2016 Subaru Outback SUV AWD

The battery dies and needs a jump start very often. Got the battery tested and there is no issue with the battery. My observation is when the vehicle is parked and the parking brake is ON then the battery discharges.

My car spontaneously burst into flames after I parked it. I had left the car parked and locked in a parking lot next to a rental house and went in to prepare dinner. 20 minutes later my friends arrived at the scene and alerted us to the fact that my car was engulfed in flames. It seems that the fire originated in the engine somehow, but exactly what started it is unclear. There was no accident or collision, and no foul play. Security cameras in the area couldn't see much, but indicate that the vehicle burst into flames pretty much just after I had left it parked and locked.

Issue with the vehicle's exhaust being loud - upon dealership's multi-point inspection, cracked bellows was identified. Issue that was identified and fixed is described in NHTSA ID Number: 10199936, Exhaust Pipe Front (EPF) Bellows Cracking, however the VIN of my vehicle was not included (although it is the same make and model year). Request that this issue be investigated to determine if additional VINs should be included.

We have replaced about 5 windshields in this vehicle since we have owned it. The cracks form from the bottom of the windshield in the black area where a rock couldn't possibly chip the windshield. Subaru refuses to recognize this vin number as part of their class action law suit that was just settled and has refused to extend the warranty on this particular vehicle although they are covering replacement windshields for other 2016 Subaru Outbacks. They clearly recognize that there is a problem but are refusing to admit fault. You do not need to look far to find numerous complaints in forums on the internet with people describing this exact problem.

I OWN A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40:MPH ON A LOCAL MAIN ROAD (CT RTE 10) THE EYESIGHT PRE-COLLISION BRAKE ASSIST SUDDENLY ACTIVATED AND CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO COMPLETELY STOP. THE BRAKES THEN RELEASED AND I WAS ABLE TO CONTINUE DRIVING. THIS IS THE SECOND INCIDENT WITH IN A MONTH THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 104,000 THERE WERE NO PRIOR WARNING LIGHTS OR ENGINE LIGHTS ON. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN INSPECTED BY THE DEALER. THIS SUDDEN STOPPING CAN CAUSE AN ACCIDENT.

I Had to jump start battery on several occasions, leaving myself and my family stranded. I took the car to my dealer on 12/3/2018. Dealer (Glanzmann Subaru) could not identify problem, performed two software updates. I received no information or explanation of the nature of the problem. A month later the problem repeated. I took the car to dealer on 1/16/2019 (mileage 25,941).They tried to tell me that the battery was leaking, but it was not. They replaced the battery and I had to pay the cost for a new battery, $123.97. On 1/27/2021 (mileage 39,172) the new battery failed in a similar manner. The dealership insisted that there were no problems with the charging system. They replaced the battery ( no cost) and performed an ECM update. They were insistent that there were no systemic issues with the electrical system. After the fact, I discovered that this is a universal problem with a number of Subaru vehicles. During a recent visit to my Subaru dealership I inquired as to whether a solution has been determined and will my car be fixed before the new battery also fails. They were very vague and non-informing. I am hesitant to venture far from home with this vehicle since I cannot trust the car or Subaru's support. I can provide dealer service records in support of this issue.

Multiple instances of the battery dying after being parked for a few days. New battery did not resolve the problem and diagnostics indicate that the battery is not the problem. Unable to use vehicle when it cannot be started. Most recent incident was 1/18/2022. First occurred shortly after I purchased the vehicle.

In January 2020 my Outback failed to start. Battery was totally discharged and had to be jumpstarted. Took the car to dealer where technician tested battery and said it was good.I had him recharge the battery and test it again. It failed and they installed a new exact same battery under warranty. I was very pleased. However, the battery failed several more times over the year and had to be jumpstarted every time.I am returning to the service dept on 01/18/22, when I am demanding a new stronger battery or fix the parasitic draw which I discovered is causing the problem. I will return here later to inform you of outcome. Thank you for providing a place to report this.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that on multiple occasions, her vehicle would fail to start up without warning. The contact had taken her vehicle to the dealer numerous times and had several battery replacements performed; despite each replacement, the failure persisted. The manufacturer had yet to be notified of the failure. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 12,000.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while approaching the vehicle in the morning, she noticed a L-shaped crack in the windshield which originated on the passenger’s side of the windshield. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer and was informed that an issue with the windshield wiper had caused the fracture. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 46,000.

I'm having continuing issues with premature discharging of the battery even though I now have a heavy duty battery and also carry an emergency jump start battery in case. My Outback is equipped with Onstar so it does draw power at all times, my relatively new Optima battery has shown being drawn down to 25% charge on the Optima battery charger after only 24 hours. Of non use.

oil leak from power train

Battery dies when parked for a few days or not driven enough. Needs to be jumped several times per week.

Battery rapidly drains leaving me stranded. 4th battery that has been replaced by dealer and the same thing happens. No warning lights or low battery lights. Dies from 1 week to over nite. Remote won't even open the car. Dealer refuses to fix the battery drain and keeps saying it isthe battery that is bad but replaces with the same battery which fails ! I see where there are lawsuits against Subaru but I am not getting any help at all from corporate or dealer. Personal safety and being stranded and unreliable are my main concerns.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that while stationary or while in motion, the tailgate would independently open without warning. The contact stated that due to the failure, the battery was drained. The vehicle was towed to a dealer. The dealer was unable to duplicate or diagnose the cause of the failure. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and a case was filed; the contact was referred to NHTSA for further assistance. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was unknown.

In my 2016 Outback, the OEM battery died after 3 years. AAA put in a replacement and gave me a 3 year full replacement warranty. That battery died after 2 years while in a gas station – had to get pushed away from the pump and luckily the guy behind me had jumper cables. That go me home and I got a brand spanking new AAA battery free of charge. One incident – stuff happens. Two? No way. I was at Subaru this morning for an unrelated item and the service guy said that everything electrically was okay. The problem is that if the car sits idle for more than 3 days the computer starts draining the battery and that can cause irreparable harm which can eventually lead to premature failure. SOLUTION: Make sure to run the car at least every three days. REALLY????

This is the 6th time this week the car starts fine in the morning, I stop at a gas station or store come out and its dead! Concerning safety this is a major deal for me as I take care of my mother whom is on oxygen at 2L if this happens with her in the car or by herself,, it could very easily turn into a life or death situation! This issue seems to be a recurring issue as I have replaced the battery already and used AAA more than a few times in the past year. Car was purchased new off the lot in 2016. There is currently less than 35000 miles on the odometer. This is beyond upsetting and a very dangerous situation living in Colorado. Hypothetically if it was below zero peoples lives are 100% at risk due to a issue that I feel is being covered up by subaru. What options do I have? Is this a potentially very serious issue that I should start thinking about getting lawyers involved?

Windshield got a very large crack from me trying to kill a bug inside the car. Windshield is thin. I didn’t hit it that hard with my hand. Had to be replaced. The repair service tech explained that the only replacements for my model are of the same thinness as the original, and to seek the recall glass replacement should it be thicker and safer.

Key sticks in ignition and won’t release. Takes from a few attempts to several minutes of restarting the car, putting car in drive and then park, turning the wheel etc.

Battery is dead every morning

New battery, less than 10K miles completely drained when vehicle was not used for 3 days. Similar problem with previous battery, died with 10minutes or radio use.

Battery corrosion on terminal post and drained for no reason, failed battery test and had to be replaced. Windshield has imperfections throughout and cracks easily. Shift mechanism will not release the vehicle key while in park. Squeaking sound emanating from passenger seat belt buckle. Excessive exhaust noise and odor from exhaust pipe. Rear hatch will not close completely unless slammed very forcefully. Belts under the hood squeak very loudly when started and subside when warmed up.

Our vehicle has factory-installed child safety locks incorporated into the rear passenger doors. The safety lock on the rear passenger-side has failed in the "engaged" position, and cannot be disengaged using the small black switch in the door. Consequently, the only way the door can be opened is by using the outside handle. We see this as a serious safety issue, since in an emergency egress situation, the only way a passenger in the right rear seat can exit the vehicle is if someone opens the door from the outside. Looking on online forums, there are many incidents of this same problem. However, Subaru has not chosen to correct this problem for cars that are outside of vehicle warranty.

The battery in my car has been replaced 3 times (twice by the dealer and once by me) and the alternator once due to deep discharge, in addition I have had to "jump" the car one or more times. Subaru has paid the cost of all repairs for this issue despite the fact they don't admit there is an issue. In addition to the battery replacement there was an ECM update done this last time to reduce battery drain. There is no warning or indication that a failure is about to occur. This last time I moved the car from my garage to my driveway and 4 hours later, the car would not start and the battery measured 4.25 volts--no lights were left on, doors open, seat heaters on etc. The concern is that it is impossible to tell if the car has drained the battery and it can leave us stranded anywhere we have turned it off. I contacted Subaru of America this last time and they said not even to "jump" it as it would possible loose valuable error codes. I have their roadside assistance and even though I received a call confirming that a flatbed would arrive within 60 mins. it never showed. This car has the potential to leave us stranded anywhere at any time and if locked the key fob does not work and even if I can get in, the car can't be moved due to no power to release the parking break.

Battery dies after car is parked for more than 3 days. Car is available for inspection. I have been stranded/inconvenienced at least 5 times. Problem was solved through AAA, family jumpstart help, etc. Verbally reported to dealer, service writer comment made it sound like it must have been my fault or just the needs of the computer components. No warnings or symptoms.

Windshield cracks easily. On my 5th windshield, just replaced 2 weeks ago and it’s cracked again. The windshield cracks easily even with minor rock chips. This is the 5th windshield on this car.

I have just had to put my fifth battery in my 2016 Subaru outback. I have experienced a dead battery twice. The first time this happened I was at a remote campsite and had the stock battery in the car. That battery lasted 25k miles. I brought my car to the dealer and they did a software update. Since then I have had two new batteries.

For months, there have been incidents of battery drain where the vehicle is unable to be started without a jump charge. I have replaced the battery several times; electrical testing by the dealership does not diagnose any problem.

Windshield cracked without any cause

i am about to replace battery in my 2016 subaru outback for the fourth time. obviously an ongoing problem with this vehicle . my wife had to wait 4 hours for subaru roadside assistance to respond with tow. All replacement batteries done by dealerships. No warning signs. .

We have experienced slight acceleration issues when at standstill. For example parking in our garage, nosing to the front and the car will lurch forward. We always been able to control it but we do have to watch out. Decided to report after reading issues by other owners.

The windshield cracked without receiving any kind of impact to it. No rock chip, sudden jolt, extreme temperatures or other weather event precipitated the cracking.

I drove my car several miles to a ferry without any problems. I turned off the ignition and the car sat on the ferry for less than five minutes. When I tried to start the car, the battery was completely dead. The ferry driver had to return to the island side with just my car, which they pushed off the ferry. My husband came and jump started the battery. The car was driving very jerkily after that for about ten minutes. We immediately took the car to an independent service center technician, who tested the battery and said the battery was fine. We stopped to fill it up, thinking maybe there was air in the fuel tank or something. When we restarted it, the problem was gone. I researched online and discovered that electrical/battery problems are common with Subaru Outbacks. This was/is a safety problem because apparently I could be stranded anywhere. This car has died in the driveway many times in the five years we have owned it. This was the first time it died on a trip. There was no warning message or symptom of any kind - car was driving fine, then completely dead after five minutes of being off.

2016 3.6 Subaru Outback has required battery replacement 4 times. If the battery dies while operating the car a dangerous shutdown of various electrical systems. This has happened twice, one instance no power steering, the next time the braking systems engaged. In both instances I was fortunately at a stop. If this happens while the car is moving especially at a high rate of speed, the results would be catastrophic.

Two different batteries have been completely drained in the last two weeks. The first time I thought it was that the the current 27 month old battery had failed. There were no warning lights or symptoms of electrical issues either time. We just came out to a completely drained battery. After installing a new battery two weeks ago, the battery was drained down to 1.2 amps yesterday morning after 16 hours of non use. A mechanic diagnosed it as a parasitic draw and we were able to recharge the battery overnight. Now the brand new battery has been weakened by the complete draining. We also no longer have confidence in leaving the car idle for any length of time. Isn't there a software update to fix this issue?

The contact's wife owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that since owning the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start up after multiple attempts without warning. Since owning the vehicle, the battery was replaced four times. The contact initially had the vehicle jump-started and taken to the dealer. The battery was replaced once by the dealer and replaced out of pocket three times. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 20,000.

Shift mechanism is not releasing the vehicle key while in Park

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while driving 65 MPH, the vehicle inadvertently started shuddering and jerking. The contact also stated that the vehicle was making abnormal sounds. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact stated that she was able to continue to drive the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the transmission had failed. Then, the vehicle was taken to the dealer who tests drove the vehicle and diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that they would replace the transmission, but she would be responsible for the cost of the labor. The vehicle was repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 107,000.

Car has 66,000 miles on it. vin#[XXX]--- HORN DOES NOT WORK IN ANY POSITION. Is available for inspection at any time. Nearest dealer is State Line Subaru - Somerset, MA Have contacted dealer and have received no response. Almost caused an accident by failure of the horn. No warning lights or messages. No indication of problems prior to failure. PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

Incident occurred on Interstate 25 Northbound at approximately mm 190. My speed was approximately 70 mph. Weather was dry and about 70 degrees. I was in the next to left lane in 4 lanes of traffic. The moonroof on my 2016 Subaru Outback exploded violently sending glass outward into traffic. I had never heard of this phenomena so when I saw black material from the top of my car going into traffic I thought it was pieces of my roof rack. I pulled over to the shoulder to examine my car and saw a massive hole in the moonroof. Knowing that if I continued shards of glass would continue to be expelled onto the interstate I pulled the remaining pieces of glass into the interior of the car. Not that it mattered, that's where they fell anyway when I opened the moonroof. The pieces of the moonroof fell into the slots for the seatbelts, rendering the drivers side inoperable. It was a miracle that no other car was seriously impacted and that I was able to get home safely. Subaru and any other car manufacturer that is involved with this problem needs to be held accountable for the damages and remedial repairs. This problem should be addressed by the NHTSA immediately.

Unable to turn key to off position when in neutral and unable to remove key from the ignition. In order to get the key out of the ignition, the car needs to be restarted and turned back off or the gear shift needs to be pushed as hard as possible into the neutral position multiple times. With the inability to turn the car totally off and remove the key, there are multiple safety issues that can arise. Was informed that the entire select lever assembly needs to be replaced due to a known issue by Subaru. The issue was reproduced by an independent service center. No warning lamps are illuminated.

model Year 2016 Outback vehicle purchased new in Dec.2015. The OEM 2015 battery was replaced gratis by dealer ( Flemington Subaru) in Feb 2020 at 26,016 mileage. The Feb. 2020 replacement battery was changed Jan.27,2021 by Flemington Subaru due to ‘dead check’ found during a recall service for telematics updating. The Jan.27, 2021 replacement has failed on multiple occasions since installed ~7 months ago. The dealer performed a Battery/Electrical System analysis on 4August,2021which alleged the battery to be “GOOD” with measured 12.63 volts and CCA 571 vs. its CCA 550 rating. Despite adequate miles driven and only several days since the 4 August test the battery is again dead on Aug.8,2021. I possess all pertinent service record invoices relating to battery changes and testing.

Ignition does not release key in a reasonable manner. Must wiggle key, start/stop car multiple times, and wait for 15-20 minutes before the key releases from the ignition. Started as an occasional issue, but has become more and more constant.

Parking shifter sensor is failing intermittently. This prevents removing the key from the ignition. Seems to react better when you throw the shifter into park forcefully.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback The contact stated that after placing the vehicle into PARK, the key could not be removed from the ignition switch. After turning off and restarting the vehicle several times, the key was removed from the ignition switch. The vehicle was diagnosed but was not yet repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 72,104.

Battery drains - just goes dead. In the past six months it has happened @4 times. Checked twice at my garage and no problem found. Electrical system and battery checked out. After it is jumped it runs rough and not drivable until computer resets and windows have to be reset by hand. No warning lights of low battery.

Multiple jump starts due to battery dying, even after replacement battery. Car is not reliable, not able to start after not driving it for 2 days.

We purchased this vehicle as a private sale in Nov 2018. In May 2020, the battery failed and was replaced, thinking it had reached end of life.. One month later, in June 2020, this new battery was dead, and was replaced under warranty under the premise that it was a bad battery. In addition, at the time of this 2nd battery replacement, the vehicle was inspected by our dealership to assess why the battery died, and though no direct cause was found, the battery cables were replaced. This July 11th, 2021, the battery was dead once again, and replaced under warranty, again thinking it was a defective battery. Yesterday, July 25th, two weeks after this 3rd new battery replacement, the battery was dead again. No user error was ever noted (no internal light left on, vehicle had been driven regularly every day of the week, etc.). Upon research online, there appears to be a class action lawsuit against Subaru regarding electrical problems that rapidly drain batteries in several Subaru models 2016-2020, which includes our 2016 Outback. We can never know when our battery could fail, and clearly cannot trust this vehicle to start on any given day, which is a serious safety concern. We have been unsuccessful in our attempts to communicate with Subaru customer support. Please investigate this complaint as appropriate. Thank you.

My Outback lost AC/Heat and even after repair at an Outback dealership, it still goes out intermittently. My car battery seems to drain for no reason at all, without any consistency to the drainage of power either. I have it looked at, and the dealership said there isn’t a cause and there isn’t anything that can be done. Back rear door doesn’t lock and unlock with the key fob designation; sets off the alarm when we don’t pay attention to it. Hatch door only lifts about 14 inches upon designation. Has to be manually lifted the rest of the way. Has been fixed once at a dealership, but since returned to the aforementioned diagnosis.

Battery has failed repeatedly, at least 4 or 5 times over the last year. Took to dealer who checked it out and said they found no issues. Please note no lights or doors were left open that would have resulted in a batter drain. Concerned as I have been stranded due to this issue.

The adjustment of the passenger side side view mirror has malfunctioned. The mirror can not be adjusted properly for visibility of cars to the side of the vehicle. Only the driver-side window is operable. All other windows fail to open from the driver side control. The passenger window will no longer operate from the passenger side either. These windows would have to be broken in order to escape the vehicle in some situations (flooding). My mechanic says that this is a common problem in 2016 Subaru Outbacks. No warning lights were activated. A mirror not able to be adjusted for optimum sighting of other vehicles is surely a safety issue.

The car does not recognize that it is in park, and the key gets stuck in the ignition frequently. The only fix is to repeatedly shift in and out of the park position until the key releases (which can take anywhere from 1 minute to 10 minutes -- it seems to get worse over time). It's a safety concern for various reasons: you can't exit your car quickly in case of emergency -- you can't just leave your vehicle with the keys in the ignition (dangerous/negligent/someone could steal your car). It's also concerning that the car doesn't recognize what gear it is in. This is a widespread issue across Subaru vehicles that is documented in many online forums. The issue was confirmed by the dealership that I went to on my vehicle specifically, but they also knew the source of the problem, before they even looked at the vehicle.

The car drains the battery to the point of not being able to turn the engine on after >10 minutes of playing the radio while the engine isn't turned on. Happened three separate times where I had to request a jump. I replaced the battery with a new one but the problem persists.

The original battery drained when a door is left open for an extended period of time. We replaced the battery in 2019 and also bought a battery booster because of this issue. We thought replacing the battery would fix the, however, the draining issue still occurs from time to time. We didn't think to file a complaint, but saw an article in the news describing the same issue we're experiencing and that a class action lawsuit has been filed against Subaru for this issue, so we decided to file a complaint.

Have had to replace battery twice. A short time leaving a light on drains the battery very quickly.

Several times the battery has been completely drained from something little like the back end opened or door open for a longer period

Battery drains when car is off and parked with no lights on, causing multiple jump starts to the car, and a need to buy a new battery.

original battery dead in less than 2 years, needing replacement in January 2018. Subaru dealer advised replacement, local repair store confirmed it was dead. Purchased replacement local as dealer quote was over $300. The battery was dead, and replaced again in 12/2019, and again in 10/2020. These issues have left us stranded, often in cold/freezing weather. No sign of wearing or issues occurs until the vehicle just does not start. All of our other vehicles have never gone through batteries this frequently. Additionally, with the many batteries (4 total so far, in 6 years, and 80k miles) from multiple sources, I do not believe that defective batteries are the case

Passenger side front seatbelt locked up and became non-functional, unable to be used. This left our passenger without a safe or legal way to ride in the vehicle with all other seats being used. The part was replaced by the dealer under warranty

A small rock chip at bottom of the windshield, near the heated wiper park area, caused multiple cracks across the entire windshield. Replacement was required as visibility was impaired

The battery keeps draining and needing to be replaced. I need a new battery every 18 months or so. Also, please note that there is not one incident. There is a pattern of the battery needing to be replaced.

On my third ( 3 ) battery since 2016.

after having the 2916 Subaru outback detailed, the car wouldn't start, apparently if a door is left open for 10 minutes or more the battery drains, Jump started the vehicle and it starts right up

My battery dies intermittently and will not start until I receive a jump start. it seems to occur after day trips in the mountains,, but no emergency lights come on to indicate a low battery while driving. we have had to get an emergency jump start an now must carry around a spare battery charger to jump start my car. I've had the dealership look at this and they find no issues. I've had both my battery and alternator tested and they are still good. I stopped using my phone charger, thinking that may be the issue, but it still happens. I worry I'll be stranded somewhere and the Jumpstart battery won't be able to give me a kick. This has occurred at least 10 times and is increasing in frequency.

The electrical system drains the battery. It happened first in Feb 2020. Car was locked and could not be opened with manual key, so AAA Roadside Service had to use a bladder and bar to break in and open car, damaging the driver door. There is now constant road noise where it used to be a particularly quiet interior. The battery was completely drained and tested low so they replaced it. One year later, Feb 2021, the same thing happened despite the car being driven every day and the alternator working fine. Four months later it happened again, this time when the car was in long term parking at SFO Intl Airport June 29-July 5. Again they had to pry open the driver door to unlock, battery tested at 40%, alternator tested fine, and AAA replaced the battery still under warranty. We can no longer trust or rely on this car to start and I no longer lock the car in case the problem recurs - I have zero reason to expect it will miraculously stop happening. My wife wants to sell the car.

For the past 6 months out key has become very hard to remove. The ignition system will not disengage and release the key. Multiple methods have been tried and sometimes are effective. Placing the car into park, then neutral, back to park and so on eventually releases the key. The service center said to play with the breaks and shifters to fix the issues. I’ve been reading of multiple problems that keep occurring with these cars.

Unable to remove key from ignition when car is parked. I am unable to leave car without threat of it being stolen. An internet search indicates this is a common problem and repair cost can be several hundred dollars

Battery has died several times over the past few months. The last time (7/3/21) within 48 hours of being fully charged. Subaru replaced the battery several months ago, so it’s a fresh battery. They did not mention the electrical system problems they know about and have known about since 2017.

Over the last 7-8 months. Has gotten progressively worse. With car parked and turned off cannot get key out of ignition. Have to sometimes restart car and move it forward and backward and that doesn’t always release key after turning off. Or move shift lever from park to drive many times and that doesn’t always work. Or turn ignition key back and forth and pushing in on it . Does it on both level parking and inclined parking Has taken as long as 15 minutes to be able to get key out and leave my car. Called three dealerships . One said yes he’s heard of it happening , other to 2 other Subaru dealerships said they have to diagnose the problem . I found 3 technical service bulletins on Nhtsa web site referring to identical problem . It was called “shift lever complete “ for 2016 Subaru Outback and Legacy.Service bulletin# 16-112-18R

The ignition sensor is faulty and doesn't consistently recognize when the car is in park, and as a result, will not release the key from the ignition. After some research, many other Subaru owners have experienced this same issue.

On 8/30/2018, the car wouldn’t start after it was driven to a parking lot. The battery was jumped, car taken home, and then the battery was charged at local car parts store. On 6/7/2021, the car wouldn’t start after two days of no use. The battery was jumped and driven for 30 min. On 6/12/2021, the battery was replaced, and driven intermittently 6/12 and 6/13. On 6/16/2021, the car wouldn’t start with no panel or indicator lights working at all.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that the battery had failed on several occasions after starting the vehicle. The contact stated that the battery warning light intermittently flashed during the failure. The contact had taken the vehicle to three separate independent mechanics and had the battery replaced however, the failure persisted after each battery replacement. The contact then took the vehicle to a dealer where the technician discovered that the radio was causing an electrical drain on the battery which could render the battery defective. The battery was replaced for a fourth time and the radio was disconnected however, two weeks after the repair, the battery failed again and the vehicle was returned to the dealer where it remained in their possession. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 68,000.

For the past four years the car has insufficiently charged the battery. On two occasions the car would not start and had to be jumped. At first I attributed it to something I may have done like leaving an interior light on, but after the second incident I found out that other owners of the same car were having similar problems. I called the dealer and they said it might help to install a higher CCA rated battery.I replaced the original battery in 2018 with a higher rated Interstate CCA battery. That battery was also over time not being charged sufficiently and I took it back to the Firestone dealer who installed another Interstate Brand battery replacing it in 2020 under warranty. I called the dealership again and they said there was no reported issues with Subaru Outbacks insufficiently charging and that I just had to drive the car more frequently. So far the car has failed to start on 5 occasions, stranding either myself or my wife, twice in unsafe situations. I now routinely have to charge the battery in my garage about once a month to keep it operational, even after driving the car frequently. On 5/3/2021 I took the car back to the dealer for some service work. I asked again if there was any fix for the charging issue. They tested the battery and recorded that it "came up as deeply discharged". They said there was "No abnormal draw found ---vehicle charging normally."

