELS SOUND WHILE TURNING EITHER SIDE. PASSENGER'S SEAT BELT IS NOT FUNCTIONING.

THE CAR IS SLOW ACCELERATE LIKE SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH IT. IT STARTED THE YEAR 2018. THE CARE WAS PURCHASED 2/17/17 WITH 25 MILES ON IT. THE DEALER CLAIMS THEY CAN FIND NOTHING WRONG.

DOORS WILL NOT OPEN HAVE TO PULL THE HANDLE 5 OR 6 TIMES FOR THE DOOR TO FINALLY OPEN THE PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL FROM THE OUTSIDE YOU HAVE TO OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE TO LET YOUR PASSENGER IN THE CAR. THE BACK DOOR ON DRIVER SIDE WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE ONLY THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT DOOR AND BACK PASSENGER DOOR WILL OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE THE OTHER 2 DOORS EITHER WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL OR ONLY FROM INSIDE. IF WE WAS JUST HAVE AN ACCIDENT OR IF IT WAS TO CATCH FIRE WITH US INSIDE THEY WOULD HAVE TO BREAK THE WINDOWS OR CUT US OUT OF THE VEHICLE BECAUSE NONE OF THE DOORS WORK PROPERLY. THE DRIVER DOOR YOU HAVE TO HIT UNLOCK AND JERK THE HANDLE BOUT 5 OR 6 TIMES THEN IT WILL OPEN FINALLY. I'VE TOOK DOOR PANELS OFF EVERYTHING IS HOOKED UP AND IN WORKING ORDER SO IT'S GTA BE A MALFUNCTION WITHIN THE LOCKS OR SOMETHING I CAN'T FIGURE WHAT ELSE IT CAN BE.

I'VE HAD MY REAR RIGHT DOOR ON CHILD LOCK FOR A WHILE NOW, I USE THAT DOOR EVERY DAY, BUT THE DOOR IS NOT OPENING ALL OF A SUDDEN, I TRIED PULLING THE HANDLE FROM OUTSIDE AND GIVING A GENTLE PUSH FROM INSIDE AT THE SAME TIME AND NOTHING. I'VE TRIED LOCKING AND UNLOCKING THE DOOR NUMEROUS TIMES AND STILL NOTHING. THE WINDOW AND THE LOCK WORK, SO I'M GUESSING IT'S SOMETHING WITH THE CHILD LOCK THAT IT'S STUCK OR SOMETHING.

POWER DRIVERS SEAT MOVES UNEXPECTEDLY WHEN MAKING TURNS AT INTERSECTIONS OR SHARP CORNERING. FEELS LIKE AN ISSUE WITH POWER SEAT MECHANISM/LOOSE FASTENERS. VERY UNEASY FEELING WHEN CORNERING WHICH I FEEL COULD CATCH A DRIVER OFF GUARD AND LEAD TO A LOSS OF CONTROL.

AT SPEEDS UNDER 40-45MPH, WHEN TURNING ONLY RIGHT, OVER BUMPY AND UNEVEN ROADS (RAILROAD TRACKS, MANHOLE COVERS, HUMPS IN THE ROAD, SEAMS IN CONCRETE), THERE IS A CLUNKING/CLICKING NOISE FROM THE FRONT OF THE CAR WITH AN ACCOMPANYING FEELING IN STEERING/PEDALS. SUSPENSION DURING THESE SITUATIONS FEELS VERY LOOSE/UNSTEADY. FEELS LIKE CONTROL COULD BE LOST IF CAR IS NOT HANDLING PROPERLY.

I WAS DRIVING AND WAS T-BONED ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. THE DRIVER'S SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG DEPLOYED LATE, HITTING ME IN THE HEAD AND TRAPPING ME AGAINST THE WINDOW. I HAVE A RESULTANT SHOULDER INJURY THAT MAY NOT HAVE HAPPENED WITH APPROPRIATE DEPLOYMENT.

I LEASED MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA BRAND NEW. THE THERMOSTAT HAD TO BE REPLACED AFTER 3 DAYS AND THE CAR HAD HEAT FOR THE NEXT 3K MILES. SINCE THEN THE CAR HAS HAD POOR HEAT AND EVENTUALLY JUST STOPPED PRODUCING ANY HEAT. A HYUNDAI REP WAS ABLE TO RECREATE THE PROBLEM AND UPDATED THE COMPUTER IN MY CAR. HYUNDAI HAS SAID MY CAR HEAT HAS BEEN TESTED AND IS NOW OPERATIONAL. HOWEVER, MY CAR STILL HAS NO HEAT TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD. THE CAR TAKES A HALF HOUR OF IDLING TO WARM UP THE ENGINE HALFWAY AND EVEN THEN THE CAR DOESN'T HAVE ANY HEAT TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD. I LIVE IN NEW ENGLAND WHERE IT'S VERY COLD IN THE WINTER AND CAN'T GET ENOUGH HEAT IN MY CAR TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD TO SEE TO DRIVE MY CAR. HYUNDAI REFUSES TO DO ANYTHING MORE ABOUT THE HEATING ISSUE, EVEN THOUGH IT'S UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE THEY SAY IT IS OPERATING AS DESIGNED. I BELIEVE THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE I CAN'T SEE OUT THE WINDSHIELD.

