2018 Ford Fusion 4 DR FWD

Faulty APIM for radio/navigation/rear view camera. System won’t turn on or operate In cold weather. When warm, system works perfect.

I stopped at a gas station in 0 digit degree weather fahrenheit and when I tried to insert the pump into the capless filler, it was frozen guy the actual inner latch that opens to the tank itself. I tried to gently apply pressure and I could not get it to open after trying for 3-4 minutes. Luckily I was close to home since my gas light can come on and I didn't have a lot of gas left, but that also means my car is sitting in extreme cold right now with very little gas, which I believe poses a risk to line freezing. More important, what if I hadn't been as close to home? What if, while trying to drive around and fine someone to help me, I ran out of gas? If a person was in a more rural environment then I am, they might not be quickly seen and might be stranded with a car that can't provide heat any longer and in extreme cold.

Had tires replaced and mechanic reported several swollen lug nuts.

Upon entering off ramp to highway , upon acceleration car shudders and goes into limp mode, can't accelerate and forced to try and pull over to stop vehicle and re-start. Very dangerous as it is random, can't re-create and has happened at highway speeds, very unsafe. Took it to dealer, Ford could not recreate and said there were no codes present and subsequently found nothing wrong.

MY vehicle gets the tires rotated every 5,000 miles it has 55,000 miles in it the last time they rotated my tires they said the all 2 piece lug nuts will have to be replaced , I'm 75 years old and have worked on all my vehicles and never have I replaced all the lug nuts, I understand this has been happening to many ford products , I hope there is going to be a recall this becomes very expensive if they cannot remove the lug nuts with the impact tool .

On four separate occasions the truck will randomly open while driving. After the first couple times I was extremely careful to ensure I did not randomly hit the button or had my key fob in a way that the truck release could be activated by accident. Despite this the truck will still randomly open on its own. Could be a very dangerous situation if the trunk is full.

Electrical: My car’s radio was going out and I took to Ford for a check while getting oil change. They said normal don’t worry about it. At this time I was still in warranty. When taken to Ford the 2nd time,they “reset” my SYNC & then the radio/touchscreen complete stopped working within 48 hours. When I told them, I just happened to be out of warranty then. Touch screen is completely blank! It will not turn on or allow controls for heat nor a/c. Cannot see backup camera nor can I hear the beeps. The USB plugs and outlets are also not working! This began in January 2020. I have a 7 month old at the time and it was a very cold winter. Engine: Fast forward to August 2020, my car just shut down in the middle of the highway and started shaking with my then 15 month old! Pulled over and had it towed to Ford. Ford told me it needed a new Engine and would cost $7500 to get it fixed. I had never issues before and each oil change received the multi point inspection and I was never informed of any issues prior to.

MISSOURI

Blown head gasket at only 85k miles.

Head gasket failure

My check engine light came on. It was diagnosed as a misfire in cylinder 2. Today I was told the entire engine needs to be replaced

IN HEAD ON CRASH AIR BAG DID NOT DEPLOY

I just recently purchased my 2018 Ford fusion SE and about 2 months after I purchased it I noticed clanking noise coming from the front driver side tire area. I took it to Mavis and have them look at it and they said that the bolt that held on to the steering control arm had gotten loose and they tightened it it did not make a noise for maybe a day or so and then it just started clanking and the steering and controlling is a lot looser now. I have not been in an accident I am filing this safety report and I am contacting Ford dealership to look at it to see if it could possibly be due to the recall that these cars have on them for the steering I don't know why if it is my VIN number wasn't included but I'm going to have Ford dealership check it out. There were no lights that came up flashing no warning signals but the car's steering has gotten extremely loose and I want to get the problem fixed before there is an incident

Car is parked and fine. Started car and ABS comes on. Then brake fluid is low. Then hose line is ruptured and throwing out brake fluid.

The contact owns a 2018 Ford Fusion. The contact stated that after starting the vehicle and shifting into reverse, the vehicle misfired. The contact stated that the check engine warning light was illuminated. The contact restarted the vehicle however, the failure persisted. The failure became worse after driving for a while. The contact took the vehicle to the local dealer to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired however, the repair was pending. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 82,700.

I was able to replicate the first issue once, second issue happens more frequently: Braking system not grabbing on as hard as they should and abs did not activate. car also seems to lunge forward sometimes when slowing down, most noticeable when preparing to turn. Took the car to get inspected at a Ford Dealership, they claim to no be able to replicate the issue. I've also opened up a case with Ford Motor Co.

Trunk pops open unprompted frequently, often while driving. This is an electrical issue that Ford is not fixing

Blower motor keeps overheating and failing, potentially leading to engine fire

Check engine light (#2 cylinder misfire) was generated, rough idle on start, cold start is prolonged, high temperature indicated, coolant quickly emptied on its own (within minutes, it was half full) and white smoke exiting the exhaust. NHTSA has a TSB related to this year model vehicle: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf I believe this issue is related to the above link.