The issue I am reporting is an issue with the electrical system that is causing battery to drain to dear overnight. This past Sunday I experienced a completely dead battery without any warning lamps or messages and no prior symptoms to indicate battery was not charging. After replacing the battery the next day, the car started with no problem. However, the next morning that brand new battery was dead. After jump-starting and allowing to run for a period of time to recharge the battery, I turn the car off and restarted several times. Once again, the next morning the battery was completely dead. Upon replacement of the newest battery, I checked the vehicle to ensure that nothing was left on that would cause the battery to drain overnight. There appears to be some type of "parasitic drain" within the electrical system that is causing this rapid battery drain. Luckily, this did not take place while my family and I were traveling which would have potentially placed us in a position which would have put our safety at risk. After researching information regarding this on the internet, it appears to be a known problem with my year and model vehicle.

Lately when i put the car in park I can not remove the key. I need to either play around with the shift lever or usually start the car, back up, and forward and try again until I get the key out. Not a good solution. I have been reading about the problem of the defective shift selector and the associated service bulletin # 16-112-18R. I would like to get this fixed rather than using the on-line suggestions of jumpering the switch which seems like a possible safety problem. Because this is happening due to a defective shift selector I think Subaru should be picking up the cost to make this right. The car has only 45,000 miles on it. I have contacted Subaru but ahve not heard back from them yet. The dealer cost to repair this is approximately $600

Key does not come out of ignition after turning car off. Gets stuck frequently (almost everytime I drive the car).

continual drain causing battery to go dead we are on battery number 4 since buying the vehicle new in August 2016 Have taken it to 2 different dealers and are told there is nothing wrong. Have been stranded multiple times both day and night causing unsafe environment while trying to wait for a jump start

My battery dies often and doesn’t seem to hold a charge as long as a typica new car I’ve had to jump it 6 times in the last 8 months- Regarding the side marker lane assist- it has been diagnosed as a loose sensor and had been re adjusted by dealership multiple times but end up failing again a couple weeks later.

During winter vacation in Upper Michigan my 2015 Subaru Outback did not start, (I'm from Illinois appox 45 miles west of Chicago) nothing electrical in it worked at all. Battery was totally drained. There were no problems prior to this happening. Went to try to start vehicle the next morning and to no avail. We did happen to find someone who was able to jump start our vehicle. Had to buy a new battery.

My 2016 Subaru OUTBACK has experienced 6 separate incidents where my vehicle battery was inexplicably drained, and hence the entire electrical system was shut down. I was unable to start it without an external boost in each occasion. Fortunately these incidents posed no safety threat to me or others as the car was parked at my home, or in a parking lot. Unfortunately, the problem has not been reproduced or confirmed by my Subaru Dealer, Gillman, in Schertz, TX although extensive diagnostics were performed on 2 occasions by Gillman. My OUTBACK has not been inspected by manufacturer, police, or insurance representatives. There were no warning lamps illuminated because of a total electrical failure, and no other symptoms of the problem prior to the 6 failures. The dates for the 5 incidents of total electrical failure are the following: (1) 6/18/2018 at 1240 Kahili Street, Kailua, HI. AAA replaced my original Subaru battery (I do not have original AAA receipt, but other documentation) (2) 10/13/2018 at 1240 Kahili Street, Kailua, HI. AAA replaced my battery. (3) 9/16/2019 at 306 FM 621, San Marcos, TX. AAA replaced my battery. (4) 7/27/2020 at 648 Sydney Circle, New Braunfels, TX. AAA replaced my battery. (5) 9/5/2020 at 648 Sydney Circle, New Braunfels, TX. AAA replaced by battery. (6) 10/7/2020 at 648 Sydney Circle, New Braunfels, TX. Gillman Subaru removed an aftermarket device for corrosion protection installed by SERVCO Subaru, Honolulu.

Battery failure numerous times, battery replaced 1/02/19. Battery drain several times during 2017 through 2021 .

Windshield spontaneously developed a crack; there had been no impact to the vehicle or windshield.

On two occasions, car would not start. Road service was able to start it by jumping. Third occasion of no start a jump start did not work. The battery was about three years old. I was unaware of the five year warrantee so I brought the battery to a auto parts store to have it check. Was told it won't accept a charge but the charging system was good. I purchased a new battery but about a year later the same dead battery issue happened. Checking to make sure that I did not leave a door open or any electrical component on, I jumped started the car. BUT each time I start the car, I hold my breath hoping it will start. I even purchased a portable charging kit just in case I am unable to get road service.

Battery drains for any small electrical left on appears to be electrical defective

My car's battery dies frequently for no apparent reason. No faults have been reported by the dealer or repair shops during service calls. I had to purchase a jump starter in order to be able to start and operate my car.

IN JUNE 2020 I COMPLAINED THAT MY BATTERY DRAINED TO THE POINT WHERE CAR WOULD NOT START A FEW TIMES CAUSING ME TO CHARGE THE BATTERY. I TOOK CAR TO MY SUBARU DEALER AND THEY TOLD ME THE BATTERY WAS OK AND ALTERNATOR WAS CHARGING. I INSISTED THE BATTERY BE REPLACED AND IT WAS. THROUGHOUT THE REST OF 2020 AND INTO 2021 I STILL EXPERIENCE BATTERY DRAINING. I TRY TO DRIVE THE CAR EVERY WEEK SO THE BATTERY WILL NOT GO DEAD. THE BATTERY DOES SEEM LOW AS THE STARTER MOTOR SOUNDS LIKE IT TURNS SLOWER THAN USUAL. DUE TO COVID-19, I HAVE NOT BROUGHT THE CAR BACK TO SUBARU YET TO HAVE THE CAR EVALUATED. I AM RAISING THE COMPLAINT HERE BECAUSE I AM SEEING ONLINE THAT OTHERS ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.

FREQUENT AND UNEXPLAINED BATTERY DRAIN. THE CAR HAS 47,520 MILES AND WE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY AND HAVE HAD 2 INCIDENTS WHERE THE BATTERY HAS COMPLETELY DIED LEAVING US STRANDED ON THE HIGHWAY.

FREQUENT BATTERY REPLACEMENT IN 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK PURCHASED 9/29/2016. DEALER REPLACED THE BATTERY UNDER WARRANTY ON 12/11/2017, DEALER REPLACED AGAIN ON 3/22/2019 WITH SUBARU BATTERIES BOTH TIMES. I REPLACED IT AGAIN ON 1/01/2021 WITH A WALMART BATTERY. MADE THIS COMPLAINT ON 5/15/2021. 3 BATTERIES IN 4 YEARS AND 8 MONTHS SEEMS TO INDICATE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM

COMPLETE DRAINING OF BATTERY JUST SITTING THERE FOR NO REASON... WE SEE THIS IS AN ENORMOUS PROBLEM WITH OUTBACKS, AND WE HAVE ONE WITH GREAT PROBLEMS LEAVING US STRANDED !

THE BATTERY BARLEY STARTS THE CAR. WE HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY TWO TIMES. WE HAVE TO CARRY A BATTERY STARTER PACK WITH USE, BECAUSE IT WILL NOT START SOME TIMES.SO WE HAVE TO JUMP IT. WE DO NOT TRUST THE CAR TO START. THE BATTERY HAS GOOD CLEAN CONNECTIONS, IT JUST SEEMS TO LOOSE IT CHARGE WHEN IT SITTING.

I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE MY BATTERY TWICE ALREADY IN 4 YEARS

BATTERY WENT BAD AFTER BEING REPLACED JUST 3 MONTHS PRIOR. THEY DIDN’T WANT TO ADMIT IT.

THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED IN 2017 (I PAID) FOR THIS 2016 OUTBACK. IN NOVEMBER 2020, DURING OIL CHANGE, SUBARU DEALER STATED BATTERY NEED TO BE REPLACED, I PAID AND REPLACED BATTERY. LAST WEEK, MAY 2021, DURING OIL CHANGE, SUBARU DEALER STATED THAT BATTERY "FAILED" AND THEY REPLACED THE BATTERY FOR NO CHARGE. IT APPEARS THE BATTERY IS DRAINING RAPIDLY 24/7 BECAUSE OF A LIKELY SOFT WARE PROBLEM.

THE BATTERY RANDOMLY DRAINS DOWN TO THE POINT WHERE IT WON'T START, IF IT HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN IN A FEW DAYS. WE REPLACED THE FACTORY BATTERY WITH A LARGER AFTERMARKET BATTERY WHEN THE CAR WAS LESS THAN A YEAR OLD, BECAUSE IT KEPT GOING DEAD. THE FACTORY SERVICE DEALER TOLD US THAT THEY HAD NEVER HEARD OF THIS, SO WE ENDED UP REPLACING THE BATTERY ON OUR OWN. THE NEW BATTERY HELPED, BUT IT'S NOT A END ALL IF THE CAR HASN'T BEEN STARTED FOR A FEW DAYS. SOMETIMES IT NEEDS TO BE JUMPED IN ORDER TO START IT. THIS HAPPENS CONSTANTLY AND WE KNOW THAT IT'S AN ISSUE WITH THE OUTBACK'S.

BATTERY DRAINS MUCH MORE QUICKLY THAN NORMAL. I HAVE REPLACED IT 3 TIMES IN 5 YEARS.

BATTERY IS DRAINED WHILE PARKED.

I HAVE A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. I BOUGHT IT 2019. I HAD THE CAR 2 WEEKS 7/2019 AND I DROVE IT 25 MINUTES TO TRAIN STATION. TURNED IT OFF AND TRIED TO START IT AND IT WAS DEAD. TOOK IT IN AND DEALER REPLACED BATTERY. ON SATURDAY 4/3/21 WENT TO START MY CAR IN MY DRIVEWAY AND IT WAS DEAD. TOOK IT TO DEALER AND THEY SAID I DONT DRIVE IT ENOUGH.

I LEFT MY HOME TO GO GET GAS A FEW MINUTES AWAY. AFTER I FILLED UP AT THE PUMP, MY CAR WOULD NOT START. I TRIED SEVERAL TIMES, AND ASKED A GAS STATION ATTENDANT FOR HELP. HE SAID IT SOUNDED LIKE THE BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR. I WAS ABLE TO GET THE CAR INTO NEUTRAL, AND HE PUSHED MY CAR BACK INTO A PARKING SPOT SO I COULD CALL SOMEONE FOR A JUMP. HOWEVER, WITHIN THE FEW MINUTES OF TRYING TO START MY CAR AND BEING PUSHED, THE BATTERY DRAINED SO QUICKLY THAT THE CAR WAS COMPLETELY DEAD AND INOPERABLE. I COULD NOT GET THE CAR BACK INTO PARK, AND THE ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE DIDN'T WORK EITHER BECAUSE THERE WAS ABSOLUTELY NO ELECTRICITY LEFT IN THE CAR. THIS COULD NOT HAVE BEEN HAVE BEEN ANY LONGER THAN A 5 MINUTE TIMESPAN. THE PARKING SPOT I WAS IN HAD A SLIGHT SLOPE TO IT, SO SINCE I COULDN'T PUT THE CAR IN PARK OR USE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE, I HAD TO KEEP MY FOOT PRESSED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL SOMEONE ARRIVED TO HELP ME. I COULD NOT GET OUT OF THE CAR TO EVEN CHECK UNDER THE HOOD. LUCKILY I HAD A PASSENGER THAT COULD GET OUT AND ASSIST, ESPECIALLY SINCE I COULDN'T OPEN ANY WINDOWS EITHER. WHEN HELP ARRIVED, THEY WERE ABLE TO JUMP THE CAR SO I COULD DRIVE BACK HOME. HAD I BEEN ALONE THOUGH, I WOULD HAVE BEEN COMPLETELY OUT OF LUCK - I WOULD HAVE BEEN STUCK IN THE CAR PRESSING THE BRAKE, OR RISK GETTING OUT AND HAVING THE CAR ROLL AWAY. IT WAS AN INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS SITUATION - I CANNOT BELIEVE THE POWER COULD DRAIN SO QUICKLY TO THE POINT THAT I COULDN'T EVEN PARK THE CAR. I PURCHASED A NEW BATTERY AFTERWARDS, BUT I'M NOT EVEN SURE THAT WAS THE PROBLEM. I'VE NEVER SEEN A BATTERY DRAIN SO QUICKLY - IT ALMOST SEEMS LIKE MORE OF AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE WITH THE CAR.

REPEATED FAILURE TO START STEMMING FROM A DEAD BATTERY, DESPITE DAILY OR MORE OFTEN TRIPS. WHEN PARKED TEMPORARILY TO PICK UP MY CHILDREN FROM SCHOOL, THE CAR FAILED TO START. RECEIVED A 'JUMP' TO RESTART. WILL MAKE AN APPOINTMENT WITH THE DEALER TO REPLACE THE BATTERY (OR WHATEVER SERVICE THEY OFFER) FOR THE THIRD BATTERY IN LESS THAN 3 YEARS. BATTERY IS DISCHARGING BEFORE MY EYES; VOLT METER ON THE BATTERY SHOWS A DECREASE OF 0.01VOLTS/PER 10 SECONDS.

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN PULL OUT THE KEY AFTER PARK THE CAR.

FOR THE PAST 2 YEARS, I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY 4 TIMES BECAUSE IT KEPT DYING ON ME. I ALWAYS THOUGHT I HAD FAULTY BATTERIES UNTIL I READ AN ARTICLE ON THE PROBLEM WITH THE OUTBACK.

FREQUENT BATTERY DRAINING AND SOMETIMES NOT RECHARGING WHEN DRIVING. WHILE TURNED OFF IN THE GARAGE BATTERY WILL DRAIN IN AS LITTLE AS 9 DAYS. HAVE TO KEEP IT ON A TRICKLE CHARGE WHEN NOT IN USE IN ORDER TO BE ABLE TO START IT. NO MODERN CAR SHOULD LEAVE YOU STRANDED. THIS HAS BEEN ONGOING SINCE THE PURCHASE IN 2016.

MOONROOF WILL NOT CLOSE ONCE OPENED. DEALER QUOTED $1400 REPAIR COST. DEALER SUGGESTED DISABLING THE MOON ROOF AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO REPAIR. WAS TOLD THIS HAPPENS TO MOONROOFS OVER TIME. I HAVE OWNED CARS WITH MOON ROOFS FOR OVER 40 YEARS AND THIS IS THE FIRST TIME EXPERIENCING THIS PROBLEM WITH ANY CAR. IS THIS A SUBARU DEFECT?

THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED IN AUGUST OF 2020 WITHOUT ANY IMPACT OR OUTSIDE CAUSE ACROSS THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD ALMOST THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE GLASS. I HAD IT REPLACED AT THE DEALERSHIP AND IN APRIL OF 2021 THE NEW WINDSHIELD NOW HAS CRACKED DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE GLASS. BOTH TIMES THE CRACKS APPEARED OVERNIGHT WITH THE VEHICLE IN A PARKED POSITION.

MY BATTERY DRAINS QUICKLY WHEN I HAVE THE CAR OFF AND THE HATCH OPEN FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME. THIS HAS BEEN AN ONGOING ISSUE SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR IN 2016.

FILED A FORMAL COMPLAINT WITH SUBARU AMERICA AFTER MY AUTOMOBILE'S BATTERY DIED FOR THE 4TH TIME.I HAVE APPROX. 21,000 ON THE CAR WHICH WAS BOUGHT NEW IN 2016. THE BATTERY DIES WHEN THE CAR SITS OVERNIGHT (IT IS GARAGED EVERY NIGHT). I KNOW THERE ARE CLASS ACTION LAWSUITS CLAIMING THAT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM OVERWHELMS THE BATTERY THUS CAUSING IT TO GO DEAD. I BOUGHT THE CAR KNOWING THAT MY PREVIOUS SUBARU'S HAVE BEEN VERY RELIABLE. THIS IS NOT THE CASE WITH THE 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT BATTERY WAS REPLACED THREE TIMES IN THE VEHICLE HOWEVER, THE BATTERY FAILURE PERSISTED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A BATTERY CHARGER WAS CARRIED IN THE VEHICLE BECAUSE OF THE RECURRING FAILURE. COLONIAL SUBARU (89 NEWTOWN RD, DANBURY, CT 06810) WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND DIAGNOSED THE VEHICLE WITH AN ELECTRICAL SHORT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT SHE WAS MADE AWARE THAT THERE WERE TWO CLASS ACTION LAWSUITS FOR THE BATTERY FAILURE FROM A NEWS ARTICLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 70,238. THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE STATED THE BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED 4 TIMES. *JS

BATTERY WILL NOT KEEP CHARGE WHILE PARKED. FULLY DEPLETES WITHOUT WARNING. WILL NOT START. WILL NOT UNLOCK WITH FOB. DEALER REPLACED BATTERY, BUT PROBLEM CAME BACK SEVERAL MONTHS LATER. MULTIPLE CHARGINGS WERE TEMPORARY ONLY

WITHIN ONE WEEK OF PURCHASE THE BATTERY WAS DRAINED BY THE SIMPLE ACT OF LOADING THE CAR FOR A TRIP OVER THE COURSE OF ONE DAY. TWICE DURING THE FIRST YEAR WE FOUND THE BATTERY INEXPLICABLY DEAD. WE REPLACED THE OEM WITH A NEW BATTERY 13 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASE. THIS NEW, MORE POWERFUL BATTERY ALSO IS ALSO FOUND INEXPLICABLY DRAINED ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS AFTER ROUTINE SHORT TRIPS. FOR FOUR YEARS WE'VE BEEN FORCED TO MONITOR AND TRICKLE CHARGE THE BATTERY TO KEEP THE CAR USABLE. THIS IS COMPLETELY UNREASONABLE FOR A NEW CAR.

BATTERY NEEDED CHARGE REPEATEDLY THEN DIED ABOUT YEAR 3. WE REPLACED WITH LARGER800 AMP BATTERY. BUT AT 2 YEAR IT STARTS FAILING THE SAME. BATTERY TESTS OK AND ALTERNATOR TESTS OK AND NO LIGHTS OR DOORS LEFT OPEN. BUT WHENEVER CAR IS NOT DRIVEN AT LEAST AN HOUR WITHOUT STOPPING IT LOSES ABOUT .1 VOLT PER DAY -WHEN DRIVEN JUST SHORTER DISTANCES. TESTING DAILY WITH MULTIMETER ETER CONFIRMS THIS RATE. CAR REQUIRES CONSTANT BATTERY MINDER ATTACHED AT NIGHT. TOOK IT TO ADVANCE AUTO TODAY AND THEY CONFIRM WITH TEST NO BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR PROBLEM EXISTS!

BATTERY DRAINS EXCESSIVELY FAST. IF NOT DRIVEN FREQUENTLY FOR LONGER DISTANCES BATTERY DIES.

2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. A FOUR-INCH WAVY CRACK ON THE LEFT BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD; A WEEK LATER ANOTHER CRACK OF ABOUT 6 INCHES APPEARED. THE CRACKS OCCURRED WITH THE SUBARU CAR IN MOTION ON A HIGHWAY.

THE BATTERY DRAINED AFTER A SHORT DRIVE WHEN ONLY 2 YEARS OLD. THE SAME THING HAPPENED TO THE NEXT BATTERY AFTER ONLY 1 YEAR. EACH TIME THE CAR HAD TO BE JUMPED AND THE BATTERY TESTED BAD. IT HAS NOW HAPPENED A 2RD TIME WITH A BATTERY KESS THAN 1 YEAR OLD.

VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY. CAR WILL NOT START UNLESS CHARGED. BOUGHT NEW BATTERY IN FEBRUARY 2020. WORKED FOR A TIME, BUT CAR WILL NOT START AGAIN. KEEP GETTING BATTERY CHARGED TO RUN. HAVE HAD BATTERY CHECKED. IT IS GOOD AS IS ALTERNATOR. MUST CHARGE BATTERY EACH TIME I WANT TO DRIVE CAR. THE PROBLEM STARTED IN SEPTEMBER 2020.

I PURCHASED MY 2016 OUTBACK SEPT 2019 FROM A DEALERSHIP WITH 38,000 MILES. THEY HAD REPLACED MY BATTERY ABOUT 4 MONTHS BEFORE I GOT IT. IT HAS A 30 MONTH FULL WARRANTY. THE BATTERY WENT COMPLETELY DEAD ABOUT 10 DAYS AGO.. I CALLED A TOW TRUCK TO JUMP ME. THE DRIVER INFORMED THAT THEY GET PLENTY OF CALLS FOR THE NEWER SUBARUS . I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP WHO CHARGED ME FOR THE BATTERY AND SAID THEY DON'T HONOR THE WARRANTY ON A CAR THAT WAS SOLD AFTER THE BATTERY WAS INSTALLED. THEY ALSO DIDN'T MENTION THAT SUBARUS WERE HAVING ELECTRIC ISSUES. MY SON LOOKED IT UP AND INFORMED ME THAT SUBARUS THAT WERE DRIVEN SHORT DISTANCES, WHICH MINE IS, TEND TO HAVE THIS PROBLEM

THE CAR BATTERY HAS DIED MULTIPLE TIMES IN THE PAST THREE YEARS. THE BATTERY WAS FACTORY REPLACED IN 2019 BECAUSE OF THIS ISSUE AND HAS SINCE NEEDED TO BE JUMPED AT LEAST 3 TIMES. THERE IS ALSO CORROSION ON THE NEW BATTERY ALREADY. WHEN THE BATTERY HAS DIED IT'S EITHER BEEN PARKED IN OUR DRIVEWAY OR HAS LEFT ME STRANDED SOMEWHERE NEEDING A JUMP WHEN IT WOULDN'T START.

BATTERY IS SUFFERING EXCESSIVE DRAIN. LAST REPLACED BATTERY FAILED WITHIN 2 YEARS.

IN EARLY JANUARY, OF 2018, THE VEHICLE WOULDN'T START BECAUSE THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. WE HAD TO HAVE IT JUMP-STARTED. THIS CONTINUED AT LEAST A DOZEN TIMES. ON 5/25/18 WE CONTACTED THE DEALERSHIP, AND SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT ON 5/29/18 TO HAVE IT ASSESSED. THEY FOUND: ' BATTERY NOT FULLY CHARGED. FOUND SOFTWARE UPDATE FOR BATTERY CHARGING. PERFORMED SOFTWARE UPDATE.' THE PROBLEM CONTINUED...WE MADE ANOTHER APPOINTMENT ON 7/11/18, AND THEY GAVE US A RENTAL VEHICLE WHILE THEY HAD OURS, FOR 8 DAYS. THIS TIME: 'AFTER FINDING A PARASITIC DRAW, AND REPLACING A MODULE, THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED'. WE WERE TOLD THIS WAS BECOMING A COMMON OCCURRENCE WITH SUBARU BATTERIES, BUT THAT SUBARU WASN'T WILLING TO REPLACE THE BATTERY AT THEIR COST. WE CONTINUED TO BE INCONVENIENCED, (STRANDED), UNTIL THE DEALERSHIP RELENTED, AND INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY.

WITH APPROXIMATELY 50,000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE, I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY TWO TIMES. THIS VEHICLE HAS A PROBLEM WITH ITS DESIGN THAT ALLOWS THE BATTERY TO DRAIN TO A COMPLETELY DEAD AND IRREVERSIBLE STATE EVEN WHEN THE VEHICLE IS DRIVEN AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS FOR A MEANINGFUL PERIOD OF TIME EACH DAY. THE FIRST OCCURRENCE WAS IN MAY, 2018 AND THE SECOND OCCURRENCE WAS APRIL, 2021.

THE CAR WILL BE DRIVEN NORMALLY AND THEN WHEN YOU GO TO START IT THE BATTERY IS DEAD. THIS HAS OCCURRED AFTER MULTIPLE YEARS AND MULTIPLE TIMES THE BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE DEALER HAS REFUSED TO LOOK FOR A PROBLEM SINCE THEY SAY IT IS MY FAULT. I HAVE OPENED A CASE WITH SUBARU IN THE PAST BUT NOW THEY HAVE NOT RESPONDED TO THE LATEST EMAIL CONTACT. DATE BELOW IS DATE I LAST CONTACTED SUBARU.

I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY 4 TIMES SINCE BUYING THE CAR IN 2016. I CAN'T LET IT SIT MORE THAN 3 DAYS IF ITS COLD OUT OR THE BATTERY DIES. I HAVE TO JUMP THE BATTERIES QUITE FREQUENTLY. I CAN'T LET THE CAR SIT MORE THAN 7 DAYS IF IT IS WARM OUTSIDE. I HAVE CALLED THE DEALERSHIP TWICE AND THEY HAVE TOLD ME THIS IS NORMAL. I ASKED WHAT COULD BE CONSTANTLY DRAINING THE BATTERIES. I HAD THOUGHT THE CAR WAS A LEMMON WHEN I FIRST BOUGHT IT. THE BATTERY PROBLEM HAS BEEN ONGOING SINCE I BOUGHT IT. IT WAS A BRAND NEW CAR.