34000 MILES, EQUIPPED WITH SMART KEY. KEY WAS FUNCTIONING, ALLOWING ENTRANCE AND UNLOCK/LOCK/ALARM FUNCTIONALITY, BUT CAR WOULD NOT START. USED ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE TO HAVE TOWED TO HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS A FAULTY STARTER. VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND HAD PREVIOUSLY SHOWN SOME HESITATION WITH EARLIER ATTEMPTS TO START.

PASSENGER WINDOW IF ROLLED DOWN IT WILL NOT GO UP RIGHT AWAY, AND PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE. HAVE TO OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE HANDLE.

DROVE CAR LESS THAN 20 MILES ROUND TRIP ON CITY STREETS, FOR A MORNING APPOINTMENT. WAS PARKED ABOUT 40 MINUTES DURING THE APPOINTMENT. RETURNED HOME AND PARKED, NO PROBLEM, NO TIRE PRESSURE PROBLEM INDICATED BY SENSORS. DEPARTED ON SECOND TRIP OF THE DAY LESS THAN 6 MILES FROM HOME FOR ANOTHER APPOINTMENT, PARKED FOR ABOUT 50 MINUTES. TIRE WAS COMPLETELY FLAT IN PARKING LOT AFTERWARDS. TOW OPERATOR PLACED MY SPARE TIRE ON, WE VISUALLY INSPECTED THE FALT TIRE AND THERE WAS NO VISIBLE DAMAGE TO TIRE OR RIM. I DROVE VEHICLE TO NEAREST HYUNDAI DEALER 3.5 MILES AWAY. DEALER SERVICE DEPARTMENT INSPECTED TIRE AND RIM WITH ME AGAIN, SAME CONCLUSION NO VISIBLE AND NO APPARENT DAMAGE. SERVICE DEPARTMENT DUNK TESTED THE TIRE, NO LEAK DETECTED. TIRE WAS RE-INFLATED AND PLACED BACK ON THE CAR. DROVE 2 MILES TO HOME AND PARKED. LESS THAN 2 HOUR LATER TIRE WAS COMPLETELY FLAT AGAIN. TIRE IS ON DRIVER (LEFT) SIDE REAR. VALVE STEM IS SNUG, NO APPARENT PROBLEM EXCEPT THAT TIRE NO LONGER REMAIN INFLATED. TIRE AND WHEEL RIM ARE DEALER/MANUFACTURER ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT. TIRE IS BRANDED AS NEXEN NPRIZ AH8, SIZE IS 205/55R16 91H

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA FROM NON-HYUNDAI DEALER. AT THE TIME OF THE SALE, A SINGLE KEY WAS PROVIDED VERSUS A KEY FOB. AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR A SHORT TIME, THE ALARM WENT OFF ON THE VEHICLE WHICH WAS UNKNOWN TO ME THAT THE VEHICLE HAD AN ALARM. IT HAPPENED AGAIN WITHIN A COUPLE OF WEEKS AND THEN I LOOKED INTO THE ISSUE ONLY TO LEARN THAT THE VEHICLE WAS SOLD NEW WITH A FOB KEY. I WENT TO A HYUNDAI DEALER AND PURCHASED A FOB AND HAD IT PROGRAMMED FOR $185.00. MONEY I SHOULD NOT HAVE HAD TO SPEND. ALSO, THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE VEHICLE THAT THE USED CAR DEALER DID NOT UPDATE TO THE VEHICLE. IS IT LEGAL TO SELL A USED CAR WITHOUT FOB KEY AND NOT INCORPORATE ALL RECALLS?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE CONTACT HAD TO SWERVE TO MISS ANOTHER VEHICLE; HOWEVER, WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE STRUCK A CURB, FLIPPED OVER, AND LANDED UPSIDE DOWN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE EXHIBITED THE SAME SYMPTOMS AS LISTED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V471000 (POWER TRAIN). ONLY THE DRIVER SIDE AIR BAG DEPLOYED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE TOW YARD. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. IT WAS UNKNOWN IF THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN AND FAILURE MILEAGE WERE UNKNOWN.

I WAS DRIVING A SAFE DISTANCE BEHIND A CAR THAT CAME TO A SUDDEN STOP IN FRONT ON ME. THE CAR THAT STOPPED IN FRONT ON HER WAS AN OLDER MODEL EXPLORER 4 DR. THERE WAS ALSO A AT THAT SUDDENLY STOPPED IN FRONT OF THE EXPLORER . AS I APPLIED MY BRAKES IT WAS AS IF THE CAR WOULDN'T STOP. I'M NOT SUE IF THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME BRAKE LIGHTS WERE WORKING BECAUSE I CAN'T SEE HOW I HIT THE CAR FROM BEHIND ! MY CAR WAS TOTALED AND MY INSURANCE COMPANY DROPPED ME FOR THE ACCIDENT ! I WAS ON A CITY STREET.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE LOST POWER WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO BE COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND WAS ABLE TO DRIVE NORMALLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO TEAM HYUNDAI OF BEND (2250 NE HWY 20, BEND, OR 97701, (833) 236-6111) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE LACK OF OIL CHANGES CAUSED THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND OPENED CASE NUMBER: 11617234. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 26,400.