I WAS HIT BY A TOYOTA HIGHLANDER ON HWY 12 CA WHILE WAITING FOR THE LIGHT TO TURN GREEN. THE TRUCKS APPOX. SPEED 40 TO 50 MILES AN HOUR,SPRAIN NECK,LOWER BACK SEVER PAIN REPTURED BREAST IMPLANT KNOCKED FRONT TOOTH IMPLANT OUT ..AIR BAGS DID NOT COME OUT CAR IS TOTALLED.I WAS AT A DEAD STOP. I WAS ON HWY THERE WAS A SHERIFF RIGHT BEHIND THE GUY WHO HIT ME HE WAS ON CELL PHONE. MY PASSENGER PULLED REAR OUT ENOUGH TO GET IT TO MY HOUSE SO IT WAS NOT TOWED. I WENT TO EMERGENCE AFTER I GOT HOME

I FIRST NOTICED HARSH SHIFTING AND DELAYED SHIFTING. THEN I WAS PULLING OFF FROM THE CAR WASH AND MY GEARSHIFT JUMP GEARS FROM NEUTRAL TO REVERSE BUT NOT DRIVE HOWEVER THE CAR DID MOVE FORWARD. I HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO WINNER GORD WHERE THEY IMMEDIATELY KNEW WHAT THE ISSUE WAS BECAUSE THEY SAID ITS COMMON. WHEN I GOT MY VEHICLE BACK THE HARSH/DELAYED SHIFTING WAS STILL AN ISSUE. WEEKS LATER THE CAR IN ADDITION TO HARSH AND DELAYED SHIFTING IT NOW SHAKES REALLY BAD.

45,000 MILES ON THE CAR. ENGINE COOLANT IS LEAKING INTO THE ENGINE CYLINDERS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2018 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED UPON STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO SHIFT OUT OF PARK. NO WARNING LIGHTS WERE ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AUTO GIANT FORD (4600 BRANCH AVE, TEMPLE HILLS, MD 20748, (240) 685-2274) WHERE A DIAGNOSTIC TEST COULD NOT DETERMINE THE CAUSE FOR THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 68,326.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2018 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE REVERSING AND MAKING A RIGHT TURN, THE STEERING WHEEL BECAME VERY LOOSE. THE CONTACT STATED NO WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT YET DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. UPON INVESTIGATION, THE CONTACT ASSOCIATED THE FAILURE WITH NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V167000 (STEERING) HOWEVER, THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 67,000.

DRIVETRAIN WARNING LIGHT THEN A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. HAD THE CODES READ (P2119) CAME UP TOOK TO FORD SHOP AND WAS TOLD MY THROTTLE BODY ACTUATOR CONTROL SYSTEM WAS STUCK CLOSED AND HAD FAILED. MY VEHICLE HAS JUST OVER 41000 MILES ON IT. LUCKILY IT IS COVERED BY THE WARRANTY.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND ALL OF A SUDDEN A WRENCH SENSOR POPPED UP ALONG WITH THE AIRBAG SENSOR AND THE CAR STARTING DE-ACCELERATING AND SHAKING AND I HAD TO PULL OVER. I WENT TO A MECHANIC AND THEY SAID THAT THE THROTTLE BODY WAS DIRTY SO THEY CLEANED IT AND THEY CLEARED THE CODE BUT IT RECENTLY HAPPENED TWO MORE TIMES. WHEN IT HAPPENS IT MAKES THE CAR NOT ABLE TO START AS EASILY. IT'S REALLY DANGEROUS BECAUSE IT MAKES IT TO WHERE THE CAR WILL JUST NOT ACCELERATE AND IF YOU ARE ON THE HIGHWAY THERE ARE CARS FLYING RIGHT PAST YOU. THIS HAS HAPPENED A TOTAL OF 3 OR 4 TIMES.

GEAR DIAL STUCK IN PARK MODE. GEAR DIAL I WILL NOT MOVE. WHEN THE PROBLEM FIRST STARTED THEN TURNING THE CAR ON AND OFF AND TRYING OVER AND OVER I WAS ABLE TO GET IT INTO GEAR. THIS LAST TIME THAT DIDN'T WORK. ATTEMPTED TO GET THE CAR IN NEUTRAL USING THE NEUTRAL OVERRIDE METHOD BUT IT FAILED. CAR HAD TO BE WENCHED ONTO THE TOEING TRUCK WHILE STUCK IN GEAR. PROBLEM BEGAN OCCURRING AT 40,000 MILES. THE BATTERY IN THE CAR DIED FROM LEAVING THE LIGHTS ON AND THIS SEEMED TO 'RESET' THE PROBLEM AND NO ISSUES FOR 6 WEEKS. ORANGE WRENCH WARNING SIGN APPEARED AGAIN AND NOW THE CAR IS STUCK IN PARK AND HAVE TO TOW IT TO A FORD DEALER. I ALSO NOTICED THAT WHEN THIS PROBLEM OCCURRED THE BLUE ANTI THEFT LIGHT CONSTANTLY FLASHES. AFTER THE BATTERY DRAINED AND THE PROBLEM RESET THEN I ACCIDENTALLY HIT THE LOCK BUTTON TWICE AND THIS IS WHEN THE BLUE LIGHY STARTED FLASHING AGAIN AND I WAS UNABLE TO GET THE VEHICLE OUT OF PARK MODE. WHEN I FIRST PURCHASED THE VEHICLE AT 40,000 MILES I WAS DRIVING THE INTERSTATE AND THE BLUE ANTI THEFT LIGHT BEGAN FLASHING AND THE CAR ALARM SOUNDED WHILE I WAS AT A 75 MPH SPEED. I HAD TO STOP THE CAR, TURN IT OFF, HIT THE UNLOCK BUTTON ON MY KEY FOB TO GET THE. ALARM TO STOP SOUNDING. I BELIEVE THE TWO ISSUES MAY BE RELATED AS THEY HAPPEN AT THE SAME TIME. THE ORANGE WRENCH ONLY APPEARS WHEN THE CAR WILL NOT GO IN GEAR. WHEN THE CAR HAS EASILY GONE IN DEAR THE ORANGE WRENCH IS NOT PRESENT. AGAIN, I AM UNABLE TO ENGAGE THE NEUTRAL OVERRIDE BY USING THE KEY IN THE OVERRIDE SLOT. THE LIGHTS WILL FLASH ON THE DIAL BUT THE CAR WILL NOT GO INTO NEUTRAL, IT REMAINS STUCK. I HAVE TRIED MANY TIMES AND HAD OTHERS TRY IT AS WELL SO I KNOW IT'S NOT USER ERROR. CAR ALARM GOES OFF WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE.