THE BATTERY HAS A SLOW DRAIN ON IT. I END UP HAVING A DEAD BATTERY ABOUT EVERY 4-6 WEEKS AND NEED TO JUMP THE CAR. I'VE REPLACED THE BATTERY, AND STILL HAPPENS.

MY CAR HAS ELECTRICAL ISSUES WHICH CAUSE THE BATTERY TO DRAIN. IF I DON'T DRIVE MY CAR FOR A FEW DAYS, SOMETIMES IT WON'T START WITHOUT GETTING JUMPED OR CHARGING THE BATTERY DIRECTLY. ONCE THE VEHICLE IS MOVING, EVERYTHING APPEARS TO BE WORKING FINE. IT'S JUST WHEN STARTING THE CAR. MY ISSUES SEEM TO BE RELATED TO THE ISSUES THAT ARE DOCUMENTED IN A CURRENT LAWSUIT AGAINST SUBARU FOR DRAINED BATTERY.

BATTERY WOULD NOT RECHARGE DURING SHORT, FREQUENT TRIPS. BATTERY WOULD NOT RESTART THE CAR. REPLACED.

MY BATTERY KEEPS GOING OUT. I REPLACED A NEW BATTERY AND IT STILL DIES. I TOOK THE NEW BATTERY BACK TO THE RETAILER WHO TESTED THE NEW BATTERY AND SAID IT WAS STILL GOOD. HOWEVER, MY BATTERY STILL GOES OUT 3-4 TIMES A WEEK AND NOW I HAVE TO BUY A PORTABLE BATTERY BOOSTER TO START UP THE CAR ON A ROUTINE BASIS.

THIS VEHICLE IS 5 YEARS OLD. THE FIRST BATTERY LASTED 4 YEARS. THE SECOND BATTERY WAS DEAD IN 10 MONTHS. NOW WE WILL TRY A THIRD. IN LOOKING UP OTHER DRIVERS COMMENTS, THIS IS A KNOWN PRODUCT PROBLEM. THERE IS A TECHNICAL BULLETIN OUT ABOUT THIS, BUT IT DOESN'T DO ANYTHING TO FIX THE PROBLEM. THERE IS ALSO A KNOW TIRE WEARING PROBLEM. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THOSE, 3 TIMES. I HAVE 92000 MILES. I HAVE REPLACED THEM WITH MICHELIN TWICE. GOOD FOR 60,000. LUCKY TO GET 30,000 ON THEM. TWICE NOW BECAUSE OF THE BATTERY, I HAVE BEEN STRANDED. THIS LAST TIME, I WAS AT MY VACATION HOME, ONLY ONE OTHER PERSON IN THE AREA. LUCKILY THEY HAD JUMPER CABLES, AND JUMPED THE CAR AND FOLLOWED ME TO THE AUTO STORE. THE FIRST TIME I MISSED WORK, AND HAD TO WAIT TILL MY HUSBAND CAME HOME TO GIVE MY CAR A JUMP. BOTH TIMES, THE CAR WAS SITTING OVERNIGHT.

ALMOST NEW BATTERY FAILED. HAD REPLACED PREVIOUS BATTERY ON SEPT 15, 2020 WITH INTERSTATE BATTERY, AND ON APR. 13, 2021 IN THE MORNING THE BATTERY WAS FOUND DISCHARGED DESPITE NOTHING BEING ON IN CAR OVERNIGHT. THE RED TERMINAL IS CORRODED.

KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION CYLINDER INTERMITTENTLY. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE FOR SUBARU UNDER THEIR OWN TSB 16-112-18R.

BATTERY DRAIN TO ZERO, I CAN'T START THE ENGINE, BATTERY WAS REPLACED 2 YEARS AGO UNDER WARRANTY, AND NOW AGAIN I DO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN I TRY TO CHARGE THE BATTERY IT SHOWS 100% CHARGED, BUT FOR SOME REASON, I CAN'T START THE ENGINE, SEEMS LIKE DOES NOT HAVE ENOUGH BATTER TO START IT.

WINDSHIELD BEGAN CRACKING NEAR THE BOTTOM (CLOSE TO THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS) BUT THERE WAS NO ROCK OR DAMAGE TO THE WINDSHIELD THAT PROMPTED THE CRACK. IT JUST APPEARED AND THEN HAS SPREAD ABOUT 2 FEET.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HIS WIFE HAD ATTEMPTED TO PARK THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY ACCELERATED WHILE AT A COMPLETE STOP. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE JUMPED A CURB AND HIT A TREE; HOWEVER, HIS WIFE WAS UNSURE IF ANY WARNING LIGHTS HAD ILLUMINATED DURING THE FAILURE. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY UPON IMPACT AND THE CONTACT'S WIFE WAS NOT INJURED. THE POLICE WERE CALLED TO THE SCENE; HOWEVER, THE CONTACT WAS UNAWARE IF A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. DUE TO THE FAILURE, THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED FOR THE DAMAGE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT PRIOR TO THE FAILURE, THE VEHICLE WAS PLACED UNDER RECALL NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V794000 (POWER TRAIN) WHERE IT WAS SERVICED BY NORTH END SUBARU(757 CHASE RD, LUNENBURG, MA 01462). THE DEALER NOR THE MANUFACTURER HAD YET TO BE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 44,343.

DEAD BATTERY WITHIN FIRST YEAR OF OWNERSHIP, AT 75,000 MILES NOW AND THIRD BATTERY HAS NOW FAILED. UNSAFE.

I HAVE HAD >10 EVENTS OF DEAD BATTERY NEEDING CHARGED OR JUMPED. I ALMOST MISSED MY DAUGHTER'S WEDDING DUE TO THIS INCONVENIENCE. I HAD MY BATTERY TESTED AND FOUND IN GOOD OPERATION. I FINALLY REPLACED MY BATTERY AND IN LESS THAN A MONTH I HAD ANOTHER INCONVENIENCE 10 MINUTES BEFORE I NEEDED TO LEAVE FOR A DOCTOR'S APPOINTMENT. THE BATTERY WAS UNABLE TO BE JUMPED AND I HAD TO SCRAMBLE TO FIND A RIDE.

THE CAR WAS PARKED IN THE GARAGE AND IT WAS ABOVE FREEZING. NONE OF THE LIGHTS HAD BEEN LEFT ON/DOORS OPEN... THE CAR DOESN'T HAVE A FOB KEPT TOO CLOSE... THE CAR WOULDN'T START. THIS ISN'T THE FIRST TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED AND WE'RE NOT SURE IF IT'S A BATTERY, ALTERNATOR, ELECTRICAL ISSUE OR WHAT. WE'VE HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED ONCE ALREADY. IT FIRST HAPPENED WITHIN A WEEK OF PURCHASING THE CAR IN 2017 IN THE SUMMER TIME, AND HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES SINCE WITHOUT EXCESSIVE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS IN USE.

I PURCHASED MY OUTBACK AS A NEW CAR. I ORDERED IT. I PICKED IT UP IN AUGUST OF 2015. SINCE THEN I HAVE HAD APPROXIMATELY 6-7 BATTERIES. MY MOST CURRENT REPLACEMENT WAS TODAY. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THROUGH MANY BATTERY REPLACEMENTS, IT IS THE CLIMATE WHERE I LIVE, A FAULTY BATTERY, AND POSSIBLY OTHER THINGS. TODAY I MENTIONED TO THE SUBARU SERVICE THAT THIS NEVER HAPPENED WITH MY OTHER CARS (I'VE HAD THREE OTHERS.) THE FIRST REPLACEMENT WAS WITHIN THE FIRST YEAR OF PURCHASE, BUT I'D HAVE TO GO BACK AND VERIFY. I'D HAD TO CALL AAA WHILE IN BLYTHE JUST TO GET TO AN AUTO ZONE FOR A BATTERY BECAUSE THERE ARE NO SUBARU DEALERS IN THE AREA. I HAVE HAD TO GET 1-2 AT A LOCAL GOOD YEAR BECAUSE MY LOCAL SUBARU IS ABOUT A 25-30 MINUTE DRIVE AND DIDN'T HAVE TIME TO GET THERE...AND NEEDED A BATTERY. TODAY I ASKED HOW MANY I HAVE GOTTEN WHILE AT SUBARU. WE COUNTED ABOUT FOUR. A FEW DAYS AGO I TRIED STARTING MY CAR AND IT DIDN'T WANT TO START IMMEDIATELY. (I THINK THE LAST TIME I WAS AT SUBARU THEY SAID IT WAS FINE.) THIS BATTERY LASTED THE LONGEST, ABOUT A YEAR. I'VE HAD SOME LAST LESS THAN THAT. I EVEN BOUGHT A FARADAY POUCH TO SEE IF THAT WOULD HELP. I'M WRITING THIS LATE AT NIGHT WHILE ALL IS IN MY MIND. SO I DON'T HAVE TODAY'S PAPERWORK ON ME, AND I DIDN'T HAPPEN TO GET THE DATES THE MAN AT SUBARU GAVE ME OF WHEN THEY PUT IN A BATTERY. I KNOW THE DESERT HEAT CAN BE HARSH, BUT 6-7 BATTERIES IS UNREASONABLE AND NOT SAFE.

BATTERY DRAINS AFTER THE CAR SITS FOR A FEW DAYS. I HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED LAST YEAR, AND HAD THE NEW BATTERY CHECKED RECENTLY AT THE DEALER. THEY (DEALER) SAID IT WAS FINE AND SAW NO PARASITIC DRAIN. THEY TOLD ME I SHOULD DRIVE THE CAR EVERY DAY TO KEEP THE BATTERY CHARGED, WHICH I FIND TO BE VERY ODD AND EXTREMELY INCONVENIENT. I ALSO OWN A 2020 SUBARU ASCENT AND DON'T HAVE TO DRIVE IT EVERY DAY TO KEEP THE BATTERY HEALTHY. THE CAR SAT FOR ONE WEEK RECENTLY AND THE BATTERY DRAINED AGAIN. I JUMPED IT YESTERDAY IT AND DROVE IT FOR 30 MINUTES AND TODAY THE BATTERY IS DEAD AGAIN.

I PURCHASED OUR OUTBACK NEW FROM A DEALERSHIP IN PENNSYLVANIA IN MARCH, 2016. SINCE THAT TIME WE HAVE HAD THE OME AND TWO REPLACEMENT BATTERIES FAIL AND WE ARE NOW ON OUR 4TH BATTERY. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND THE SERVICE MANAGER SAID HE WAS UNAWARE OF ANY REASON THE BATTERIES MAY HAVE FAILED. WE HAD OUR VERY EXPERIENCED SUBARU MECHANIC CHECK IT OUT AND HE COULD NOT FIND A CAUSE. THE CAR IS MOSTLY DRIVEN ON THE HIGHWAY AND HAS 133,000 MILES ON IT.

BATTERY DYING AFTER SHORT DRIVE

BATTERY DRAINS QUICKLY. CHANGING BATTERY DOESN'T HELP.

I HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY 3 TIMES SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR IN 2016 DUE TO IT DRAINING SO LOW IT COULDN'T BE CHARGED. PURCHASED A BATTERY VIA AAA

BATTERY OFTEN GOES DEAD. HAVE REPLACED BATTERY 3 OR 4 TIMES SINCE WE PURCHASED IN NOVEMBER 2015. BATTERY DIED IN GARAGE AND IN PARKING LOT.

BATTERY DRAINS UNEXPECTADLY AND SWIFTLY. TURNED OFF MOTOR AND LEFT KEY IN IGNITION WHILE WE SAT OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE. WE WERE STRANDED IN THE DESERT ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION.

BATTERY DOES NOT HOLD A CHARGE. DRAINS IN A DAY JUST SITTING IN MY GARAGE. CAN'T GO ANYWHERE FOR FEAR IT WILL NOT START. PROBLEM SEEMS ELECTRICAL MORE THAN THE BATTERY. THE BATTERY TESTED GOOD AT THE DEALER.

CAR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GET STALLED WITHOUT ANY REASON AFTER PARKING CAR FOR SOME MINUTES. NOTHING WORKS. I NEEDED TO CALL AAA OR FRIEND FOR HELP (BATTERY JUMP). IT HAS OCCURRED SEVERAL TIMES. SOMETIMES, WITHOUT ANY EXPLANATION, POWER TO WINDOWS HAS FAILED. HOWEVER, COMES BACK AT RANDOM TIMES. I HAVE CHANGED BATTERY SEVERAL TIMES BUT IT DOES NOT SOLVE PROBLEMS.

BATTERY CONTINUES TO GET DRAINED OF POWER FOR NO APPARENT REASON. I HAVE HAD TO GET A JUMP START SEVERAL TIMES EVEN AFTER DRIVING FOR 3 OR MORE HOURS. WHEN I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP, I WAS TOLD THAT THE BATTERY WAS FINE, BUT NEEDED TO BE CHARGED. THEY EXPLAINED THAT THE REASON FOR THE DEAD BATTERY WAS BECAUSE THE CAR WAS NOT STARTED FOR 2 OR MORE DAYS. LESS THAN A WEEK AFTER THIS VISIT TO THE DEALERSHIP, THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN AFTER A 4 HOUR DRIVE.

BATTERY DRAIN WHICH CAUSED ELECTRICAL AND LIFT GATE TO STOP FUNCTIONING.

KEY INTERMITTENTLY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION. IT IS OCCURRING MORE FREQUENTLY.

BATTERY DIES FREQUENTLY WITHOUT OBVIOUS CAUSE, EVEN AFTER REPLACING BATTERY SOONER THAN EXPECTED. IT HAPPENS AFTER DRIVING FOR 30 MINUTES, TURNING IT OFF FOR A SHORT PERIOD LIKE 15-20 MINUTES, THEN TRYING TO RESTART, AS WELL AS AFTER SITTING FOR 8-10 HOURS.

PARASITIC DRAIN OF BATTERY BY FAULTY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM OVERNIGHT.

THIS MORNING MY WIFE NOTICED A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD OF OUR 2016 3.6R SUBARU OUTBACK PURCHASED 3/2016. IT ORIGINATES AT THE BASE OF THE WINDSHIELD, PASSES OVER THE 6 RED DEFROSTER WIRES BELOW THE WINDSHIELD, AND EXTENDS ~10" UP ON THE DRIVERS SIDE TOWARD THE REAR VIEW MIRROR. THERE ARE NO PITS ETC., THIS CRACK ORIGINATED ON THE INSIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD. THIS CRACK PERFECTLY MATCHES THE CRACK PATTERN AND DESCRIPTION IDENTIFIED IN SUBARU SERVICE BULLETIN 12-192-15R, REVISED 11/19/15. THAT BULLETIN WAS ISSUED AS A RESULT OF SUBARU'S LOOSING A LAWSUIT IN CALIFORNIA REGARDING BROKEN GLASS WINDSHIELDS BECAUSE OF MANUFACTURING DEFECT. UNFORTUNATELY SUBARU IS ONLY REPLACING DEFECTIVE GLASS ON OUTBACKS UP TO VIN G3222455/G3210476. OUR MANUFACTURING VIN IS EARLY 2016, AND THE JUDGE IN THE CASE DID NOT EXTEND JUDGMENT AGAINST SUBARY TO COVER OUR OUTBACK. THIS IS EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM WITH OUR OUTBACK AS FOR THE CALIFORNIA CASE. HERE IN NEW JERSEY WE HAVE BEEN HAVING SEVERAL WEEKS OF HARSH WEATHER, OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE ~20 DEGREES F IN THE MORNING. THE OUTBACK IS GARAGED, IT IS A WARM GARAGE. EVEN THOUGH THIS IS A 2016, WE ASSUME THE EXTREME IS A FACTOR. THIS IS NOT A STONE HIT PROBLEM, ALL THE DRIVING IS NORTHERN NJ SURBURBAN ROADS, NOT HIGHWAY DRIVING. WE SEE MANY MANY COMPLAINTS DEFINITELY A MANUFACTURING ISSUE. ATTACHING A PHOTO OF CRACK. I RUN MY FINGER OVER THE CRACK AND ACTUALLY CAN'T FEEL ANYTHING, NO DINGS, NOTHING.

IN FOUR YEARS AND 18000 MILES, I AM NOW ON MY THIRD BATTERY AS OF TODAY. I HAVE READ OF RECURRENT ISSUES WITH 2016 OUTBACK BATTERY FAILURES. THE SECOND BATTERY I BOUGHT AT THE ORIGINAL DEALERSHIP WHEN THE VEHICLE HAD 13888 MILES. THE BATTERY WAS PURCHASED 5/15/19. TODAY, 3/2/21 I HAD TO PURCHASE A NEW BATTERY.

BATTERY CONTINUES TO DIE EVEN AFTER BATTERY REPLACEMENT. THIS ISSUE STARTED TO HAPPEN 1 YEAR POST OWNERSHIP

I BELIEVE I AM EXPERIENCING BATTERY DRAIN DUE TO SOME FLAW IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I'M ON MY 2ND. BATTERY AND JUST FOUND I COULDN'T START CAR AND NEEDED A JUMP.

THE CAR BATTERY STARTED DYING FREQUENTLY. IT WAS REPLACED TWICE, FUNCTIONED FINE FOR A FEW MONTHS, AND THEN DIED AGAIN. IT WAS JUMPED ONE DAY, DIED AGAIN 4 DAYS LATER, JUMPED AGAIN AND WAS DEAD AGAIN 5 HOURS LATER.

BATTERY DRAINS CONSTANTLY. CAR CANNOT SIT FOR MORE THAN A FEW DAYS WITHOUT BATTERY BEING DEAD. SUBARU DEALER SAYS THERE IS NO PROBLEM. CAR NEEDS TO BE DRIVEN 20 TO 30 MILES EVERY DAY AS A SOLUTION? PROBLEM HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR MONTHS AND BATTERY IS ONLY 1 YEAR OLD.

OUR SUBARU OUTBACK ORIGINALLY DIED AFTER MY WIFE WAS SITTING IN THE CAR LISTENING TO THE RADIO FOR 10 MINUTES. THE DEALER STATED THAT LISTENING TO THE RADIO WAS THE CAUSE AND CHARGED UP THE BATTERY. COUPLE WEEKS LATER AND THE CAR DIES AGAIN THIS TIME JUST SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY. WE INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY IN HOPES THE PROBLEM WOULD BE FIXED. THE CAR HAS DIED MULTIPLE TIMES SINCE THE NEW BATTERY FROM SIMPLY SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY. NO INTERIOR LIGHTS LEFT ON AND POWER LIGHT GATE CLOSED. AGAIN THE DEALER CHARGED THE BATTERY AND SENT US ON OUR WAY. WE CANNOT LEAVE THIS CAR SITTING ONE DAY WITHOUT THE BATTERY DRAINING. WE ARE NOW ON BATTERY NUMBER TWO.

2.12 FEBRUARY 2021, VEHICLE MILAGE APPROACHING 42,000. TRAVELING FROM MAZAMA WA TO SEATTLE VIA WA HWY 20, US 97 AND I-90, TRAVELED +/- 200 MILES. TEMPERATURE RANGES FROM 10F TO 20F. TRAVELING WEST ON I-90 +/-50 MPH, LANES CLEAR, SNOW IN BETWEEN LANES. NEW MICHELIN TIRES ON ALL 4 WHEELS. HOLDING THE SPEED CONSTANT FOLLOWING 18-WHEEL RIG. SUBARU STARTED WOBBLING AS IF ONE OF THE TIRES WAS GOING FLAT. TRIED ACCELERATING AND SLOWING TO DETERMINE IF THIS WAS FRONT OR BACK TIRE. DETERMINED IT MUST BE A REAR TIRE. NO LOW-PRESSURE INDICATION ON THE INSTRUMENT GAGES (I HAVE HAD TIRE WARNING DURING SUMMER DRIVING AND FOUND A NAIL IN TIRE). NEXT OFF RAMP CHECKED ALL 4 TIRES, ALL APPEARED TO BE THE SAME IN APPEARANCE. RESUMED TRAVEL. DURING ACCELERATION AND DE-ACCELERATING NO DIFFERENTIAL SWAY. WHEN CONSTANT SPEED MAINTAINED AROUND 50 MPH SWAYING OCCURRED UN TO WE REACHED THE WEST SIDE OF SNOQUALMIE PASS AND THE TEMPERATURE WAS INTO THE 30'S. LAST YEAR WHEN HAVING VEHICLE SERVICED, I TOLD THE SERVICE CHECK-IN PERSON & A SUPERVISOR THE CAR WAS STALLING OUT WHEN HARD ACCELERATION DURING MERGING LEFT INTO HIGHWAY WHERE SPEED LIMIT WAS 50 MPH. THE CAR STALLED AND I KICKED THE ACCELERATOR. LUCKILY, THE CAR RESPONDED THE SUPERVISORS RESPONSE WAS 'THERE'S NO WAY THIS CAN HAPPEN'.

THE IGNITION KEY DOESN'T COME OUT WHEN IN PARK. THE GEARS CAN MANUALLY SLIP WHILE IN PARK (WHILE MOVING THE GEAR SHAFT). IT'S LIKE THE CAR DOESN'T RECOGNIZE THE GEAR 'PARK', WHILE ALSO THE KEY GETS STUCK AND WILL NOT COME OUT. THIS HAPPENS NUMEROUS TIMES A DAY.

2/15/21 DEAD BATTERY VEHICLE PARKED IN HOME GARAGE STATIONARY. BATTERY ONE MONTH OLD REPLACED ON 1/21/21 PLUS UPGRADED SOFTWARE. PREVIOUS BATTERY WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY LESS THAN 3 YEARS OLD. 2/15/21 HAD TO GET CAR TOWED FROM HOME GARAGE. OUTBACK STILL UNDER WARRANTY AND WE PURCHASED EXTENDED WARRANTY FROM SUBARU. REMOVED BULB FROM HATCH BACK PER SERVICE MGR. AUTOMATIC STARTER ALSO UNRELIABLE AND WORKS INTERMITTENTLY. FACTORY INSTALLED. VEHICLE UNRELIABLE. SERVICE UNABLE TO FIX PROBLEM. NEED TO PURCHASE A LARGER STRONGER BATTERY FOR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ON OWN TO SEE IF IT HELPS BATTERY PROBLEM. DEALER WILL ONLY GIVE 550 BATTERY.

I HAVE NOW HAD TWO COMPLETE BATTERY DISCHARGES REQUIRING JUMP STARTS WHEN THE HATCH IS OPENED AND CLOSED SEVERAL TIMES WITHOUT THE VEHICLE BEING TURNED ON. OVER A PERIOD OF A FEW HOURS WHEN I OPENED AND CLOSED THE TRUNK WITH THE AUTOMATED OPEN/CLOSE ABOUT 4-5 TIMES THE BATTERY COMPLETELY DISCHARGED REQUIRED JUMP START. THE FIRST TIME I BOUGHT A MEW BATTERY FIGURING IT WAS BAD. THE SECOND TIME NOW I KNOW SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE BATTERY/ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY BOTH TIMES.

KEY GETS STUCK ON IGNITION SWITCH WHEN I TURN CAR OFF AND PUT IT IN PARK. KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. IT TAKES SEVERAL MINUTES, SOME TIMES UP TO 20 MINUTES FOR THE KEY TO RELEASE FROM THE COLUMN. VEHICLE NEEDS TO BE STARTED AND TURNED OFF SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE KEY RELEASES. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR A FEW WEEKS NOW, VERY FRUSTRATING AND DANGEROUS AS HAVING TO START AND STOP THE VEHICLE HAS DRAINED THE BATTERY TWICE NOW AND I HAVE HAD TO GET THE VEHICLE JUMP STARTED. HOPEFULLY THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN IN THE MIDDLE OF NO WHERE.....

I AM CONTINUING TO HAVE AN ISSUE WITH MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK WHERE IT STRUGGLES TO START ALMOST ALL THE TIME IN COLD TEMPERATURES AND THE BATTERY OFTEN DIES. MY SUBARU DEALERSHIP "FIXED" THE ISSUE LAST YEAR BY REPLACING THE BATTERY. NOW THAT COLD WEATHER IS BACK, THE PROBLEM IS BACK. JUMPING THE BATTERY ALWAYS SOLVED THE PROBLEM. NOTE THAT EVEN IN WARM TEMPERATURES THE START ALWAYS SOUNDS "ROUGH".

REPLACED ORIGINAL BATTERY WITH SUBARU BATTERY 12/2019. NEEDED TWO JUMP STARTS AFTER VIRUS TRAVEL PROTOCOLS BEGAN (3/2020). CAR PARKED FOR 3 DAYS (1/28-30/2021) BATTERY WON'T START ENGINE.