COILS HAVE BEEN REPLACED TO BOTH NUMBER 2 AND NUMBER 3 CYLINDERS AND THE CAR DOES NOT HAVE 20K ON IT YET. THE SYMPTOMS WERE POOR PERFORMANCE, INCLUDING A FEELING LIKE THE VEHICLE WAS GOING TO STALL AND THE INABILITY TO GO MUCH OVER 45 MPH. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON BOTH TIMES THAT THIS HAPPENED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA EQUIPPED WITH HANKOOK TIRES, TIRE LINE: VENUS S1 NOBLE 2, TIRE SIZE: 225/40/R18 N/A WITH A SPEED RATING OF 88W, DOT #: 5MRL1AH4716. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE TURNING INTO A DRIVEWAY AT 15 MPH, THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT TIRE EXPERIENCED A BLOWOUT. IN ADDITION, THE CONTACT STATED THAT ALL THREE OF THE VEHICLE'S TIRES WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR TIRE, EXPERIENCED SEVERE CRACKING AND PEELING AROUND THE SIDEWALLS. CNS CAR COMPANY (812 WASHINGTON ST, WATERLOO, IOWA 50702 (319-291-7321)) WAS CONTACTED REGARDING THE FAILURE AND SCHEDULED THE CONTACT AN APPOINTMENT TO INSPECT AND REPLACED THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT TIRE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THERE WAS NO WARRANTY COVERAGE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE OF THE OEM EQUIPMENT WAS INITIALLY 4,500. THE FAILURE MILEAGE ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT TIRE AND VEHICLE WAS APPROXIMATELY 18,000.

THE CAR WAS PURCHASED AS A NEW CAR WITH 3 MILES ON THE ODOMETER FROM AN AUTHORIZED HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP IN JUNE 2016. IN AUGUST 2018, THE CAR WAS DRIVEN FOR A LITTLE OVER 30,000 (HIGHWAY)MILES AND WAS CHECKED FOR THE 30K-MILE-SERVICE AT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP. THE DAY AFTER, ENGINE CHECK LINE TURNED ON AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN SHAKING HEAVILY IN BOTH HIGH AND LOW SPEED. ALTHOUGH I KNEW THAT THE ISSUE WAS RELATED TO THE ENGINE MISFIRE, AND WAS ABLE TO PROVIDE A OBDII SCAN RESULTS FROM AUTOZONE, BUT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP COMPLETELY IGNORED ALL INFORMATION I PROVIDED. IN FACT, THEY BOASTED ABOUT HOW WELL THEIR "HYUNDAI SCANNERS" ARE THE ONLY SCANNERS THAT CAN CORRECTLY SCAN THE VEHICLE. CONSEQUENTLY, I HAD TO MAKE FOUR VISITS TO THE DEALERSHIP WITHIN FIVE DAYS IN ORDER FOR THEM TO ADMIT THEIR MISTAKE AND FIX THE PROBLEM. HOWEVER, NOW THE ENGINE IS STILL THROTTLING IN AN UNUSUAL MANNER AT A VERY SUBTLE LEVEL. I SPOKE TO THE HYUNDAI'S REGIONAL CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER ABOUT HOW THIS MISFIRE COULD LEAD TO DANGEROUS SITUATIONS ON A HIGHWAY WHERE A DRIVER'S AT A GREATER RISK IN HIGHER SPEED TRAFFIC. BUT THE RESPONSE WAS SIMPLY ADVISING ME TO CONTINUE VISITING THE DEALERSHIP.

BOUGHT CAR BRAND NEW, FROM DEALER. ALL 4 HANKOOK VENTUS S1 NOBLE2 TIRES EXHIBIT CRACKING AND SEPARATION ON SIDEWALL OF TIRES, INSIDE HUB AND EXTERNAL. THIS IS NOT OZONE CRACKING. DEALERSHIP DETERMINED DEFECTIVE TIRE BASED ON MAINTENANCE RECORDS, VISUAL INSPECTION AND TIRE CARE. THIS ISSUE IS IDENTICAL TO ONE DESCRIBED IN PREVIOUS HANKOOK TIRE RECALL FROM JANUARY 2016, EXCEPT FOR TIRE SIZE AND DOT. HANKOOK TIRES WANT TO ISSUE PARTIAL CREDIT. TIRES ARE UNSAFE FOR USE AS DEALERSHIP MENTIONED ONE POT HOLE AND A BLOWOUT WILL OCCUR.

I FIRST EXPERIENCED THE PROBLEM 08/14/18 DRIVING HOME FROM WORK ON I295N, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR DIDN'T WANT TO ACCELERATE. ON 08/16/18 THE SAME PROBLEM OCCURRED BUT THIS TIME IT LASTED UNTIL I MADE IT LATE THAT EVENING. I TOOK IT TO HYUNDAI OF ORANGE PARK 08/17/18 HERE IN JACKSONVILLE AND THE PROBLEM COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. AS I WAS DRIVING TO WORK 08/22/18 MY CAR STARTED DOING THE SAME THING ONLY THIS TIME YOU COULD FEEL THE VIBRATION OF THE CAR NOT WANTING TO ACCELERATE AND THE CHECK ENGINE WOULD GO OFF AS I'M CHANGING GEARS AND SOON AS I AM DONE SHIFTING IT STAYS ILLUMINATED.I CALLED THE SERVICE CENTER AGAIN AND SHE SAYS TO BRING IT BACK IN FOR TESTING AND THEY CAN ONLY FIX IT IF THEY CAN DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. I AM VERY UNCOMFORTABLE WITH DRIVING THIS VEHICLE IN TRAFFIC NOT KNOWING IF IT WILL CUTOFF AND I AM HIT.