GOT TOLD BY A CO-WORKER YESTERDAY THAT MY TRUNK WAS OPEN WHICH WAS STRANGE SINCE I HAD MY KEYS LAYING ON MY DESK WITH NOTHING ON TOP OF THEM. I DIDN'T THINK MUCH OF IT UNTIL TODAY UNTIL I PARKED MY CAR AFTER GETTING OFF WORK AND MY TRUNK OPENED AGAIN ON ITS' OWN. I DIDN'T PRESS THE BUTTON AND THERE WASN'T ANYTHING SITTING ON TOP OF IT BUT I COULD HEAR THE LATCH CONSTANTLY MAKING A NOISE AS IF THE LATCH WAS OPENING FOR THE TRUNK. MY KEYS WERE SITTING IN MY CUP HOLDER AT THAT TIME. LUCKILY BOTH TIMES MY VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY BUT I'VE READ UP ON THIS ISSUE AND IT HAS HAPPENED TO OTHER PEOPLE WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION

PURCHASED 2018 FORD FUSION TITANIUM USED IN AUGUST 2019. IN DECEMBER 2020 MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND I TOOK IT FOR SERVICE. SERVICE TOLD ME THAT THERE IS A TECHNICAL BULLETIN ON THE ECOBOOST ENGINE BECAUSE THERE IS A BAD CAST ON THE HEAD. THIS CAUSES COOLANT TO LEAK INTO THE OIL. THE ONLY WAY TO REPAIR IS TO REPLACE THE ENGINE. FORD REFUSES TO STAND BEHIND THEIR PRODUCT AND THE COST OF FIXING IT FALLS ON ME. THE VEHICLE WAS MOVING WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR SMELT OF BURNING. WHITE SMOKE WAS COMING FROM THE EXHAUST.

2018 FORD FUSION. WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY, SIDE ROADS, AND THROUGH TOWN A ORANGE/ YELLOW WRENCH SYMBOL WOULD POP UP WITH 'SEE MANUAL.' LOOKED IN MANUAL AND SAID POWERTRAIN/ ENGINE FAULT. GOT THE VEHICLE SCANNED AT A SHOP AND CAME UP BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERLOCK(BTSI). THE LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF. BEEN TOLD MANY PEOPLE HAVE HAD THIS COMPLAINT AND STILL NO RECALL. GUY AT THE SHOP TOLD ME THEIR SHOULD BE A RECALL FOR THEM AS HE THOUGHT IN THE PREVIOUS YEARS THEIR WAS. LOOKED IT UP AND BY WHAT IT SAYS ONLINE, THAT IT BASICALLY KEEPS IT FROM SHIFTING OUT OF PARK WHILE FOOT IS NOT ON BRAKE.

A WEEK AGO I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY @ 70 MPH AND ALL OF THE SUDDEN MY CAR STOPPED FOR NO REASON I LOOKED DOWN AND MY TURN KNOB SHIFTER WAS ON PARK, LUCKY FOR ME THERE WASN'T ANY VEHICLE CLOSE BEHIND ME. I PUT MY EMERGENCY FLASHERS ON AND TURNED MY CAR OFF AND BACK ON AND IT STARTED GOING AGAIN. THEN THE OTHER DAY I STARTED IT AND IT STARTED FINE PUT IT IN REVERSE AND IT SWITCHED TO PARK WHEN I STARTED BACKING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY AND A WARNING SHOWED UP ON MY SCREEN AND SAID TO STOP SAFELY, SO AGAIN I TURNED IT OFF AND BACK ON AND IT STARTED AND BACKED UP AND DROVE FINE BUT THE WARNING SIGN WAS STILL THERE SO I PULLED BACK IN MY DRIVEWAY TURNED IT OFF LET IT SIT FOR ABOUT AN HOUR, STARTED IT AND THE WARNING SIGN WAS GONE AND IT RAN FINE.