WE STARTED DRAINED BATTERIES AT 57,000 MILES (WE ARE AT 61,000 MILES NOW), WHICH WAS ABOUT NOVEMBER 2020. AS OF TODAY, THIS IS OUR 4TH TIME HAVING A DEAD BATTERY. WE HAD A SERVICE CHECK FROM VAN SUBARU KANSAS CITY, MO IN THE LAST MONTH OR SO. THEY TOLD US NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE BATTERY, AND THAT WE LIKELY WEREN'T DRIVING IT ENOUGH. WE DRIVE IT DAILY, BUT NOT FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME, EXCEPT 2 DAYS A WEEK. WE HAVE HAD TO HAVE THE BATTERY JUMPED BY OUR ROAD SIDE SERVICE. WE WILL HAVE IT JUMPED MONDAY 2/1/21 AND GO BACK TO VAN SUBARU. WE READ OF A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR THIS VERY ISSUE. WE BELIEVE IT IS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE. EACH TIME IT HAPPENED WAS IN HE MORNING AFTER THE CAR SAT IN THE GARAGE OVERNIGHT.

STEERING WHEEL LOCKS AND ALL LIGHTS LIGHT UP ON DASH THEN VEHICLE COMPLETELY SHUTS OFF. TRIED TO JUMP VEHICLE AND VEHICLE WILL START BUT TURNS OFF A FEW SECONDS LATER. SUBARU ADVISE IT WAS A DEFECTIVE BATTERY. SUBARU THEN REPLACE BATTERY UNDER WARRANTY ON 11/05/2020. THE BATTERY WAS NOT EVEN 1 YEAR OLD WHEN IT WAS REPLACED. TODAY ON 01/29/2021 IT HAPPENED AGAIN WHILE DRIVING. LUCKY BOTH TIMES I WAS NOT TRAVELING AT A HIGH RATE OF SPEED LIKE ON A HEY. I WAS ABLE TO PULL OFF ON THE SIDE STREET. NOW I'M WAITING FOR A TOW TRUCK TO TOW MY VEHICLE TO THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP.

I IF THE CAR HAS NOT BEEN STARTED AT LEAST EVERY 2 DAYS THE BATTERY IS DEAD AND WON'T START. YOU ALSO CAN'T LEAVE THE DOORS OPEN WHILE VACUUMING THE INSIDE OR THE BATTERY WILL DIE ON YOU. THERE HAS BEEN A LOT OF CHATTER ABOUT THIS MANY PLACES CALLING IT A PARASITIC DRAIN. THIS HAS BEEN A KNOWN ISSUE WITH SUBARU FOR SEVERAL YEARS, WHICH NEVER SEEMS TO GET ADDRESSED. THIS HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES SINCE WE BOUGHT IT NEW.

THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD A CHARGE. I HAD A NEW BATTERY INSTALLED EXACTLY ONE YEAR AGO AND FOR THE LAST TWO MONTHS THE CAR WILL NOT START IF IT IS NOT DRIVEN FOR MORE THAN A DAY OR TWO. I'VE HAD THE CAR JUMPED MULTIPLE TIMES AND HAD THE TERMINALS REPLACE LAST WEEK DUE TO CORROSION. AND TODAY, FOE THE THIRD TIME IN TWO WEEKS THE CAR WILL NOT START. RESEARCH ON THIS WEBSITE AND ON THE INTERNET IN GENERAL TELLS ME THIS IS A KNOWN AND ONGOING ISSUE WITH SUBARU ELECTRICAL AND THEY NEED TO FIGURE A FIX FOR IT ASAP.

WHEN I TRIED TO START MY CAR THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. THIS HAPPENED TWICE LAST YEAR AND I THEN REPLACED THE BATTERY. THIS NEW BATTERY IS ONLY 4 MONTHS OLD AND YESTERDAY IT WAS DEAD AGAIN. EACH TIME A FEW DAYS HAD PASSED SINCE THE CAR HAD LAST BEEN DRIVEN. IT SEEMS THERE MUST BE SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE CAR THAT IS DRAINING THE BATTERY. IN ADDITION, POSSIBLY RELATED TO THE DEAD BATTERY THERE WERE A COUPLE OF TIMES WHEN WE FOUND THE BACK HATCH WIDE OPEN. THE BATTERY WAS NOT DEAD AFTER THIS HAPPENED.

2016 OUTBACK HAS HAD BATTERY PROBLEMS SINCE IT WAS NEW, FIRST BATTERY REPLACED BY SUBARU IN LATE 2017. NOW NEEDED THIRD REPLACEMENT IN JAN 2021. SUBARU WILL PAY 50% WHICH IS $120 WHICH IS ROBBERY AS A NEW BATTERY IS ABOUT THAT MUCH. SUBARU SAYS USE THE CAR MORE, PLUG IN A BATTERY MINDER CHARGER, HI TECH CARS HAVE POWER USAGE EVEN WHEN NOT BEING DRIVEN, ETC. NONE OF MY OTHER CARS, HUNDAI, HONDA HAVE THIS PROBLEM. I BELIEVE EITHER THE OUTBACK DESIGN HAS PARASITIC POWER DRAINAGE, THE BATTERY IS UNDER POWERED OR THERE IS A FLAW IN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM DESIGN.

I DROVE MY CAR TO SKI. I PARKED MY CAR. THE SNOW ACCUMULATED ON WINDSHIELD. AND THEN I FOUND THE WINDSHIELD HAS A LONG CRACK.

I HAVE A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK PURCHASED SEPTEMBER 2019 LAST YEAR REPLACED THE BATTERY, YESTERDAY THE CAR WOULD NOT STRAT. JUMP IT GOT IT TO THE SHOP AND THEY SHOWED THE BATTERY, & ALTERNATOR WERE GOOD. I SREACHED AND SEEN SEVERAL COMPLAINTS THE ARE THE SAME ON 2016 TO 2020. WE NEED A RECALL.

OUR CAR BATTERY HAS REPEATEDLY DIED, WITHOUT ANY EXTENDED USE (I.E., NO LIGHTS WERE LEFT ON, DOORS OPEN, ETC). WE WILL DRIVE IT AND THEN COME BACK OUT TO THE CAR AND THE BATTERY WILL BE DEAD. WE HAD THE BATTERY CHECKED AND WERE INFORMED IT WAS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION.

HAVE HAD TO REPLACE BATTERY 4X IN 18 MONTHS. CURRENTLY HAVE ANOTHER DEAD BATTERY THREE DAYS AFTER REPLACING. CAR CANNOT SIT FOR MORE THAN 4-5 DAYS WITHOUT LOSING BATTER CHARGE. SUGGESTED FIX FROM SUBARU: PUT IT ON A TRICKLE CHARGER. MOST RECENT ISSUE: 1/9/2021.

PURCHASED JAN 2016. BATTERY DIED 3 TIMES WHILE ON TRIPS & CAR SAT FOR 2 WEEKS. REPLACED BATTERY DEC 2018. BATTERY DIED MULTIPLE TIMES WHILE ON TRIPS WHEN CAR SAT FOR 2+ WEEKS. LAST TIME, CAR SAT FOR 3 WEEKS. CAR WAS STARTED WITH JUMP BUT DIDN'T HOLD CHARGE. REPLACED BATTERY 3RD TIME JAN 2021.

UPON SLOWING DOWN & PULLING INTO A PARKING SPACE, TO PARK MY CAR IN FRONT OF A BUSINESS, MY VEHICLE SPONTANEOUSLY ACCELERATED FORWARD, UP OVER THE SIDEWALK. THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED A 2ND TIME AS I TRIED TO STOP THE VEHICLE WITH THE BRAKES. THE VEHICLE DID NOT STOP UNTIL IT IMPACTED THE WALL OF THE BUILDING.

2016 SUBARU OUTBACK'S FRONT WINDSHIELD CRACKED FOR NO APPARENT REASONS

PURCHASED VEHICLE IN AUGUST OF 2015. HAVE HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED MULTIPLE TIMES AS FOLLOWS: *11/20/2018 (608805) *11/01/2019 (630860) *05/18/2020 (641572) AS OF 01/05/2021, THE VEHICLE BATTERY IS DEAD AGAIN AND AT MOORE SUBARU IN RICHMOND, VIRGINIA FOR SERVICE. EACH TIME THE BATTERY HAS BEEN DEAD, IT HAS BEEN PARKED (DRIVEWAY OR WORK) AND WHEN TRYING TO START THE VEHICLE, IT WOULD MAKE A CLICKING NOISE. THIS TIME (1/5/21) THE BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD (DOORS WOULDN'T OPEN, NO NOISES WHEN TRYING TO START). WHEN THE BATTERY DIED IN MAY OF 2020, MOORE SUBARU HAD THE VEHICLE FOR APPROXIMATELY 5 DAYS TO SEE IF THEY COULD DETERMINE THE PROBLEM. THEY ULTIMATELY FOUND NOTHING MORE THAN A POTENTIALLY BAD BATTERY.

THE FRONT EXHAUST PIPE BELLOWS CRACKED. WHEN THE CAR WAS COLD STARTED AND THEN DRIVEN, A RATTLE CAME FROM THE ENGINE BAY WHEN DRIVEN AT 2500 RPM. WHEN THE ENGINE WARMS UP, THE RATTLE GOES AWAY. WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED, EXHAUST FUMES CAN BE SMELLED FROM OUTSIDE THE CAR.

VEHICLE BATTERY HAS UNEXPECTEDLY GONE DEAD THREE TIMES SINCE MARCH 2020. THIS IS AFTER A NEW SUBARU BATTERY WAS INSTALLED IN 2019. I UNDERSTAND THIS IS AN ONGOING PROBLEM WITH SUBARU OUTBACKS (2016-2020). MY DEALERSHIP TOLD ME IT REQUIRES SOFTWARE UPDATES WHICH DON'T SEEM TO WORKING. MY VEHICLE HAS 16000 MILES ON IT.

CAR DIES AND WON'T START A NEW BATTERY WILL LAST 6 MONTHS.

PREMATURE BATTERY FAILURE HAS HAPPENED ON A NUMBER OF OCCASIONS. WHETHER AT HOME OR AFTER A SHORT TRIP, THE CAR BECOMES UNABLE TO START WITHOUT ASSISTANCE. THE VEHICLE WON'T START AS IF IT HAS DEAD BATTERY BUT THEN OPERATORS NORMALLY FOR A PERIOD OF TIME AFTER A JUMP START FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE OR AFTER BEING PLACED ON A BATTERY CHARGER.

THE BATTERY HAS GONE DEAD AT LEAST 3 TIMES, EVEN AFTER FRESH REPLACEMENT. THE FIRST TIME WAS DUE TO REAR INSIDE LIGHT BEING SWITCHED ON (ACCORDING TO THE SUBARU SERVICE TECHNICIAN). THE SECOND TIME WAS WHILE OUT RUNNING ERRANDS. THE THIRD TIME WAS AFTER BEING PARKED FOR TWO DAYS. THE BATTERY IS LESS THAN A YEAR OLD AND SHOULD NOT BE DRAINED FROM POWER LIKE THIS.

AT ABOUT 71,000 MILES, THERE IS AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM WITH REMOVING THE IGNITION KEY FROM THE LOCK. THE VEHICLE IS ALWAYS STATIONARY WHEN THIS PROBLEM IS NOTICED.

BATTERY DRAIN ISSUE WHEN THE VEHICLE SITS FOR MORE THAN THREE DAYS WILL HAVE A WEAK START. BATTERY WILL DRAIN IF RADIO IS ON WITH CAR NOT RUNNING IN BETWEEN 15-30 MINUTES. MY SECOND BATTERY IS READY FOR REPLACEMENT IN 4 YEARS. TWO YEAR BATTERY LIFE IS UNACCEPTABLE. ATTACHING PICTURE OF WHEN THIS HAPPENED TO TWO SUBARU OUTBACK AT THE SAME TIME. UPON RESEARCH MANY SUBARU OWNERS HAVE THIS PROBLEM

CAR REPEATEDLY STOPPED WORKING BECAUSE OF DEAD BATTERY. CAR WAS PURCHASED NEW IN 2016. FIRST INSTANCE WAS WHEN LIFT GATE WAS LEFT OPEN OVER NIGHT IN GARAGE, 2 YEARS AFTER PURCHASE. SECOND INSTANCE WAS WHEN OVERHEAD LAMP WAS LEFT ON OVERNIGHT IN GARAGE. THIRD THE SAME AS SECOND IN A PARKING LOT. LAST INSTANCE WAS TODAY WHEN I DROVE A FEW MILES, PARKED CAR FOR AN HOUR AND THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AFTER THAT. LIFT GATE WAS OPENED 10 MINUTES BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO START THE CAR. AAA RESTARTED THE CAR IN ALL FOUR INSTANCES.

BATTERY DRAINS PREMATURELY. THE VEHICLE IS 5 YEARS OLD AND IS IN NEED OF A 3RD BATTERY REPLACEMENT. THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN JUMP STARTED 4 TIMES OVER THE YEARS.

KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHEN PARKED AFTER DRIVING. REQUIRES MULTIPLE SHIFTING FROM PARK TO DRIVE AND BACK TO PARK BEFORE KEY WILL RELEASE. FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE IS NOW EVERY OTHER DAY. VEHICLE HAS 48,500 MILES ON IT CURRENTLY.

I REPLACED THE INITIAL BATTERY ON 10/22/2018 WITH A BATTERY RECOMMENDED FOR THIS VEHICLE. 4/17/20 I REPLACED THE BATTERY AGAIN. ON NOVEMBER 15, 2020 THE CAR BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DRAINED. I PURCHASED A POWER PACK TO KEEP IN THE CAR FOR EMERGENCIES. ON DECEMBER 2, 2020 THE CAR BATTERY WAS COMPLETED DRAINED AGAIN. LUCKILY, I WAS STATIONARY WHEN THESE INCIDENTS HAPPENED. AFTER THESE TWO INCIDENTS, I AM TAKING IT TO THE DEALERSHIP TOMORROW. I TRAVEL FOR WORK TO SOME REMOTE PLACES AND AM NO LONGER CONFIDENT IN THIS CAR'S PERFORMANCE.

WE ARE REPORTING THIS TODAY, BUT THIS ISSUE HAS GONE ON FOR 2 YEARS. PURCHASED AN OUTBACK USED FROM THE DEALER. BATTERY CONTINUALLY DIES, LEAVING US STRANDED AT HOME OR AWAY FROM HOME. SUBARU DEALER SAYS THE BATTERY TEST GOOD, AND TELL US WE JUST NEED TO DRIVE THE CAR MORE OFTEN. THIS CAR IS DRIVEN DAILY, SO THAT IS NOT THE PROBLEM. DEALER SAYS THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT'S WRONG WITH IT. AFTER SEARCHING FOR SIMILAR ISSUES FROM OTHER OWNERS, IT'S EVIDENT SUBARU IS COVERING THIS UP. UNFORTUNATELY WITHOUT SUBARU WILLING TO FIX THE ISSUE AND NOT TELLING US HOW TO FIX IT WE'RE STUCK WITH THE CAR IN ITS CURRENT STATE.

MULTIPLE CRACKED WINDSHIELDS UNEXPLAINED. CRACKED UNDER MINIMAL STRESS IN HEAT AND COLD WHILE IN MOTION. INSURANCE DID NOT COVER DEDUCTIBLES OR ALTERNATE TRANSPORTATION DURING REPAIRS

MULTIPLE CRACKED WINDSHIELDS UNEXPLAINED. WINDSHIELDS CRACKED WITH MINIMAL STRESS MOSTLY WHILE IN MOTION AT LOW AND HIGH SPEEDS.

CAR WAS PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM DEALER. IT RAINED WITHIN A COUPLE DAYS AND DISCOVERED THE WIPERS DIDN'T WORK. DEALER FIXED. MULTIPLE TIMES THE BATTERY HAS DIED. DEALER NO HELP AT ALL AND BLAMES IT ON BATTERY. REPLACED THE BATTERY IN 2017. STILL OFTEN HAVE BATTERY DIE AND WE ALWAYS TURN OFF THE CAR ENTIRELY AND LOCK IT. ONCE IT EVEN DIED AFTER MY FAMILY SPENT ALL DAY AT THE BEACH AND WE WERE STRANDED.

2016 SUBARU OUTBACK - THIS STARTED BACK IN MARCH 2020 WHEN WE REDUCED TRAVEL DUE TO COVID-19. IF THE CAR IS STATIONARY/PARKED AND NOT DRIVEN OR STARTED THE BATTERY WILL GO DOWN WITHIN 7 TO 10 DAYS. AT THAT TIME THE CAR REMOTE WILL NOT OPEN ANY DOOR OR TAILGATE BUT THE SECURITY DASH LIGHT WILL STILL BE BLINKING. THE CAR WAS PARKED WITH THE BUILT IN SUBARU ALARM SET. THE CAR CAN BE OPENED WITH THE KEY BUT THE ALARM IS NOT TRIGGERED AS NORMALLY WOULD HAPPEN. THE INTERIOR LIGHTS DO NOT LIGHT WHEN THE DOOR IS OPENED. THE HEAD LIGHTS ARE TURNED OFF ON THE COLUMN CONTROL. NO LIGHTS ARE REMAINING ON EXTERNALLY OR INTERNALLY WHEN THE CAR IS STATIONARY/PARKED. THE CAR MUST BE CHARGED OR BATTERY REPLACED (ALREADY REPLACED THE BATTERY ONCE) BEFORE IT CAN BE STARTED. AFTER THE CAR HAD BEEN CHARGED AND THE DOOR IS OPENED THE BUILT IN SUBARU ALARM SYSTEM IS TRIGGERED - THE REMOTE WILL NOW WORK AND SHUTS THE ALARM OFF.

WE HAD A DANGEROUS SITUATION WITH OUR CHILD A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO AND HAD TO SET THE CHILD LOCK ON THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR (PASSENGER SIDE). THE CHILD LOCK DOES NOT UNDO NOW. AFTER AN INTERNET SEARCH, THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM/DEFECT FOR MANY OWNERS, ESPECIALLY AFTER SETTING THE CHILD LOCKS FOR THE FIRST TIME. THIS IS A DANGEROUS SITUATION AS THE DOOR CANNOT BE OPENED FROM THE INSIDE NOW AT ALL AND WE DON'T NEED THE CHILD LOCKS ACTIVATED. IT IS VERY FRUSTRATING FOR OUR KIDS WHO ARE TEENAGERS TO NOT BE ABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR.

THIS IS THE SECOND TIME WE'VE HAD TO REPLACE OUR 2016 OUTBACK BATTERY. IT BEGINS WITH A SLUGGISH START AND THEN EVENTUALLY, THE BATTERY WON'T TURN THE ENGINE.

I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER HAVING PURCHASED THE VEHICLE ON 10/13/2015. I HAVE HAD 4 BATTERIES SINCE INITIAL OWNERSHIP: 1.10/13/2015 2.10/21/2017 (SUBARU REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY) 3.4/14/2019 (PURCHASED BATTERY FROM CSAA) 4.10/28/2020 (REPLACED BY CSAA) IT APPEARS TO HAVE A DEFECTIVE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.

PURCHASED THE VEHICLE, CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED, IN 2018. AFTER ONLY ONE YEAR OF OWNERSHIP, THE BATTERY DIED AND IT WAS REPLACED. IN 2020, HAVE NOW HAD THE BATTERY DIE ON THREE OCCASIONS: 1) AFTER VEHICLE ENGINE IS OFF, RADIO IS ON FOR SHORT PERIOD OF TIME (LESS THAN 20 MINS), HAVING JUST DRIVEN FOR ~5 HOURS 2) 1 WEEK LATER, AFTER DAILY DRIVING, DOORS ARE OPEN FOR ~15 MINS FROM LOADING UP THE CAR - AT THIS POINT WE TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALER, BUT THEY COULD NOT REPLICATE THE ISSUE. 3) 1 MONTH LATER, AFTER RADIO IS ON FOR ~1 HOUR 30 MINUTES, MANAGED TO START VEHICLE 3 TIMES DURING THAT 1.5 HOURS, BUT ON THE 4TH ATTEMPT IT DID NOT WORK. MEANWHILE 6 OTHER VEHICLES, OF VARIOUS MAKES AND MODELS, WHO ALSO HAD THEIR RADIOS ON FOR THE SAME AMOUNT OF TIME, WERE ABLE TO DRIVE AWAY WITHOUT ISSUE.

MY 2016 OUTBACK BATTERY IS CONSTANTLY GOING DEAD FOR NO REASON WHAT SO EVER. IF IT SITS FOR ONE DAY WITHOUT BEING DRIVEN, THE BATTERY WILL BE DEAD. I CAN SWITCH OUT THE BATTERY AND IT WILL FIX THE ISSUE FOR A FEW MONTHS, THEN BACK TO THE BATTERY BEING DEAD IF THE CAR SITS FOR ONE DAY WITHOUT BEING DRIVEN. IT'S NOT THE BATTERY, IT'S THE CAR! IT'S HAPPENED TO ME MORE TIMES THAN I CAN COUNT.

VEHICLE'S BATTERY CONTINUES TO DRAIN FOR NO APPARENT REASON. THIS HAS BEEN AN ISSUE SINCE WE BOUGHT THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKE TO SUBARU FOR WARRANTY SERVICE AND THEY DEEMED THERE WAS NOT AN ISSUE. WE HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY TWICE AND THE SAME ISSUE PERSISTS.

WIFE HAD AN ACCIDENT WHERE SHE PULLED IN FRONT OF LARGE F350 TRUCK, HIT ON PASSENGER SIDE. SHE WAS GOING 15 MPH, AND TRUCK WAS GOING 50-60 MPH. THE SIDE CURTAIN AND FRONT AIRBAG ON PASSENGER SIDE DEPLOYED. HER CAR ALSO HIT A SIGN AND TREE, CAVING IN THE FRONT OF VEHICLE. HER DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY AND SHE WAS SEVERELY INJURED AND SPENT 8 DAYS IN HOSPITAL. LOST PARTIAL DENTURES, ANOTHER TOOTH AND BENT HER IMPLANT WHEN HER FACE HIT STEERING WHEEL. SHE HAD ABOUT 150 STITCHES TO FACE AND HAS PERMANENT SCARING TO FACE AS A RESULT OF THE FAILURE OF AIRBAG TO DEPLOY. SHE WAS WEARING SEAT BELT AND HAS BRUISES TO SHOW FOR IT. THE DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAG SHOULD HAVE DEPLOYED. AIRBAG IS MADE BY TAKATA. COULD NOT FIND ANY OPEN RECALLS ON AIRBAG. INITIAL IMPACT WAS TO RIGHT SIDE, AND THEN FRONT OF HER 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK STRUCK TREE AND SIGN. AIRBAG SHOULD HAVE DEPLOYED.

PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE 3/2019, STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE BATTERY DYING IN A FEW MONTHS, EVEN HAVING THE HATCH OPEN DURING CLEANING WOULD DRAIN THE BATTERY. WE WOULD JUMP IT WITH ANOTHER VEHICLE AND THE BATTERY WOULD DRAIN IN A FEW DAYS WHETHER WE USED THE VEHICLE OR NOT. I HAVE BEEN STRANDED ALONE IN NOT A SAFE ENVIRONMENT N MORE THAN ONE OCCASION. TOOK THE BATTERY IN TO BE CHECKED AND THEY SAID IT WAS FINE. PURCHASED A BATTERY TENDER AND WOULD LEAVE IT HOOKED UP AND THEN FINALLY THAT NO LONGER FUNCTIONED. HAD TO PURCHASE A NEW BATTERY. WE WILL SEE HOW LONG THIS ONE WILL LAST BEFORE THE SAME THING HAPPENS. SINCE WE LIVE FAR OUT OF TOWN WE RELY ON THIS CAR TO BE IN TIP TOP RUNNING ORDER FOR ANY EMERGENCIES WE MAY HAVE. NOT THE CASE, SORRY TO SAY, BUT I REALLY EXPECTED MORE FROM SUBARU AND RIGHTFULLY SO. THEY HAVE EARNED AN AMAZING REPUTATION SO SURPRISED THEY KNOW ABOUT THE PROBLEM AND WON'T FIX IT.

BATTERY HAS DIED TWICE IN THE LAST 5 MONTHS WHEN NOTHING WAS LEFT ON AND THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK. IT CONTINUES TO DRAIN EVEN WHEN WE REPLACED WITH A HIGH LEVEL BATTERY

WE PURCHASED A 2016 OUTBACK IN 2019 WITH RELATIVELY LOW MILEAGE AND WITHIN THE FIRST FEW MONTHS OF OWNING THE BATTERY FAILED ON US MULTIPLE TIMES AND THE CAR REQUIRED A JUMP IN ORDER TO START. THIS HAPPENED WHEN ON GROCERY TRIPS, OUTSIDE OUR HOUSE IN THE MORNING, AND EVEN MULTIPLE TIMES IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER WHEN RETURNING TO THE AIRPORT AFTER A BUSINESS TRIP. AFTER SEEING A MECHANIC, PURCHASED A NEW BATTERY AND STILL ENCOUNTERED THE SAME ISSUE. WE SAW A SECOND MECHANIC, AND PURCHASED A NEW ALTERNATOR RECENTLY AND CONTINUE TO HAVE FREQUENT BATTERY FAILURES, SOMETIMES AS OFTEN AS ONCE PER WEEK, REQUIRING A JUMP TO START THE CAR. THIS SEEMS VERY ODD GIVEN THE NEWNESS OF THE CAR, BATTERY, AND ALTERNATOR AND WE BELIEVE THERE IS SOMETHING DEFECTIVE WITH THE CAR WIRING. THIS MONTH WE HAD AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC LOOK AT THE CAR AND HE COULD FIND NO ISSUE WITH THE BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR, HIS THOUGHT WAS IT COULD BE DUE TO FAULTY VEHICLE WIRING. WE THEN RESEARCHED AND HEARD THERE IS A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR OUR MODEL / YEAR AGAINST SUBARU FOR THIS AND BELIEVE OUR VEHICLE IS IMPACTED. THIS HAPPENS VERY OFTEN, WE NOW HAVE PURCHASED A PORTABLE BATTERY PACK SO WE CAN JUMP OUR CAR AS NEEDED AND AGAIN THE ISSUE HAPPENED THIS MORNING.