WHILE THE CAR WAS SITTING IN THE DRIVE, THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF ALL OF THE LIGHTS EXCEPT THE HEADLIGHTS AND REVERSE LIGHTS TURNED ON. THE ONLY WAY I COULD TURN THEM OFF IS IF I TURNED THE CAR ON AND BACK OFF. IT HAS HAPPENED 3 TIMES IN THE LAST 3 DAYS. THE FIRST TWO TIMES IT HAPPENED WAS ABOUT 2 HOURS APART FROM EACH OTHER. THE SECOND TIME THE LIGHTS TURNED OFF ON THEIR OWN WITHIN 30 MINUTES. THE THIRD TIME I WAS AT WORK AND AM NOT SURE HOW LONG THE LIGHTS WERE ON BUT I WALKED OUT OF WORK TO THEM ON.

I PURCHASED A BRAND NEW 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA EX CAR OFF THE LOT THAT CAME STOCK WITH ALL NEXEN TIRES. WITHIN THE FIRST COUPLE OF MONTHS, UNDER 2000 MILES, I NOTICED THE TIRE LOOKED LIKE THE RUBBER WAS SHREDDING AND SAW SIDEWALL BUBBLING. HAD TO PAY FOR A NEW TIRE WHEN THE ORIGINAL TIRE HAD HARDLY ANY USE. A COUPLE OF MONTHS LATER, WE NOTICED A BUBBLE ON THE REAR TIRE, TOOK IT IN TO GOODYEAR, ANOTHER BARELY USED TIRE WAS DEFECTIVE. WHILE MY SON WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY, A COUPLE OF WEEKS LATER, HE GOT A FLAT AND THE WHOLE SIDEWALL WAS SEPARATED AND DAMAGED, THE 3RD DEFECTIVE TIRE. YESTERDAY, WHILE DRIVING IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD ON OUR WAY HOME, A BLOWOUT IN THE LAST OF THE NEXEN TIRES. LITERALLY A HOLE IN THE SIDEWALL. THIS WAS A NEW CAR, WITH NEW TIRES. ALL 4 MANUFACTURED TIRES ON THE CAR WERE DEFECTIVE. THANK GOD WE WERE NOT KILLED ON THE FREEWAY OR HARMED ANYONE WITH THIS HAZARDOUS BRAND OF TIRE. THIS TIRE HAS FAILED, ALL FOUR NEW TIRES FAILED. 2 IMAGES ARE ATTACHED. TWO FAILED ON THE HIGHWAY, TWO FAILED ON CITY STREETS. SHAME ON NEXEN FOR NOT RECALLING THIS TIRE YET. I'VE CALLED NEXEN WARRANTY BUT HAD TO LEAVE A MESSAGE.

I HAVE HAD A TON OF ISSUES. MY BLIND SPOT SENSORS ONLY WORK OCCASIONALLY. (I ACTUALLY KNOW SOMEONE ELSE WITH A HYUNDAI THAT IS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM). ADDITIONALLY, SENSORS GO OFF AT RANDOM. I HAVE HAD THE WARNINGS FOR FLAT TIRE POP UP MULTIPLE TIMES WHEN THERE WAS NO FLAT TIRE. ONE OF THE TONES MY STEERING WHEEL ACTUALLY LOCKED UP AND I WAS UNABLE TO DRIVE. I HAVE ALSO HAD ISSUES WITH MY RADIO SCREEN AND THE RADIO PLAYING. MY PUSH TO START BUTTON ALSO HAS ISSUES. SOMETIMES IT WILL NOT TURN THE WHOLE CAR OFF. THEY REPLACED SOMETHING IN THE BOTTOM BUT IT IS STILL HAPPENING. TODAY IT ACTUALLY HAD A HARD TIME STARTING. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING SINCE I GOT THE CAR. I'VE HAD IT LESS THAN A YEAR AND IT HAS BEEN TO THE SHOP A COUPLE DOZEN TIMES. THIS HAPPENS AT ALL TIMES BOTH WHEN I'M MOVING AND NOT MOVING DEPENDING ON THE ISSUES. IT HAS ALSO HAPPENED WHEN I WAS DRIVING SLOWER AND FASTER. MY SCREEN HAS ALSO FROZEN AND I HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO USE IT. BOTH IN MOTION AND PARKED. P

ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. WHOLE ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED. FOUND OUT ENGINES ARE DANGEROUS AND HAVE EXPLODED. ENGINES ARE ON BACK ORDER BECAUSE OF SO MANY ELANTRA NEEDING A NEW ENGINE. THIS SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED BECAUSE NO ONE IS WARNING ELANTRA OWNERS ABOUT THIS UNTIL THE CARS BREAK DOWN. I AM STILL WITHOUT MY CAR SINCE JUNE BECAUSE ENGINES ARE ON BACK ORDER UNTIL LATE AUGUST/EARLY SEPTEMBER.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING LOW SPEEDS, TURNING LEFT OR RIGHT, REVERSING, OR DRIVING OVER BUMPS IN THE ROAD, A LOUD ABNORMAL NOISE WAS HEARD COMING FROM THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT ALSO MENTIONED THAT THE WINDOWS FAILED TO GO UP OR DOWN AND WATER ENTERED INTO THE PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHT LENS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BOB MAYBERRY HYUNDAI (3220 W HWY 74, MONROE, NC 28110, (704) 283-8571), BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURES COULD NOT BE DETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE PRECEDING VEHICLE ABRUPTLY STOPPED. THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO IMMEDIATELY STOP. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT REAR ENDED THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE DRIVER'S SIDE AIR BAG DEPLOYED. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED A WHIPLASH THAT REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTIONS. THE DRIVER OF THE OTHER VEHICLE WAS TRANSPORTED TO THE HOSPITAL BY AMBULANCE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WERE TWO OTHER PASSENGERS IN THE OTHER VEHICLE, BUT HE WAS UNAWARE OF THEIR INJURIES. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A TOW YARD. THE DEALER (LEE HYUNDAI, 1960 SKIBO RD, FAYETTEVILLE, NC 28314, (910) 864-7100) WAS CONTACTED, BUT WAS WAITING FOR INVESTIGATION RESULTS FROM THE MANUFACTURER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE REVERSING THE VEHICLE, THE BACK UP CAMERA BECAME INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER (GERALD HYUNDAI, 209 HANSEN BLVD, NORTH AURORA, IL 60542), BUT THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE DUPLICATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD INTERMITTENTLY START AND THEN TURN OFF, AND THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER WINDOWS FAILED TO OPERATE CORRECTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE SAME DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THERE WERE FAILURES WITH THE ENGINE BRACKET MOUNT AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE STEERING WHEEL SEIZED. THE VEHICLE WAS RETURNED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE MDC BOLT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED; HOWEVER, THE DEALER RECOMMENDED THAT THE STEERING COLUMN BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THEY WOULD ASSIST BY DEDUCTING ONE VEHICLE PAYMENT. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 4,200.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 5 MPH, THE PRECEDING VEHICLE SLOWED DOWN ABRUPTLY AND CAUSED THE CONTACT TO SLAM ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BRAKE PEDAL TRAVELED TO THE FLOORBOARD, BUT DID NOT STOP THE VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT REAR ENDED THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES AND A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE CONTACT CALLED PAUL BLANCO'S GOOD CAR COMPANY OAKLAND AT 510-746-4900 (LOCATED AT 7201 OAKPORT ST, CA 94621) AND PROVIDED THE TECHNICIAN WITH THE INSURANCE INFORMATION AS REQUESTED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE WAS DAMAGED; HOWEVER, IT WAS STILL ABLE TO BE DRIVEN TO A BODY SHOP. THE INSURANCE COMPANY TOOK POSSESSION OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED THE CONTACT WITH A CASE NUMBER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 41,000.

"TAKATA RECAL" THE AIR BAG LIGHT KEEPS TURNING ON . FEEL LOSS OF POWER WHEN DRIVING SPEED LIMIT UNDER FOURTY-FIVE ALSO SUDDENDLEY LOOSES POWER WHEN GOING THE SPEEDOF SEVENTY-SEVENTY-FIVE SPEED IN THE HIGHWAY SPEED DROPS TO FIFTY-FIVE FEELS LIKE IT WANTS TO STOP. AFRAID OF GETTING HIT FROM BEHIND ALSO HESITATES WHEN DRIVING THE SPEED LIMIT UNDER FOURTY-FIVE FEELS LIKE IT WANTS TO STOP. ALSO THE FRONT WHEEL ALIGMENT LIGHT KEEPS TURNING ON WHEN ITHECAR IS IN MOTION AND THE AIRBAG LIGHT ALSO TURNS ON WHEN THE CAR IS IN MOTION. THESE THING HAVE BEEN HAPPENING SINCE APRIL 2018 MY CAR HAS ONLY 41,OOO MILES ON IT

THIS COMPLAINT IS INVOLVING USA AUTO CARE AND ABC HYUNDAI I WENT TO HAVE AN OIL CHANGE DONE AT USA AUTO CARE AND A WEEK LATER MY OIL PLUG FELL OUT OF MY CAR AND I LOST ALL MY OIL HAD MY CAR TOWED TO HYUNDAI HYUNDAI PUT A NEW PLUG IN THERE REFILLED WITH OIL SHOW ME EVERYTHING WAS OKAY SO I PROCEEDED TO GO TO USA AUTO CARE NUMBER FOR AND TRY AND GET THE MONEY THAT I PAID TO ABC HYUNDAI FOR THE OIL IN THE PLUGS ON MY WAY MY ENGINE LOCKED UP CAR CAME TO A STOP AND SHUT OFF I THEN HAVE THE CAR TOWED BACK TO HYUNDAI AND WAS NOTIFIED BY HYUNDAI THAT MY ENGINE WAS PRETTY MUCH DONE FOR CALL PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE MY INSURANCE AT THE TIME NOTIFIED THEM OF THE CLAIM THEY SENT SOMEONE DOWN TO TAKE PICTURES THEY GOT BACK WITH ME AFTER A FEW DAYS AND MY CASE WAS TRANSFERRED TO ABOUT THREE DIFFERENT PEOPLE BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL AGENT HAD TO LEAVE FOR MATERNITY LEAVE AND I WAS NOTIFIED BY ONE OF THE OTHER AGENTS THAT WAS ON MY CASE THAT IT WOULD NOT BE COVERED BY PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE BECAUSE IT WAS A NON COMPREHENSIVE ACCIDENT AND THAT IT WASN'T IN A PHYSICAL ACCIDENT CAUSING BODY DAMAGE I ALSO CALLED MY WARRANTY BECAUSE MY CAR IS BRAND NEW AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS BOY BECAUSE I DID NOT HAVE THE OIL CHANGE DONE AT HYUNDAI AFTER A COUPLE OF WEEKS I WAS NOTIFIED BY ABC HYUNDAI THAT MY CAR WAS FIXED THOUGHT IT WAS THROUGH THE WARRANTY AND THEY CHANGE THEIR MIND BUT MY INSURANCE WENT AHEAD AND COMPLETED THE CLAIM THEY NEVER NOTIFIED ME OF THEM TAKING THE CLAIM NO EMAILS OR CORRESPONDENCE WHAT I WAS NOTIFIED BY ABC HYUNDAI TO COME GET MY CAR I WAS TOLD THAT I HAD TO PAY A $1,000 DEDUCTIBLE AND THAT MY INSURANCE WENT AHEAD AND COMPLETED THE CLAIM I AM ON SOCIAL SECURITY I DO NOT HAVE $1,000 SITTING AROUND AND I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT PROGRESSIVE COULD NOT COVER IT NOW I'M STUCK BECAUSE I CAN'T AFFORD THE DEDUCTIBLE AND I CAN'T USE MY CAR TO DO UBER AND MAKE THE MONEY I NEED SOME GUIDANCE IN THIS