PRECURSOR 1: CAR HAD THREE SHORT TRIPS WITH BRIEF BREAKS. AND ABOUT 1 MIN IN OFF/PARK BEFORE PROBLEMS OCCURRED. PRECURSOR 2: ENGINE DID NOT FULLY START AND VEHICLE GEAR DIAL WOULDN'T MOVE OUT OF PARK. RECEIVED A MESAGE ABOUT THE BRAKE. THOUGHT THIS WAS CAUSED BY NOT DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL ENOUGH. TURNED OFF ENGINE, FIRMLY PRESSED BRAKE PEDAL AND TURNED ON ENGINE, SAME PROBLEM. TRIED A 3RD TIME, SAME PROBLEM. ON, MAYBE 4TH ATTEMPT THE MAJOR PROBLEM OCCURRED (VEHICLE ENGINE NOT TURNING OFF). THE NOT STARTING - BRAKE CONNECTION PROBLEM HAD OCCURRED IN AUG 2019 AND FEB 2020. FORD DEALER COULD NOT IDENTIFY PROBLEM IN AUG. IN FEB, PROBLEM ACCOMPANIED BY "PARKING BRAKE FAILURE" MESSAGE AND FORD REPLACED IT. NOT SURE IF IT'S PART OF THE PROBLEM AGAIN. MAJOR PROBLEM: ON ABOUT THE 4TH ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR ENGINE, THE VEHICLE ENGINE WOULD NOT POWER DOWN AND WAS NOT DRIVEABLE. POWER ON/OFF BUTTON WAS NOT RESPONSIVE TO TOUCH, THE SMALL GREEN LIGHT ON POWER BUTTON BLINKED. TWO WARNING LIGHTS APPEARED WHEN THIS OCCURRED--THE BATTERY LIGHT AND TRIANGULAR WARNING LIGHT WITH THE EXCLAMATION POINT. TURNED OFF RADIO AND AC IN RESPONSE TO LIGHTS. COULD MOVE GEAR DIAL FROM PARK TO DRIVE AND BACK BUT THERE WAS NO POWER TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE. ENGINE CONTINUED TO RUN FOR LONG TIME QUIETLY SEEMINGLY ON BATTERY ALTHOUGH PANEL DIDN'T SHOW IT WAS IN HYBRID MODE. WINDOWS AND LOCKS WORKED. WHEN OPENED DOOR, THE "DOOR AJAR" MESSAGE APPEARED THAT APPEARS ONLY WHEN ENGINE IS ON. WHEN TOW TRUCK DRIVER ARRIVED, HE WALKED LONG DISTANCE FROM CAR WITH KEY--ENGINE STILL RAN-- AND HE WAS UNABLE TO POWER DOWN THE ENGINE FROM INSIDE VEHICLE TOO. EVENTUALLY RESORTED TO DISCONNECTING THE SMALL BATTERY TO TURN OFF ENGINE; HOWEVER, THAT CLEARED OUT THE CODES FROM THE WARNING LIGHTS AND SO THERE'S NO DATA FOR FORD TO FIND OTHER THAN THE BATTERY CODES UPON RECONNECTING THE VEHICLE.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AND GOT INTO A CAR ACCIDENT, I WAS GOING 60MPH AND WAS ONLY ABLE TO SLOW DOWN TO 40MPH. MY AIRBAGS DIDN'T EVEN GO OFF WITH SUCH A BIG IMPACT AND REAR ENDING SOMEONE, AND MY SEATBELT DIDN'T LOCK UNTIL AFTER I FLEW FORWARD HITTING THE STEERING WHEEL.