WINDSHIELDS KEEPS CRACKING. REPAIRS ARE EXPENSIVE BECAUSE OF EYESIGHT CALIBRATION. WINDSHIELD CRACKED SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASE IN EARLY 2018, REPAIRED IT IMMEDIATELY, THEN CRACKED AGAIN WITHIN 2 OR 3 MONTHS. CRACK BOTH TIMES SPREAD MORE THAN 6 INCHES IN LESS THAN AN HOUR.

BATTERY IS DRAINED PREMATURELY. POSSIBLY BY A DRAIN FROM THE ECM. I HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY AFTER ONLY 1 YEAR OF USE.

BATTERY DIES WHEN PARKED IN GARAGE, SOMETIMES ONLY AFTER SITTING OVERNIGHT. CAREFUL TO BE SURE NO LIGHTS ARE LEFT ON OR DOORS AJAR. I'M NOW ON MY THIRD BATTERY IN 4 YEARS. REPLACED OEM BATTERY WITH UP SIZED GROUP 34 TO INCREASE CCA AND RESERVE CAPACITY. ALSO PURCHASED A LITHIUM ION JUMP STARTER TO CARRY AROUND IN CASE OF DEAD BATTERY. THE UPSIZED BATTERY BEGAN FAILING AGAIN AFTER 2 YEARS. REPLACED WITH UPSIZED AGM BATTERY. CAN'T TRUST THE CAR TO SAFELY TRANSPORT MY WIFE AND GRANDCHILDREN ANYMORE.

I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY YET WHEN TRAVELING I NEED TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, RESTART THE CAR STRESSING MY IGNITION SYSTEM, OR MOVE SLIGHTLY IN REVERSE AND BACK TO PARK TO REMOVE THE KEY. EACH TIME IS DIFFERENT, SOMETIMES I CAN REMOVE THE KEY, SOMETIMES I CANNOT.

WHEN THE CAR IS STARTED UP ON A COLD MORNING IT IDLES TOO FAST AND LURCHES DANGEROUSLY WHEN PUT INTO DRIVE. I HAVE TO HOLD THE CAR BACK WITH FIRM BRAKING. I HAVE HAD NUMEROUS CLOSE CALLS OVER THE LAST FOUR YEARS THAT I HAVE OWNED THE CAR. THE CAR IS A 2016 OUTBACK 3.6 R WITH A 6 CYLINDER ENGINE.

MY KEYS KEPT GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION BECAUSE OF AN ELECTRICAL MALFUNCTION THAT CAUSED THE STEERING COLUMN TO BE UNABLE TO DETECT WHEN THE CAR WAS PUT INTO PARK. I HAD THE ENTIRE GEAR SHIFTER REPLACED. THIS SEEMS TO BE A FAR TOO COMMON PROBLEM ON THIS MODEL OF SUBARU OUTBACKS. THIS IS THE NUMBER 1 CAR COMPLAINT AND THOUSANDS OF FOLKS ON FORUMS REPORT THE SAME ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HER VEHICLE WAS IN THE DRIVEWAY OF HER RESIDENCE, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT ASKED A NEIGHBOR FOR ASSISTANCE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE BATTERY WAS TAKEN OUT OF THE VEHICLE AND TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE A NEW BATTERY WAS PURCHASED. (BATTERY TYPE INTERSTATE 25-550 FITMENT 6). THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED BY THE TECHNICIAN. NO DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE HOWEVER, INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT NO KNOWLEDGE OF THE FAILURE WAS PROVIDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 24,000.*DT CONSUMER STATED BATTERY DIED A YEAR LATER AFTER REPLACEMENT.*JB

A VALVE SPRING FAILED, CAUSING THE VALVE TO BREAK AND BECOME EMBEDDED IN THE PISTON.THIS CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO BE INOPERABLE.

WITH 39000+ MILES ON WE ARE ON 3RD BATTERY. WAITING FOR RELATIVE TO HELP..HUSBAND DISABLED AND HAD TO CANCEL DR APPT TODAY AS IT WOULD NOT START...SCARED TO GO ANYWHERE FOR FEAR IT WILL NOT START. NOT GOOD.FORTUNATELY MOST TIMES IT HAS BEEN IN THE GARAGE. ALWAYS GARAGED.

II WAS DRIVING ON AN OPEN HIGHWAY WITH NO CARS IN CLOSE VICINITY WHEN WINDSHIELD CRACKED FOR NO APPARENT REASON. CRACK WAS ON DRIVER SIDE NEAR EDGE ABOUT 12 INCHES LONG. ON INVESTIGATION, THERE WERE NO NICKS OR PITS IN THE WINDSHIELD, JUST THE CRACK. WHEN THE WINDSHIELD WAS BEING REPLACED, THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT IT WAS WIERD THAT A SIMILAR CRACK DEVELOPED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD AS HE WAS REMOVING THE SHIELD FROM THE CAR.

CURRENTLY AT LEAST A COUPLE TIMES A WEEK, MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHILE SHUTTING OFF VEHICLE TO PARK. YOU CAN TURN THE VEHICLE OFF, BUT YOU CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY. IF I FIDDLE WITH THE SHIFTER AND ROTATE THE STEERING WHEEL, RESTART THE VEHICLE, AND SHIFT IT INTO DRIVE, AND THEN SLAM IT BACK INTO PARK, THEN I CAN TURN THE VEHICLE OFF AND THE KEY WILL COME OUT. . BUT SOMETIMES I HAVE TO REPEAT THE PROCEDURE A FEW TIMES. THIS STARTED WHEN VEHICLE WAS APPROX A YEAR OLD AND I THOUGHT THAT MAYBE I HAD THE STEERING WHEEL NOT IN THE CORRECT LOCATION FOR THE KEY TO BE REMOVED AS TIME PASSED THE PROBLEM GRADUALLY GOT WORSE. I THEN DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND THAT A LOT OF OTHERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS SAME ISSUE.

SUBARU SERVICE DEPARTMENT BERTERA SUBARU OF HARTFORD STATING IGNITION SWITCH PLATE NEEDS REPLACEMENT $650 JOB MULTIPLE OCCURRENCES WITH OTHER VEHICLES OF SAME MODEL YEAR

FRONT WINDSHIELD CRACKED, ORIGINATING FROM THE EDGE OF THE WINDOW, ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO WHILE PARKED WITHOUT ANY OVERHANGING HAZARDS OR ADVERSE WEATHER. THERE IS NO ASSOCIATED GLASS 'DING' FROM AN IMPACT. I BELIEVE THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM THAT LED TO A LAWSUIT AGAINST SUBARU INVOLVING 2015-2016 OUTBACK'S.

I HAVE HAD 3 BATTERIES REPLACED IN THE PAST FOUR YEARS. PERIODICALLY THE BATTERY JUST DRAINS UNEXPECTEDLY AND I AM STUCK WHEREVER THE VEHICLE HAPPENS TO BE PARKED. THIS IS NOT A RESULT OF LIGHTS BEING LEFT ON, DOORS OPEN, RADIO ON, ETC. SUBARU REPLACES THE BATTERIES UNDER WARRANTY, BUT WILL NOT ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM AND I NEVER KNOW WHEN THE CAR WILL GET STUCK BECAUSE OF A DRAINED BATTERY.

WE PURCHASED A CAR BRAND NEW IN SAVANNAH, GA AND SINCE HAVE REPLACED WINDSHIELD THREE TIMES. IT HAS A SMALL CRACK AGAIN. ALL OUR REPLACEMENTS OCCURRED AGAINST OUR INSURANCE. OUR COVERAGE HAS INCREASE IN PREMIUMS. PREVIOUSLY, I NEVER HAD AN ISSUE WITH WINDSHIELD CRACKED ON REGULAR OCCURRENCE. ANOTHER ISSUE - WHEN IT RAINS THE VISIBILITY IS EXTREMELY POOR. DESPITE I BUY THE EXPENSIVE WIPERS TO REPLACE THEM AT LEAST ONCE IN 12 MONTHS UNABLE TO ADJUST/INCREASE THE WIPER SPEED FOR THE HEAVY RAIN MAKES THE DRIVING EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. OPTIONAL EYESIGHT WHICH WAS ADDED AS AN OPTION IS SHUTS ITSELF DUE TO THE HEAVY RAIN AND IS NO HELP. EYESIGHT IS ALSO UNDERPERFORM WHAT WAS PROMISED BY MANUFACTURER. ALL ABOVE APPLIES FOR VEHICLE IN MOTION.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, THE TRANSMISSION IN MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK STARTED MAKING A LOUD GRINDING SOUND AND VIOLENTLY HALTED THE CAR TO A STOP. I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH THAT IT WASN'T DURING A BUSY TIME AND AN ACCIDENT WAS NARROWLY AVOIDED. THIS TRANSMISSION ONLY HAD 67,000 MILES ON IT AND IS ACTUALLY THE SECOND TRANSMISSION THAT CAR HAS HAD. IN 2018 THE TRANSMISSION HAD TO BE REPLACED AFTER 68,000 MILES. LUCKILY IT WAS FULLY COVERED UNDER AN EXTENDED WARRANTY I PURCHASED WHEN I BOUGHT IT. LATER THE TRANSMISSIONS WERE GIVEN A WARRANTY EXTENSION WHICH EXTENDED THE WARRANTY TO 100,000. THE NEWEST TRANSMISSION (THE ONE THAT JUST VIOLENTLY GRINDED TO A HALT ON THE HIGHWAY) CURRENTLY HAS 67,000 MILES ON THAT NEW TRANSMISSION, BUT SUBARU WILL NOT HONOR THE 100,000 WARRANTY EXTENSION BECAUSE THE REMAINDER OF THE VEHICLE HAS 135,000 MILES ON IT. I DO COUNT MYSELF LUCKY THAT THIS DIDN'T CAUSE AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE I HAD MY FAMILY IN THE VEHICLE WITH ME AND WE COULD'VE BEEN SERIOUSLY HURT.

WITHOUT WARNING THE SUNROOF GLASS SPONTANEOUSLY EXPLODED WHILE DRIVING 40 MILES PER HOUR

WE HAVE HAD 2 MAJOR ISSUES WITH THIS CAR: 1- MULTIPLE EPISODES OF BATTERY FAILURE REQUIRING A JUMP START OVER THE LAST YEAR. THIS HAS HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR WAS NOT USED FOR A WEEK, BUT ALSO RANDOMLY AFTER A DRIVE. JUST HAPPENED 4 DAYS AGO AFTER A 30 MINUTE HIGHWAY DRIVE- WHEN WE CAME BACK OUT TO THE CAR AFTER 15 MINUTES, IT WOULDN'T START. WE JUMP STARTED IT, AND IT WAS FINE FOR A FEW DAYS, BUT NOW DEAD AGAIN IN MY DRIVEWAY. THE CAR OFTEN HAS A SHUDDERING AND OCCASIONAL STALL WHEN STARTING IT. MOST WORRISOME, I WAS RECENTLY DRIVING WITH MY DAUGHTER AND AFTER WE EXITED THE HIGHWAY, AND SLOWED DOWN FOR A TOLL, THE CAR LOST IT'S ACCELERATION, DESPITE RPMS REVVING. WE PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, TURNED THE CAR OFF AND RE-STARTED, AND IT RAN REGULARLY HOME, BUT THIS WAS FRIGHTENING.

WHEN THE LIFTGATE IS CLOSING A "CLICKING" NOISE IS MADE DUE TO STRESS ON THE LIFTGATE MOTOR. THIS IS CAUSED BECAUSE OF THE SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF STRAIN ON THE MOTOR TO OPEN THE LIFTGATE. THIS IS A SIGNIFICANT SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE THE MOTOR WAS DESIGNED TO BE UNDER SIGNIFICANT STRESS AND WHEN IT FAILS, WILL CAUSE THE LIFTGATE TO FALL POTENTIALLY INJURING MY CHILDREN UNLOADING THE TRUNK. THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP AGREED THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE RESOLVED BUT DOES NOT COVER THE COST OF REPAIRING THIS SAFETY ISSUE.

UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN TURNED OFF. INTERMITTENT ISSUE, APPEARS MANY PEOPLE HAVE THE PROBLEM. APPEARS THAT DEALERS WANT TO CHARGE BIG $$ TO FIX, SUBARU NEEDS TO STEP UP, THERE IS A TSP ON THIS ISSUE

WHEN YOU SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF THEY KEY GETS STUCK IN ACCESSORY MODE AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. PROBLEM OCCURS INTERMITTENTLY.

BATTERY DIES UNEXPECTEDLY WITHIN A FEW MINUTES OF THE VEHICLE OFF AND IN ACCESSORY MODE ONLY (I.E. CAR OFF, RADIO OR LIGHTS ON). VEHICLE WILL NOT START WITHOUT JUMP FROM BATTERY PACK OR ANOTHER VEHICLE. CAR WILL NOT EVEN CRANK BUT WILL ONLY MAKE A CLICKING NOISE. OCCASIONALLY, ENGINE TIMING WILL BE AFFECTED AFTER JUMP AND MISFIRES WILL OCCUR CAUSING VEHICLE TO RUN VERY ROUGH UNTIL RESTARTED, AT WHICH POINT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SEEMS TO RESET ITSELF. TO DATE, DEALER HAS FOUND NO DIRECT CAUSE FOR THE PROBLEM (I.E. NO PARASITIC DRAWS) BUT HAS REPLACED THE BATTERY (WHICH ARE UNDER WARRANTY) MULTIPLE TIMES. PROBLEM HAS OCCURRED NUMEROUS TIMES SINCE IT WAS PURCHASED IN LATE 2015.

ABOUT 4 WEEKS AGO WE STARTED HAVING TROUBLE REMOVING OUR KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER DRIVING AND PUTTING THE SHIFTER IN PARK. OUR 2015 OUTBACK HAS JUST OVER 58,000 MILES. THE KEY WON'T TURN TO THE FINAL "CLICK" FOR REMOVAL. THAT LEAVES THE CAR IN A MODE WHERE THE BATTERY IS STILL ENGAGED AS THE RADIO IS STILL ON. THE STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT GO INTO A LOCKED POSITION, IT CAN BE TURNED EITHER DIRECTION WITHOUT RESISTANCE. I HAVE TO START THE CAR AGAIN AND SHIFT IT INTO DRIVE AND TRY TURNING THE CAR OFF AGAIN. SOMETIMES I ONLY HAVE TO DO THAT ONCE BUT THERE HAVE BEEN MANY TIMES WHEN IT TAKES 20-30 ATTEMPTS TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. I'M USUALLY ON A FAIRLY FLAT SURFACE. IT DOESN'T MATTER IF I WAS DRIVING FORWARD OR REVERSE BEFORE STOPPING. SUBARU RELEASED A SERVICE BULLETIN # 16-112-18R ISSUED 03/15/18 AND REVISED 11/06/18 THAT DESCRIBES THE PROBLEM AND THE SOLUTION BUT SUBARU SAYS IT IS NOT A RECALL ISSUE. THEY ADMIT IT'S A FAULTY PARTS PROBLEM BUT WON'T FIX IT IN A RECALL. ACCORDING TO THE SERVICE BULLETIN I SHOULD REPLACE "SHIFT LEVER COMPLETE". SOME OWNERS WHO HAD THIS DONE SAID IT'S OVER $500 TO REPAIR, DEPENDING ON THE DEALERSHIP.

SINCE PURCHASING VEHICLE ON 6/16/2016 WE HAVE HAD A RECURRING PROBLEM WITH DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW ENGAGING THE AUTO-REVERSING (ANTI-ENTRAPMENT) FEATURE CAUSING AN INABILITY TO CLOSE WINDOW. WE HAVE MENTIONED THIS ISSUE TO DEALERSHIP NUMEROUS TIMES SOMETIMES DOCUMENTED, SOMETIMES NOT. THEY RESET SWITCH, ONLY FOR THE PROBLEM TO RETURN. ON OUR LAST VISIT6/31/2020 WE WERE TOLD THERE WAS A TSB (12-272-19R) BUT WE WOULD BE CHARGED $276.22 FOR THE REPAIR. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD BE COVERED. WE ALSO PURCHASED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR $2547.00 GOOD UNTIL 6/16/2026 OR 126000 MILES AND WERE TURNED DOWN ON COVERAGE FROM THEM AS WELL.

MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK ALL OF SUDDEN HAD WARNING LIGHTS SUCH AS: BRAKE, ABS, AND STABILITY TRACTION CONTROL POPPED UP ON THE DASHBOARD WHEN THE CAR WAS IN PARK ANS WHEN I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND WILL NOT GO AWAY. IT HAS MADE MY STEERING WHEEL REALLY HARD TO TURN.

THE BATTERY IN THE CAR HAS FAILED 4 TIMES IN 4 YEARS. SUBARU CANNOT FIND THE REASON FOR THE FAILURE. THIS IS NOT NORMAL AND APPEARS TO BE DEFECT IN THE CAR. I AM NOT GETTING ANY ANSWERS FROM SUBARU ON WHY IS THIS HAPPENING.THE CAR WAS PARKED AT HOME OVER NIGHT THE OTHER 2 TIMES JUST AFTER ARRIVING AT OUR CAMP SITE. WE STOP THE CAR AND THEN SHORTLY ATTEMPT TO RESTART THE CAR AND NOTHING HAPPENS. EACH TIME THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN HUNDRED OF MILES. EACH CAMPING TIME WE WERE HUNDREDS OF MILES FROM HOME AND WITHOUT CELL PHONE SERVICE. I HAVE REPORTS FROM SUBARU AND AUTO ZONE ON REPLACING THE BATTERIES.

THE BATTERY PREMATURELY DIES, TYPICALLY AFTER USING THE RADIO OR OTHER ACCESSORIES FOR ONLY A SHORT WHILE (10 MINUTES) WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO MY VEHICLE 2 TIMES IN THE LAST 4 MONTHS. IN BOTH CASES, THE BATTERY HAS BEEN TESTED AND SHOWN TO BE FINE.

THE CAR IS STATIONARY WHEN THIS HAPPENS. THE IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF. BESIDES BEING ANNOYING, THIS PREVENTS THE CAR FROM BEING LOCKED THUS INTRODUCES A THEFT RISK. EVENTUALLY, WE ARE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY BUT THERE IS NO CONSISTENT METHOD OF DOING SO. IT'S A MATTER OF TIME AND MESSING WITH TURNING THE CAR ON AND OFF, MOVING THE SHIFTER, JIGGLING THE KEY, OR MOVING THE STEERING WHEEL BEFORE IT COMES OUT. GOOGLE INDICATES THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH SUBARUS SO I DON'T KNOW WHY THERE IS NOT A RECALL. THIS HAPPENS SPORADICALLY AND HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR THE PAST SEVERAL MONTHS.

I'VE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY TWICE IN TWO YEARS. NORMAL OPERATION DRAINS BATTERY PREMATURELY.

THIS MORNING 7/21/2020 MY BATTERY FAILED FOR THE 4TH TIME IN 4 YEARS. I PURCHASED THE CAR NEW ON 2/29/2016-YES LEAP YEAR. EACH TIME THE BATTERY WAS TOTALLY DRAINED. THE ORIGINAL SUBARU BATTERY WAS REPLACED WITH A BETTER DELCO BATTERY, AND THEN ANOTHER BETTER DELCO BATTER 18 MONTHS AGO AND NOW TODAY! STILL WAITING AT THE GARAGE. MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ON THE NHTSA WEBSITE BUT NO RECALLS! SOMETHING IS DRAWING THE BATTERY DOWN WHICH TO ME IS A SAFETY ISSUE. WHEN DO ENOUGH COMPLAINTS WARRANT A RECALL? THIS IS ABSURD. EACH TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED MY SUBARU WAS IN AN UNDERGROUND GARAGE.

THIS MORNING 7/21/2020 MY BATTERY FAILED FOR THE 4TH TIME IN A LITTLE OVER 4 YEARS. DEAD, COMPLETELY DRAINED ACCORDING TO AAA. FIRST THE ORIGINAL SUBARU BATTERY, THEN A BETTER DELCO REPLACED THAT, THEN ANOTHER BETTER DELCO, NOW ANOTHER. ONLY 27,000 PLUS MILES. I HAVE NEEDED TO HAVE THIS BATTERY JUMPED ONCE BEFORE AND THE PREVIOUS BATTERIES WERE JUMPED A TOTAL OF 5 TIMES. THE NHTSA WEBSITE HAS NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT BATTERY FAILURE FOR THIS MAKE/MODEL AND OTHER SUBARU OUTBACKS BUT NO RECALLS. WHY NOT? THIS IS ALSO A SAFETY ISSUE! I AM TOLD THAT "SOMETHING" IN THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS IS DRAWING DOWN THE BATTERY BUT IT CANNOT BE FOUND. THERE IS A FLAW SOMEWHERE. NOTHING WAS LEFT ON. SUBARU OF AMERICA HAS TO KNOW ABOUT THIS. REALLY

THE IGNITION KEY KEEPS GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO STOP THE VEHICLE TO PARK, THE KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED. THIS IS A WELL KNOWN PROBLEM AS FAR AS INTERNET REPORTS GO YET SUBARU HAS NOT BEEN CALLED OUT ON THIS. THIS MEANS THAT THE CUSTOMER MY BE REQUIRED TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION SHOULD SOME OTHER EMERGENCY ARISE.

FOR A FEW YEARS OFF AND ON WITH THE CAR STOPPED AND ATTEMPTING TO COMPLETE PARKING, THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN FROM THE ACC TO OFF POSITION OR RELEASE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. OF THE SEVERAL TIMES WE MENTIONED IT TO MULTIPLE DEALERSHIPS, WE WERE TOLD IT WAS OUR TECHNIQUE, NOT A PROBLEM WITH THE VEHICLE. FINALLY A DEALERSHIP REPORTED THE SHIFT ASSEMBLY WAS NOT RECOGNIZING THE CAR WAS IN PARK THUS WOULD NOT TURN THE KEY PAST THE ACCESSORY POSITION TO OFF OR RELEASE THE KEY. THIS OCCURRED WITH MULTIPLE KEYS AND DIFFERENT PEOPLE. THE SAFETY ISSUE IS THAT YOU CANNOT LOCK THE CAR WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. ALSO, IF YOU CANNOT REMOVE THE KEY AND LEAVE THE CAR, YOU ARE HANDING THE CAR OVER TO WHOMEVER WANTS TO STEAL IT. ONLY WITH LOTS OF TIME, STARTING THE CAR, PUTTING IT INTO ANOTHER GEAR, THEN BACK TO PARK AND TURNING IT OFF AGAIN, WITH LUCK THE ASSEMBLY RECOGNIZES YOU ARE IN PARK AND ALLOWS THE KEY TURN TO OFF AND ALLOWS THE KEY TO BE REMOVED. THE DEALERSHIP WHO IDENTIFIED THE DEFECTIVE SHIFT ASSEMBLY STATED THE ONLY FIX IS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY AT A COST OF $1100.00.

SOMETIMES THE KEY WON'T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN I TRY TO TURN THE CAR OFF (EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IS IN PARK). BASED ON WHAT I'VE READ, THIS IS A DEFECT WITH A SENSOR NOT RECOGNIZING THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. I THINK THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL FOR THIS PARTICULAR DEFECT. I BELIEVE THE SERVICE BULLETIN THAT ADDRESSES THIS DEFECT IS TSB NUMBER 16-112-18R.

THE KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE APPROX 50% OF THE TIME. KEY STAYS IN THE "ON" POSITION WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING. THE CAR HAS TO BE RESTARTED, SHIFTED INTO REVERSE, THEN FORWARD SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE THE KEY CAN SAFELY BE REMOVED. IF LEFT IN THE IGNITION THE BATTERY IS STILL ON, AND A CHILD COULD INADVERTENTLY START THE CAR. THIS IS CLEARLY IDENTIFIED AS A PROBLEM IN SUBARU SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER: 16-112-18R DATE: 03/15/18 REVISED: 11/06/18 THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL! THEY HAVE CHANGED THE PART TO PREVENT THIS IN NEWER MODELS. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR OVER A YEAR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH FAILED TO ALLOW THE REMOVAL OF THE KEY WHILE THE GEAR SHIFTER WAS IN THE PARK POSITION. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WITH THE GEAR SHIFTER IN THE DRIVE POSITION. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 24,000.