PUCHASE MY ELANTRA IN JUNE 2017, WHEN IT RAIN OR FIRST THING IN THE AM THE BRAKES WILL MAKE A SOUND LIKE I NEED NEW BREAKS AND LIKE THE ROTOR NEED REPLACED. I TOOK IT IN AND THEY SAID EVERYTHING WAS FIND. ONE YEAR LATER STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. THE SEATBELT LIGHT COMES ON AND CONTINUES TO BEEP WITH NO ONE SITTING IN THE SEAT AND THE ONLY WAY I CAN GET IT TO GO OFF IS TO SNAP THE SEATBELT. SOMETIMES I HAVE ACCESS TO MY BLUETOOTH PHONE AND SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T WORK OR THE DISPLAY IS NOT ACCESSIBLE

BLOWS COLD AIR WHEN IDLING IN COLD WEATHER(BELOW 0) TEMP GUAGE DROPS TO COLD ,WINDSHIELD STARTS FOGGING UP HAVE TO PULL OVER TURN BLOWER DOWN ONE SPEED OR IT WON'T HEAT UP AGAIN !! PRETTY DANGEROUS IN HIGHWAY TRAFFIC ! HAD IT BACK TO DEALER TWICE AND SAID IT WAS THERMOSTAT ,BUT IT DID NOT FIX PROBLEM ........HAVE TALKED TO OTHER SAME VEHICLE OWNERS AS WELL AS INTERNET SEARCH AND SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN HAPPENING TO OTHER OLDER ELANTRA VEHICLES . WHAT IS BEING DONE ABOUT THIS ONGOING PROBLEM AND DEFINITE SAFETY AND NUISANCE PROBLEM ??????

WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AT SPEEDS OF AROUND 25-30 MPH...CAR IN FRONT OF ME SLOWED DOWN SO I ATTEMPTED TO SLOW DOWN. I PRESSED ON BRAKE PEDAL BUT CAR DID NOT STOP. IF FELT LIKE IT STARTED TO START THEN SLIPPED AND GAINED SPEED RESULTING IN A FRONT END CRASH. THIS MODEL HAS A RECALL BUT WHEN I PUT IN MY VIN IT SAYS NOT AFFECTED BYTHE RECALL ON THESE BRAKES BUT I'M SEEING SIMILAR COMPLAINTS.

O WHOM IT MAY CONCERN, MY SON WAS IN AN ACCIDENT THIS PAST TUESDAY 4/3/18 WHERE HE REARED END ANOTHER VEHICLE.. THE AIR BAG LIGHT CAME ON BUT THE AIR BAGS NEVER DEPLOYED. IT WAS ENOUGH DAMAGE TO TOTAL THE CAR.. APROX 9-12 THOUSAND DOLLARS IN DAMAGE.. LUCKILY NO ONE WAS INJURED BUT I AM VERY CONCERNED ABOUT THE AIR BAGS NOT DEPLOYING. THE ADJUSTER FROM THE INSURANCE COMPANY ALSO WAS WONDERING WHY THEY DID NOT DEPLOY. I HAVE READ THERE IS SOME ISSUES WITH THE 2017 ELANTRA AND AIRBAGS NOT DEPLOYING CORRECTLY BUT NOT SURE IF APPLIES TO THIS SITUATION I WOULD LIKE SOMEONE TO REVIEW THE DAMAGE AND GIVE ME SOME KIND OF IDEA WHY THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY..