2018 FORD FUSION SE 1.5L ECOBOOST 66K MILES- 8/27/2020 I WAS EXITING THE FREEWAY APPROACHING A STOPLIGHT WHEN OUT OF NO WHERE MY CAR FELT AS IF IT WERE GOING TO STALL OUT, VERY ROUGH SHAKY IDLE, AND IDLING AT 800 OR LESS RPMS. ON GREEN, I ATTEMPTED TO GO AND MY CAR WAS HAVING TROUBLE ACCELERATING, AGAIN FEELING AS IF IT WAS GOING TO STALL DUE TO LITTLE POWER. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND WAS FLASHING THEN WOULD STAY LIT, FLASHING EVERY SO OFTEN. AIR CONDITIONING WOULD GO IN AND OUT WARM TO COLD AND IT WAS ROUGH AND SHAKY TRYING TO GET THE CAR TO GO. I TOOK IT TO AUTOZONE IMMEDIATELY WHERE I GOT THE P0302 READING INVOLVING IGNITION COILS AND SPARK PLUGS. WE REPLACED ALL 4 PLUGS AND COIL PACKS THAT NIGHT AND THE FOLLOWING MORNING AND THE CAR WAS STILL IDLING ROUGH AND HAVING TROUBLE ACCELERATING. TOOK CAR TO A MECHANIC SHOP 8/29/2020 WHERE IT WAS LOOKED AT 8/30/2020. THEY TOLD ME IT WAS FOR SURE CYLINDER 2 MISFIRE AND THAT THE SPARK PLUG WAS COVERED IN OIL (WHICH WAS BRAND NEW COILS, NO OIL WHEN THEY WERE REPLACED JUST DAYS BEFORE). HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE FORD DEALERSHIP I PURCHASED IT AT 9/1/2020 AND IT WAS INSPECTED THE FOLLOWING DAY. THE VERDICT WAS VERTICAL SCORING PRESENT ON CYLINDER WALLS IN CONSISTENT WITH PISTON AND PISTON RING CAUSING OIL CONSUMPTION AND PRESSURE LOSS; NEEDS A NEW LONG BLOCK. THIS WAS NOTHING I HAD DONE TO THE VEHICLE, NO PREVIOUS ISSUES WITH THE VEHICLE, UP TO DATE ON ALL OIL CHANGES AND MAINTENANCE BUT MY WARRANTY HAD RAN OUT. AFTER MUCH RESEARCH, I DISCOVERED THIS PROBLEM HAS HAPPENED TO MANY 1.5 L ECOBOOST ENGINES AND FORD IS AWARE OF THE DEFAULT IN THE ENGINE. THIS WAS A PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE BEFORE I TOOK POSSESSION OF THE CAR. THERE IS REPROGRAMMING OF SOFTWARE TO BANDAID THE PROBLEM BUT NOW THIS IS MY PROBLEM THEY WANT ME TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR.

COOLANT LEAKED INTERNALLY. ROUGH WHILE IDLING. LOSS OF POWER WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE.

2018 FORD FUSION. CONSUMER WRITES SEEKING REIMBURSEMENT FOR SAFETY RECALL 19S54. *LD *JS

MY ELECTRICAL IN MY CAR DOES NOT ALWAYS WORK POWER STEERING WINDOWS ARE AFFECTED CANNOT USE MY IPHONE TO MAKE OR RECEIVE CALLS WINDOWS DON'T GO UP AND DOWN

BACK PASSENGER DOOR UNLATCHES WHILE DRIVING SPORADICALLY. FORD PREVIOUSLY HAD A RECALL ON THE 2016 MODEL HOWEVER, THEY ARE STATING THAT THIS DOES NOT FALL UNDER THE RECALL. MY 4 YEAR OLD SON SITS IN THE BACK SEAT IN HIS CAR SEAT. THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. MY VEHICLE IS AT THE DEALERSHIP NOW AND THEY ARE FILING A CLAIM THROUGH MY 3RD PARTY WARRANTY COMPANY AND MAKING ME PAY FOR THE DEDUCTIBLE AND I SUSPECT THE LOANER VEHICLE. I JUST PURCHASED THE VEHICLE IN MARCH 2020 AND I HAVE NOTICED IT WHEN SINCE PURCHASE. *TR

JUNE 15, 2020: I STARTED THE CAR AND IMMEDIATELY, A MIL LIGHT CAME ON AND THE COMBUSTION ENGINE IDLE WAS ROUGH (RPM GOING UP AND DOWN). WITHIN ABOUT 30 SECONDS, A MESSAGE SAYING "STOP SAFELY NOW" POPPED ON THE DASH AND WITHIN A FEW SECONDS, THE ENGINE STOPPED. I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK ON, BUT IT DID THE SAME THING (STOP SAFELY NOW AND ENGINE STOPPING). THE CAR WAS STILL IN MY DRIVEWAY. HAD THE CAR TOWED TO DEALER, AND AFTER 8 DAYS, THE CAR WAS REPAIRED (NEW MAP SENSOR) 6/23/2020: DROVE HOME FROM DEALER (10 MI) 6/24/2020: STARTED CAR AND DROVE TO WORK. WITHIN 3 MILES, SAME "STOP SAFELY NOW" MESSAGE POPPED AND THE CAR KILLED THE ENGINE WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON A MAJOR ROAD. THIS WAS A DANGEROUS SITUATION AS WHEN THE CAR DOES THAT, YOU HAVE NO BRAKE ASSISTANCE, NO POWER STEERING AND NO PROPULSION. HAD TO GET THE CAR TOWED A SECOND TIME. *TR

THE SUNROOF LEAKS INTO THE INSIDE OF THE CAR SATURATING THE HEADLINER AND THE WATER IS COMING THROUGH AND DRIPPING DIRECTLY ON THE SHIFTER, ECO BUTTON, AND THE TRACTION CONTROL BUTTON. I AM AFRAID IT'S GOING TO MESS WITH THE WIRING THROUGHOUT THE WHOLE CAR. *TR

RECEIVED A MESSAGE THAT FORD THAT THE COOLANT COULD BE GOING INTO ENGINE AND COULD DAMAGE ENGINE MIGHT NEED A PART IM IN FLORIDA SINCE 1/2/2020 THE CAR IS ON INSURANCE MODE NOT BEING MOVED OR STARTED SO NO DAMAGE CAN HAPPEN WE WILL BE BACK IN N Y MID JUNE , THE CAR IS A LEASE CAR AND WILL I BSTILL BE ABLE TO BRING IN FOR REPAIRS WITHOUT ANY COST TO ME WHICH I CANT CONTROL DO TO THE VIRUS IN N Y C. *TR