WE WERE DRIVING ON I5 NORTH THROUGH WASHINGTON ON A ROADTRIP (GOING ~65MPH), ABOUT TO ENTER A THUNDERSTORM, AND OUR MOONROOF UNEXPECTEDLY SHATTERED, MAKING AN EXPLOSION SOUND. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS HURT AND WE WERE ABLE TO GO TO A NEARBY FORD DEALERSHIP TO HELP US PATCH THE CAR SO WE COULD MAKE OUR 2+ HOUR DRIVE HOME, BUT IT WAS ABSOLUTELY TERRIFYING. AFTER FURTHER RESEARCH, WE THINK IT'S IN RELATION TO THE PRESSURE DIFFERENCE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE CAR. THERE WAS LITTLE GLASS IN THE CAR, MAKING IT SEEM AS IF THE EXPLOSION WAS COMING FROM INSIDE. NO ROCK OR DEBRIS HITTING THE CAR WAS NOTICED. HERE'S MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE ISSUE FROM AN ARTICLE LAST YEAR THAT REFERENCED NHTSA: HTTPS://WWW.KGW.COM/ARTICLE/NEWS/LOCAL/MY-SUNROOF-EXPLODED-GOVERNMENT-INVESTIGATING-EXPLODING-SUNROOFS/283-C529D7E5-F2C4-488E-AE34-96F781AD5466.

MY 2016 OUTBACK ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO HAD A DEAD BATTERY WHILE OUT ON A FAMILY TRIP TO ARKANSAS. JUST TOOK A BATTERY BUMP FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE AND WORKED FINE. THEN THIS FRIDAY IT RAN FINE FOR FIVE HOURS AWAY FROM HOME. SATURDAY MORNING RAN SEVERAL ERRANDS WITH IN A 60 MILE RADIUS SUNDAY MORNING STARTED THE CAR, MOVED IT TO A DIFFERENT LOCATION TO MAKE LOADING LUGGAGE EASIER THEN GOT IN TO GO AND THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. WAS SUPPLIED WITH A 2AMP HOUR CHARGER AND WAS TOLD THAT IT MIGHT TAKE AN HOURS FOR IT TO BUILD UP ENOUGH JUICE TO START. SAT FOR THIRTY MINUTES, HIT THE KEY AND IT FIRED OFF JUST FINE. DROVE BACK FOR FIVE HOURS STOPPING AND STARTING WITH NO ISSUES, RAN THE CAR BY OREILLY AUTO PARTS AND THEY TEST BATTERY AND SAID IT LOOKED FINE AND THAT IT WAS CHARGING GOOD. BACKED CAR IN GARAGE AND UNLOADED IT AND MONDAY MORNING, IT WAS DEAD, WHILE HOOKING MY CHARGER UP TO IT I NOTICED THAT THE BATTERY WAS WARM. STARTED UP JUST FINE WITH CHARGER ON BUST, NO ISSUES COMING TO WORK, KEEPING MY FINGERS CROSSED WHEN I GO OUT TO LUNCH.

MY 2016 OUTBACK'S HORN STOPPED WORKING. OVER A YEAR AGO, IT STARTED WORKING ONLY WHEN I WAS TURNING THE WHEEL, THEN EVENTUALLY IN JULY 2019, IT STOPPED WORKING ALL TOGETHER. IT IS MOSTLY AN ANNOYANCE, BUT I CAN'T USE IT TO WARN OTHERS. I CALLED AN TOLD MY DEALER'S SERVICE DEPT, BUT THEY NEVER GOT BACK TO ME. LATER ON, I TALKED TO THEM, BUT WAS TOLD THEY WOULD NOT DO ANYTHING BECAUSE MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY. THEY DO KNOW THE PART ON IT THAT "GOES". I THOUGHT THAT IF I GOT AN EXPENSIVE MILEAGE CHECK UP SERVICE THAT THEY WOULD FEEL BADLY THAT THEY KNOW THEY HAVE A "PART THAT GOES" AND FIX IT, BUT THEY DIDN'T OFFER TO DO ANYTHING. IT IS OBVIOUS THAT SINCE THEY KNOW EXACTLY WHAT PART "WENT" WITHOUT EVEN LOOKING AT THE CAR, THEY HAD A BADLY MADE PART. I HAVE A HISTORY OF DRIVING CARS UNTIL THEY ARE OVER 20 YEARS OLD AND CAN HIT 200 MILES ON A CAR AND I NEVER HAD A HARD JUST STOP WORKING AND DON'T THINK THIS SHOULD HAPPEN. I DO NOT WANT TO PAY SUBARU TO FIX THIS SINCE THEY KNOW THEIR PART GOES WRONG AND IS A SAFETY ISSUE. I AM NOT CONFIDENT THAT A NON-SUBARU MECHANIC WILL KNOW EXACTLY WHAT TO DO, THOUGH SINCE OUTSIDE MECHANICS WON'T BE FAMILIAR WITH THIS ISSUE.

IN 6 MONTHS, I GOT MORE THAN 10 TIMES OF LOW LEVEL ENGINE OIL LIGHT ON. FIRST TIME, IT WAS ON JAN. 2020, IT WAS 3,000 MILES FROM THE LAST OIL CHANGE. SO I CHANGED THE ENGINE OIL WITH NEW OIL. AFTER 2 MONTHS, I GOT LIGHT ON AGAIN. I REFILLED SOME OIL THEN GOT LIGHT ON AFTER ONE MONTH. I REFILLED SEVERAL TIMES BUT THE LIGHT IS ON LATER. THERE IS DROPPED OIL ON THE FLOOR AT ALL. I COULDN'T FIND WHERE THE OIL IS GONE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. AAA WAS CONTACTED AND THE VEHICLE WAS JUMP STARTED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED 4 TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO COMPETITION SUBARU OF SMITHTOWN LOCATED AT 601 MIDDLE COUNTRY RD, ST JAMES, NY 11780 WHERE THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED. THE FAILURE RECURRED AND THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE SAME DEALER AND THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED. THE FAILURE RECURRED AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED OF AN UNKNOWN VOLUNTARY MANUFACTURER RECALL TO REPLACE THE EXHAUST AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER HOWEVER, THE PART WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT WAS PROVIDED A LOANER VEHICLE. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED A WEEK LATER TO RETURN THE LOANER AND RETRIEVE HIS VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 13,270.

CAR DIES FREQUENTLY, KEEP REPLACING WITH NEW BATTERIES . MANY REPORTED LAWSUITS ONLINE FOR ELECTRICAL ISSUES IN SUBARU OUTBACK 2016. *TR

BATTERY RUNS OUT FOR NO APPARENT REASON, ESPECIALLY WHEN NOT DRIVEN FAR OR FREQUENTLY. FIRST BATTERY REPLACED BY DEALERSHIP BEFORE 2 YEARS, AFTER 3 INCIDENTS. SECOND BATTERY JUST BEGAN THE SAME PROBLEMS, IT IS ONLY 2 YEARS OLD. POSSIBLE THAT PROBLEMS HAVE BEEN MINIMAL BECAUSE PRE-COVID THE CAR WAS MOSTLY DRIVEN ON HIGHWAY, ALLOWING ALTERNATOR TO RE-CHARGE THE BATTERY NEARLY DAILY. BUT IF THE CAR SITS FOR 4 DAYS IT CAN RUN OUT OF BATTERY. THIS CAUSED A MISSED SURGERY APPOINTMENT. *TR

SPONTANEOUS CRACK DEVELOPED DOWN THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD IN MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK WHILE DRIVING. NO OBVIOUS REASON SUCH AS IMPACT WITH STONE OR ROCK WAS INVOLVED- LARGE CRACK JUST SUDDENLY APPEARED. HAVE READ MANY REPORTS OF OTHERS HAVING SAME ISSUE, AND SUBARU HAS HAD AT LEAST 3 CLASS ACTION LAWSUITS FILED AGAINST THEM FOR THIS EXACT ISSUE. *TR

AFTER APPROX. TWO WEEKS OF INACTIVITY, BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD. REQUIRED A JUMP START. TOOK TO AUTO SHOP; BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR BOTH TESTED AS "GOOD". CAR STARTED NORMALLY DURING DAILY USE FOR SEVERAL DAYS. THEN, AFTER 7 DAYS OF INACTIVITY, BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD AGAIN. CAR STORED ON STREET PARKING. WEATHER TYPICAL FOR SPRING MONTHS IN WASHINGTON STATE (I.E. INTERMITTENT RAIN; TEMPS OF 40-60 DEGREES). ONLINE SEARCH REVEALS SEVERAL SITES WHERE NUMEROUS CUSTOMERS REPORT EXPERIENCING THE SAME FAULTY ELECTRICAL ISSUES. EXAMPLE: HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T58701_DS833514 OR HTTPS://WWW.TORQUENEWS.COM/1084/SUBARU-HIT-NEW-LAWSUIT-OVER-OUTBACK-WAGON-DEAD-BATTERY-ISSUE. *TR

KEY STICKS IN IGNITION WHEN PARKED AND TURNING OFF THE VEHICLE. KEY TURNS, BUT NOT TO THE POINT WHERE IT REACHES THE POSITION OF REMOVAL. IT OFTEN TAKES SEVERAL STARTS AND TURN OFF'S TO ACHIEVE REMOVAL OF THE KEY. OFTEN REQUIRES VERY FIRM FORCES OF THE SHIFT LEVER IN THE PARK POSITION TO ACHIEVE RELEASE OF THE KEY. *TR

THIS IS THE 2ND WINDOW THAT HAS HAD TO BE REPLACED IN 2 1/2 YEARS. IT APPEARED TO CRACK SPONTANEOUSLY. *TR

HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY. WHEN YOU PULL INTO A PARKING SPOT AND PUT THE CAR IN PARK, THE KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY OFF AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. SUBARU DEALER DIAGNOSED IT AS 'FAULTY SHIFTER ASSEMBLY'. THIS WOULD BE FROM THE MANUFACTURER AS NO WORK HAS BEEN DONE IN THOSE AREAS OF THE CAR SINCE PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM SUBARU DEALERSHIP IN 2016. CAUSES THE KEY TO BECOME STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND UNABLE TO REMOVE WHEN PUT IN PARK. *TR

THE BATTERY OF THE VEHICLE(SUBARU OUTBACK 2016 3.6 R) FAILED SEVERAL TIMES. THE BATTERY DRAINS VERY QUICKLY. ESPECIALLY WHEN THE CAR RAN FOR SEVERAL SHORT TRIPS, THE BATTERY WAS SUDDENLY DEAD. THE BATTERY HAS BEEN DEAD 10 TIMES FROM 2016 TO 2020. *TR

KEY IS CONSTANTLY STUCK IN THE IGNITION DUE TO A FAULTY SENSOR NOT RECOGNIZING THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 70-75 MPH IN THE RAIN, THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY ACCELERATED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO REMEMBER WHAT WAS DONE TO SLOW AND STOP THE VEHICLE. THE LOCAL DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

WHILE SITTING STILL AT A RED LIGHT WITH MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND THE GEAR IN DRIVE, THE CAR WILL SUDDENLY LURCH FORWARD SEVERAL FEET. IT HAPPENS WITH SUCH FORCE THAT IT FEELS LIKE I WAS REAR-ENDED. THIS HAS HAPPENED OCCASIONALLY SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR IN JANUARY 2016. ALWAYS WHEN AT A FULL STOP ON FLAT AND SLOPED SURFACES. AT FIRST I THOUGHT IT ONLY HAPPENED WHEN THE AC WAS ON, BUT IT HAS HAPPENED WITH THE AC OFF. *TR

BATTERY DIED AFTER DRIVING 10 MILES AND PARKING FOR AN HOUR. COULDN'T MOVE SHIFT LEVER OR RELEASE ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE. SOMEONE FINALLY JUMPED THE CAR FOR ME Y AND I IMMEDIATELY BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY (BATTERY $151.19 AND JUMPER CABLES 26.99 AT PEPBOYS, DBPOWER JUMPSTARTER 74.59 AT AMAZON). 3 MONTHS LATER THE SAME THING HAPPENED AFTER BEING IN THE GARAGE OVERNIGHT. NO LIGHTS WERE LEFT ON OR ANY OBVIOUS SOURCE OF ELECTRICAL DRAIN. I COULD HAVE BEEN STRANDED SOMEWHERE. *TR

EXPERIENCED REPEATED DEAD BATTERY AFTER NOT USING THE CAR FOR A WEEK. FIRST I THOUGHT I WAS LEAVING LIGHTS ON OR A DOOR OPEN, SO I WOULD CALL ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE TO GET A JUMP, BUT THE PROBLEM STARTED GETTING WORSE. ON THE THIRD YEAR OF OWNERSHIP, AFTER ONE OR TWO DAYS OF NOT USING THE CAR, THE BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD. GETTING LATE TO WORK AND MEETINGS JUST BECAME UNSUSTAINABLE. THE CAR IS ALWAYS GARAGE KEPT. I ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO TURN OFF EVERYTHING. I PREVIOUSLY OWNED A TOYOTA COROLLA FROM 1998 AND FOR THE 12 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP ONLY EXPERIENCED A DEAD BATTERY ONCE. *TR

THE STARLINK INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM IN THE OUTBACK AFFECTS IPHONE MAPPING WHEN CONNECTED TO THE CAR'S USB SLOTS. THE MAPS GO HAYWIRE, ALWAYS POINTING THE WRONG DIRECCION, REROUTING CONSISTENTLY, RESULTING IN VERY DANGEROUS ROUTING. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN PRESENT SINCE DAY ONE. I HAD TO STOP CONNECTING THE IPHONE TO THE USB SLOTS WHEN DRIVING SO I CAN USE APPS LIKE GOOGLE MAPS AND APPLE MAPS. THIS IS A KNOW ISSUE WITH THE FIRST GENERATION OF STARLINK INFOTAINMENT. IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN I CONNECT THE IPHONE TO THE OUTBACK AND NOT TO ANY OTHER MODEL. *TR

CAR WAS PURCHASED BRAND NEW IN MARCH 2016. BATTERY DIED AUGUST 12, 2017 DURING A TRIP FROM HOUSTON, TEXAS TO NEBRASKA WHILE SITTING/EATING AT A SONIC DRIVE-IN IN EDMOND, OKLAHOMA. MANUFACTURER REIMBURSED ME FOR REPLACEMENT BATTERY COST WHICH I PURCHASED FROM WALMART WHILE ON AN OUT-OF-TOWN TRIP. SINCE IT WAS SATURDAY AFTERNOON THE CLOSEST DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT WAS CLOSED. THE REPLACED BATTERY THEN DIED IN FEBRUARY 2020 AND I REPLACED IT MYSELF WITH AN AGM STYLE BATTERY. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNDISCLOSED SPEED, THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT IMPACT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS PREVIOUSLY REPAIRED AT PEACOCK SUBARU HILTON HEAD (111 DRIVERS WAY SUITE A, HARDEEVILLE, SC 29927) FOR A CRACKED WINDSHIELD. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE SAME DEALER AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE WINDSHIELD NEEDED TO BE REPLACED HOWEVER, NO ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCE WAS PROVIDED. THE WINDSHIELD WAS NOT REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 53,688.

THE BATTERY ON OUR 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK KEEPS DISCHARGING AND CAR WON'T START. IT IS IN THE GARAGE. DROVE IT TO THE STORE YESTERDAY. BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY 4 MONTHS AGO, HAS HAPPENED 5 TIMES IN 6 MONTHS.

IRREGULAR BATTERY AND ELECTRIC ISSUES. WHEN CAR WAS 3-1/2 YEARS OLD WE DROVE 2 HIGHWAY HOURS FOR A MEETING. AFTER THE MEETING (WHILE STILL IN THE PARKING LOT) THE CAR WAS DEAD. WE JUMPED IT WERE DRIVING TOWARD A NEARBY SUBARU DEALERSHIP. THE CAR ACTED IRREGULAR ON THE HIGHWAY. IT HAD LIMITED POWER AND WAS LURCHING. WE LIMPED INTO THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP ABOUT 20 MILES AWAY. THEY COULDN'T FIND OR DIAGNOSE AN ISSUE. BUT, EVENTUALLY RE-CHARGED THE BATTERY AND IT HELD. AT AGE 4, THE CAR DIED IN MY DRIVEWAY. WE JUMPED IT AND THE CHARGE HELD. THE DRIVER SIDE CONTROLS CAN NO LONGER OPEN THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW.

SINCE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED, THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY DOES NOT REMAIN CHARGED IF THE CAR IS NOT STARTED FOR A PERIOD LONGER THAN TWO DAYS. THE VEHICLE IS ONLY FOUR YEARS OLD WITH 50,000 MILES AND THE BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES. THIS HAS CAUSED THE VEHICLE OWNER TO BE STRANDED WHILE AWAY FROM HOME, WHICH COULD HAVE LED TO UNSAFE CONDITIONS.

BATTERY FAILS REGULARLY CAUSING COMPLETE STOP. ELECTRIC SYSTEM TO WINDOWS, ESPECIALLY PASSENGER WINDOW, FAILS WITHOUT ANY KNOWN REASON

REPEATED DRAINED BATTERY FROM MULTIPLE SHORT DRIVES

ABOUT A YEAR AGO, MY OUTBACK OCCASIONALLY WOULD NOT START, ESPECIALLY AFTER I RETURNED FROM A TRIP. MY CAR'S BATTERY WAS DEAD. HOWEVER, MY WIFE'S CAR WOULD START RIGHT UP. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALER AND THEY INSTALLED A SOFTWARE UPDATE AND A NEW BATTERY. LESS THAN A YEAR LATER, THE CAR WOULD NOT START AND THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN. I HAD NOT DRIVEN THE CAR IN ABOUT 5 DAYS BECAUSE OF ANOTHER PROBLEM WITH THE IGNITION (I COULD NOT TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION). I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE DEALER. AFTER THE DEALER INSPECTED THE CAR, I WAS TOLD THEY COULD NOT FIND A PROBLEM AND THEY GAVE THE CAR A CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH. SOMETHING IS WRONG--IS IT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM? MY CAR WAS IN OUR DRIVEWAY.

PARKED ON A CITY STREET AND PRIVATE DRIVEWAY ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS, AND OCCURRING MORE FREQUENTLY, I WAS UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION; AND SOMETIMES THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN IN THE IGNITION. DEALER REPAIRED AT A COST OF $535.38 ON FEB 28, 2020. SINCE THE REPAIR, I HAVE DRIVEN THE CAR VERY INFREQUENTLY. ON APRIL, 13, 2020, I PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND IT WOULD NOT TURN. *TR

MY VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON A HIGHWAY WHEN A PEBBLE STRUCK THE WINDSHIELD AND A CHIP WAS FORMED ON 8/26/2016. THIS CHIP WAS IMMEDIATELY REPAIRED. THIS WAS ONLY MONTHS FROM PURCHASING A BRAND NEW 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK; FACTORY TO DEALER. THEN, WHILE PARKED, IT WAS NOTED THAT THE CHIP FORMED A SPREADING CRACK ON 11/13/2017. AT THIS POINT, THE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED WITH NEW, ORIGINAL SUBARU GLASS. *TR

BATTERY RUNS DOWN OFTEN. I'VE HAD THE BATTERY CHECKED MULTIPLE TIMES AND NO PROBLEM WITH THE ALTERNATOR EITHER. I KNOW IT WILL RUN DOWN DURING LOADING OR UNLOADING THAT LASTS MORE THAN 30 MINUTES, SO I MANAGE THAT SITUATION. BUT IT IS STARTING TO RUN DOWN MORE OFTEN WHILE PARKED. THIS HAS LEFT ME STRANDED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST 6 MONTHS.

INTERMITTENTLY UNABLE TO REMOVE KEYS FROM IGNITION, AS THOUGH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS NOT DETECTING THE CAR IS IN PARK. WORK-AROUND IS USUALLY TO PUMP BRAKES, MOVE FROM DRIVE BACK TO PARK, SOMETIMES RESTARTING IGNITION AND THEN TRYING AGAIN. SOMETIMES THIS REQUIRES SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. FOUND SERVICE BULLETIN #16-112-18R, BUT SUBARU IS NOT COVERING COSTS OF REPAIR IF VEHICLE IS OUT OF WARRANTY. BASED ON THE NUMBER OF VEHICLES IMPACTED, THIS SHOULD TRULY BE A RECALL.

MY WINDSHIELD SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE NEAR THE WIPER BLADE, WHILE DRIVING WITH A FACTORY WINDSHIELD. THE 6" CRACK FROM THE CORNER ALMOST IMMEDIATELY TURNED INTO A CRACK ACROSS THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD - AGAIN NO TRAUMA OR ROCKS. I WAS DRIVING STRAIGHT ON A HIGHWAY WITH NO POTHOLES OR ANYTHING. I HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED AND IT HAS AGAIN SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED WITH NO TRAUMA (NO ROCK OR BUG IMPACT OR OTHER IMPACTS/DAMAGES) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE BY THE WIPER BLADE. I BELIEVE THAT THE SUBARU WINDSHIELD AS WELL AS THE DEFROST SYSTEM ARE DEFECTIVE. THIS WILL BE MY THIRD WINDSHIELD IN UNDER 3 MONTHS. OTHER SUBARU OUTBACK OWNERS HAVE COMPLAINED ABOUT THIS AND SUBARU CONTINUES TO BLAME IT ON ROCKS. THE SECOND CRACK HAPPENED WHILE MY VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY IN THE DRIVEWAY!

TWICE SINCE NOVEMBER,'19 AND MOST RECENTLY ON 3/14/2020, WHEN STOPPED AT AN INTERSECTION, WITH FOOT ON BRAKE, THE ENGINE REVVED UP WILDLY. THEN, IN BOTH INCIDENTS I ATTEMPTED TO PUT CAR IN NEUTRAL. GEARSHIFT WOULD NOT MOVE. I HAD TO TURN ENGINE OFF. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPT I WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE CAR. I THOUGHT THE FIRST INCIDENT WAS A FLUKE. BUT AFTER YESTERDAY'S (MARCH 14 '20) INCIDENT, IN WHICH I NARROWLY AVOIDED A CRASH, I BELIEVE SUBARU AND, IF NEED BE, THE GOVERNMENT, SHOULD ADDRESS THIS SAFETY ISSUE. PLEASE DO NOT EXCUSE THESE INCIDENTS WITH "YOUR FOOT WAS ON THE ACCELERATOR AND BRAKE AT THE SAME TIME. THIS NOT WHAT HAPPENED.

IN FEBRUARY 2019 I HAD TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD IN MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK BECAUSE OF A CRACK THAT STARTED FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE EDGE FROM A VERY TINY CHIP, AND PAID ABOUT $950 (OEM EQUIPMENT AND DUE TO THE EYESIGHT SYSTEM CALIBRATION REQUIRED). ON FEBRUARY 29, 2020, I DISCOVERED A CRACK IN THE NEW WINDSHIELD, IN A SIMILAR PLACE (PASSENGER SIDE, TINY CHIP AT THE EVERY EDGE (BLACK PART OF WINDSHIELD), THAT THEN EXTENDED HALF WAY ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. I COULD NOT REMEMBER ANYTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD TO CAUSE THE TINY CHIP, AND IT REALLY WAS TINY AND VERY SHALLOW. THE CAR HAD BEEN PARKED ALL DAY IN A SAFE, SECURE AREA. THE CRACK WAS NOT THERE IN THE MORNING WHEN I PARKED THE CAR, BUT WAS THERE BY THE END OF THE DAY. PHOTO ATTACHED. IT DOES NOT SEEM REASONABLE TO HAVE TO REPLACE A WINDSHIELD ANNUALLY! SUBARU HAS A PROBLEM WITH THEIR WINDSHIELDS!

I HAD PURCHASED MY CAR IN FEB 2016. WE HAD TO HAVE WINDSHIELD REPLACED 90 DAYS LATER. AND THEY TOLD ME " THE GLASS IS THINNER DUE TO EYE SIGHT. I'VE HAD WIND SHIELD REPLACED 2 OTHER TIMES SINCE THEN. WE WERE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY,AND IT WAS STRUCK BY ROCKS. I WENT TO SUBARU AND THEY STATED THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THEIR GLASS. AND EACH TIME IT WAS REPLACED. 1 AT THEIR COST AND 2 AT MIND. ALL OF THE PAPERS WORK I CAN GET FROM INS. COMPANY

WINDSHIELD CRACKED IN L SHAPE . ON DAY AFTER SNOW FALL. WHEN CLEARED THERE WAS THE CRACK

HOOD UNLATCHES UNEXPECTEDLY. THIS HAS PROBABLY OCCURED A HALF DOZED TIMES OR SO IN THE LAST YEAR. JUST YESTERDAY DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE IT UNLATCHED. FORTUNATELY THE SAFETY LATCH DIDN'T RELEASE, BUT THAT COULD CERTAINLY HAPPEN ESPECIALLY WITH THE WIND PRESSURE FROM DRIVING AT INTERSTATE SPEEDS.