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK ONE NIGHT AND AFTER LEAVING GAS STATION PULLING OUT OF PARKING LOT I WAS STOPPING BEHIND CAR IN FRONT OF ME WHEN MY ENGINE STALLED SO I PUT CAR IN PARK AND RESTARTED IT ONLY TO MOVE ABOUT FIVE FEET WHEN ENGINE STALLED AGAIN WAS ABLE TO RESTART AND GET OUT ONTO HIGHWAY UNTIL I CAME TO A RED TRAFFIC LIGHT AS I PROCEEDED TO STOP ENGINE STALLED AGAIN AFTER RESTARTING IT NO ISSUES ALL THE WAY HOME TWO DAYS LATER I WAS HEADING OUT OF WORK TO GET LUNCH AND COMING AROUND A JUG HANDLE CAR ENGINE STALLED AGAIN RESTARTED AND MADE IT BACK TO WORK. NOW I AM WRITTING TO TRY AND SOLVE THIS DANGEROUS ISSUE AT HAND.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING AT UNKNOWN SPEEDS, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS APPLIED AND TRAVELED TO THE FLOORBOARD. THE VEHICLE HESITATED AND STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO CARDINALE WAY HYUNDAI (2525 WARDLOW RD, CORONA, CA 92882), BUT THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE DUPLICATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. ADDITIONALLY, THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO RIVERSIDE METRO AUTO GROUP (8330 INDIANA AVE, RIVERSIDE, CA 92504), BUT THEY WERE ALSO UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,000.

TAKATA RECALL- VEHICLE WAS TURNING LEFT WHEN HIT FROM DRIVER'S SIDE BY ANOTHER VEHICLE. DRIVER WAS INJURED, AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. SEE PICTURES. STATE POLICE SUSPECT THAT NONE OF THE AIRBAG SENSORS WERE TRIGGERED DURING THE COLLISION WHEN IT WAS EXPECTED THEY WOULD DO SO UNDER SUCH CIRCUMSTANCES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE TRANSMISSION SLIPPED OUT OF GEAR. TODD ARCHER HYUNDAI IN BELLEVUE, NEBRASKA WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THE TRANSMISSION WAS PERFORMING AS IT SHOULD. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 6,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING HIGHWAY SPEEDS, THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE BRAKES FAILED TO RESPOND. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE WAS INVOLVED IN A FRONT END COLLISION. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE BODY SHOP; HOWEVER, A DETERMINATION HAD NOT BEEN MADE REGARDING IF THE VEHICLE WAS STILL OPERABLE. THERE WAS ALSO A PREVIOUS BRAKE FAILURE THAT RESULTED IN A CRASH. THERE WAS ONE INJURY, BUT MEDICAL ATTENTION WAS NOT REQUIRED. THE CONTACT SUFFERED MODERATE ABRASIONS. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT PROVIDED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 10 MPH, THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO APPLY THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT REAR ENDED THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED BEFORE OR AFTER THE FAILURE. THE AIR BAGS PARTIALLY DEPLOYED. THE DRIVER SUSTAINED MINOR INJURIES, WHICH REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THERE WERE NO OPEN RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE AT THE TIME OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,000.

BELOW 50 DEGREES IT TAKES THE HEATER AN EXTREMELY LONG PERIOD FOR THE CAR TO REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMP AND THEN WHEN THE HEATER IS TURNED ON IT FALLS BACK TO ALMOST INTO THE COLD POSITION AND BEGINS TO BLOW COOL AIR. THE TEMP GAUGE WILL THEN GO UP WHILE DRIVING BUT WILL GO DOWN TOWARD THE COLD POSITION WHILE IDLING. MY OTHER CAR IS A 2011 ELANTRA AND HAVE NO ISSUES WITH IT AS IT WARMS UP IN JUST A COUPLE OF MILES AND STAYS WARM AND BLOWS HOT AIR. DEALERSHIP HAS CHECKED IT OUT AND SAYS ITS WORKING FINE BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL CASES ON THE INTERNET REPORTING THE SAME WITH OTHER OWNERS AND EVEN FOUND WHERE HYUNDIA HAS ISSUED A TSB REPLACING SOME THERMOSTATS IN THE 2017 MODELS.

CAR STALLED WHILE DRIVING DOWN ROAD. HYUNDAI REPLACING ENGINE.

INTERMITTENTLY THE ENGINE IDLES ERRATICLY AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON, LOOSES POWER.IT HAPPENS WHEN CAR IS MOVING OR STATIONARY

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE OPERATING THE VEHICLE WITH THE HEATER FAN BLOWING AT THE HIGHEST SETTING, THE AIR WOULD CHANGE FROM HOT TO COLD. WHEN THE FAILURE OCCURRED, THE WINDOWS WOULD NOT DEFROST, CAUSING A VISIBILITY HAZARD. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER (CARBONE HYUNDAI, 4975 COMMERCIAL DR, YORKVILLE, NY) AND THE THERMOSTAT WAS REPLACED. AFTER RETRIEVING THE VEHICLE FROM THE DEALER, THE FAILURE CONTINUED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED, BUT NO SOLUTION WAS OFFERED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 6,000.