RECENTLY BROUGHT VEHICLE IN FOR OIL CHANGE AND TIRE ROTATION TO FARNEY FORD IN SELMA, CA DEALERSHIP AND WAS TOLD THAT THE LUG NUTS EXPANDED AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. THEREFORE I WOULD HAVE TO PAY TO HAVE 5 LUG NUTS REPLACED ON ALL 4 FACTORY INSTALLED TIRES IN ORDER TO GET A TIRE ROTATION. THE VEHICLE HAS GONE IN FOR TIMELY OIL CHANGES AND DID HAVE TIRE ROTATION DONE BY THE FARNEY FORD DEALERSHIP WITHIN THE PAST 15 MONTHS. WE DID PUT A COMPLAINT IN AND WAS ASSIGNED A CASE NUMBER FROM FORD. 5 DAYS LATER AND STILL NO RESPONSE. WHAT WILL HAPPEN IF I GET A FLAT AND CAN'T GET THE LUG NUTS OFF? WE LIVE IN A FARMING TOWN AND TRAVEL THROUGH BACK ROADS TO GET IN TO FRESNO, CA.

ON 3/6/2020 WE TOOK VEHICLE IN TO DEALERSHIP. THEY PERFORMED OIL CHANGE AND REPROGRAMMED PCM DUE TO RECALL THAT WAS ISSUED ON MY VEHICLE. 2 DAYS LATER WE STARTED HAVING ISSUES WITH GAS MILEAGE SENSOR. DEALERSHIP TO US TO RESET. VEHICLE CONTINUE TO HAVE USSUES WARNING LIGHTS ARE ON, NOW WE HAVE PARASITIC DRAIN. CAR WONT START. WE HAVE GOTTEN JUMP START NEXT DAY VEHUCLE WONT START. WE WERE TOLD BATTERY IS GOOD. ISSUE IS WITH MODULE. I WENT THROUGH ON LAST FORD VEHICLE AND AFTER 4 REPAIRS, SPENDING OUT OF POCKET THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS THEY NEVER FIXED FORD FOCUS SO I PURCHASED FORD FUSION AND NOW THE EXACT SAME ISSUE. IT ALSO MAY LOUD SOUND DURING JUMP START. VEHICLE HAS BEEN DISABLED SINCE 3/27/2020.

AT A RENT-A-CAR FACILITY IN ABSECON, NJ, CUSTOMER RETURNED THE VEHICLE COMPLAINING THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT STAY LOCKED. CAR WAS PARKED, NO DOORS WERE AJAR (RENTAL AGENT MADE SURE OF IT), LOCKED VEHICLE, AND TRIED THE HANDLES. FOUND AFTER ONE OR TWO PUMPS ON ANY HANDLE THE VEHICLE WOULD UNLOCK ITSELF. EVEN TRIED TO LOCK WITH THE EJECT KEY IN THE FOB ITSELF AND THE SAME RESULT OCCURRED. CHECKED BACK LOG ON VEHICLE FOR KEY CODE ON THE DRIVER DOOR TO FIND NO SUCH CODE AVAILABLE. THIS MAY BE AN ELECTRICAL/FUSE ISSUE REGARDING THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS.

PASSENGER REAR SEAT BELT LATCH NOT ALLOWING SEATBELT TO LATCH, HAVE TO TRY SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE LATCH WILL WORK, THIS IS USUALLY WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED AND NOT IN MOTION

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, LOTS OF WHITE SMOKE OUT OF TAILPIPE AND DARK BLACK SPARK PLUGS AT 15,000 MILES! DEALER SAID I GOT BAD GAS OR VANDALISM THEREFORE NO WARRANTY COVERAGE. I HAD TO PAY A LOCAL MECHANIC TO REPLACE SPARK PLUGS, PUMP OUT AND REPLACE FUEL. TWO WEEKS LATER I RECEIVE A FORD LETTER STATING COOLANT CAN LEAK INTO THE CYLINDER BORES CAUSING EXACTLY HAPPENED TO MY VEHICLE. NOW I HAVE TO SEEK REIMBURSEMENT.

I STARTED LOSING COOLANT AS A I DROVE WITHOUT ANY VISIBLE LEAKS AROUND THE ENGINE OR COOLING SYSTEM. I DECIDED TO TAKE THE VEHICLE IN TO MY DEALER ONLY TO FIND OUT THAT THE COOLANT IS LEAKING INTERNALLY AND THAT THE DEALER IS VERY USED TO SEEING THIS ISSUE ON 2018 AND 2019 FORD FUSIONS. THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE ENGINE. THANKFULLY IT'S UNDER WARRANTY. IF THIS IS SUCH A COMMON ISSUE THAT THE DEALER IS AWARE OF IT AS SOON AS I BRING IN THE VEHICLE, WHY IS THERE NO RECALL ON THIS ISSUE? THEY ARE WARRANTING THE REPLACEMENT PARTS AND LABOR...SO I'M ASSUMING THEY HAVE FIXED THE ISSUE.