DIFFICULTY TURNING THE CARS IGNITION INTO THE OFF POSITION TO REMOVE KEY. KEY STOCKS IN IGNITION AND CAR STAYS TURNED ON IN ACCESSORY MODE. OFTEN TAKES UP TO 6 TIMES RESTARTING AND STOPPING TO GET KEY TO RELEASE. DEALER CLAIMS IT IS THE COMPUTER RELAY THAT ISN'T RECOGNIZING THAT THE CAR HAS BEEN PUT INTO PARK. THIS IS WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED.... THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE APPROXIMATELY MAY OF 2019 TO CURRENT. AT FIRST IT WAS ONLY OCCASIONALLY BUT REACHED THE POINT WHERE IT HAPPENED 9 TIMES OUT OF 10.

I HAVE A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK, WHICH I'VE OWNED SINCE NEW (09/15/2015). I'VE HAD TO REPLACE 8 WINDSHIELD SO FAR, SOMETIMES WITHIN 3 MONTHS, OR EVEN 2 DAYS APART. I DRIVE AROUND SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA (NOT STATISTICALLY HIGHER RISK FOR WINDSHIELD DAMAGE) THIS CONSTANT ISSUE WITH THE WINDSHIELD AFFECTS THE SAFETY OF THE CAR IN CASE OF FOREIGN OBJECT IMPACT OR SPONTANEOUS CRACKING, BECAUSE OF REDUCED VISIBILITY AND COMPROMISED STRUCTURAL/IMPACT PROTECTION

ONCE PARKING THE VEHICLE AND PLACING IT IN PARK, THE KEY STAYS LOCKED IN THE IGNITION. THIS ISN'T RELATED TO THE STEERING WHEEL BEING LOCKED IN PLACE, THE KEY IS STUCK. SHIFTING IN/OUT OF PARK NEEDS TO HAPPEN MULTIPLE TIMES. LOOKING INTO THIS ONLINE, THERE ARE MULTIPLE REPORTS OF THIS HAPPENING. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE WE ARE UNABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR WITH OUR KIDS BECAUSE THE KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A FRACTURE WAS EVIDENT ON THE WINDSHIELD BY THE REAR VIEW MIRROR IN THE MIDDLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRACTURE WAS HORIZONTAL OF WHERE THE REARVIEW MIRROR WAS ATTACHED. MICHAEL'S SUBARU OF BELLEVUE (15150 SE EASTGATE WAY, BELLEVUE, WA 98007 (425) 641-2002) OFFERED FOR THE CONTACT TO HAVE THE VEHICLE TAKEN TO DEALER FOR A DIAGNOSIS AND INSPECTION. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED NOR INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INSURANCE COMPANY WOULD BE MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE IF THE MANUFACTURER FAILED TO ASSIST IN HAVING THE VEHICLE REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

CRACK IN WINDSHIELD DIRECTLY BEHIND THE REARVIEW MIRROR HORIZONTALLY AND VERTICALLY WITH NO VISIBLE SIGNS OF IMPACT, FOUND ONE GETTING INTO THE CAR WHICH WAS IN OUR GARAGE

MY OUTBACK HAS AROUND 42,000 MILES ON IT. I AM HAVING TROUBLE GETTING THE KEY TO COME OUT OF THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING IT IN PARK. SO FAR ABOUT HALF THE TIME I TURN THE CAR OFF I NEED TO SHIFT IT INTO REVERSE AND THEN JAM IT BACK INTO PARK IN ORDER FOR IT TO UNLOCK THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION.

CAN NOT REMOVE KEY WHEN IN PARK!! LEAVES ME STRANDED..HAVE TO KEEP TRYING VARIOUS METHODS TO TURN CAR OFF AND REMOVE KEY!! THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL.. HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS AS WELL ON LINE.

THE CVT TRANSMISSION FAILED AT 79K MILES AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS CAUSING THE CAR TO VIOLENTLY STALL. WE BARELY AVOIDED HITTING THE CARS AROUND US TRYING TO PULL OVER. LUCKILY THERE WAS NO CAR TO REAR END US. WE WERE VERY LUCKY THE TRAFFIC WAS LIGHT. THESE TRANSMISSIONS ARE DEFECTIVE AND WHEN THEY FAIL, THEY FAIL IN A SPECTACULAR MANNER CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO VIOLENTLY JERK AND STALL, A TRAUMATIC EVENT EQUIVALENT TO JUMPING ON THE BREAKS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND WILL CAUSE PEOPLE TO DIE IN CRASHES. SUBARU NEEDS TO RECALL EVERY SINGLE CVT AND STOP PUTTING THEM IN NEW CARS. EXTENDING THE WARRANTY IS INSUFFICIENT.

CRACKED WINDSHIELD. STARTING @ BOTTOM CENTER UP 8" THEN 6" TO RIGHT.

NUMEROUS WINDSHIELD CRACKS, SEEMS TO OCCUR SPONTANEOUSLY.

IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK EVERYTIME AND I HAVE TO JAM IT INTO PARK TO GE IT OUT

WHEN PUTTING AUTO INTO PARK, KEY WILL NOT TURN FAR ENOUGH TO ALLOW KEY TO COME OUT. HAVE TO RESTART CAR , SHIFT INTO OTHER GEARS AND RETURN TO PARK UNTIL THE KEY WILL COME OUT. I HAVE ANOTHER EXACT YEAR AND MODEL VEHICLE WHICH HAD THE SAME ISSUE AND IT WAS REPAIRED ABOUT 1 1/2 YEARS AGO. VEHICLE STATIONARY.

MY 2016 OUTBACK WILL HAVE A "GHOST SLIDE" WHEN ON ICE. IT SEEMS TO BE WORSE WHEN THE ROADS ARE ONLY PARTIALLY ICY. THE BACK END FEELS LIKE IT WILL SLIP OUT AND THE CAR WILL FEEL LIKE IT IS LOSING CONTROL. THIS IS MY 3RD SUBARU AND THE ONLY ONE WE HAVE HAD ISSUES WITH. I HAVE HAD IT INTO A SHOP (NOT A SUBARU DEALER) AND THEY CANNOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT. I CALLED SUBARU AND THEY TOLD ME I HAVE ICE BUILD UP! THAT IS NOT IT! I CALLED THEM AGAIN THIS WEEK AND THEY SAID THEY DON'T HAVE A RECALL NOTICE FOR MY ISSUE. THIS CAR IS GREAT FOR SAFETY AND DRIVING 95% OF THE TIME SO IT IS DANGEROUS TO HIT A PATCH OF ICE AND HAVE IT SLIDE. IT IS REALLY BAD WHEN THEY ROADS HAVE STARTED TO MELT AND YOU HAVE PARTIAL PAVEMENT AND PARTIAL ICE. I PUT THE DATE DOWN OF THE LAST OCCURRENCE BUT IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR 4 WINTERS.

MY CAR HAS 55,000 MILES. RECENTLY, I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION. I AM ABLE TO STOP THE ENGINE BUT I AM NOT ABLE TO TURN OFF ALL THE ELECTRONICS. I HAVE TO STOP AND START, BACK UP OR PULL FORWARD (WHICH I AM NOT ALWAYS ABLE TO DO) THE CAR A NUMBER OF TIMES TO GET THE KEY TO COME OUT. MY DAUGHTER ALSO HAS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. SHE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AT ABOUT THE SAME MILEAGE, HAD THE IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED FOR $600.00 AND IS NOW HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN 1 YEAR LATER. THIS PROBLEM IS COMMON ENOUGH THAT SUBARU PUT A TECHNICAL REPAIR BULLETIN OUT ON IT TSB #16-12-18R BUT HAS NOT DONE A RECALL.

I CANNOT TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION TO RELEASE THE KEY AFTER I'VE PUT THE CAR IN PARK THE FIRST TIME. IT CAN TAKE UP TO SEVERAL MINUTES OF ATTEMPTS TO TURN THE KEY TO VARIOUS POINT (LIGHTS ON/ACCESSORIES ON/ENGINE ON), DIFFERENT BRAKE POSITIONS, SHIFTING TO OTHER GEARS AND BACK TO PARK. THIS SEEMS TO HAPPEN MORE FREQUENTLY IN THE WINTER. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SEVERAL MONTHS AT A TIME SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW IN 2016.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEY WOULD NOT RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION. THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE TURNED ON AN OFF MULTIPLE TIMES IN ORDER FOR THE KEY TO RELEASE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO STUCKEY SUBARU (500 BROAD ST, HOLLIDAYSBURG, PA 16648, (814) 695-9862) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 50,017. CONSUMER STATES THAT THEY TOOK VEHICLE TO A LOCAL REPAIRMAN. THE TUMBLE AND SWITCH WERE REPLACED. CONSUMER EXPERIENCED ISSUE AGAIN A WEEK LATER AND TOOK VEHICLE TO STUCKEY SUBARU (HOLLIDAYSBURG, PA). THEY REPLACED THE GEAR SHIFT LEVER. CONSUMER STATES THAT ISSUE HAS BEEN RESOLVED. *DL

I CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND TURNING IT OFF (IT WON'T TURN ALL THE WAY TO THE OFF POSITION). RESTARTING THE CAR AND TURNING IT OFF AGAIN FREQUENTLY DOESN'T HELP.

FRONT RIGHT CV JOINT STARTED MAKING A CLICKING SOUND THAT BECAME EXTREMELY BAD AFTER ONE MONTH. WE WERE TOLD TO REPLACE IMMEDIATELY DUE TO SAFETY HAZARD. HAD TO REPLACE THE CV AXEL COSTING OVER $600. GOT IT BACK FROM THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP, JUST TO BE TOLD THE LEFT ONE IS NOW GOING OUT AND WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED AS WELL.

I HAVE NOTICED A SMALL CRACK IN THE LOWER CORNER OF THE WINDSHIELD AND I HAVE NOT BEEN WITH A ROCK OR ANY OBJECTS. I PURCHASED THE SUV THE FEBRUARY OF 2019 AND IT APPEARED TO HAVE A NEW DEALERSHIP WINDSHIELD. I HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS ONLINE INCLUDING LAWSUITS REGARDING SUBARU WINDSHIELDS THAT SPONTANEOUSLY CRACK. THE WINDSHIELDS FROM SUBARU SEEM TO BE VERY FRAGILE AND I HAVE CONCERNS OF A DEFECT.

DRIVING TO WORK ON THE HIGHWAY AND THE WINDSHIELD JUST POPPED AND CRACKED. LITTLE SHARDS OF GLASS FLEW ONTO THE DASHBOARD. HAPPENED UNDER THE DRIVERS SIDE WIPER.

JUNE 2019 - WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT ANY APPARENT IMPACT FROM ANYTHING, DRIVING BY MYSELF. REPLACED WINDSHIELD, AND WITHIN TWO WEEKS, THE SAME THING HAPPENED - WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT ANY APPARENT IMPACT FROM ANYTHING. VEHICLE WAS MOVING IN BOTH INSTANCES. OCCURRED ON HIGHWAY DRIVING. IN BOTH INSTANCES, CRACK STARTED SMALL AND WENT HORIZONTALLY ACROSS THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD IMPAIRING MY VISION AND CAUSING A SAFETY ISSUE.

REPEATED AND UNPREDICTABLE BATTERY FAILURE WITH NO APPARENT CAUSE, I.E. DOME LIGHTS OR OTHER ACCESSORIES NOT POWERED "ON"., DOORS OR REAR CARGO HATCH NOT OPEN. DEALER ANALYSIS OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FOUND NO ISSUES HOWEVER REPLACED BATTERY. LAST OCCURRENCE 10/19/2019 IN THE HOME GARAGE.FOR RELIABILITY IT WAS NECESSARY TO PURCHASE A PORTABLE BOOSTER CHARGER COSTING $100.00. THERE HAS BEEN 8 SUCH OCCURRENCES SINCE THE PURCHASE (NEW) IN 2016. PLEASE ADVISE.

NOTICING WHEN I PARK MY CAR THE KEY WON'T RELEASE FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHEN CAR LEVER IS SET IN "P" POSITION. AS I PUSH IN AND TURN THE KEY FROM START TO LOCK THE KEY WILL STAY ACC POSITION WON'T GO INTO LOCK.

ON 10/10/2019 WE NOTICED A LONG CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD OF THIS VEHICLE FOR NO CAUSE. WE JUST GOT INTO THE CAR AND NOTICED. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED SINCE WE BOUGHT OUR 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK IN JUNE 2016. THE FIRST TWO TIMES (LAST ONE REPAIRED IN MARCH 2019) THE CRACK STARTED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD AS NUMEROUS PEOPLE HAVE REPORTED. INSURANCE WILL NOT PAY IN NEW MEXICO, SO WE HAVE TO KEEP REPLACING AT OVER $300 A TIME. THIS IS CLEARLY A FAULT IN THE DESIGN OR QUALITY OF THE GLASS. WE RESPECTFULLY REQUEST THAT YOU INVESTIGATE THIS FOR US AND MANY OF THE OWNERS OF THESE VEHICLES. IT IS UNACCEPTABLE TO HAVE TO KEEP PAYING THE FULL PRICE FOR NEW WINDSHIELDS. SUBARU NEEDS TO ADMIT A FAULT IN DESIGN AND PROVIDE CONSUMERS WITH WINDSHIELDS AT NO COST - PREFERABLY DESIGN ONE THAT WILL NOT CRACK. THIS IS THE FIRST VEHICLE IN 35 YEARS THAT HAS EVER CRACKED. THANK YOU FOR INVESTIGATING THIS ISSUE.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT ANY OBJECT IMPACT. CRACK STARTED AT THE BOTTOM PASSENGER SIDE. SAME LOCATION AS LISTED IN A CLASS ACTION SUIT FOR 2015 AND EARLY MODEL 2016 CARS. VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS AT ABOUT 35MPH WHEN I HEARD THE NOISE. I DID NOT NOTICE THE CRACK UNTIL LATER IN THE DAY, AS IT WAS VERY LOW ON THE WINDSCREEN AND WAS NOT VISIBLE FROM THE DRIVERS POSITION IN THE CAR. THE CRACK HAS SINCE SPREAD ACROSS AND UP THE WINDSCREEN. SUBARU OF AMERICA HAS DENIED MY REQUEST FOR A REPAIR AND I WILL BE DOING SO AT MY OWN EXPENSE LATER TODAY.

I RECEIVED A SMALL CHIP FROM A ROCK THAT THEN SPREAD TO ABOUT AN 8 INCH CRACK. IT'S BEEN THAT WAY WITH NO CHANGE FOR MONTHS. THEN THIS MORNING WE DROPPED TO 26 DEGREES AND WHEN I TURNED ON THE DEFROSTER FOR THE WINDSHIELD THE CRACK SHOT ACROSS THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD. I HADN'T EVEN MOVED THE CAR YET. I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY SAFELITE THAT THIS WINDSHIELD WAS FAULTY AND SUBARU SHOULD REPLACE IT UNDER WARRANTY BUT THE SUBARU HERE IN MISSOULA, MT IS REFUSING TO DO SO. I SEE THAT CA HAD THE SAME ISSUE AND THEY SUED SUBARU. DO I HAVE TO DO THAT TOO TO GET THEM TO HELP ME?

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. SENSOR IN STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. MUST "SLAM" THE SHIFTER INTO PARK IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE KEY.

ABOUT ONCE A WEEK FOR AT LEAST THE PAST YEAR, THE STARLINK SCREEN FREEZES IN EITHER A BLANK SCREEN OR THE SCREEN GIVING CHOICES BETWEEN CD, FM, ETC. MUSIC WILL PLAY BUT NONE OF THE BUTTONS WILL WORK. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT IF I HOLD DOWN THE ON/OFF BUTTON FOR ABOUT 15 SECONDS OR SO, IT WILL BEEP AND GO BACK TO NORMAL. IT HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS FIRST TURNED ON AND IS STATIONARY.

THE FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW DOES NOT ALWAYS FULLY CLOSE. SOMETIMES WHEN I'M CLOSING IT, THE WINDOW GOES ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP AND THEN GOES DOWN ABOUT HALFWAY AND STAYS THERE. THE ONLY WAY I AM ABLE TO GET IT MOSTLY CLOSED IS WHEN I AM AT A STOP, I HAVE ONE HAND ON THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND THE OTHER ON THE WINDOW CLOSE BUTTON. I HOLD DOWN THE CLOSE BUTTON UNTIL THE WINDOW IS ALMOST ALL OF THE WAY UP AND THEN HIT THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON SO THAT THE WINDOW REMAINS SHUT MOST OF THE WAY. BY THE TIME I RESTART THE CAR, I UNLOCK THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND AM ABLE TO CLOSE THE WINDOW NORMALLY. THE WINDOW NOT CLOSING OCCURS AT A STOP OR WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING.

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION UPON PARKING THE CAR. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY (IN PARKING POSITION).

I REGULARLY CANNOT REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHILE IN PARK. THE IGNITION DOES NOT SEEM TO RECOGNIZE THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK, SO I HAVE TO RESTART CAR, SHIFT DO DRIVE, RESHIFT TO PARK AND TRY TO REMOVE KEY MULTIPLE TIMES. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING CONSISTENTLY AND IS WORST WHEN PARKED ON A HILL.

DRIVING AT AROUND 40 MILES PER HOUR AND SUDDENLY LOST CONTROL OF THE STEERING WHEEL. THE STEERING WHEEL BECAME VERY LOOSE AND UNRESPONSIVE. IT WAS VERY DANGEROUS. TOOK TO DEALERSHIP RIGHT AWAY AND THEY COULDN'T FIGURE OUT ANYTHING.

ABOUT A WEEK A GO I NOTICED A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. I CAN NOT ATTRIBUTE IT TO A ROCK OUR OTHER ROAD DEBRIS. CLOSE INSPECTION SHOWS A VERY SMALL CHIP DIRECTLY UNDER THE WIPER BLADE, WHICH WOULD PROTECT THE WINDSHIELD FROM A ROCK ETC. THE CRACK EXTENDS VERTICALLY DOWN UNDER THE PLASTIC TRIM AND UP ALMOST TO THE WIPER BLADE SWEEP LIMIT. THIS IS THE SECOND WINDSHIELD IN MY VEHICLE. IN 2017 I THOUGHT I GET HIT BY A ROCK. A LARGE CHIP APPEARED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE AND A CRACK IMMEDIATELY APPEARED. I PAID FOR A REPAIR BY THE DEALER. IT WAS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY OR INSURANCE. I AM NOW WONDERING IF THE FIRST WINDSHIELD WAS HIT BY A ROCK OR NOT. REGARDLESS, I CANT BELIEVE I WILL BE ON THIRD WINDSHIELD IN A VEHICLE I HAVE NOT YET HAD TO REPLACE THE BRAKE PADS.

WHILE STATIONARY, MY DAUGHTER ATTEMPTED TO EXIT THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. DISCOVERED THAT THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE DOOR CHILD SAFETY LOCK SWITCH ON THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE DOOR WAS ENGAGED. TRIED TO DISENGAGE THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK; HOWEVER, THE SWITCH WAS SEIZED IN THE ENGAGED POSITION. CANNOT OPEN THE DOOR FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. TOOK IT TO THE ONLY SUBARU DEALER IN HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA. THOUGH THE VEHICLE HAD LESS THAN 36,000 MILES AND SHOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, THEY SAID IT WAS A CORROSION ISSUE CAUSED BY LACK OF USE; THEREFORE, IT WAS NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY. WE HAVE NEVER USED THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK.

KEY INTERMITTENTLY DOES NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION WHEN PARKED. THIS IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ISSUED BY SUBARU. THIS CAN BE A SAFETY ISSUE. WHY HAS A RECALL NOT BEEN ISSUED FOR THIS?

MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION, WHILE IN PARK. STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT LOCK. TOOK TO THE DEALER. I KNOW THIS IS AN ISSUE WITH SOME OF THE FORRESTERS AND I LOOKED ONLINE APPARENTLY OTHER 2016 & 2017 MODEL SUBARUS HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUE. I SEE A SERVICE BULLETIN 16 112 18R, BUT IT DOES NOT COVER MY VEHICLE.

CAR IS IN PARK AND ENGINE IS OFF AND CAN NOT GET KEY OUT OF IGNITION. I THEN HAVE TO START CAR AND MOVE VEHICLE AND HOPES THAT WHEN I STOP CAR AGAIN I CAN GET THE KEY OUT. THIS IS A SAFEY ISSUE AS I CAN NOT LEAVE CAR WITH KEY IN IGNITION IN PUBLIC PLACE. IF I DO AT THE HOUSE, THEN THE CAR THEN DRAINS THE BATTERY AND CAR DIES.CAR IS ONLY 3 YEAR OLD!!! I'M NOT TO HAPPY WITH THIS. NEEDS TO BE FIX, THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL!!!!! BUT I DON'T SEE ONE YET! I READ OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.

SUBARU OUTBACK 2016 4DR 2.5I - VEHICLE BEGAN MAKING LOUD NOISE WHEN DRIVING IN THE HIGHWAY. NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE OF VEHICLE. TOOK TO SUBARU DEALER IN CHANDLER AZ AND DEALER CHANGED RIGHT-REAR WHEEL HUB BEARING. VEHICLE ONLY HAS 67 K MILES.

WOBBLING AND SHAKING OCCURS WHEN THE CAR IS IN MOTION (WHEN ACCELERATING). HAPPENS ON STREET AND ON HIGHWAY. SERVICE ADVISOR RECOMMENDED TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENT. PLEASE SEE ATTACHED EXTENDED WARRANTY OFFER FROM THE MANUFACTURER AS A RESULT OF PREVIOUS COMPLAINTS.

ON MY WAY TO WORK I HEARD A LOUD POP! LIKE A ROCK HIT MY WINDSHIELD. NEVER SAW A PIT OR ANY EVIDENCE. PULLED OUT OF THE GARAGE THERE WAS A CRACK COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF PASSENGER SIDE UP THE WINDOW. NOW THE CRACK HAS SPREAD OUT LIKE NOTHING I HAVE EVER SEEN.

I'VE ONLY RECENTLY LEARNED OF THE SPONTANEOUS WINDSHIELD CRACKING ISSUE THAT IS IN LITIGATION. THIS HAPPENED TO ME. I WAS STOPPED, WAITING AT A LIGHT NEAR THE INTERSECTION OF WASHINGTON AND THE ENTRANCE TO I-70 IN DENVER. SUDDENLY, THE WINDSHIELD LOUDLY POPPED AND A LARGE CRACK APPEARED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WHICH HAS SINCE PROGRESSED IN MANY DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS. I SPOKE TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. I'VE NOT YET HAD IT REPLACED AS I'D LEARNED OF THIS LAWSUIT, BUT NO DEFINITIVE PROGRESS HAS BEEN MADE, I'M REPORTING IT HERE. I DO NOT HAVE A PICTURE, BUT WILL UPDATE THIS POST LATER, IF POSSIBLE.

DEAD BATTERY AT 38,000 MILES. NO INDICATOR LIGHTS OF ANY EXISTING PROBLEM. LEFT STRANDED AND OUT $150 FOR NEW BATTERY. SAW MANY FORUMS RELATED TO THIS SAME PROBLEM. SUBARU OWES IT TO THE CAR OWNERS TO ADMIT AND FIX AND NO CHARGE THIS PROBLEM. DROVE AT LUNCH TIME AND WHEN I WAS RETURNING BACK TO WORK IT WOULD NOT START. CAR WAS PARKED IN PARKING LOT. NOTHING LEFT ON. WHEN TURNING IGNITION ON THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS ALL CAME ON AS WELL AS RADIO AND WINDOWS WORKED UP AND DOWN BUT NO START. HAD CO-WORKER COME AND JUMP START AND IT STARTED RIGHT AWAY.

INTERMITTENT PROBLEM WHERE THE KEY COULD NOT BE REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION MAKING IT UNSAFE TO LEAVE THE CAR IN A PUBLIC AREA. (THE DOOR CANNOT BE LOCKED WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION). REQUIRED REPLACEMENT OF THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. THE REPAIR NOTES INDICATED THERE IS A RELATED TSB, SO THE DEFECT IS KNOWN, BUT NO RECALLS HAVE BEEN ISSUED.

SOMETIMES THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION WHEN PUT IN PARK. FREEZES UP. WON'T ALLOW POWER LIFT GATE TO OPEN EITHER. SEEMS TO BE RELATED TO TSB 16 112 18R, WHICH IN PRACTICE SEEMS DANGEROUS, AS HAVING TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION EVEN FOR A SHORT AMOUNT OF TIME WITH KIDS IS RISKY. THIS NEEDS TO BE A SAFETY RECALL.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN PUT INTO PARK AND CAN'T TAKE KEY OUT OF IGNITION AFTER TURNING CAR OFF.