WHILE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION THE SUSPENSION IS MAKING RATTLING NOISES. WHILE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION THERE IS A VERY LOUD SQUEAKING NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR DRUMS AND ALSO WHILE BRAKING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO STOP. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT CRASHED INTO THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. THE CONTACT WAS NOT INJURED, BUT SOUGHT MEDICAL ATTENTION THE FOLLOWING DAY. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO DRIVE AWAY FROM THE SCENE OF THE CRASH. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. A LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

WHILE DRIVING CAR AT 50 MPH ON A COUNTY ROAD ON 10/11/2017, CAR SHUT ITSELF OFF, I HAD TO COAST TO THE SHOULDER WITHOUT POWER STEERING OR POWER BRAKES. WARNINGS SUCH AS ANTENNAE DISCONNECT, BLIND SPOT DETECTION SYSTEM WARNING. WHEN I WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE CAR I DROVE TO O'BRIEN HYUNDAI AND THEY WERE UNABLE TO HELP ME AS THEY HAD NO AVAILABLE APPOINTMENTS. FINALLY ABLE TO GET A APPOINTMENT AT ANOTHER DEALERSHIP GETTEL 0N 10/21/2017 I HAVE BROUGHT THE CAR IN 3 TIMES FOR THE SAME ISSUE, 1ST TIME 10/21/17, FOUND PROBLEM WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, THEY DISABLED THE BSD SYSTEM AND THE WIRING HARNESS WAS ORDERED. I BROUGHT THE CAR IN ON 10/28/17 TO 10/31/17 AND THE WIRING HARNESS WAS REPLACED AND ALSO THE BSD ASSEMBLY. ON 11/3/17, ON THE WAY HOME FROM WORK, CAR STALLED AGAIN WHILE DRIVING, VEHICLE WARNING ANTENNA DISCONNECT, BSD SYSTEM WARNING. BOUGHT INTO SERVICE ON 11/4/2017, ENGINEER FROM CORPORATE FLOWN IN TO CHECK CAR BECAUSE THEY WERE UNABLE TO FIX IT, REPLACED BSD SYSTEM LH AND BSD SYSTEM RH, ALSO A LOOSE PIN AT F18R. CAR WAS IN THE DEALERSHIP UNTIL 12/5/17. ON 12/20/17 ON THE WAY TO WORK, CAR STALLED, ELECTRICAL WENT HAYWIRE, DOORS WOULD NOT UNLOCK, CAR HAD TO BE TOWED INTO DEALERSHIP, WIRING ASSEMBLY-FLOOR HAD TO BE REPLACED. CAR WAS IN SHOP UNTIL 12/29/2017. DRIVING INTO WORK 1/2/2018, WARNING ANTENNA DISCONNECT, I HAD TO TURN OFF BSD SYSTEM AS EACH PREVIOUS TIME THE ANTENNA WARNING WAS THE FIRST WARNING PRIOR TO BDS WARNING & CAR STALLING WHILE DRIVING. HAVE APPOINTMENT ON 1/8/208 AT DEALERSHIP.

THE 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA ALL-WEATHER FLOOR MATS HAVE DEEP RUBBER GROOVES THAT RUN PERPENDICULAR TO THE DRIVER'S LEGS CAUSING THEIR SHOE TO BE MOMENTARILY TRAPPED IN THESE DEEP RUBBER GROOVES. THE EXTRA MOTION NECESSARY TO RELEASE YOUR SHOES FROM THESE GROOVES CAN PROMOTE A SAFETY HAZARD IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION. ARE THESE FLOOR MATS BEING RECALLED?

LEASED A BRAND NEW HYUNDAI ELANTRA 2017 WITH A KNOWN BRAKE SAFETY ISSUE WITHOUT THE ISSUE BEING REPAIRED PRIOR TO OR BEING NOTIFIED IMMEDIATELY OF THE ISSUE AT THE TIME OF THE SALE. THE PURCHASE WAS MADE 4 MONTHS AFTER THE RECALL STARTED FROM THE BAY RIDGE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP IN BROOKLYN, NY. NHTSA RECALL #17V063000

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA SE DOES NOT HAVE A SERVICE LIGHT. DROVE ABOUT 8K MILES AND NO SERVICE LIGHT CAME ON SO I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO SERVICE AND ASKED WHY THE LIGHT DID NOT COME UP? UPON COMPLETION THEY CONFIRMED THIS CAR IS BASIC AND DOES NOT COME WITH A SERVICE LIGHT. THIS IS RIDICULOUS. THEY GIVE AN MSRP OF OVER 21K AND FAIL TO PUT A VERY IMPORTANT FEATURE. THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE

DRIVING AROUND 35 MILES AN HOUR AND COME TO A SMALL CURVE TURNED THE WHEEL LITTLE BIT BUT CAR WENT STRAIGHT AND GUARD RAIL HIT PASSAGER SIDE FRONT OF CAR AND DRIVER AIRBAG CAME OUT BUT DIDN'T BLOW ALL THE WAY UP AND HAD A HOLE IN IT WITH STITCHING AROUND IT SO DRIVER AIRBAG IS NO COUNT JUST FALLS IN YOUR LAP AND ELECTRIC STEERING IS UNPREDICTABLE

AS OF LAST WEEK, MY TRANNY SEEMED LIKE IT WAS SLIPPING. SOMETIMES IT DID , OTHER TIMES IT JERKE.. ANYWAY, IT SNOWED HERE IN UPSTATE NY. I AMAL OVER THE ROAD. MY TIRES SEEM OK. BRAKES ARE GRINDING. CARS ONLY A YEAR OLD SOON. I HAVE 3 CHILDREN IN THE CAR. I AM ALWAYS IN MOTION. GETTING SCARED TO DRIVE. IT FEELS LIKE THE TIRES THOUGH TOO.. WHAT KIND OF TIRES DOES THIS CAR HAVE.. DOES IT HAVE ALLSEASONS? DOESNT FEEL LIKE IT. ANYWAY THIS SHOULD NOT BE HAPPENING.. HELP.