METAL SCRATCHING UNDER CAR

STEERING WHEEL LOSE

THERE'S A LEAK IN THE VALVE STEM ON THE FRONT RIGHT TIRE.

WHILE DRIVING ON I-95 IN EXTREMELY HEAVY TRAFFIC THE 2018 FORD FUSION SUDDENLY DECELERATED AND INDICATING LIGHTS CAME ON. IT WAS HARROWING AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO NAVIGATE THE DISABLED VEHICLE. THE FORD DEALER STATES THE THROTTLE BODY NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THIS IS INTERESTING SINCE, THE CAR IS ONLY SIX MONTHS OLD. ADDITIONALLY, THIS IS A KNOWN ON OTHER (OLDER) FORD MODELS WHICH MAKES ME SUSPECT THEY ARE USING KNOWN DEFECTIVE PARTS.

CHANGES GEARS ON ITS OWN EXAMPLE-AFTER GETTING IN THE CAR PUTTING SEAT BELT ON, PUTTING FOOT ON BRAKE AND STARTING THE CAR, PUTTING CAR IN REVERSE,CHECKING MIRRORS USING THE BACKUP CAMERA I LOOK ONE MORE TIME. I WAS IN A BUSY PARKING LOT. LET MY FOOT OFF THE BRAKE WHEN IT WENT INTO PARK. AN OTHER TIME WAS AT THE BANK I PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE TO GET CLOSER TO THE WINDOW THEN TO GET CLOSER I PUT CAR IN DRIVE IT WENT BACK TO PARK. AN OTHER TIME I HAD PULLED OUT OF MY DRIVE WAY STOP TO PUT THE CAR IN DRIVE STARTED TO MOVE FORWARD WHEN IT WENT BACK TO PARK. EVERY TIME SOMETHING WENT WRONG IT GO BACK TO PARK. I WAS JUST SETTING IN THE CAR ONCE WITH MY FRIEND THAT I WAS SHOWING HER MY CAR WHEN THE PARK FLASHED IT ALSO HAPPEN TO ME WHEN I WAS LOOKING AT SOMETHING AT THE BANK WHEN THE PARK LIGHT FLASHED. THE DAY I TAKE THE CAR TO THE DEALER SERVICE TO TELL THEM I DIDN'T,WANT TO DRIVE THE CAR ANY MORE I WAS TALKING TO THE SALEPERSON THAT HELP SALE THE CAR TO ME, HE TOLD ME MOVE THE TO NEXT LANE SO THE SERVICE PEOPLE COULD LOOK AT IT AGAIN WHEN THE GEARSHIFT MOVE IN MY HAND.I HAVE TALKED TO THE DEALERSHIP MANY TIMES. ONE MANGER EVEN TOLD ME TO GO TO A DR.FOR HEAD BECAUSE THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH MY CAR. FORD IS HAVING A LOT OF TROUBLE WITH THEIR CARS A LOT WITH THE GEARS SHIFT TOO. WHAT IF SOMETHING GO WRONG WHEN I AM GOING 60 TO 70 MILES DEATH! SHOW HER MY CAR WHEN THE PARK LIGHT FLASHED I REALLY AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR. AS FOR THE DATE YOU ASK FOR BELOW. IT HAS HAPPEN TIME MANY TIMES SINCE DEC 2018 ALSO ON CITY STREETS, AT HOME AND IN PARKING LOT. ALSO IN MOTION

WHILE STOPPED AT A INTERSECTION FOR A RED LIGHT THE CAR COMPLETELY DIED. I COULDN'T TURN ON THE EMERGENCY FLASHERS, ROLL DOWN WINDOWS OR UNLOCK DOORS. EVERYTHING WAS DEAD. I WAS IDLING AT THE STOP LIGHT WHEN THIS HAPPENED.

2009 FORD. CONSUMER WRITES SEEKING REIMBURSEMENT FOR RENTAL WHILE WAITING FOR TAKATA AIRBAG SAFETY RECALL TO BE REPAIRED ON VEHICLE. *LD *TR

ON OCTOBER 17, 2018, I DROVE INTO A SHOPPING CENTER PARKING LOT AND PROCEEDED TO PARK IN FRONT OF THE SHOPS. I HAD ENTERED THE PARKING SPACE AT A VERY LOW SPEED AND WAS ALMOST AT A DEAD STOP WHEN MY 2018 FORD FUSION SPORT LURCHED FORWARD WITH SUCH A POWERFUL BURST OF SPEED, I WAS UNABLE TO STOP BEFORE HITTING A WINDOW AND BRICK WALL DIVIDING THE SHOPS. NO FLOOR MAT ISSUE WAS INVOLVED AND I DID NOT STEP ON THE ACCELERATOR THINKING IT WAS THE BRAKE. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED AND INSURANCE NOTIFIED. THE CAR IS STILL AT FORD DEALER FOR REPAIR. THE COLLISION & SERVICE MANAGER TOLD US THAT NO ERROR COULD BE FOUND WHEN PULLING CODES. THIS IS A MAJOR & DEADLY PROBLEM WITH AUTO SAFETY AND ADVANCED ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS. AN ELECTRONIC GLITCH IN THE THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM THAT CANNOT BE DETECTED AFTER ACCIDENT SHOULD BE NUMBER 1 PRIORITY ON AUTO SAFETY !!!! I AM SERIOUSLY AFRAID TO DRIVE MY CAR AFTER REPAIRS BECAUSE LIKE RUSSIAN ROULETTE, IT MAY HAPPEN AGAIN BECAUSE THE PROBLEM DID NOT LEAVE A TRACE THE FIRST TIME. THE NEXT TIME COULD BE AT AN INTERSECTION AND LIVES COULD BE LOST !!!!