WHEN I STOP MY 2016 OUTBACK AFTER DRIVING IT MY KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. IT DOES THIS INTERMITTENTLY AND IS ACTING LIKE I AM NOT PUTTING THE CAR ALL THE WAY IN PARK. I AM FORCED TO LEAVE MY KEY IN THE IGNITION AT TIMES AND THE CAR WILL BE VERY EASY TO STEAL. AFTER READING THE SUBARU FORUMS IT APPEARS TO BE THE SHIFTER LINKAGE FAILING AND NOT GOING INTO PARK ALL THE WAY. SOME DEALERS STARTED TO REPLACE THE KEY SWITCH AT FIRST THEN THEY REALIZED IT WAS THE SHIFTER LINKAGE ASSEMBLY ITSELF. IT SEEMS TO NEED REPLACING AND CAN'T BE ADJUSTED. SUBARU KNOWS ABOUT THIS ISSUE AS I JUST TALKED TO SUBARU OF AMERICA TO SEE IF THEY HAVE RECALLED IT YET.

DRIVER IS UNABLE TO TURN KEY BACK TO THE LOCK POSITION AND REMOVE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS STATIONARY. CAR (SUBARU OUTBACK 2016) WAS PLACED IN PARK PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING TO TURN OFF THE ENGINE. DRIVER MUST FORCEFULLY MOVE STICK TO PARKED POSITION, FIRMLY PUSH KEY IN, AND TURN SWIFTLY TO REMOVE KEY. DRIVER MAY HAVE TO ATTEMPT THIS MANEUVER FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE SUCCESSFULLY REMOVING KEY. FAULTY COMPONENT IS UNKNOWN BUT IS OFTEN THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH BASED ON TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 16-112-18R. AT TIME OF WRITING THIS COMPLAINT, THE DRIVER HAS EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE AT LEAST 10 TIMES OVER THE COURSE OF 2 WEEKS.

UNABLE TO REMOVE IGNITION KEY FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. VEHICLE IS PUT INTO PARK, KEY IS TURNED OFF, KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY AND STOPS AT THE ACCESSORY POINT. HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR THE PAST MONTH, SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE. MOVE THE SHIFTER BACK AND FORTH FROM PARK INTO GEAR AND BACK INTO PARK UNTIL THE KEY RELEASES.

ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS WHILE PARKED FOR ONLY A FEW HOURS. THE BATTERY VOLTAGE HAS DROPPED TO A LEVEL THAT REQUIRED THE VEHICLE TO BE JUMP STARTED. THE VEHICLE HAS NO AFTERMARKET DEVICES.

THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT BATTERY FOR THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN INSUFFICIENT TO MEET THE DEMANDS THAT THE "BELLS AND WHISTLES" PUT ON THE RESERVE POWER IN THE BATTERY. AS SUCH, THIS PUTS THE DRIVER AT RISK THAT THE VEHICLE WILL NOT START THE VEHICLE. EITHER STANDARDS SHOULD BE ESTABLISHED FOR RESERVE BATTERY CAPACITY, BASED ON ELECTRICAL DEMAND, OR BETTER INDICATION PROVIDED ON AVAILABLE CHARGE. I.E., MUCH LIKE THAT PROVIDED BY OTHER DEVICES THAT HAVE AN INDICATION OF REMAINING BATTERY CHARGE. THIS VULNERABILITY WAS SHARED WITH SUBARU SOON AFTER I PURCHASED THE CAR, NEW, AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BOTH SUBARU AND THEIR DEALERSHIP ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS. I SHOULD HAVE UPGRADED THE ORIGINAL BATTERY ON MY OWN FROM THE START, BUT ONLY BECAME AWARE OF THE DEFICIENCY OF THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT UNTIL RECENTLY. THE FACT THAT SUBARU WOULD ALLOW ANY OPERATOR TO DRIVE ONE OF THEIR CARS UNDER THESE CIRCUMSTANCES IS REPREHENSIBLE, LET ALONE SOMEONE THAT THEY SAY IS A "VALUED AND APPRECIATED CUSTOMER."

I CANNOT REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION OR OPEN THE REAR HATCH WHEN IN PARK. THE NEUTRAL SAFETY INTERLOCK SYSTEM DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK. THE FRONT CONSOLE SHOWS THE CAR IN PARK AND THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK. HOWEVER THE KEY IS STUCK. I HAVE TO MOVE THE SELECTOR IN AND OUT OF PARK USING RANDOM PATTERNS BEFORE THE SENSOR/SWITCH RECOGNIZES THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. STARTED AT 40K MILES. MY SON FELT THAT HE HAD TO RESTART THE CAR TO CLEAR THE ISSUE AND DRAINED THE BATTERY, LEAVING HIM STRANDED.

I HAVING PROBLEM GETTING MY KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION FROM MY SUBURU OUTBACK 2016, ALMOST EVERYTIME I STOPPED AN ENGINE THIS PROBLEM OCCUR.

A CRACK ON THE WINDSHIELD SUDDENLY APPEARED WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY WITH NO OTHER VEHICLES AROUND. THE CRACK WAS 8" LONG AND STARTED NEAR THE BOTTOM CORNER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. AFTER PARKING IT OVERNIGHT, THE CRACK SPREAD ACROSS HALF THE WINDSHIELD. WHEN WE HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED, SAFELITE COULD NOT FIND ANY EVIDENCE OF A CAUSE, NO CHIPS OR EVIDENCE OF A ROCK HITTING IT. EVEN WITH THE EXTENDED "GOLD" WARRANTY, SUBARU WOULD NOT COVER THE REPLACEMENT.

PROBLEM IN SHIFTER GATE SO THAT KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM IGNITION AFTER PLACING IN PARK AND TURNING OFF THE ENGINE.

PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN. BATTERY DRAINS AND DOES NOT ALLOW PROPER FUNCTIONING OF REAR HATCH. REPLACED BATTERY AFTER 2 YEARS. HAVING PROBLEM WITH NEW BATTER AFTER ONLY 2 MONTHS. VEHICLE HAS PARASITIC DRAIN THAT REDUCES THE BATTERY CHARGE OVER TIME.

CAR STALLED IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION. IT WAS TRULY FRIGHTENING BECAUSE THE BABY WAS IN THE CAR AND IT WAS DURING MORNING COMMUTE RUSH HOURS WHEN EVERYONE IS RUSHING. THE CAR IS RELATIVELY NEW WITH 35K MILES AND AM THE ONLY OWNER OF THE VEHICLE. WAS AT AN INTERSECTION AND WAITING FOR MY TURN TO MAKE A LEFT. THE CAR WAS IN 'DRIVE' AND I HAD MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE. HOWEVER, WHEN THE GREEN LEFT TURN ARROW CAME, I PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL AND THE CAR DID NOT MOVE. I MOVED FROM 'DRIVE' TO 'PARK' AND BACK TO 'DRIVE' AND PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL AGAIN AND THE CAR DID NOT MOVE. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I MOVED FROM 'DRIVE' TO 'PARK' AND TURNED OFF THE CAR ENGINE. THEN I RESTARTED THE CAR AND MOVED FROM 'PARK' TO 'DRIVE' AND PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL AGAIN AND THE CAR DID NOT MOVE. I BEGAN PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL HEAVY TRYING TO AT LEAST MAYBE MOVE TO SAFETY AND ALL OF SUDDEN THE CAR FELT VERY SLUGGISH BUT IT MOVED. I UNDERSTAND THERE IS AN EXTENDED WARRANTY OFFERED BY SUBARU REGARDING THE TRANSMISSION, BUT WHAT HAPPENED TO ME WAS DANGEROUS TO MYSELF, MY FAMILY AND OTHERS ON THE ROAD. THIS REQUIRES FURTHER INVESTIGATION AS TO NOT PUT ANY PEOPLE'S LIFE AT UNNECESSARY RISKS.

SHIFTER ASSEMBLY PROBLEM. LESS THAN 50000 MILES ON CAR AND CAR WON'T SHIFT INTO PARK! READING OTHER COMPLAINTS OF SAME PROBLEM SEEMS LIKE IT'S A DEFAULT ASSEMBLY! *TR

IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND WON'T COME OUT. EVEN AFTER TRYING TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WHICH ISN'T LOCKED. THIS HAPPENS WHEN TURNING THE CAR OFF.

CAR WON'T START THE NEXT MORNING EVEN AFTER CHARGING FOR 30 MIN VIA CONTINUOUS DRIVING/PARASITIC DRAIN ON BATTERY

REPEATED PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN. BATTERY TESTS FINE BY AUTOZONE AND DEALER, BUT CAR WILL DIE OVER A FEW HOURS OR A FEW DAYS. SOMETIMES EVEN 10 MINUTES. APPARENTLY ISSUE WITH MAKE/MODEL AS MANY COMPLAINTS.

WHILE TRYING TO COME OUT OF DRIVE WAY ONTO THE STREET, I TRIED TO STOP BY PRESSING THE BRAKES, BUT THE VEHICLE HAS ACCELERATED

COMING TO A STOP AT CURBSIDE. APPLYING LIGHT PRESSURE TO THE BRAKE. VEHICLE STARTED TO PULL FORWARD. WAS ABLE TO STOP BY INCREASING PRESSURE ON THE BRAKE. ENGINE SPEED INCREASED QUICKLY AFTER I SHIFTED TO PARK. ENGINE SOUND WAS LOUD ENOUGH TO BE NOTICED BY PEOPLE IN THE AREA. I RESPONDED BY TURNING OFF THE ENGINE. CRUISE CONTROL WAS ENABLED AT THE TIME.

THIS IS THE FOURTH WINDSHIELD TO CRACK ON US IN AN OUTBACK. THE FIRST TWO WINDSHIELDS CRACKED IN A 2015 OUTBACK. SUBARU HAD TO BUY BACK THAT CAR DUE TO AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED WINDSHIELD THAT FLOODED THE CAR. THEY GAVE US 2016 OUTBACK IN ITS PLACE. GUESS WHAT, THE 2016 OUTBACK WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED TWICE. THE FIRST CRACK WAS SEVERAL MONTHS AFTER ITS PURCHASE AND OCCURRED SPONTANEOUSLY WHILE DRIVING. THE DEALERSHIP CLAIMED A PEBBLE HIT BECAUSE THEY COULD SEE A CHIP. THIS IS DESPITE THE FACT THAT A PEBBLE NEVER TOUCHED THE CAR. OVER THE NEXT FEW DAYS THE CRACK SPREAD ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. SUBARU REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD. WELL, THE NEW WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED AGAIN. THEY ARE ALSO CLAIMING IT IS DUE TO A PEBBLE AND ARE REFUSING TO REPLACE IT THIS TIME. THEY ARE CLAIMING IT IS NOT IN THE LOCATION THAT THEIR MEMO STATES IS PART OF THE EXTENDED WINDOW WARRANTY. THERE ARE MAJOR ISSUES WITH THE WINDSHIELDS ON THE 2015 AND 2016 OUTBACKS. FOUR CRACKED WINDSHIELDS FROM WHAT THEY CLAIM ARE "PEBBLES" IS WRONG. ESPECIALLY WHEN TWO OF THE CRACKS HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR WASN'T EVEN MOVING AND WAS PARKED. SUBARU KNOWS THERE ARE PROBLEMS AND THEY ONLY EXTENDED THE WINDSHIELD WARRANTY IF THE CRACK IS THROUGH THE AREA OF THE BASE OF THE WINDOW. BUT THEY ARE WELL AWARE THAT THE CRACKS ARE HAPPENING IN OTHER PLACES AND ARE REFUSING TO RECTIFY THE SITUATION. THERE ARE SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUES NOT BEING ADDRESSED. AND THE SOLUTION IS TO GET THE COSTUMER TO JUST CONTINUE TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELDS AT THEIR OWN COST.

WITH CAR STATIONARY, ENGINE OFF AND CAR IN PARK, KEYED IGNITION WILL NOT TURN TO LOCK POSITION OR RELEASE KEY. THIS HAS HAPPENED REPEATEDLY FOR TWO WEEKS, OFTEN MORE THAN ONCE A DAY, FROM 3/10/2019 AND CONTINUING THROUGH YESTERDAY, THE LAST TIME THE CAR WAS DRIVEN.

CAR WAS STATIONARY AND HAD NOT BEEN DRIVEN IN SEVERAL HOURS AND THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED FROM THE TOP CENTER DOWN ABOUT SIX INCHES ACROSS BOTH THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER FIELD OF VIEW. THERE WAS NO PREVIOUS DAMAGE, MAJOR OR MINOR, FROM THE POINT WHERE THE CRACK APPEARED TO START FROM.

PLEASE FORWARD THIS MESSAGE ONTO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN AT SUBARU OF AMERICA CUSTOMER SERVICE. 2016 OUTBACK 3.6R BULLETIN NUMBER: 12-192-15R; NHTSA ID:10093903; REVISED: 11/19/15 UPDATE BULLETIN NUMBER: 12-192-15R; NHTSA ID:10093903; REVISED: 03/06/17 ISSUE: SPONTANEOUS CRACKED WINDSHIELD HELLO, I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF MENTIONED VEHICLE, 2016 OUTBACK 3.6R EQUIPPED WITH THE ALL-WEATHER PACKAGE AND EYESIGHT. ON FEBRUARY 28, 2019 A SMALL VISIBLE RUNNING CRACK ONE INCH IN LENGTH APPEARED JUST IN FRONT OF THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT WINDSHIELD. WITH INSPECTION THE CRACK ACTUALLY STARTED AT THE LOWER PORTION OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD IN THE DEICER/DEFROSTER AREA. SINCE THEN THE CRACKS HAVE INCREASED DAILY IN LENGTH AND IN NUMBER. ONE RUNNING CRACK HAS NOW SPREAD ACROSS THE ENTIRE LOWER HALF OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE. ANOTHER VISIBLE RUNNING CRACK ONE INCH IN LENGTH NOW HEADING IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF FRONT WINDSHIELD. IT TOO ORIGINATES FROM THE LOWER PORTION OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD IN THE DEICER/DEFROSTER AREA. UNDER VERY CLOSE PHOTO INSPECTION AT THE JUNCTIONS OF THESE MERGING CRACKS CHIPPING IS OCCURRING CAUSING ADDITIONAL SPIDERING CRACKS. I DID CONTACT MY SUBARU DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT ON MARCH 5, 2019.A SALESPERSON FILLED OUT AND I SIGNED AN INFORMATION FORM FOR REPORTING THIS ISSUE TO SUBARU AMERICA. I WAS NOT OFFERED AND DID NOT RECEIVE A COPY. HAVE NOT HEARD BACK FROM THEM YET. THIS ISSUE AND REPAIR MENTIONED IN TSB ID: 12-192-15R NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. I HAVE ATTACHED DETAILED PHOTOS AND MC-10093903-2280.PDF DOCUMENT. THIS SHOULD EXPEDITE THE REPLACEMENT PROCESS.

FEBRUARY 28, 2019. CRACKING FRONT WINDSHIELD AT THE DE-ICER / DEFROSTER AREA. THIS WAS NOT FROM ROADWAY ROCK CHIPPING. VEHICLE WAS ON DRIVEWAY WARMING UP AND DEFROSTING. AFTER, NOW FIVE DAYS THE CRACK HAS SPREAD COMPLETELY ACROSS THE LOWER HALF OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD.

WHEN STOPPED, UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION (UNABLE TO MOVE KEY FROM ACC POSITION TO LOCK POSITION SUCH THAT KEY REMAINS IN IGNITION). SAFETY CONCERN: UNACCOMPANIED CHILD COULD START VEHICLE. UNLOCKED VEHICLE COULD BE STOLEN WITH KEYS IN IGNITION.

I HAD AN ACCIDENT @ 5PM-ENTERING A BUSY ROAD FROM A DRIVEWAY-HIT THE SIDE DOOR OF A CAR RACING LEFTTORIGHT IN FRONT OF ME. MY FAULT OF COURSE. I HEARD NO BEEP WARNING FROM THE SO-CALLED COLLISION MITIGATION SYSEM (?), NOR DID I FEEL ANY BRAKING. SUBSEQUENTLY I TESTED THIS FEATURE IN MY DRIVEWAY WHERE I SLOWLY DROVE THE CAR FORWARD TOWARD MY LARGE GARAGE, I WOULD HAVE HIT THE GARAGE-NO BEEP-NO BRAKING. THEN, IN A SNOW STORM, I HAD TO BRAKE SOASTO NOT HIT A LARGE TRUCK SKIDDING IN FRONT OF ME. I MISSED HITTING HIM BY INCHES. AGAIN, I HEARD NO BEEP AND FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER TESTED THIS FEATURE ON MY CAR BY LETTING IT GO TOWARDS BRUSHES IN A CARWASH, I HEARD BEEP WARNING, BUT AGAIN FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER SAID SYSTEM IS WORKING PROPERLY. AND SO-I CONCLUDE THAT WHENEVER I HEAR ANY KIND OF WARNING BEEO, I SHOULD MANUALLY AND QUICKLY 'HIT THE BRAKES', NO MATTER WHAT. AFTER ALL, I HAVE TO KEEP MY EYES ON THE ROAD FOR GOD'S SAKE. I AM NOT HAPPY.

PROBLEM: 360 CCA BATTERIES INSTALLED IN NEW CARS ARE NOT ENOUGH AND THEY CAUSE PROBLEMS. MY FIRST INDICATION WAS A YEAR AGO WHEN I WENT TO THE STORE, WAS IN THERE 10-15 MINUTES, AND WHEN I CAME OUT THE CAR DID NOT START. A FRIEND CAME 2 HOURS LATER TO JUMP IT BUT TRIED IT FIRST AND IT STARTED RIGHT UP. SECOND PROBLEM WAS ON A TRIP TO DC IN NOVEMBER '18. NOR'EASTER CAME THROUGH AND WE GOT STUCK ON THE INTERSTATE IN THE MOUNTAINS FOR A FEW HOURS. CAR WAS STOPPED, NOT RUNNING. WENT TO GET DINNER THEN TO CAR TO GO ON AGAIN. WOULD NOT START. WERE STRANDED FOR 3 MORE HOURS, AS THE WEATHER AND MOUNTAIN DRIVE MADE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO GET HELP. WE WERE EVENTUALLY ABLE TO FIND SOMEONE TO JUMP IT. OVER NEXT FEW MONTHS, ODD THINGS HAPPENED LIKE THE RADIO NOT WORKING SPORATICALLY, SLOW STARTS, AND THE KEY NOT COMING OUT OF IGNITION OCCASIONALLY. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER, THEY RECOMMEND A $853 NEW SHIFT MECHANISM, BUT IN THE DISCUSSION HE HAPPENED TO MENTION THE 360CCA BATTERY NOT BEING ENOUGH FOR THE CAR. MY SUSPICIONS TELL ME TO GET A NEW BATTERY AND SEE HOW THINGS GO. GOT BATTERY- 640CCA, A WEEK AGO AND NO PROBLEMS AT ALL NOW. IT'S NOT RIGHT THAT THE DEALERS KNOW ABOUT THE BATTERY NOT BEING ENOUGH, AND WHEN YOU BRING THE CAR IN THEY TRY TO GET YOU TO PAY FOR LARGE DOLLAR FIX-IT'S AND AVOID TALKING ABOUT THE BATTERY ISSUE. I DON'T KNOW HOW MANY YEARS AND MAKES OF SUBARUS HAVE THESE, BUT PROB AT LEAST A FEW YEARS. THEY NEED TO RECALL AND PUT IN BETTER BATTERY, AT LEAST A $500CCA. I HAVE READ CAR GURU BLOG THAT MAKES IT OBVIOUS THAT AT LEAST HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE HAVE STORIES OF BEING STRANDED. FOR A LONG TIME OR IN A BAD PLACE. MY BATTERY COST ME $173 AND THEY SHOULD REFUND THAT TO ME.

KEY IS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN CAR IT TURNED OFF AND WILL NOT COME OUT. DRIVER HAS TO SLAM THE GEAR SHIFT INTO PARK TO GET IT TO RELEASE MULTIPLE TIMES. SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM BASED ON INTERNET RESEARCH

THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DOES NOT ENGAGE OFTEN CAUSING A JERKING MOTION OF THE CAR WHICH IS UNDIAGNOSED FOR THE PAST 3 YEARS. SUBARU EXTENDED THE TRANSMISSION WARRANTY FOR ONE YEAR. I WANT IT FIXED. MY WIFE AND I HAVE COMPLAINED SINCE THE CAR WAS NEW (2016 MODEL)

ON TWO OCCASIONS WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AT 65-75 MPH WITH NO WARNING THE GAS PEDAL STOPPED RESPONDING TO INPUTS. WHILE MANEUVERING THE VEHICLE TO THE SHOULDER OF THE ROAD THROUGH TRAFFIC THE ENGINE SHUTOFF. ON ONE OCCASION I WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AND ON THE SECOND OCCASION IT WOULD NOT RESTART. AFTER TOWING THE VEHICLE TO A REPAIR SHOP THE VEHICLE STARTED UP AND RAN WITH NO ISSUES. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS WERE EVER DISPLAYED. THE BATTERY WAS WORKING FINE AND FULLY CHARGED. THE CAR IS IN PERFECT MECHANICAL SHAPE WITH ALL REGULAR SERVICE PERFORMED. THE GAS REMAINING AT TIME OF INCIDENT WAS APPROXIMATELY 1/4 TANK FULL. THE CAUSE IS UNKNOWN TO ME.

OUR WINDSHIELD HAS HAD 3 CHIPS/CRACKS IN IT SINCE NEW. THE FIRST ONE WAS A CHIP THAT WAS REPAIRED BY SAFELIGHT. THE SECOND WAS A CRACK/CHIP WHERE THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED BY SAFELIGHT. BOTH OF THESE HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS ON-HIGHWAY. BOTH WERE IN DIFFERENT SPOTS, BUT WERE LOCATED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. THE THIRD ONE WAS A LARGE CRACK ON THE DRIVER SIDE WE NOTICED YESTERDAY (12/26/18) WITH NO APPARENT CHIP ASSOCIATED. WE'RE NOT SURE IF THIS HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE WAS MOVING OR STATIONARY. DATES FOR THE INITIAL CRACKS ARE ESTIMATES, BUT FIRST ONE WE ESTIMATE TO BE 8/2017. THE SECOND ONE WHERE THE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED IS ESTIMATED MAY 2018. WE NOTICED OTHERS WERE HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES AFTER DOING A SEARCH 12/26/18. IT ALSO APPEARS THAT SUBARU HAD ACKNOWLEDGED THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH SOME 2015 AND 2016 MODELS, BUT OUR VEHICLE VIN DID NOT SHOW UP WHEN DOING A SEARCH.

ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED AUTOMATICALLY DUE TO SWITCH ASSEMBLY MODULE FAILURE WHILE CAR WAS IN MOTION AT BETWEEN 25-30MPH. CAR STOPPED INSTANTLY, PASSENGERS THROWN FORWARD, ALL-POWER DIED. CARS IN REAR STOPPED SHORT. FAILED TO RESTART AFTER INITIAL ATTEMPTS (10 MIN). WEATHER CLEAR, ABOUT 45 DEGREES F. 2.5 YEAR OLD CAR, ~40,000 MILES.

I WAS DRIVING IN THE CITY AND IT JUST TURNED OFF ON ME. VERY QUICKLY TOO. NO TIME TO PULL OVER. JUST DIED IN MIDDLE OF THE ROAD. I WAS NOT USING THE EYE SIGHT AND IT WAS A CLEAR DAY. BUT THE DASH SAID EYE SIGHT OFF. I TRIED TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON BUT IT SAID I HAVE TO PUT IN PARK FIRST. SO I PUT IN PARK AND IT STARTED BACK UP NO PROBLEM AND WORKED ALL THE WAY HOME. THIS IS DANGEROUS. I COULD OF BEEN REAR ENDED.

PASSENGER SIDE AIR BAG IS EXPANDING OUT. DASH IS SPLITTING. CONCERN FOR PREMATURE ACTIVATION.

KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY REGARDLESS OF PUSHING, TURNING, PUTTING PARKING BREAK ON, PARKING BREAK OFF. HAVE BEEN STUCK WITH ROAD SIDE ASSISTANCE FOUR TIMES THIS BLACK FRIDAY WEEKEND. SO WRONG. READ SEVERAL OTHER COMPLAINTS CONCERNING THIS ISSUE AND STEERING WHEEL ISSUES. SUBARU SHOULD RECALL THE 2016 OUTBACK PREZ 2.5I AND PREMIUM 2.5I. DUDS FOR IGNITIONS. SAFETY ISSUE WHILE TRAVELING AND SAFETY ISSUE IF CAR CAN'T BE LEFT UNATTENDED. HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL MONDAY MORNING TO SEE IF I CAN GET AN APPOINTMENT TO GET IT FIXED SO I CAN MAKE IT HOME SAFELY AND GET THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN I GET THERE. LOVE SCOOBY BUT THIS SERIOUSLY STINKS.

DRIVING 75 MPH ON FREEWAY WITH A LITTLE OVER QUARTER TANK OF GAS ON GAS GAUGE AND SYSTEM INFO ON CAR SAID 110 MILES LEFT TILL EMPTY TANK. CAR SLOWED VERY QUICKLY AND ENGINE DIED. PULLED OVER ON FREEWAY IN THE MIDDLE OF DESERT. TOW TRUCK SERVICE TOOK 3 1/2 HOURS TO ARRIVE. TOW TRUCK DRIVER SAID CAR RAN OUT OF GAS AND PUT 5 GALLONS AND THEN CAR STARTED.