TAKATA AIRBAG. RECEIVED NOTICE OF AIRBAG RECALL OVER TWO YEARS AGO (JULY 2016). STILL TO REMEDY. WE WANT TO USE THE VEHICLE FOR VACATION TRAVEL BUT ARE WORRIED ABOUT THE SAFETY OF THE PERSON IN THE PASSENGER SEAT.

WHEN THE TEMPERATURE OUTSIDE GOES OVER 70 DEGREES, THERE'S CREAKING NOISES UNDERNEATH, SOMETIMES VERY LOUD WHEN TURNING, EVEN WHEN PARKED, MOVING THE STEERING WHEEL LEFT OR RIGHT IT MAKES THE NOISE. LOOKING ONLINE, THERE ARE SEVERAL COMPLAINTS THAT REPORT THE SAME PROBLEM, MY CAR HAS ONLY 72K MILES AND IT FEELS LIKE SOMETHING IS GOING TO BREAK. IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING ALL SUMMER THIS YEAR AND IT'S GETTING LOUDER. THIS HAS TO BE A RECALL.

IN MID-FEBRUARY 2018, AFTER JUST OVER 1 MONTH OF OWNERSHIP AND WITH 939 MILES ON THE VEHICLE, THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT BELT BECAME LOCKED WHILE NOT IN USE. THE SEATBELT WAS LOCKED NOT IN USE UNABLE TO BE USED. THIS WAS DISCOVERED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED IN AN OUTDOOR PARKING SPACE AT THE OWNER'S HOME. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN INVOLVED IN ANY COLLISIONS. THE SEATBELT AND PRE-TENSIONING SYSTEM WAS REPLACED BY THE DEALERSHIP UNDER WARRENTY.

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK THROUGH A RESIDENTIAL DISTRICT AND WAS SLOWING TO MAKE TURNS, I EXPERIENCED A HORRIBLE SCREECHING NOISE THAT WAS COMING FROM WHAT SOUNDED LIKE THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE WHEEL AREA. IT SOUNDED LIKE THE SCREECHING OF METAL ON METAL. I FOUND A SAFE LOCATION AND PULLED OFF THE ROAD IN A RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOOD. THE ISSUE OCCURRED AGAIN WHILE TOW TRUCK OPERATOR WAS DRIVING THE VEHICLE ON THE BACK OF HIS FLATBED AND AGAIN APPEARED TO CORRELATE TO USE OF THE BRAKE WHILE DRIVING IT UP THE INCLINED FLAT-BED.

SOLD CAR WITH OPEN RECALL FROM MAC HAIK FORD , GEORGETOWN, TX

WHEN SEAT BELT IS DETACHED FROM EITHER DRIVER OR PASSAGER NO INDICATOR WHILE DRIVING. IT INDICATES AFTER DRIVING FOR 2 MINUTES.

CAR WAS IN MOTION ON A CITY STREET ABOUT 40 MPH GOING STRAIGHT AND ALL OF A SUDDEN THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR BECAME UNLATCHED AND PARTIALLY OPENED. A NOISE ON THE DASH SOUNDED AND STATED THE DRIVERS DOOR WAS AJAR, AND THE LIGHTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR TURNED RED. IT SEEMED TO BE PARTIALLY LATCHED STILL SINCE IT WOULD NOT OPEN ALL THE WAY, BUT I HAD TO USE THE INSIDE DOOR HANDLE TO OPEN THE DOOR AND THEN CLOSE IT ALL THE WAY AGAIN. I HAD ALREADY TRAVELED ABOUT 1 MILE FROM MY HOME WHEN THE DOOR PARTIALLY OPENED, AND THERE WERE NO DASH OR WARNING SIGNS IT WAS OPEN WHEN I LEFT. TEMPERATURE OUTSIDE WAS CLEAR, NO RAIN OR WIND AND ABOUT 50-55 DEGREES OUTSIDE. CAR WAS PRIOR IN THE GARAGE BEFORE I LEFT ABOUT 1130 PM.

ABS PUMP FAILURE. ABS PUMP FAILS DURING AN ANTI-LOCK EVENT CAUSING PEDAL TO GO TO FLOOR AND NO STOPPING POWER. OCCUR SPORADICALLY WHEN ON ICE/SLUSH/SNOW OR WHEN BRAKING ON A ROUGH RODE.